316
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd See also separate subindexes for:
5 EATING P320 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P321 3 ENTERTAINMENT P322 7 SHOPPING P323 4 SLEEPING P323 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P324
Index A
accommodation 15, 185-96 Bubeneč 194-5 Dejvice 194-5 Holešovice 193-5 Hradčany 188 language 308 Malá Strana 188-9 Nové Město 190-1 Smíchov & Vyšehrad 195-6 Staré Město 189-90 Vinohrady 191-3 websites 15 Žižkov & Karlín 193-6 air travel 296 ambulance 302 Applied Arts Museum (Brno) 240 Archbishop’s Chateau (Kroměříž) 264 Archbishop’s Palace (Olomouc) 259 Archdiocesan Museum (Olomouc) 259-61 architecture 10, 46-55, 124 area codes 305 Army Museum 146 Art Gallery for Children 24 art nouveau architecture 50 Artbanka: Museum of Young Art 104 arts 18, 283-8, see also film, literature, music, sculpture, theatre Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Valtice) 254 Astronomical Clock 98, 3, 57 Astronomical Tower 104 At the Golden Snake 105 ATMs 304 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Augustine Monastery (Třeboň) 211
B
Ball-Game House 63 Barborská (Kutná Hora) 180 Basilica of St George 66, 47 Basilica of St Lawrence 167 baroque architecture 48 Bat’a shoe store 52, 118, 52 bathrooms 306 beer 10, 18-19, 36-7, 292-4 festivals 21 fourth pipe 13 Bethlehem Chapel 107 bicycle travel, see cycling Bílek Villa 74 Black Tower (České Budějovice) 199 Blansko 244 boat tours 29-30, 29 Bohemia 197-235, 197, 198 České Budějovice 198-204 Český Krumlov 204-9 Karlovy Vary 222-9 Mariánské Lázně 229-35 Plzeň 217-22 Tábor 213-17 Třeboň 209-13 bone church, see Sedlec Ossuary (Kutná Hora) books 18, 268, 271, 289-90 Brewery Museum (Plzeň) 218 Brick Gate & Casements 168 Brno 237-45, 238 Brno Underground (Brno) 240 Brownnosers (David Černý sculpture) 169 Bubeneč 59, 149-63, 149, 350-1 accommodation 194-5 drinking & nightlife 150, 159-60 food 150, 156
highlights 149 sights 153 sports & activities 163 transport 150 Budweiser Budvar Brewery (České Budějovice) 199 bus travel 297-8 business hours 301
C
Capuchin Monastery (Brno) 240 car travel 298-9, 300, 302 Cathedral of St Barbara (Kutná Hora) 180 Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul (Brno) 239 caves 244 cell phones 305-6 Ceremonial Hall 95 Černý, David 106, 169 sculptures 84, 86, 146, 169, 288, 18, 52 České Budějovice 198-204, 200 Český Krumlov 204-9, 206 Český Krumlov Castle (Český Krumlov) 205, 54 Chapel of Mirrors 104-5 Chapel of St Jan Sarkander (Olomouc) 259 Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary 105 Charles Bridge 6, 79-81, 6, 79 Charles Bridge Museum 107 Charles Square 124 Charles University Botanical Garden 125 children, travel with 23-4 Children’s Island 86 Chodovar Brewery (Planá) 232 Christmas 22 Church of Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary) 223 Church of Our Lady Before Týn 101, 5
Church of Our Lady of the Snows 123 Church of St Clement 105 Church of St Francis Seraphinus 105 Church of St James 102 Church of St James (Brno) 241 Church of St James the Elderly (Telč) 246 Church of St Nicholas 100-1 Church of St Nicholas (Znojmo) 256 Church of Sts Peter & Paul 168 Church of Sts Peter & Paul (Karlovy Vary) 223 Church of Sts Peter & Paul (Mělník) 182 Church of the Ascension of the Cross (Františkovy Lázně) 234 Church of the Holy Saviour 104 Church of the Holy Spirit (Telč) 247 Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord 134 Church of the Transfiguration of Our Lord on Mt Tábor (Tábor) 214 City Zoological Garden (Brno) 242 classical music 19, 40, 283, see also Czech Philharmonic Orchestra climate 15, 20-2 climate change 296 clubs 38 Colonnade (Mariánské Lázně) 229 communism 277 communist architecture 52 consulates 302 Convent of St Agnes 103 Convent of St George 66-7 costs 14, 32, 186, 301, 305 credit cards 304 Cubist architecture 50
317
D
Daliborka 67 Dancing Building 52, 123, 53 Dejvice 59, 149-63, 149, 350-1 accommodation 194-5 drinking & nightlife 150, 161 entertainment 162 food 150, 156-8 highlights 149 shopping 162 sights 154 transport 150 Dejvice Farmers Market 157 Diana Lookout Tower (Karlovy Vary) 228 Dietrichstein Burial Vault (Mikulov) 252 DinoPark (Plzeň) 220 Diocese Museum (Plzeň) 219-20 disabilities, travellers with 306-7 Divoká Šárka 161 Dox Centre for Contemporary Art 152 drinking & nightlife 36-9, see also individual neighbourhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex language 311 opening hours 37 drinks 36-8, see also beer, wine driving, see car travel Dvořák Hall 102, 113 Dvořák Museum 125
