DAFTAR ISI. ABSTRAK...ii. DAFTAR TABEL... viii. DAFTAR GAMBAR...ix. DAFTAR LAMPIRAN...xiii BAB I PENDAHULUAN... 1

DAFTAR ISI

PERNYATAAN.......................................................................................................i ABSTRAK....................................................................................... .......................ii KATA PENGANTAR.......................................................................................... iii DAFTAR ISI......................................................................................................... vi DAFTAR TABEL............................................................................................... viii DAFTAR GAMBAR............................................................................ .................ix DAFTAR LAMPIRAN.......................................................................................xiii BAB I PENDAHULUAN....................................................................................... 1 A. B. C. D. E.

Latar Belakang Masalah....................................................................................1 Rumusan Masalah .............................................................................................5 Tujuan Penelitian ..............................................................................................5 Manfaat Penelitian ............................................................................................5 Sistematika Penulisan .......................................................................................7

BAB II KONSEP TENUN.....................................................................................8 A. Pengetahuan Tentang Tenun .............................................................................8 1. Pengertian Tenun.......................................................................................... 9 2. Perkembangan Tenun.................................................................................... 8 3. Perkembangan Tenun di Jawa Barat.................................................. .........16 4. Fungsi Kain Tenun...................................................................................... 17 5. Penciptaan tenun................................................................................. ........19 B. Pengetahuan Tentang Ornamen....................................................................... 35 1. Pengertian Ornamen................................................................................... 35 2. Perkembangan Ornamen di Indonesia ....................................................... 36 3. Fungsi Ornamen.......................................................................................... 41 4. Jenis-jenis Ornamen.................................................................................... 41 C. Unsur-unsur Seni Rupa ...................................................................................55 1. Titik.......................................................................................................... ...55 2. Garis....................................................................................................... .....56 3. Bidang................................................................... ......................................57 4. Bentuk.......................................................................................... ...............58 5. Warna.......................................................................................................... 59 6. Tekstur.........................................................................................................64 Genisa Meira, 2013 Kain Tenun Ikat Dengan Bahan Sutera Alam (Analisis Deskriptif Ornamen Kain Tenun Ikat dengan Bahan Sutera Alam di Kampung Tenun Panawuan Kabupaten Garut) Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia | repository.upi.edu| perpustakaan.upi.edu

D. Prinsip Penyusunan Unsur Seni Rupa............................................................. 65 1. Kesatuan...................................................................................................... 65 2. Komposisi................................................................................................ ...65 3. Simetri......................................................................................................... 66 4. Irama........................................................................................................... 66 5. Keseimbangan............................................................................................. 67 6. Harmoni...................................................................................................... 68 BAB III METODE PENELITIAN..................................................................... 71 A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H.

Lokasi dan Subjek Penelitian.......................................................................... 71 Desain Penelitian............................................................................................ 71 Metode Penelitian........................................................................................... 71 Definisi Operasional....................................................................................... 72 Instrumen Penelitian....................................................................................... 74 Teknik Pengumpulan Data.................................................................. ............75 Teknik Pengolahan Data.............................................................................. ...77 Analisis Data................................................................................ ...................77

BAB IV HASIL PENELITIAN DAN PEMBAHASAN...................... ..............79 A. Deskripsi Hasil Penelitian.................................. .............................................79 1. Gambaran Lokasi Penelitian....................................................................... 79 2. Gambaran Hasil Penelitian......................................................................... 89 B. Pembahasan Hasil Penelitian........................................................................ 135 1. Pembahasan Hasil Penelitian Proses Pembuatan Kain Tenun Ikat dengan Bahan Sutera Alam di Kampung Tenun...................................... 135 2. Pembahasan Hasil Penelitian Ornamen pada Kain Tenun Ikat dengan Bahan Sutera Alam di Kampung Tenun.............................. ........140 BAB V KESIMPULAN DAN REKOMENDASI............................................ 177 A. Kesimpulan................................................................................................... 177 B. Rekomendasi.............................................................................................. ...179 DAFTAR PUSTAKA......................................................................................... 182 DAFTAR ISTILAH........................................................................................... 186 LAMPIRAN-LAMPIRAN................................................................................ 193

