A tudás hatalom. (Knowledge is Power) MiértjóAKreAtivitás? What good is creativity? FiCtiON 30,000 feet high with the smut king

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BUDAPEST LIVING

A tudás hatalom. MiértjóAKreAtivitás? What good is creativity?

FiCtiON 30,000 feet high with the smut king

jAZZ Hard bop in Budapest

(Knowledge is Power) lOgiKA a racionális gondolkodás csapdája

eAtZ

iNDUstrY How wine can save Hungary

MAD MeN Átlátni a cigarettafüstön

Thinky’s Favourite eating Joints

AgeNDA 14 Ways to Leave your Sofa

rOMKOCsMA Fun in ruin Bars

A CAtAlOgUe OF treNDiNess MAsqUerADiNg As DeeP thOUght • www.thiNK-MAgAZiNe.COM • 09/2010 #01

hUMANiFestO THINk, a CaTaLOGUe OF TreNdINeSS MaSQUeradING aS deep THOUGHT…

BUDAPEST

those to blame: Vol. I, Issue 01 eDitOriAl DireCtOr/FősZerKesZtő: Francis Pruett – [email protected] hUNgAriAN eDitOr: Wavrik Gábor– [email protected] CreAtive DireCtOr: J. Benét – [email protected] PUblisher/KiADó: Attila Szvacsek – [email protected] eU sAles DireCtOr: Tereza Krejčiřová – [email protected] Tel: +36 306 516 150 UK MArKetiNg: Darren Halls – [email protected] Tel: +44 769 054 0796 eDitOr eMeritUs: Alexander Zaitchik CONtribUtOrs: Alice Genes, Angus Matthews, Greta Nagy, Hilary Frink, Horváth Miklós, Joe Bodia, Lance Winslow, Laura Evans, Scott Alexander Young, Stanley Holditch, Suzanne Urpecz, and Tony Bellucci ON the COver: Berta Molnár, Stylist: Angie Pálmai, MakeUp: Judit Mihály, Photo: Attila Szvacsek

Köszöntünk a think első számával, mely budapest új, havonta megjelenő magazinja! Think az Inkybrain gondozásában jelenik meg, sok lelkes kolléga közreműködő munkájának eredményeként. Lapunk hosszú hagyományokra, egészen pontosan 14 éves múltra tekint vissza. Első, 1996 őszén Prágában megjelent kiadásunk óta tervezzük (melyet 2004-ben a Szingapúrban kiadott Think követett), hogy egyszer Budapesten is megjelenünk minőségi tartalmat kínáló, közösségformáló lapunkkal. Úgy gondoljuk, ennek most jött el az ideje, és ezzel régi álmunk válik valóra. A 2010-es években egyre fontosabbá válik, hogy Budapest megerősítse identitását, és reméljük, hogy a Think ebben fontos szerepet fog játszani. Jó látni, hogy sokan osztoznak lelkesedésünkben. Nem titkolt célunk, hogy elsősorban az előremutató dolgokról írjunk. Negatív témák nálunk nem lesznek. A pozitív jelenségekre koncentrálunk, ezzel szeretnénk segíteni Magyarország fejlődését. Rendszeresen közlünk majd írásokat progresszív gondolkodású, ismert közéleti személyiségektől, de nem lesz hiány beszámolókból, illetve a város fejlődését pozitív irányba lendítő üzleti vállalkozások bemutatásából sem. Nagy hangsúlyt helyezünk a közösségi, kulturális, művészeti és non-profit témákra, de nem tévesztjük szem elől azt sem, hogy a Think Magazin elsősorban az önkifejezésről és a szórakozásról szól. Mindenkit arra biztatunk, hogy írjon a Think-nek és írjon a Think-be, mert szeretnénk igazi városi fórummá válni! Várjuk leveleiteket a [email protected] e-mail címre, szerkesszük közösen a Think-et!

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thiNK bUDAPest is published in partnership with Inkybrain Media Ventures Pte Ltd, 114 Middle Rd #01-00, Singapore 188971 and Attila Szvacsek, Pécs, Kovács Béla u. 8. 7634 NYOMDA: Kvadrát 97 KFT 1118, Budapest, Ugron Gábor u. 12 issN: 1212-13098 geNerAl eNqUiries: [email protected] web: www.think-magazine.com Copyright © is held by the publishers where applicable. All rights reversed. Reproduction in whole or in part requires permission of the authors. the FiNe PriNt: Think Magazine comes