E
Easter 25 economy 269 Ecotechnical Museum 153 Egon Schiele Art Centrum (Český Krumlov) 205
electricity 301 embassies 302 emergencies 302 language 311 Emperor Charles IV 272 entertainment 40-2, see also individual neighbourhoods, Entertainment subindex Estates Theatre 103-4, 113, 273 etiquette 33-4, 37 events 20, 21, 22
F
farmers markets 13, 141, 157 festivals 20, 21, 22 classical music 283 Majáles 26 Prague Spring 42 film 40, 268, 290-1 festivals 20, 21 fire 302 flood 153 Flower Garden (Kroměříž) 265 food 31-5, 31, see also individual neighbourhoods, Eating subindex costs 32 festivals 21 language 309-11 opening hours 32 football 26, 141 František Palacký Memorial 124 Františkovy Lázně 234 Franz Kafka Monument 102 Franz Kafka Museum 84 free attractions 27 Fryderyk Chopin Memorial Museum (Mariánské Lázně) 231 Functionalist architecture 52, 258 Futura Gallery 169
G
Galerie Rudolfinum 102 Gallery of Central Bohemia (Kutná Hora) 180 Garden on the Ramparts 67 gardens 19 gay travellers 140, 302 Ghetto Museum (Terezín) 183 Goat Hill (Mikulov) 251 Goethe Institute 124
Goethovo náměstí (Mariánské Lázně) 231 Golden Lane 67 Gothic architecture 46 Gothic Cellar 167 Grand Hotel Evropa 50, 51 Granovsky Palace 101 Great Synagogue (Plzeň) 219
H
Habsburgs 273-4 Havel, Václav 279 Heydrich assassination 125 hiking 161, 209, 226, 228, 233 Historical Museum (Tábor) 215 history 19, 270-9 Hluboká Chateau (Hluboká Nad Vltavou) 203 Hluboká Nad Vltavou 203 Holešovice 59, 149-63, 149, 350-1 accommodation 193-5 drinking & nightlife 150, 158-9 entertainment 161-2 food 150, 154, 156 highlights 149, 151 shopping 162-3 sights 151, 152-3 sports & activities 163 transport 150 holidays 305 Holy Hill (Mikulov) 251-2 Holy Name of Jesus Church (Telč) 246 Holy Roman Empire 272 Holy Trinity Column (Olomouc) 258 hospitals 304 Hot Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) 222 Hotel Crowne Plaza 154 House at the Black Bear 101 House at the Minute 48, 48 House at the Stone Bell 100 House of Arts (Brno) 240 House of the Black Madonna 105 House of the Hlahol Choir 124 Hrad Loket (Loket) 226 Hradčany 59, 60-76, 60, 75, 330-1 accommodation 188 drinking & nightlife 61
drinking 76 food 61, 74, 76 highlights 60, 62-73 shopping 76 sights 62-74, 74 transport 61 walks 75 Hus, Jan 100, 216, 272-3 Hussite Museum (Tábor) 213-14 Hussites 215, 216, 272-3
I
ice hockey 26, 163, 282 immigration 280-1 internet access 302-3 Italian Court (Kutná Hora) 180 itineraries 16-17
J
Jan Becher Museum (Karlovy Vary) 223 Jan Hus statue 100 Jan Palach Square 102 Jewish Cemetery (Mikulov) 251 Jewish Cemetery (Třebíč) 249 Jewish Quarter (Mikulov) 251 Jewish Quarter (Třebíč) 248-9 Jewish-interest tours 30 Jews of Prague 275, see also Josefov, Prague Jewish Museum Jindřišská Tower 120 Jirásek Square 124 John Lennon Wall 83 Josefov 101-2 Jubilee Synagogue 120
K
Kafka, Franz 84, 102, 146, 290 Kampa 84 Kampa Museum 85 Karlín, see Žižkov & Karlín Karlín Studios 146 Karlovy Vary 222-9, 224-5 Karlovy Vary Museum (Karlovy Vary) 223 Karlštejn 175-6 Karlštejn Castle (Karlštejn) 55, 175-6, 55, 175 Kateřinská Cave 244 KGB Museum 84 Kinský Palace 100, 49
INDE X C - K
Cubist lamp post 51, 126, 51 culture 280-2 currency 304 customs regulations 301 cycling 28, 30, 300 Czech Beer Festival 21 Czech Museum of Music 85 Czech Philharmonic Orchestra 102, 113, 8 Czech Silver Museum (Kutná Hora) 178, 180
31 8
INDE X K- P
Klaus Synagogue 95, 12 Klementinum 104-5 Konopištĕ Chateau (Konopištĕ) 177 Kotnov Tower (Tábor) 214-15 Koruna Palace 118 Křižík’s Fountain 152 Kroměříž 264-6 Kroměříž Museum (Kroměříž) 265 Kutná Hora 178-81, 179
L
language 14, 308-13 Lapidárium 152 Lednice, see ValticeLednice Lednice Chateau (Lednice) 254 legal matters 303 Lego Museum 24 lesbian travellers 140, 302 Lesser Fortress (Terezín) 183-4 Letná Gardens 153, 155, 25 Lindt building 118 literature 18, 268, 271, 289-90 Lobkowicz Palace 68 local life 25-6 Loket nad Ohřě 226 Lord Mayor’s Hall 96 Loreta 73, 73 Lucerna Palace 121
M
Main Fortress (Terezín) 182-3 Main Square (Mikulov) 252 Maisel Synagogue 95 Malá Strana 59, 77-90, 77, 88, 328-9 accommodation 188-9 drinking & nightlife 78 food 78, 87-9 highlights 77, 79-81, 82, 83, 85 shopping 90 sights 79-81, 82, 82-7, 83, 85 transport 78 walks 88