Genisa Meira, 2013 Kain Tenun Ikat Dengan Bahan Sutera Alam (Analisis Deskriptif Ornamen Kain Tenun Ikat dengan Bahan Sutera Alam di Kampung Tenun Panawuan Kabupaten Garut) Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia | repository.upi.edu| perpustakaan.upi.edu

DAFTAR TABEL Tabel 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 3.1 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4

Bahan untuk Membuat Tenun ................................................................... 27 Data Tanaman Alam dan Warna yang Dihasilkan..................................... 30 Perkembangan Ornamen di Indonesia........................................................ 37 Pengulangan Bentuk pada Ornamen.......................................................... 40 Kisi-Kisi Instrumen Penelitian................................................................... 74 Macam-Macam Alat untuk Membuat Tenun Ikat...................................... 90 Macam-Macam Bahan untuk Membuat Tenun Ikat...................................90 Analisis Unsur Seni Rupa pada Jenis Ornamen Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun........................................................ 174 Analisis Prinsip Seni Rupa pada Jenis Ornamen Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun........................................................ 176


DAFTAR GAMBAR Gambar 2.1 Tenunan Polos ...................................... .....................................................11 2.2 Tenunan Kepar...................................... .....................................................11 2.3 Tenunan Satin.......................................... ...................................................12 2.4 Kain Tenun Renggang........................... .....................................................13 2.5 Kain Tenun Ikat....................................... ...................................................13 2.6 Kain Tenun Ikat Pakan............................ ...................................................14 2.7 Kain Tenun Ikat Lungsi........................... .................................................14 2.8 Kain Tenun Ikat Lungsi dan Pakan........................................................... .15 2.9 Kain Tenun Songket.................................................................................. .15 2.10 Kain Tenun Bersengkelit.............................................................. ..............16 2.11 Busana Tenun Ikat Rote .................................................................. ..........18 2.12 Sarung Bantal dan Tikar dari Kain Tenun..................................................19 2.13 Hiasan Dinding dan Kursi dari Kain Tenun........................................... ....19 2.14 Alat Tenun bukan Mesin (ATBM).............................................. ...............20 2.15 Penenun dengan Alat Tenun Gendong sedang Menggunakan Liro........... 21 2.16 Alat tenun Gendong....................................................................................21 2.17 Alat Epor................................................. ...................................................21 2.18 Alat Liro................................................. ....................................................21 2.19 Penenun dengan Alat Tenun Tijak (ATBM)............................................. .22 2.20 Rangka ATBM.............................................. ............................................22 2.21 Teropong Pipih........................................................................................ ..24 2.22 Alat Hani.................................................................................................... 24 2.23 Raddle.......................................................... ...............................................24 2.24 Gunting..................................................................................................... .24 2.25 Pengait/Penyucuk...................................................................................... .25 2.26 Meteran......................................................... .............................................25 2.27 Mesin Tenun...................................................................................... .........26 2.28 Rangka Utama Pergerakan Mesin Tenun........................ ...........................26 2.29 Alat Hani................................................................. ................................ 32 2.30 Tali Gun dengan Benang Lungsi Tersususun Sejajar................................ 33 2.31 Suri/sisir dengan Benang Lungsi Kelihatan Dimasukkan di antara Jeruji....................................................................... 33 2.32 Sketsa Proses Menenun.............................. ................................................34 2.33 Motif Tumpal....................................................................................... ......43 2.34 Motif Pilin Ganda....................................................................................... 44 2.35 Motif Pilin pada Kian Tenun Ikat Kalimantan........................................... 44 2.36 Motif Parang Rusak pada Kain Batik................................ .........................45 2.37 Motif Meander............................................................... .............................45 2.38 Motif Meander pada Bejana....................................... ................................46 2.39 Motif Banji.......................................................................................... .......47 2.40 Pola Kertas Tempel pada Dinding Candi Sewu, Surakarta dan Pola Kertas pada Dinding Candi Prambanan.... ..................47 2.41 Motif Kawung pada Batik.......................................................................... 48 2.42 Motif Jlamrangan....................................................................................... 48 Genisa Meira, 2013 Kain Tenun Ikat Dengan Bahan Sutera Alam (Analisis Deskriptif Ornamen Kain Tenun Ikat dengan Bahan Sutera Alam di Kampung Tenun Panawuan Kabupaten Garut) Universitas Pendidikan Indonesia | repository.upi.edu| perpustakaan.upi.edu