welcome to our launch issue of think, budapest's new monthly magazine. rought to you by our team at Inkybrain, with the support of our contributors and many others in our community. This magazine has been many years in the making. 14 to be exact. Since our very first issue was launched in September of 1996 in Prague, (and Singapore in 2004) we have had a desire to produce a quality, community-focussed magazine for Budapest for a long time and believe now is the perfect time to introduce it. With the 2010s upon us, it is more important than ever that the city enhances its identity and Think Budapest hopes to play an important part. It is pleasing that many appear to share our passion. Unashamedly Think will highlight all that is good about our slice of paradise. If you want to read the negative then you'll have to look elsewhere. We are firmly focussed on the positive, assisting in the development and growth of the nation and mother Europa. There will be regular columns from prominent, forward thinking people in our community. We will highlight events, we will highlight progressive businesses that are making significant contributions. A strong focus will be community, cultural, artistic and not-for-profit groups, but primarily, Think is about having fun and expressing yourself. We urge all our readers to contribute to Think. We want this to be your vehicle to inform, so write us at [email protected] and we’ll see you on the inside!

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THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

people wIll belIeve aNyTHINg If you wHIsper IT.

out when Think Magazine comes out (usually the first Friday of the month). We follow the moon, and it’s deep mysteries. Think Magazine is an Entertainment Information Periodical established in Prague, c. 1996 by a team of visionaries dissatisfied with the current state of the free press market. Think Magazine is brought to you by the principles of freedom; of expression, of thought, of potential and of life in all of it’s many manifest forms and shapes. Think Magazine is brought to you by all of our volunteers, supporters and advertisers who make this endeavour possible. To them we give thanks.

 logika

A racionális gondolkodás csapdája Photo: Ioannis Ramfos “Thinking of You.”

aZ öNIGaZOLÁS, MINT a raCIONaLITÁS éS MOrÁL eLLeNSéGe valójában nem olyan okosak, mint amilyennek mondják magukat és szép lassan elpártoltak tőlük. Ezzel szemben a hívők azon csoportja, amely feladott mindent a hitükért, szintén látta, hogy nem lesz világvége, és ezt úgy értelmezték, hogy a világ megmenekült hála ennek a kis csoportnak akik a hitükkel megmentették a világot. Festingerék ezt az úgynevezett kognitív disszonanciával magyarázták. Ennek az a lényege, hogy néhány szituációban két ellentétes gondolat 'fészkeli be magát' az ember fejébe. Ez esetben: „Én egy értelmes ember vagyok, tehát csak olyan valláshoz csatlakozok, ami ha azt mondja ki, hogy vége lesz a világnak, akkor úgy is lesz.” és „Nem lett vége a világnak.”. Festinger szerint ez a két ellentétes gondolat arra készteti az illetőt, hogy ezt igazolja valami olyan érvvel, ami saját magát a lehető legjobb színben tünteti fel, tehát nem rontja az önképét: „Azért nem lett vége a világnak, mert én és a társaim jó hívők voltunk, és megmentettük a világot”, ez mindjárt jobban esik az egónak.

Nagy lehet a távolság a tudatunk által észlelt világ és az objektív valóság között.

LONdONBóL SZeMBeTűNő, MeNNYIre NeM BíZNak ITTHON aZ eMBerek aZ OrvOSOkBaN, ÁLLaMI TISZTSéGvISeLőkBeN, pOLITIkUSOkBaN, éS SaJNOS NeM aLapTaLaNUL. GreTa NaGY

itől lesz például egy politikus erkölcstelen? Eleve így indul neki a pályának, vagy útközben válik meg morális érzékétől? Személy szerint, nem hiszem, hogy az a terv jár egy fiatal egyetemista fejében, hogy gazdag lesz bármilyen áron. Szerintem (bár lehet, hogy túl optimista vagyok) jó néhány politikus növendék pozitív ambíciókkal kezdi pályafutását, tele segíteni akarással. Akkor mégis mi változik meg? Pszichológiai tanulmányaim során tanultam egy dologról, ami sok mindent megmagyaráz. Miért van az, hogy ha választunk egy utat (akármilyen erkölcstelen is), nem tudunk róla időben letérni?

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Körülbelül 50 évvel ezelőtt egy amerikai szociálpszichológus, Leon Festinger, egy tudományos kísérlet részeként beilleszkedett egy akkoriban W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

működő szektába. Ennek a csoportnak az volt a fő 'tana', hogy az egész világnak vége lesz az adott év decemberének 21-dik napján. Természetesen az igaz hívőknek semmi bajuk nem történt volna, hiszen őket elvitte volna egy repülő csészealj valahova az űrbe (igen, tényleg ezt hitték!). Emiatt sok hívő megtette a megfelelő intézkedéseket: felmondtak a munkahelyükön, eladták a házaikat, és elköltötték a megtakarított pénzüket. Mások, akik nem mertek ennyire drasztikus lépéseket megtenni, csak otthon remélték, hogy így is elviszi őket a csészealj. Festingerék arra voltak kíváncsiak, hogy mi történik, miután (remélhetőleg) nem lesz vége a világnak 20-án éjfélkor. Jött az éjfél és nem jött a csészealj. Azok, akik nem tettek semmit, rájöttek, a csoport vezetői