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Malostranské náměstí 83 Maltese Square 84 Mánes Gallery 123-4 Mariánské Lázně 229-35, 230, 54 Marionette Museum 105-7 Marionette Museum (Český Krumlov) 205 May Day 25 measures 303 medical services 303-4 Meet Factory 169 Melantric Building 118 Mělník 181-2 Mělník Chateau (Mělník) 181-2 Memorial to the Victims of Communism 87 Mendel Museum (Brno) 241-2 metro 299 microbreweries 293-4 Mikulov 249-53, 251 Mikulov Chateau (Mikulov) 250-1 Mikulov Wine Trail (Mikulov) 252 Miminka (David Černý sculpture) 146 Miniature Museum 72 Mirror Maze 87, 23 mobile phones 305-6 money 14, 32, 186, 301, 304, 305 monuments, missing 106 Moravia 236-66, 236, 237 Brno 237-45 Kroměříž 264-6 Mikulov 249-53 Olomouc 257-64 Telč 245-8 Třebíč 248-9 Valtice-Lednice 253-5 Znojmo 255-7 Moravian Gallery (Brno) 240 Moravian Karst 244 Moravian Museum (Brno) 240 Mořský Svět 152 Moser Glass Museum (Karlovy Vary) 225 motorcycle travel 2989, 300 Mucha, Alfons 122, 287 Mucha Museum 122 Municipal House 96, 51 Municipal Museum (Mariánské Lázně) 231 Musaion 87
Museum Fotoateliér Seidel (Český Krumlov) 205 Museum Montanelli 82 Museum of Art from the Gothic to the 19th Century (Brno) 240 Museum of Communism 121 Museum of Czech Cubism 103 Museum of Decorative Arts 99, 99 Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art (Brno) 240 Museum of Romany Culture (Brno) 242 Museum of South Bohemia (České Budějovice) 199, 201 Museum of the Infant Jesus 85 Museum Zdeňka Buriana (Štramberk) 262 music 9, 40, 283-284 classical 19, 40, 283 festivals 21, 42 jazz 283-4 rock 284, 285
N
Na Příkopě 121 Náměstí Přemysla Otakara II (České Budějovice) 199 Náměstí Zachariáše z Hradce (Telč) 246 Náprstek Museum 107 Národní třída 121-2 National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror 123 National Monument 144-5 National Museum 119 National Salon of Czech Republic Wines (Valtice) 254 National Technical Museum 152 National Theatre 122 neoclassical architecture 50 Nerudova 82 New Jewish Cemetery 146 New Town Hall 125 newspapers 303 news websites 282 nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Nové Město 59, 116-31, 116, 126, 336-7, 338-9
accommodation 190-1 drinking & nightlife 117, 128-9 entertainment 129-30 food 117, 125-8 highlights 116, 118-19, 120, 122, 123 shopping 130-1 sights 118-19, 120, 122, 123 transport 117 walks 126 Novotného lávka 105 Nový Svět Quarter 74
O
Old Jewish Cemetery 94-5 Old Royal Palace 65-6 Old Town Hall 97, 97 Old Town Hall (Brno) 23940, 241 Old Town Hall (Plzeň) 219 Old Town Square 9, 9, 100 Old-New Synagogue 93-4 Olomouc 257-64, 260 Olomouc Museum of Art (Olomouc) 259 Olšany Cemetery 146 opening hours 301
P
painting 285-6 Palace Gardens Beneath Prague Castle 83 Palach, Jan 102, 146, 276 Pařížská 101-2 parks 19 Patton Memorial Pilsen (Plzeň) 219 Petřín 86-7 Petřín Funicular Railway 86 Petřín Lookout Tower 86 pharmacies 304 photography 286 Pilsner Urquell Brewery (Plzeň) 217-18 Pinkas Synagogue 94 Planá 232 Planetarium (Brno) 242 planetariums 153 planning, see also individual regions accommodation 185-96 budgeting 14, 27, 32, 301 children 23 cycling 28 festivals & events 20-2
319
Q
Quo Vadis (David Černý Sculpture) 86
R
radio 303 Rašínovo nábřeží 78 124 Rear (New) Synagogue (Třebíč) 249 Regent Brewery (Třeboň) 211 Regional History Museum (Olomouc) 259 Regional Museum (Český Krumlov) 205 religion 281-2 Renaissance architecture 48 Riegrovy sady 134
Roma 280 Romanesque architecture 46 Rosenberg Palace 68 Rotunda of Our Lady & St Catherine (Znojmo) 256 Rotunda of St Martin 167 Royal Garden 63 Royal Way 105 Rudolfinum 102 Rybník Svět (Třeboň) 211
S
Schwarzenberg Mausoleum (Třeboň) 211 Schwarzenberg Palace 74, 48 sculpture 286-7, 288 see also Černý, David Sedlec Ossuary (Kutná Hora) 178, 55 Segway tours 30 shopping 43-5, see also individual neighbourhoods, Shopping subindex language 311 opening hours 44 Singing Fountain (Mariánské Lázně) 230-1 skateboarding 23 skating 23 Slav Island 124 Smetana Hall 96, 113, 10 Smetana Museum 107 Smíchov 59, 164-73, 164, 342 accommodation 195-6 drinking & nightlife 165, 171-2 entertainment 172 food 165, 169-70 highlights 164 shopping 173 sights 169 transport 165 smoking 32, 303 South Bohemian Aleš Gallery (Hluboká Nad Vltavou) 203 South Bohemian Motorcycle Museum (České Budějovice) 201 Spanish Synagogue 95, 50 spas 222, 223, 229-31, 234 Špilberk Castle (Brno) 239 sport 26, 141, 163, 282 St Bartholomew Church (Plzeň) 219