2.43 2.44 2.45 2.46 2.47 2.48 2.49 2.50 2.51 2.52 2.53 2.54 2.55 2.56 2.57 2.58 2.59 2.60 2.61 2.62 2.63 2.64 2.65 2.66 2.67 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 4.9 4.10 4.11 4.12 4.13 4.14 4.15 4.16 4.17 4.18

Motif Lereng Besar.................................................................................... 49 Batu Gajah................................................................................................. 50 Wayang Kulit Purwa........................................................................... .......51 Motif Hias Topeng pada Nekara Bulan Panjang........................................ 52 Motif Aneka Satwa pada Tenun Sumba..................................................... 53 Ukiran Kayu dari Pekalongan dan Madura................................................ 55 Titik............................................................................................................ 55 Garis...................................................................................................... .....56 Bidang................................................................ ........................................57 Bentuk........................................................................................................ 58 Bentuk Geometris....................................................................................... 58 Bentuk Organis........................................................................................... 59 Lingkaran Warna............................................................................. ...........59 Penerapan warna Analogus........................................................................ 62 Penerapan Warna Monokromatis................................................... ............62 Penerapan Warna Komplementer............................................................... 63 Warna Tint dan Shade................................................................. ...............64 Tekstur dengan Teknik Marbling................................................ ...............64 Penerapan Prinsip Kesatuan....................................................................... 65 Irama....................................................................... ................................... 66 Penerapan Irama Zig-zag dan Berombak....................... ............................67 Keseimbangan................................ ............................................................67 Penerapan Keseimbangan Tegak Lurus, Vertikal dan Radial............................................................................................ ...... 68 Harmoni....................................................................... ...............................69 Penerapan Harmoni Karya Peserta Diklat Dasar Seni Rupa/Kriya............................................................... ..........................69 Peta Administrasi Kabupaten Garut.......................................................... .80 Peta Wilayah Kecamatan Tarogong Kidul............................................... . 81 Peta Administrasi Kampung Tenun.......................................................... 82 Pabrik Kampung Tenun Panawuan Garut................................................ . 83 Pabrik Kampung Tenun Tampak Depan ................................................. . 83 Art Galeri Kampung Tenun...................................................................... . 83 Pabrik Sebelum dan Sesudah Menerima Bantuan dan Binaan dari CTI dan PGN................................................................... 85 ATBM........................................................................................................ 90 Proses Pemasakan Benang..........................................................................95 Proses Pembuatan Kain Tenun Ikat dengan ATBM.................................. 96 Alat Skeer.................................................................................................. .97 Contoh Desain Pola............................................................................. .......98 Proses Pengahanian Benang................................................... .................. 98 Proses Pengikatan Benang............................................................... ..........99 Proses Pencelupan Benang.............................................................. ...........99 Proses Penjemuran.............................................................................. .....100 Pencoletan................................................................................................ 100 Perapihan Benang...................................... ..............................................101


4.19 4.20 4.21 4.22 4.23 4.24 4.25 4.26 4.27 4.28 4.29 4.30 4.31 4.32 4.33 4.34 4.35 4.36 4.37 4.38 4.39 4.40 4.41 4.42 4.43 4.44 4.45 4.46 4.47 4.48 4.49 4.50 4.51 4.52 4.53 4.54 4.55 4.56 4.57