Még sok ilyen összezavaró gondolatpárt oldunk meg hasonlóan, például: „Van elég önfegyelmem ahhoz, hogy betartsam a diétámat”, viszont „Eszek csokit”. Tehát, amit ebből kieszelhetünk: „Egy csoki még nem a világ vége, és amúgy sem szeretnék ennyit szenvedni az alakom miatt, amúgy se szép az, ha valaki nagyon vékony” és így tovább. Amikor Angliában tanultam, már harmadéves koromban gondolkoztam azon, hogy kocsit veszek, mikor beköltöztem Londonba. Ki is néztem egy bizonyos típusú autót, de mielőtt megvettem volna, kikértem a tanácsát az egyik ismerősömnek, aki olyan autóval járt. Ez rossz ötlet volt most már látom. Az ismerősöm ódákat zengett a kocsi megbízhatóságáról, ezzel szemben közös barátok felvilágosítottak róla, hogy ez egyáltalán nem így van, mert az ismerősöméknek folyamatosan meggyűlik a baja a kocsival, már hónapok óta hol ez romlik el benne, hol az. Először furcsállottam, hogy miért hazudtak nekem, de aztán elgondolkodtam a kognitív disszonancián. Mivel viszonylag sok pénzt fektettek ebbe az autóba, de nem olyan volt, amilyenre számítottak, inkább kitalálták

maguknak, miért is jó a kocsi: „igen, igaz, hogy elromlott már benne pár dolog, de hát minden kocsi elromlik egyszer-egyszer, és amúgy is nagyon tágas, és jó áron vettük meg...”, elindultak a téves gondolkodás útján. Ugyanezen az egyetemen, az egyik professzorom hasonlót játszott el a dohányzással. Akkor még nem lépett életbe a dohányzási tilalom, és ezt ki is használva úgy füstölt mint egy gyárkémény, néha még óra közben is. Nem volt még idős, a kollegái elmondása szerint makacs sem volt, csak ebben. Tagadta a dohányzás káros hatásait, és valahányszor megjelent egy olyan tanulmány, ami egy kicsit is a dohányzás káros hatása ellen szólt, nem késlekedett a tantestület orrába dörgölni az eredményeket. Minél több pénzt vagy energiát fektetünk egy általunk hozott rossz döntésbe, annál jobban fogunk ragaszkodni ahhoz, az önbecsülésünk érdekében. Azok az emberek, akiket megvesztegetnek pont így lehetnek vele: „Elfogadtam egy kisebb összeget, de én erkölcsös ember vagyok, de „ez csak egy kis összeg, megérdemeltem, amúgy is mindenki ezt csinálja...” és már elindult az önigazolás útján.

A későbbiekben az egyre nagyobb összegek és az egyre erkölcstelenebb döntések lépésről lépésre az előzőek igazolásává vállnak. „Csak” el kell egyszer kezdeni. A későbbiekben az egyre nagyobb összegek és egyre erkölcstelenebb döntések lépésről lépésre az előzőek igazolásává vállnak. „Csak” el kell egyszer kezdeni. Az önbecsülés és önbizalom fontos dolog. Az embernek, mint szocializálódott állatfajnak erre szüksége van a fennmaradáshoz. Erről az oldalról tehát értelmesnek tűnik az elménknek ez a kis trükkje. Viszont, amit én megtanultam az, hogy figyeljem önmagamat, és egy-egy nagyobb döntésnél próbáljam végiggondolni, hogy vajon tényleg jó okok miatt hozom meg, vagy tartok ki mellette? THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

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what good is creativity? MIérT Jó a kreaTIvITÁS? nd don’t get me started on what the creative drive does to your mental health. Many of the greatest writers, comedians and artists have suffered from depression. Does 27 HóNapOS depression stimulate the inJeFFree BeNéT tellect? It appears that deLÁNYOM, JULCSI pression causes introspection, which then stimulates the intellect, providing us with geniuses like Jim Carrey, James Joyce and some eLéGGé „kaJÁS”. eGY historians even say that the dark nights of the soul (aka depression) is what helped Greece become one of the greatest civilizations. éve úGY GONdOLTa, Of course some of those depressed great writers and thinkers also met tragic ends. So I wouldn't advise it as a means for inspiHOGY aMIkOr éHeS, ration. But the question launching this article isn’t about depression, it’s about creativity. Does creativity mean you have to come up with something that’s never been thought of or created before? Or is it in finding new ways to looking at what alNeM eLéG HaTékONY, Ha ready exists and presenting it in a new light? And what's more important, creativity or success? I think creativity, because aZT MONdJa, HOGY „HaMI” without creativity you won't have any fun, and therefore won't get success in anything. Creativity is just more fun! Un(NaGYMaMÁJÁT UTÁNOZva), less the lawyers get involved.