St Michael Church (Olomouc) 259 St Moritz Cathedral (Olomouc) 259 St Nicholas Church 82 St Procopius’ Basilica (Třebíč) 249 St Vitus Cathedral 9, 69-70, 3, 8, 47, 69 St Vitus Treasury 63 St Vladimír Church (Mariánské Lázně) 231 St Wenceslas Cathedral (Olomouc) 261 Staré Město 59, 91-115, 91, 108, 332-3 accommodation 189-90 drinking & nightlife 92 food 92 highlights 91, 93-9, 101, 102, 103, 104 sights 93-9, 101, 102, 103, 104 transport 92 walks 108 Šternberg Palace 74 Story of Prague Castle 66 Strahov Library 71-2 Strahov Monastery 71-2, 71 Strahov Picture Gallery 72 Štramberk 262 Štramberk Municipal Brewery (Štramberk) 262 Štramberk Museum (Štramberk) 262 Strings of Autumn 22 Stromovka 153, 155 Summer Palace 63, 49
T Tábor 213-17, 214 taxes 305 taxis 300 Technical Museum (Brno) 242 Telč 245-8, 246 Telč Chateau (Telč) 246 telephone services 305-6 tennis 282 Terezín 182-4 theatre 40-1, 287-8 time 306 tipping 303 toilets 306 tourist information 306 tours 27, 29-30 Town Hall (Olomouc) 259 Town Hall Tower (Znojmo) 256
Toy Museum 68 train travel 296-7, 299 trams 299 transport 296-300 language 312 travel to Prague 296-9 travel within Prague 297, 299-300 travellers cheques 305 Třebíč 248-9 Třeboň 209-13, 210 Třeboň Chateau (Třeboň) 211 Troja Chateau 154 TV 303 TV Tower 146, 52 Týn Courtyard 101
U
U Kalicha 125 Underground Passages (Tábor) 214 Underground Plzeň (Plzeň) 218-19
V
vacations 305 Valtice Chateau (Valtice) 254 Valtice-Lednice 253-5 Veletržní Palác 12, 151, 12, 151 Velvet Divorce 278 Velvet Revolution 278 Vila Tugendhat (Brno) 241 vineyards 138, see also wine Vinohrady & Vršovice 59, 132-41, 132, 135, 344-5 accommodation 191-3 drinking & nightlife 133, 137-9 entertainment 140 food 133, 134-7 highlights 132 shopping 140-1 sights 134 transport 133 vineyards 138 walks 135 visas 307 visual arts 285-7 VJ Rott Building 105 Vršovice, see Vinohrady & Vršovice Vrtbov Garden 86
INDE X P-V
itineraries 16-17 local life 25-6 Prague basics 14-15 Prague’s neighbourhoods 58-9 repeat visitors 13 tours 29-30 travel seasons 15, 20-2 websites 14, 15, 185 playgrounds 23 Plzeň 217-22, 218 police 302 politics 268-9 ponds, carp 211 population 280 postal services 305 Powder Gate 103 Powder Tower 67 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 63, 65 Prague Castle 6, 62-8, 64, 7, 47, 49, 62, 65 Prague City Museum 120 Prague Fringe Festival 21 Prague Jewish Museum 12, 93-5, 12, 50, 93 Prague Main Train Station 120 Prague Meridian 100 Prague Planetarium 153 Prague Spring 21, 42 Prague Zoo 152 Proudy (David Černý Sculpture) 84, 18 public holidays 305 public transport 299-300 Punkva cave 244 Puppet Museum (Plzeň) 219
320
INDE X V- E AT I N G
Vyšehrad 59, 164-73, 164, 341 accommodation 196 drinking & nightlife 165, 172 food 165, 170-1 highlights 164, 166-8 sights 166-8 transport 165 Vyšehrad cemetery 166, 166 Vyšehrad citadel 167-8
W
walking tours 29 walks 29 Hradčany 75 Karlovy Vary 228 Letná Gardens & Stromovka Park 155 Malá Strana gardens 88 Mariánské Lázně 233 Nové Město 126 Staré Město 108 Třeboňsko 212 Vinohrady 135 Wallenstein Garden 83 Wallenstein Palace 84 weather 15, 20-2 websites 14, 15, 185, 282 weights 303 Wenceslas 271-2 Wenceslas Square 10, 118, 10 West Bohemian Museum (Plzeň) 220 Wiehl House 118 wine 37-8, 138, 250 women travellers 307 WWII 276-7
Z Žižka, Jan 144-5, 215, 144 Žižkov & Karlín 59, 142-8, 142, 346-7 accommodation 193 drinking & nightlife 143, 147-8 entertainment 148 food 143, 146-7 highlights 142, 144-5 sights 144-6 transport 143 Žižkovo Náměstí (Tábor) 213
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Zlín 258 Zlín Shoe Museum (Zlín) 258 Znojmo 255-7 Znojmo Castle (Znojmo) 256 Znojmo Underground (Znojmo) 256 zoos 152, 220 Zoo Plzeň (Plzeň) 220
5 EATING A Aberdeen Angus Steakhouse (Plzeň) 220 Ambiente Pasta Fresca 110 Ambiente Pizza Nuova 109 Argument 156 Aromi 134 Artisan 169
B Babička Restaurace 170 Bakeshop Praha 110 Bangkok 89 Beas Vegetarian Dhaba 110 Bernard (Karlovy Vary) 227 Bílý Koníček (Třeboň) 212 Bohemia Bagel 154 Budvarká 158 Buffalo (Mělník) 182
C Cafe Calma 157 Café de Paris 89 Café Elefant (Karlovy Vary) 227 Café FX 137 Café Hostel (České Budějovice) 202 Café Lounge 87 Café Pavlač 146 Café Pizzerie (Tábor) 215 Café Savoy 89 Café Schiele (Český Krumlov) 207 Černohorský Sklep (Brno) 243 Černý Orel (Kroměříž) 265 Cikánská Jizba (Český Krumlov) 207 Čínská Zahrada 156 Coqpit (Třebíč) 249 Country Life 110 Cukrkávalimonáda 87