Penjemuran Terakhir.................................. ..............................................101 Pemencaran............................................................................................. 102 Pemaletan............................................................. ....................................102 Benang Lungsi yang Dililit pada Tali Gun...............................................103 Benang Lungsi yang Ditusukan pada Sisir...............................................103 Benang Pakan Hasil Pemaletan yang Digulung pada Teropong ................................................................................................. 104 Menginjak Pedal ...................................................................................... 104 Teropong yang akan Digeser ke dalam Laci ........................................... 105 Menarik Sisir........................................................................................... 105 Hasil Kain Tenun Ikat............................................................................. 106 Jenis Motif Hias pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun....................107 Kerangka Analisis Ornamen.................................................................... 108 Motif Hias Wajik..................................................................................... 109 Motif Etnik Modifikasi dari Tenun NTT................................................. 111 Kain Tenun Ikat garut dan Tenun Songket NTT......................................112 Motif Etnik Modifikasi dari Tenun Bali.................................................. 113 Kain Tenun Ikat Garut dan Kain Tenun Bali .......................................... 114 Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun Kalimantan ................................... 115 Kain Tenun Ikat Garut dan Kain Tenun Ikat Kalimantan..... ..................116 Motif Bunga Puspa.................................................................................. 117 Motif Bunga Tapak Dara.......................................................................... 119 Motif Bunga Gambir................................................................... .............121 Motif Bunga Kusuma............................................................................... 123 Motif Burung Bangau..................................................................... .........125 Motif Sumping......................................................................................... 127 Motif Etnik Garut................................................................................ .....129 Motif Ukel............................................................................................... .131 Kain Tenun Ikat Graut dan Ornamen Dayak Kalimantan......... ..............132 Tiang-Tiang ATBM................................................................................. 136 Benang Diskeer pada Bum..................................................... .................138 Ornamen Geometris............................................................................ .....141 Ornamen Non Geometris............................................................... ..........142 Ornamen Geometris pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun........... ...144 Ornamen Wajik pada Kain Batik Garut RM............................................ 145 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Wajik pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun................................................................................... 147 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun NTT pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun...................................... 147 Keseimbangan Tegak Lurus Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun Bali pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun....................................... 148 Keseimbangan Tegak Lurus Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Kalimantan pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun........................... 148 Pengulangan Motif Wajik pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................................. ......150


4.58 4.59 4.60 4.61 4.62

4.63 4.64 4.65 4.66 4.67 4.68 4.69 4.70 4.71 4.72 4.73 4.74 4.75 4.76 4.77 4.78 4.79

Pengulangan Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun NTT pada Kain Tenun Ikat di KampungTenun....................................... 151 Pengulangan Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun Bali pada Kain Tenun Ikat di KampungTenun........................................ 152 Pengulangan Motif Etnik Modifikasi Kain Tenun Kalimantan pada Kain Tenun Ikat di KampungTenun............................ 153 Ornamen Non Geometris Motif Bunga puspa, Bunga tapak Dara, Bunga gambir, pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................... . 155 Ornamen Non Geometris Motif Bunga Kusuma, Burung Bangau, Sumping, Etnik Garut, dan ukel pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun...................................................................................................... 156 Motif Domba Garut pada Batik Cap Garutan......................................... 157 Keseimbangan Tegak Lurus Motif Bunga Puspa pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.......................................................................... 159 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Bunga Tapak Dara pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 160 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Bunga Gambir pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 160 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Bunga Kusuma pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 161 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Burung Bangau pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 161 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Sumping pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 162 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Etnik Garut pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 162 Keseimbangan Kombinasi Motif Ukel pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun............................................................... 163 Pengulangan Motif Bunga Puspa pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 164 Pengulangan Motif Bunga Tapak Dara pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 165 Pengulangan Motif Bunga Gambir pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 166 Pengulangan Motif Bunga Kusuma pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 167 Pengulangan Motif Burung Bangau pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 168 Pengulangan Motif Sumping pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 169 Pengulangan Motif Etnik Garut pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 170 Pengulangan Motif Ukel pada Kain Tenun Ikat di Kampung Tenun.................................................................................. 171


DAFTAR LAMPIRAN Lampiran Lampiran 1 Lampiran 2 Lampiran 3 Lampiran 4 Lampiran 5 Lampiran 6 Lampiran 7 Lampiran 8 Lampiran 9 Lampiran 10

Surat Pernyataan Kampung Tenun Panawuan Garut............... ..193 Instrumen Pedoman Wawancara.......................................... ......194 Lembar Observasi...................................................................... 196 Koran Harian Bisnis Indonesia.................................................. 197 Majalah Amica Januari 2012 (hal.24) ....................................... 198 Majalah Amica Januari 2012 (hal 25)........................................ 199 Majalah Bazaar Februari 2012................................................... 200 Majalah Bazaar Juli 2012........................................................... 201 Majalah Inflight Garuda Juni 2012............................................ 202 Majalah Inflight Garuda Juli 2012............................................. 203


DAFTAR ISI. ABSTRAK...ii. DAFTAR TABEL... viii. DAFTAR GAMBAR...ix. DAFTAR LAMPIRAN...xiii BAB I PENDAHULUAN... 1

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