THeY SaY THaT IN everY CreaTIve aCT THere IS THe Seed OF deSTrUCTION. TO Make a CHaIr, YOU Need TO kILL a Tree, TO Make aN OMeLeTTe YOU Have TO Break a FeW eGGS, ad NaUSeUM. BUT IS IT reaLLY aLL WOrTH IT?

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éS HOGY: „add Ide” (a TöBBI Just this past week, Madonna, that slag, has landed herself in US courts for a line of clothing she and her GYerekeT UTÁNOZva). 13=year old daughter Lourdes launched called ‘Material Girl’, and which seem to be selling rather well in WavrIk GÁBOr Macy’s and other upscale department stores. Well, it turns out that since 1997 a company called LA Triumph has been selling an identical category of clothing called, yes... ‘Material Girl’. Reading many of the comments on the internet, her defenders say she should own it because “it’s her phrase”. But it’s not. sszevonta a két kifejezést, és azóta konzekvensen csak annyit The original recipient of that moniker was none other than Marylin Monroe, given to her by commond: „Hamida!” A családban mindenki érti és használja is mentators in the aftermath of Diamonds Are A Girl’s Best Friend. ezt a szót, és lányom rendre meg is kapja a kívánt kiflivagy párizsi darabot. A csemetékben nincs félelem attól, hogy egy ötletük nem biWe live in a “cut and paste” culture enabled by technology. zonyul jónak. Életük folyamatos játék és kreativitás, így könnyebben állnak elő Anyone building a presentation knows the extraordinary eredeti ötletekkel. Picasso mondta egyszer, hogy minden gyermek művésznek freedom that the cut and paste architecture of the Interszületik. Sokan valamiféle isteni adománynak gondolják a kreativitást, ami ilyennet created — in a second you can find just about any olyan mértékben mindannyiunkban megvan. image you want; in another second, you can have it planted in your presentation. Reminds me of Jim JarA hinduk temetéskor elégetik halottjaikat, kivéve a gyerekeket, mert úgy musch poignant quote: tartják, hogy a kicsikben még száz százalékig ott van isten, ezért nekik nincs szükségük tisztítótűzre. “Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old Julcsi megmozgatta a körülötte levők kreativitását is. Mivel széles járomcsontfilms, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, ja valamelyest ázsiai génekre utal, bőre viszont hófehér, japán hangzású neveket dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, találtunk ki neki. Olyanokat, mint: Mamacici Nasicumi, Kakiszagu Wakarék, Picisitrees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things ma Pukimaki. Amikor tipegni kezdett, és egy méter magasságig már mindent elért, to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your a hangsúly szőke haja és kék szeme miatt ruszin vonásaira terelődött, így orosz nevet work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; is kapott: Julianna Lepakolszkaja Hancúrova. originality is non-existent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery - celebrate it if you feel like it. In any case, always Ahogy emlékszem, gyerekkoromban minden nap rajzoltam. Annak idején gyakorlatiremember what Jean-Luc Godard said: “It’s not where lag semmi erőfeszítésembe nem került két dimenzióban látni a háromdimenziós valóságot, you take things from - it’s where you take them to.” így elég könnyen vetettem papírra bármit. Vajon hová tűnt ez a képesség? Manapság nem kevés olyan napom van, amikor fő kreatív tevékenységem az, amikor összeállítom a reggeli One's creative potential is shriveling unemeletes szendvicset. derneath copywritten material. In Japan, the idea of doujinshi seems to be the Persze az sem mindegy, ki milyen területen kreatív. A 80-as években volt egy haverom, kind of creativity that we are not alF. Peti, aki autószerelőként kezdte pályáját. Minden szokatlan helyzetben görcsöt kapott, pocsék lowed to think twice about doing. I szerelő volt, el is tanácsolták az első műhelyéből. Bánatában jelentkezett a közgazdasági szakközépbe, itt remek tanuló volt, így hát believe doujinshi should be the könnyedén bejutott a közgazdasági egyetemre, ahol elit szakon is a legjobbak között végzett. Később sikeres elméleti szakember, pénzügyi boundary we hit when it comes elemző lett belőle, sok problémát oldott meg. to how far we can go when it comes to violating copyA kreativitást sokan, sokféle képen definiálták már. Hozzám az a meghatározás áll a legközelebb, mely szerint a kreativitás az a képesség, amiright. Creativity is what vel valami eredetit hozunk létre, olyat, ami hasznos (a fejlődést segíti) vagy örömöt okoz. give us new things to build upon, othAmi a hasznosságot illeti, a fejlődés a mai társadalom egyik vezérlő elve, mégis sokan úgy gondolják, hogy nem feltétlenül tesz jót a világnak. Bonyolíerwise we’d be tja az életünket, nehéz lépést tartani vele, így növeli a stresszt és betegségeket okoz, és fokozhatja zűrzavart. A taoisták szerint káoszt okoznak azok, akik sitting around erőszakos eszközökkel igyekeznek tökéletesíteni magukat és a világot. Erőszakos eszköz az agresszív marketing? Nem tudom, de sokak szerint zseniális dolog bored and az iPhone! naked... De mi a helyzet az örömmel? A kreativitás rengeteg területen generálhat örömöt. A művészetek által okozott élményen kívül gondolhatunk kulináris élvezetekre, szexre, humorra vagy az egyéb intellektuális örömökre, mint amilyen egy elmés és nívós vita után egy koccintás (még akkor is, ha nem nekünk lett igazunk). Közvetve, vagy közvetlenül a szeretet után valószínűleg a kreativitás okozza a legtöbb örömöt a világban. Tehát külön szerencse lenne egy kreatív ember szeretete? Lehet, de ez már egy másik téma. Egy biztos, boldog a kreatív ember, amikor alkot, és az is, aki élvezi, amit teremt.