D Da Emanuel 156 Dejvice Farmers Market 157 Deli 99 (Český Krumlov) 207 Drápal (Olomouc) 261 Dvořák (Tábor) 215
E El Cid (Plzeň) 220 Embassy Restaurant (Karlovy Vary) 226
F Fish & Steak (Třeboň) 212 Fresh Salad & Pizza (České Budějovice) 201
G Galerie A Čajovná Ve Věží (Mělník) 182 Globe Bookstore & Café 128 Goldie (Tábor) 215 Grand Moravia (Lednice) 255 Green Bar (Kroměříž) 265 Green Bar (Olomouc) 262 Greenhouse (České Budějovice) 201 Groll Pivovar (Plzeň) 220
H Ha Noi 137 Hamtam 136 Hanácacká Hospoda (Olomouc) 262 Hanavský Pavilón 156 Hanil 147 Hergetova Cihelna 89 Hospoda Na Louži (Český Krumlov) 206 Hospoda U Švejka (Karlovy Vary) 226 Hospůdka Pod Zámkem (Mikulov) 252
I Indian Jewel 109 Indická (České Budějovice) 201
K Kabul 110 Kafe & Bar Havana (Tábor) 215 Kafé Brejk (Karlovy Vary) 227
Kafé Oáza 257 Karavanseráj 127 Kavala 157-8 Kavárna Mokate (Kutná Hora) 181 Kavárna Vrátka (Třebíč) 249 Kofein 134 Kogo 127 Koishi (Brno) 242 Kolkovna 109-10 Korbel 154 Krčma v Šatlavské (Český Krumlov) 206 Kulat’ák 157 Kuře V Hodinkách 147 Kus Kus (Karlovy Vary) 227
L La Cabana (České Budějovice) 201 La Crêperie 154 Lahůdky V & V (Mikulov) 252 Laibon (Český Krumlov) 206 Las Adelitas 134 Le Patio 127 Lehká Hlava 110 Lichfield 87 Lobkowicz Palace Café 74, 76 Lokál 109 Loving Hut 136 Lucky Luciano 154
M Mailsi 147 Maitrea 109 Malý Buddha 76 Manni 147 Masala 136 Masné Kramý (České Budějovice) 201 Massimo 137 Maui Lounge (Mariánské Lázně) 232 Medité (Mariánské Lázně) 232 Memorial Café & Restaurant (Terezín) 184 Minach (Brno) 243 Mirellie 137, 157 Mistral Café 109 Modrý Zub 127 Moritz (Olomouc) 261 Mozaika 134
321
N
O Oliva 128 Osteria Da Clara 134
P Pastička 137 Peperoncino 156 Perpetuum 157 Pho Vietnam 137 Piccolo (Mariánské Lázně) 232 Pind 136 Pivnice Dačický (Kutná Hora) 181 Pizzeria Corleone 170 Pizzeria Grosseto 136, 157 Pizzeria Kmotra 127-8 Pizzerie (Telč) 247 Pizzerie Ionia (Hluboká Nad Vltavou) 203 Promenáda (Karlovy Vary) 226
R Radniční Sklípek (Kroměříž) 265 Rebio (Brno) 242 Restaurace Akropolis 147 Restaurace Alfa (Mikulov) 252 Restaurace Chudoba 137 Restaurace Pod Dračí Skálou (Karlštejn) 176 Restaurace Templ (Mikulov) 252 Restaurace U Veverky 157 Restaurant & Čajovna Avalon (Valtice) 255 Restaurant Černý Dům (Třebíč) 249 Restaurant Goethe (Františkovy Lázně) 234 Restaurant U Janů (Karlštejn) 176 Rio’s Vyšehrad 170
Z
H
Zelená Zahrada 136 Zlatý klas 170
Hells Bells 160, 172 Hemingway Bar 110 Hlubina 171 Hospůdka Obyčejný Svět 138 Hostinec U Kocoura 90
S Sabaidy (Brno) 242 Sakura 158 Sansho 127 Sasazu 154 Siam Orchid 127 Sklípek (Karlovy Vary) 227 Slunečnice (Plzeň) 220 Špaliček (Brno) 242 Spolek (Brno) 242 Stará Myslivna (Konopištĕ) 177 Staročeská Krčma 158 Summa Arx 170 Suterén 127 Svatováclavský Pivovar (Olomouc) 261 Švejk (Telč) 247
T Tandoor (Karlovy Vary) 226 Tavern 136
U U Anděla (Olomouc) 262 U Bilé Krávy 136 U Bílého lva 170 U Dědka 136 U Dwau Maryí (Český Krumlov) 206 U Malé Velryby 87 U Mansfelda (Plzeň) 220 U Marušky (Telč) 247 U Míkuláše Dačíckého 170 U Modré Kachničky 89 U Neklana 170 U Sňeka Pohodáře (Kutná Hora) 181 U Tři Sedláku (České Budějovice) 201 U Viléma 156 U Zlaté Hrušky 76 U Zlaté Koule (Mariánské Lázně) 232
& 7 DRINKING NIGHTLIFE
A Akádemie 160 Al Cafetero 139 Alchymista 160 Andaluský Pes 160 Avia (Brno) 243
B Back Doors 171 Bar & Books Mánesova 139 Bio Oko 159 Blatouch 138 Blue Light 90 Bokovka 128 Bondy Bar 159 Bukowski’s 147 Bunkr Parukářka 148
C Cafe 87 (Olomouc) 262-3 Café Celebrity 139 Cafe Citadela 172 Café Imperial 128-9 Café Kaaba 138 Čili Bar 111 Club Club 158
D Dobrá Trafika 139 Dobrý Ročník (Mikulov) 252 Dog’s Bollocks 172 Duende 111
E Erhartova Cukrárna 158
F V V zátiší 109 Vegetariánská Restaurace (Kroměříž) 265 Veselá 13 (Znojmo) 256 Vila Primavesi (Olomouc) 262 Villa Richter 76 Vino di Vino 109
Fraktal 159 Friends 112 Friends Coffee House 129 Futurum 171
I Irish Pub (Mariánské Lázně) 232
J Jáma 128 James Joyce 111
K Kabinet 161 Kafíčko 90 Káva Káva Káva (Smíchov) 171 Káva Káva Káva (Staré Město) 111 Kavárna Alibi 161 Kavarná Antoniana (Telč) 247 Kavárna Evropa 129 Kavárna Jarda Mayer 172 Kavárna Lucerna 129 Kavárna Obecní dům 112 Kavárna Vladimíra Menšíka (Brno) 243 Kavárna Zanzibar 139 Kávovarna 128 Klášterní Pivnice 160 Klášterní pivovar Strahov 76 Klub Újezd 89 Konvikt (Olomouc) 263 Kozička 111 Krásný ztráty 111 Kratochvíle (Olomouc) 263 Kumbal 158
L La Bodega Flamenca 160 Letná Beer Garden 159 Literární Kavárna Řetězová 111 Lokal Blok 171 Long Tale Café 159
M G Galerie Azyl (Plzeň) 221 Galerie Kavárna Róza K 138 Grand Cafe Orient 112
Malostranská beseda 90 Mama Coffee 139 Mlýnská Kavárna 89 Monarch Vinný Sklep 112
INDE X D R I N K I N G & N I G H T L I F E
Na Parkánu (Plzeň) 220 Na Spilce (Plzeň) 220 Na Urale 158 Na Verandách 170 Nad Královskou Oborou 156 Nepal (Olomouc) 261 New York Barcaffe (Mariánské Lázně) 232 Noi 89 Nonna Gina (Český Krumlov) 206
Ristorante Sapori 134 Rožmberská Bašta (Třeboň) 212
322 Motor Cafe 139 MP7 (Tábor) 215
N INDE X E N T E R TA I N M E N T
Na Slamníku 159 Na Staré Kovárně 158 Na Věčnosti (Znojmo) 256 Nová Syntéza 159 Novoměstský pivovar 129
O Ouky Douky 159
P Parukářka 148 Petit Café (Mikulov) 252 Pivnice Pegas (Brno) 243 Pivnice U Černého Vola 76 Pivovarský Dům 128 Pivovarský Klub 147-8 Potrefená Husa 161 Potrvá 160 Prague Beer Museum 110
U Richarda (Brno) 242-3 U Slovanské Lípy 148 U Sv Antoníćka 159 U Vystřeleného oka 148 U Zavěšenýho Kafe 76 U Zeleného Čaje 90 U Zlatého Tygra 10, 111
V V Cafe 172 Vertigo (Olomouc) 263 Vinárna Solnice (České Budějovice) 201-2 Vinárna Vínečko 139 Vinařské Centrum (Mikulov) 252 Viniční Altán 138 Vinotéka V Zámecké Bráně (Valtice) 255
W Wash Café 172 Whisky Pub (Tábor) 215
X
R Regent Brewery (Třeboň) 212 Retro Cafe Bar (Karlovy Vary) 227 Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden 137-8 Ryba Na Ruby 139
XT3 148
Z Zapa Cocktail Bar (Český Krumlov) 207 Žlutá Pumpa 138 Ztracený Ráj 160
S Sahara Café 138 Scottish Pub (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Sedm Vlků 148 Singer Pub (České Budějovice) 202 Sokolovna 138 Svijanský Rytíř 160
3 ENTERTAINMENT
T
Bio Oko 162 Blues Sklep 112 Brno State Philharmonic Orchestra (Brno) 245 Buena Vista Club (Plzeň) 221
A AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 112 Alfred Ve Dvoře 162 Archa Theatre 130
B Těsně Vedle Burundi 160
U U Fleků 129 U Malého Glena 90 U Medvídků 111 U Obřího Soudku (Mikulov) 252 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
C Čas Kino (Karlovy Vary) 229 Chamber Philharmonic Orchestra of South Bohemia (České Budějovice) 204 Cinema City (Brno) 245
Cinestar (České Budějovice) 204 Conservatory (České Budějovice) 204 Cross Club 161
D Divadelní Klub Ántré (Český Krumlov) 209 Divadlo Oskara Nedbala (Tábor) 217 Dvořák Hall 113
E Estates Theatre 113
F Fléda (Brno) 244
H Hospoda u Musea (Olomouc) 264
I Image Theatre 113
J Janáček Theatre (Brno) 245 Jazz Club U Staré Paní 112 Jazz Tibet Club (Olomouc) 264 JazzDock 172 JK Tyla Theatre (Plzeň) 222
K Karlovy Vary Symphony Orchestra (Karlovy Vary) 228 Kino Aero 148 Kino Art (Brno) 245 Kino J&K (Český Krumlov) 209 Kino Metropole (Olomouc) 264 Kino Panasonic (Karlovy Vary) 229 Kino Slavia (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Kino Svět (Tábor) 217 Kino Světozor 130 Kino Světozor (Třeboň) 213 Klub Desert (Brno) 245 Konzervatoř (Plzeň) 222
L La Fabrika 162 Laterna Magika 130
Le Clan 140 Lucerna Music Bar 129-30
M Mecca 162 Městské Divadlo (Český Krumlov) 209 Městské Divadlo (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Mighty Bar Velbloud (České Budějovice) 203 Minor Theatre 130 Modrý Dveře Jazz & Blues (České Budějovice) 203 Moravská Filharmonie (Olomouc) 264 Moravské Divadlo (Olomouc) 264 Music Bar Anděl (Plzeň) 222
N National Marionette Theatre 113 National Theatre 130
O ON Club 140 Original Music Theatre of Prague 130
P Palác Akropolis 148 Plaza Cinema City Plzeň (Plzeň) 222 Prague State Opera 130
R Radost FX 140 Reduta Jazz Club 129 Reduta Theatre (Brno) 245 Revolving Theatre (Český Krumlov) 209 Rock Café 129 Roxy 112
S Sasazu 161 Smetana Hall 113 South Bohemian Theatre (České Budějovice) 204 Spejbl & Hurvínek Theatre 162 Stará Pekárna (Brno) 244 Švandovo Divadlo Na Smíchově 172
32 3
J Jan Pazdera 131
V
K Karel Vávra 140 Kiwi 131 Klara Nademlýnská 114 Kotva 115 Kubista 114
Vagon 112
L
Z
Le Patio Lifestyle 115 Leeda 113-14
Zach’s Pub (Plzeň) 221
M
4 SHOPPING A Antikvita 162 Antique Music Instruments 76 Art Deco Galerie 114 Art Décoratif 114 Atrium Flóra 141
B Bat’a 131 Bazar 131 Belda Jewellery 131 Big Ben 114 Bohème 114-15 Bontonland 131 Bořek Šípek 114 Bric A Brac 115
Manufaktura 115 Mapis 173 Maximum Underground 115 Modernista 114 Moser 131
Dejvice Farmers Market 157 Dům Porcelánu 141
F Frey Wille 115
G Galerie České Plastiky 130 Globe Bookstore & Café 131 Granát Turnov 115
N