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THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

„amIT Nem aKarsz magadNaK, azT Ne Tedd soHa mással.” - KoNfucIusz

0 fiction

30,000 feet high with the porn king aN aLISTaIr paINe STOrY

“Fletcher had arrived on board at the last possible moment...”

aLISTaIr paINe Had BeeN ON a pLaNe FrOM BUdapeST TO LONdON WHeN He MeT BUdapeST’S SeLF-prOFeSSed ‘kING OF THe THree WaY’, a pOrNOGrapHer NaMed raYMONd FLeTCHer. SCOTT aLexaNder YOUNG

e had been sitting waiting for his plane to take off, when Fletcher had arrived on board at the last possible moment and dropped his briefcase. It had spilled open and so had piles of pornographic photos – ‘eight by ten’ glossies of aspiring hard core ‘actresses’. Raymond had looked up at the shocked passengers, the sole empty seat with his assigned number, the frowning stewardess and… Alistair, who sat there feeling idiotic, until Raymond locked eyes with his and he felt his face flush red and in a reflex action, abruptly turned away, ‘like a blushing schoolgirl’, bowels turning over with embarrassment. But why should Alistair feel embarrassed?

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“How fabulous”, laughed Raymond, as he calmly collected his pile of exTHINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

posed flesh. Alistair regained himself and took a long, appraising look at the exotic creature that would be his travelling companion for the next eight hours. He wore a giraffe patterned pair of Versace trousers with a paisley shirt and a powder blue, silver studded, dress cotton jean jacket. Tinted sunglasses concealed mooncalf brown eyes. In point of fact, Raymond’s eyes were permanently hidden behind shades of various hue, today they were aqua blue, tomorrow magenta? Easy peasy Lemon squeezy?

“Now we just zip that up… stuff it in here…” Raymond was narrating his movements as he placed his bag in the overhead compartment. Alistair Paine wondered whether to tell the hoary old joke about an airline passenger who masturbates over a girly magazine gatefold and then says to his fellow passenger, ‘Mind if I smoke?’ He thought better of it. Again, why should he feel embarrassed? “Raymond Fletcher”, said the man in the giraffepatterned pants, extending a bejewelled hand with long manicured

“THe besT TIme To plaNT a Tree Is 20 years ago. THe secoNd besT TIme Is Now.” – cHINese proverb

nails. “I expect you’re wondering about the smut?”

“Reasonable supposition”, replied Alistair, who had regained his cool sufficiently to affect worldly nonchalance. The explanation came, and it was nothing if not loquacious. To summarise: Raymond Fletcher was firstly a photographer who had first gone to Eastern Europe in ‘92, “on a shoot for Cosmo”. While in Budapest his agent had contacted him and said that Penthouse needed someone on the ground in Budapest to shoot an up and coming Hungarian porn star, (the photographer assigned the job having just died of a drug overdose). Porn became a staple of his work, “much more lucrative than fashion photography darling, and certainly not as pretentious. I mean, that’s real work, especially for the guys, having to get it up and keep it up”. Trouble with the Inland Revenue in the UK saw him relocate permanently to Budapest a few years later, by which time Raymond Fletcher had discov-

ered the internet, and how to really make money from smut.

“There might seem to you, my dear, to be an inexhaustible supply of this terrible shit, but trust me, there’s an inexhaustible demand. I’m looking for new girls all the time. And no, before you ask, I am not in the least bit aroused by the stuff I shoot. It might as well be farming implements for all it does for me. Besides, my own machinery stopped functioning as it should a few years ago, and dear God, what a relief. My former wife – I married her for her Green card – said it must be all the drugs I used to take when I was younger. If that’s the case, I wish I had taken more drugs, earlier, and saved myself an awful lot of bother”. tatements like this came as naturally to Raymond Fletcher as passing wind comes to a heavy cider drinker. Not long after declaring his impotence Raymond was announcing his intentions to father a son, “and if it’s a boy I hope he’ll be gay, and talented.” A girl? “Well, stupid, streetsmart, vain, shallow and beautiful, I suppose. But the trouble is finding the right mate. And you know, I want to have children when I’m still an age to enjoy them”.

s

‘Dear God’, Alistair thought, though he was determined not to appear shocked by anything his travelling companion said. As Fletcher talked, he studied him more closely. As he expostulated he waved his hand around as if smoking an ‘air cigarette’, and indeed once on terra firma he smoked continuously. It occurred to Alistair that there were actually very few people you could, in real life, describe as ‘reptilian’. That was a term for Bond villains, not real people; or so he had thought, until meeting Raymond Fletcher. There were odd times when the very temperature seemed to drop in the man’s presence… Fletcher’s sallow skin was adorned by a treasure chest’s worth of solid silver rings, bracelets and necklaces. Over a period of twenty or more years, he had trained himself to conceal his teeth when he smiled, and to cover them with his hand, when he laughed his hoot-hoot-hoot of a laugh. When these ruses failed, a glimpse of his dental ranks was alarming. The inside of his mouth was that of a medieval peasant. His teeth were yellowing stumps in a black morass. Raymond W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

Fletcher had been visiting ‘one of his girls’, he said, one of his former models who was working the strip clubs of Canada’s West Coast. He planned to spend a few days in London “treating my body like a theme park”, and then on to Florence, Italy, “to commit a murder”. This not only got Alistair’s attention, but that of the passengers seated fore and aft.

“For connoisseurs of life such as we, who have tried every high, drugs, sex, what you will, and now find them all shallow, murder is the last great adventure...” “Sweet pea, I’m joking. I’m actually just going back to Budapest to finish work on a new website, ‘threeway dot com’. But I do think it must be wonderful to actually, you know, murder someone. And Italy, as Ms Highsmith and others knew only too well, provides such a wonderful backdrop for a civilised murder. Alright, you’re in London for a day or two, that’ll do. Take a walk among its throbbing humanity, and imagine yourself choosing someone at random from the crowds in Leicester Square or Convent Garden. Some pissed-up city type weaving home after curry and pints perhaps. Imagine following them to their door, and slitting their throat. It’s a thrilling notion isn’t it?” (And Alistair Paine silently admitted to himself that it was).

Gondolkodnál?

A Think Magazin jó szokásához híven rendszeresen jelenteti meg helyi írók, grafikusok és fotósok munkáit, hogy minél átfogóbb és innnovatívabb közösségi lapot teremtsen. Ha szeretnél hozzájárulni a Think-hez, küldj emailt a [email protected]. Bármilyen témát szívesen látunk, szóval ha ötleted van, amit megjelentetnél a Think-ben, csak küld el... csupa fülek vagyunk!

“For connoisseurs of life such as we, who have tried every high, drugs, sex, what you will, and now find them all shallow, murder is the last great adventure”. By this point, Fletcher had talked almost without interruption for three hours and the effort, plainly, had exhausted him. He had worked hard to build to this crescendo and temporarily a spent force, he abruptly fell asleep. Much to the Alistair Paine’s surprise, the slumbering Raymond Fletcher snored to beat the band.

Do you Think?

Think Magazine is always looking for local writers, journalists and photographers to continue to make Think Budapest the most innovative and comprehensive community magazine. If you would like to contribute to Think email [email protected]. Almost all subjects are welcome, so if you have an idea for a story that you would like to see Think Magazine publish…we’re all ears!

10 Venezuela Columbia Ecuador Brazil Peru Bolivia

Argentina

thinkexpats

From the Andes to the Danube paTrICIO vIZUeTe-GONZÁLeZ HaS pLeNTY TO SMILe aBOUT... “budapesT Is a dream, IT Is amazINg,” THe dapper ecuadorIaN mused, smIlINg. “lIberTy brIdge wITH a boTTle of wINe aNd a vIew of THe rIver... THIs Is budapesT's spIrIT. INspIraTIoN!” FraNCIS prUeTT

atricio Vizuete-González is a content man, and for good reason. He is the owner of De Nuvio Casta, a successful development company, true. His contentment is not restful. His life is a gathering of resources, a constant harvesting of trades and knowledge. A pursuit of inspiration. His involvement with Hungary and, specifically, Budapest, goes back to the ending years of Communism. He arrived as a student at ELTE, the esteemed Eötvös Loránd University, continuing studies in engineering he began in Ecuador. “It was very competitive,” he said of his entry. “Very hard to get in.”