D Danubius Health Spa Resort Nové Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Design Hotel Sax 189 Dilettante’s Hangout (Český Krumlov) 208 Domus Henrici 188 Dům u velké boty 189
O Obchod S Uměním 140
P Palác Knih Neo Luxor 131 Pavla & Olga 90 Pivní Galerie 162 Pražská Tržnice 162
Q
S Shakespeare & Sons 90 Stockist 140
I Icons Gallery 76
E Embassy Hotel (Karlovy Vary) 227
F Fajká Penzion (Mikulov) 253 Falkensteiner Hotel Grand Spa (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Fusion Hotel 190-1
T Talacko 115 TEG 114
V Vetešnictvi 90 Vinohrady Farmers Market 141
H Havelská Market 115 Hunt-Kastner Artworks 162
C Carlsbad Plaza (Karlovy Vary) 227 Castle Apartments (Český Krumlov) 207 Courtyard By Marriott (Plzeň) 221 Czech Inn 192
Nový Smíchov 173
Qubus 115
D
B Bílý Koníček (Třeboň) 213
4 SLEEPING A A&O Hostel 195 Absolutum Hotel 193-4
G Golden Well Hotel 188 Grand Hotel (Třebíč) 249 Grand Hotel Praha 189 Grandhotel (Brno) 243-4 Grandhotel Pupp (Karlovy Vary) 228 Grandhotel Zvon (České Budějovice) 202
H Holiday Home 192 Hospoda Na Louži (Český Krumlov) 208
Hostel Elf 193 Hostel Fléda (Brno) 244 Hostel Milano (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Hostel Mitte (Brno) 243 Hostel Postel (Český Krumlov) 208 Hostel Skippy (Český Krumlov) 208 Hotel & Pivnice Pegas (Brno) 243 Hotel 16 U Sv Kateřiny 191 Hotel Alley (Olomouc) 263 Hotel Alwyn 193 Hotel Anna 192 Hotel Arbes-Mepro 196 Hotel Aria 188 Hotel Bakalář (Hluboká Nad Vltavou) 203 Hotel Belvedere 195 Hotel Bohemia (České Budějovice) 202 Hotel Boston (Karlovy Vary) 228 Hotel Budweis (České Budějovice) 202 Hotel Celerin (Telč) 247 Hotel Central (Plzeň) 221 Hotel Černý Orel (Kroměříž) 265 Hotel Černý Orel (Telč) 248 Hotel Císař Ferdinand (Loket) 226 Hotel Continental (Plzeň) 221 Hotel Crowne Plaza 195 Hotel Denisa 194 Hotel DvořaK (České Budějovice) 202 Hotel Dvořák (Tábor) 216 Hotel Europa (Brno) 243 Hotel Extol Inn 195 Hotel Hubertus (Valtice) 255 Hotel Josef 190 Hotel Julian 196 Hotel Kammený Dům (Františkovy Lázně) 234 Hotel Kavalerie (Karlovy Vary) 228 Hotel Klika (České Budějovice) 202 Hotel Lahofer (Znojmo) 257 Hotel Leon 194 Hotel Letná 195 Hotel Luník 193 Hotel Maltézsý Kříž (Karlovy Vary) 227 Hotel Malý Pivovar (České Budějovice) 202
INDE X S H O P P I N G
T Ta Fantastika 113 Techtle Mechtle 140 Termix 140 Theatre on the Balustrade 113 Town Theatre (Karlovy Vary) 228
Ametyst 193 Anděl’s Hotel Prague 195 Angelo Hotel 195 Arkada 192 Arpacay Hostel 196 Art Hotel 194 ArtHarmony 191 AT Pension (České Budějovice) 202
324
INDE X S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S
Hotel Mario (Lednice) 255 Hotel Monastery 188 Hotel Nautilus (Tábor) 216 Hotel Neruda 188 Hotel Octárna (Kroměříž) 265 Hotel Omega (Brno) 244 Hotel Ontario (Karlovy Vary) 228 Hotel Oskol (Kroměříž) 266 Hotel Paris (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Hotel Pod Špilberkem (Brno) 243 Hotel Richard (Mariánské Lázně) 234 Hotel Romania (Karlovy Vary) 228 Hotel Růže (Český Krumlov) 208 Hotel Savoy (České Budějovice) 202 Hotel Slovan (Plzeň) 221 Hotel Suite Home 191 Hotel Templ (Mikulov) 253 Hotel Theatrino 193 Hotel U Medvídků 190 Hotel U Zvonu (Plzeň) 221 Hotel Union 196 Hotel Yasmin 191 Hotel Zlatá Hvězda (Třeboň) 212 Hotel Zlatá Stoupa (Kutná Hora) 180 Hunger Wall Residence 189
I Ibis Praha Malá Strana 196 Icon Hotel 191
K Krumlov House (Český Krumlov) 208
L Le Palais Hotel 191-2 Lokál Inn 188 Louren Hotel 192
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
M Miss Sophie’s 191 Mosaic House 190
O Old Prague Hostel 190 Olympia Hotel (Mariánské Lázně) 234 Orion 193
P Pension Angelus (Olomouc) 263 Pension Baltazar (Mikulov) 253 Pension Barbakán (Český Krumlov) 208 Pension City (Plzeň) 221 Pension Danny (Český Krumlov) 208 Pension Dáša (Tábor) 217 Pension Dientzenhofer 189 Pension Edinburgh (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Pension Elbrs (Mariánské Lázně) 233 Pension Jana (Tábor) 217 Pension Kaplanka (Znojmo) 257 Pension Kapr (Český Krumlov) 207-8 Pension Klaret (Valtice) 255 Pension Královský Vinohrad 192 Pension Křivá (Olomouc) 263 Pension Lobo (Český Krumlov) 208-9 Pension Milena (Tábor) 217 Pension Moravia (Mikulov) 253 Pension Moravia (Olomouc) 263 Pension Myší Díra (Český Krumlov) 208 Pension Sebastian (Český Krumlov) 208