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He enjoyed his life as a student, and noted stark contrasts between Ecuador and Hungary. “It was wonderful,” he said. “Everyone was reading, children, adults, everyone. I was also amazed at how they had everything for free, except freedom of movement.” He completed his studies but wanted more. He went to London, where things became difficult. “I tried to study but could not raise the money,” he said. He returned to Hungary and finished a Juris Doctorate, just as Hungary was moving into a postcommunist boom. “I was working with the embassy, bringing products from one country to another,” he shared. Trade was flourishing. One project he was involved in was the shipping of fruit from South America. The Hungarian fruit economy was not good when he started. “You had oranges and bananas were only available at Christmas,” he said. “A German port made things too expensive and supplies were limited.” THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

The solution was to gather bananas from South America and ship them trough Romania. Prices plummeted and supplies swelled, as did selection. Mandarins apples, peaches and other fruit have since followed. There was more to be done. Argentina, Columbia and his native Ecuador invested in farm equipment and factories from Eastern Europe. One need he saw and filled helped with food security for the Latin countries. “Hungary has always had good preservation techniques for food,” he said. “We never had this in my country.” They do now, and food can sit on the shelves without going to waste. But soon, the trade game became less engaging than it had been. He still works in countries across Europe when there is an opportunity, but his development company keeps him close to Budapest. But even if it did not, other factors happily do. VizueteGonzáles fell in love with Hungary and, as is so common, a Hungarian woman. Ildikó has born him two sons, Martin and Renato. A third is along the way, and he knows it is a boy, “I continue to build my football team.” he quipped. He is not yet a citizen, and is content to be a resident. But he continues to contribute, he says, and gladly. “Perhaps my life would be easier in Ecuador,” he says. “Here, I have to work. Work, hard, work a lot. But there is so much here I love.” As if on cue his wife appears and the interview comes to a close with a parting thought. “If there is anything I wish I could give to the Hungarian people but have not been able to, it is my optimism,” he said with a sheepish grin. “Hungary has a very good future ahead.” And that seems a fair trade, inspiration repaid in kind.

A special thanks from the Think team for inspiring us to launch an edition in Budapest! Photo: Attila Szvacsek, shot at Alexandra Books

THere's a fINe lINe beTweeN cuddlINg aNd HoldINg someoNe dowN so THey caN'T geT away.

11 expat life

gone in six Months keepING THe deparTUre HOrIZON aT BaY TWO apOLOGIeS TO GO OUT: THe FIrST GOeS OUT TO MY BOSSeS/pUBLISHerS FOr NOT WrITING WHaT I WaS aSked TO WrITe, aNd INSTead TUrNING IN SOMeTHING COMpLeTeLY UNreLaTed, aNd I'M SUre, UNWaNTed. STANLEY HOLDITCH

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n a city practically bursting at the seams with mediocre writers, you would think me grateful to be plucked out of the lowing herd and dutifully set to the task laid before me, but apparently you (and I) have thought wrong. If all truth be told, the task was slightly ambiguous to begin with: “Write something interesting... something about bars...” Recognizing these instructions to be mutually exclusive, I chose to take a stab at the former rather than slopping out another of the latter. I mean really, if you can’t find a good bar in this town then you probably shouldn’t be in one anyway. I hear Pszichiátriai és Fogyatékos Betegek Otthona is taking applications. The second apology goes to the reader, if he or she exists, for robbing him/her of an article that possibly could have contained some useful information, and perhaps even helped to perk up an overly humid, rain-bogged existence. If this is the case, and whoever is confused enough to pick up this magazine oh so desperately wishes that he (do I really have to put “or she” every time?*) or she could just read about a cool bar in which to plop, please refer to every other page of this magazine. So here goes with my conclusions and observations, which I’m sure that thousands of others have already arrived at in half the time and with twice the eloquence, but as I’ve already righteously dug myself into a hole, I might as well spit them out. I’m standing around at my friend Ray’s party, a decidedly expatriot affair, with a few locals thrown in to keep the egotism down to a respectable level, and I’m about to hear Sublime for the fourth consecutive time. It’s not that I don’t dig that Californy sound, it’s just that after the third time, it’s hard to get the ‘89 vision. In the lull between the last song and the first, I half-willingly ensnared myself in an epic tale of DVD Player purchasing, being told by a friend-acquaintance who had just that night upped his rank to friend. The reason W W W. T H I N K - M A G A Z I N E . C O M