Pension Stará Plzeň (Plzeň) 221 Pension Steidler (Telč) 247 Pension Villa Marion (Mariánské Lázně) 233-4 Penzin Kamenné Slunce (Telč) 247-8 Penzión Alfa (Tábor) 216 Penzión Centrum (České Budějovice) 202 Penzión Centrum (Kutná Hora) 180 Penzión Domov (Kroměříž) 266 Penzión Excellent (Kroměříž) 266 Penzion Fontána Mikulov (Mikulov) 253 Penzión Husa (Mikulov) 253 Penzión Menšík (Kroměříž) 266 Penzion Modrá Růže (Třeboň) 212 Penzión Na Hradě (Olomouc) 263 Penzion Na Starém Brně (Brno) 244 Penzión Petra (Telč) 248 Penzión U Kata (Kutná Hora) 180 Penzión u Synagogy (Třebíč) 249 Penzion Zlatá Stoka (Třeboň) 213 Perla Hotel 190 Plaza Alta Hotel 194 Plus Prague Hostel 194 Poet’s Corner (Olomouc) 263
R Residence Karolina 189 Rezidence Zvon (Znojmo) 257 Romantik Hotel U Raka 188
S Savic Hotel 189 Sir Toby’s Hostel 194
T Travellers Hostel (Třebíč) 249 Travellers Hostel (Znojmo) 257
U U Malého Vítka (Český Krumlov) 207 U Salzmannů (Plzeň) 221 U Zeleného Věnce 190 Ubytovna Marie (Olomouc) 263 Ubytovna U Nádraží (České Budějovice) 203
& 2 SPORTS ACTIVITIES
Budvar Arena (České Budějovice) 204 Castle Spa (Karlovy Vary) 229 Danubius Health Spa Resort Nové Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Expedicion (Český Krumlov) 209 Generali Aréna 163 Maleček (Český Krumlov) 209 Plavecký Stadion (České Budějovice) 204 public pool (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Půjčovna Bruslí Miami 163 Royal Golf Club of Mariánské Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Sebastian Tours (Český Krumlov) 209 Slupenec Stables (Český Krumlov) 209 swimming pool (Karlovy Vary) 229
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4 How to Use This Book
easy-to-use sections
Your planning tool kit – Photos, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip.
Explore
Your complete city guide – Top Sights features, in-depth reviews and local tips.
Understand
Get more from your trip – Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of the city.
Survival Guide
Your at-a-glance reference – Vital practical information to help you have a smooth trip.
plus
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ISBN 978-1-74220-139-9
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Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK
We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: R Hemingway, Anita Martin, Mauricio Matsumoto, John, Diane & Natalia Quick, Clare Staines, Stan Vicich
AUTHOR THANKS Neil Wilson
Many thanks to the usual gang, especially Carol Downie and Brendan Bolland, and also to all the bartenders, bookshop owners, baristas and bellhops who helped out with my endless questions about the best places to eat, drink
etc. Plus a big thank you to co-author Mark for making the book so much fun to research, and to Joe and Angela at Lonely Planet for behindthe-scenes support.
Mark Baker I would like to thank my good friends in the Czech Republic, both Czechs and expats, who have helped me to learn about the country and to feel at home here. Thanks too to my co-author, Neil Wilson, for making this edition a pleasure to research and a relatively smooth ride.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Cover photograph: Prague Castle, Prague Christer Fredriksson/Lonely Planet Images
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 31 5 THIS BOOK
Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Dan Austin, Anita Banh, Imogen Bannister, David Carroll, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Tobias Gattineau, Chris Girdler, Mark Griffiths, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Andrea McGinniss, Annelies Mertens, Anna Metcalfe, Trent Paton, Anthony Phelan, Martine Power, Averil Robertson, Wibowo Rusli, Fiona Siseman, Carlos Solarte, Gerard Walker, Amanda Williamson Car
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
BEHIND THE SCENES
This 10th edition of Lonely Planet’s Prague & the Czech Republic guidebook was researched and written by Neil Wilson and Mark Baker. The previous two editions were also written by Neil Wilson and Mark Baker. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Joe Bindloss Coordinating Editor Luna Soo Coordinating Cartographer Andrew Smith
Coordinating Layout Designer Yvonne Bischofberger Managing Editor Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Alison Lyall, Amanda Sierp Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Assisting Editors Carolyn Boicos, Kate Evans, Carly Hall, Pat Kinsella, Charles Rawlings-Way, Saralinda Turner Assisting Cartographers Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Alex Leung Assisting Layout Designers Adrian Blackburn, Nicholas Colicchia, Carol Jackson