for this I will disclose later. Anyway, this now fully recognized friend takes me on a whirling narrative journey; I feel his reluctance at the weighty purchase, I share in his exhilaration in slapping down the cash, and I wince at the sting of discovering it to be incompatible with the television. It’s only when he tells me that it was a stupid purchase anyway, because he’s leaving in six months, that I am blasted out of my tale-spun reverie and reduced to inward chuckles. “Of course,” I get out between snorts, “six months.” Chuckling, because I realize that ever since I have been here, I’ve been leaving in six months. So far my six months has lasted a year-and-ahalf, but this seems paltry compared to my companion, who has been here for over four years. I wonder how long his six months has lasted. It occurs to me at this point that most of us ex-patriots — and here I am excluding permanent residents and business owners — are in a sense connected. I won’t call it camaraderie, which would be laughable. The jealousies that abound in our little pool would make swimmers of bigger ponds blush: more private students, better language school, or the trump of all trumps, not working for a language school! I will instead call it a mutual understanding. A mutual understanding that we are all buoyed by a life raft of falsehoods, and were one of us to stick the pin in someone else’s “six months”, we would all soon find ourselves at the bottom of the Laurentian Abyssal of reality. We, however, understand this, and holding our tongues, remain afloat. Furthermore, we, and apparently only we, know what questions not to ask. We no longer ask why anyone came here, each of us having learned what a potential Pandora’s Box this question can be, and we don’t ask how long anyone is planning to stay, realiz-

“why six months? Probably because it’s still just a little too far off to buy plane tickets, but close enough to provide us with the illusion that we are finally getting our shit together.” ing that the proverbial “six months” will be spat out at us as quickly and bald-facially as we ourselves would spit it out. So why six months? Probably because it’s still just a little too far off to buy plane tickets, but close enough to provide us with the illusion that we are finally getting our shit together. Perhaps an even better question is why we feel the need to lie to ourselves and others at all? Like all good questions, there is no simple answer, but like all pompous idiots, I will give one.

And if they better us at both our lifestyle and our artistic endeavors? Simple. Superior western disdain. Our industrial strength derision sump-pump sucks them right out and keeps our pond the way we like it; small and safe. After all, if any of us wanted a truly healthy and competitive artistic environment, we’d be in Perugia or New York. The funniest part is that none of us really needs this “six months”, but if we are addicted to the magic feather, we can take it with us anywhere in the world. All one has to do is realize that all the time she’s imagined herself warming up in the batting cage, she’s been at the plate. (*see how well that works?) As long as we don’t see ourselves as destined for some far-off greatness, and recognize that our palinka-blurred poverty is a hell of a lot more real than these delusions, then all is peachy. Then again, I’m no one to preach, as my departure time hasn’t changed. As promised, I will now explain the elevation of my story-teller from acquaintance-friend to friend. It’s because he told me that when he leaves in six months time (chuckle, chuckle), he won’t e-mail me, and I responded that I wouldn’t e-mail him either.

Because the most powerful and dear illusion in all our lives is that this is essentially just practice. We all believe that we can skate in and out of near successes and complete failures with impunity, that all our relationships are not to be regarded with a serious or analytical eye, and whatever disgraces we heap upon our records, whether socially or artistically, will be wiped clean, because, what the hell, we’re leaving in six months.

He added that it wasn’t anything personal, but I forgave him this postscript. The “I’ll e-mail you” promise has become just as much a pacifier to our breed as the “six months”, but as any baby would tell you, a pacifier ain’t no tit. Anyone who has enough respect for me to forgo this dishonest formality, I definitely consider a friend.

We sit in our dingy, low-rent apartments and watch the Hungarians sail into success with disinterested eyes, because we came here to give all that up, and besides, what can be done in six months time?

And lastly, if any of you out there find this article offensive, totally untrue, partially untrue, or just poorly written, please write in and tell me about it, but you better do it soon. I’m outta here in six months. THINK BUDAPEST CITY MAGAZINE

12 venues

jAZZ gArDeN 1053 BUdapeST, vereS pÁLNé UTCa 44, MaGYarOrSZÁG WWW.JaZZGardeN.HU, T: 06 1 266 7364 azz Garden had humble beginnings but big dreams. The founders of the venue sought, “a suitable spot for our club in the inner city. The kind that us as musicians would have loved to play in.” What they found was a dank hole filled with trash. From those fetid depths was born a first-class venue. Jazz aficionados pass through an entry parlor with a high ceiling, and windingly descend into the basement, passing framed portraits of performers past along the way. Jazz Garden is an acoustically and esthetically fine-tuned space. The design seems inspired by early 20th-century garden cafes in Paris, and features street lamps, cobbled floors and clambering, flowered vines. One can see Josephine Baker stepping onstage here for an impromptu performance. The ceiling is a marriage of form and function. Built of sound-proofing and covered with little lights, it creates the illusion of a summer night sky. At least one patron called it a perfect cure for winter drear. The quality of the music featured is unquestionably high, with even “jam session” nights drawing rave reviews. The food is tasty and, along with the drinks, reasonably priced. Expect great music, fast service and people in jeans and shorts rubbing elbows with the more formally attired. With patrons from around the world, the common language here is jazz.

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websites

www.MAjAZZ.hU /HTML_MaJaZZ/aNGOL/akTUaLIS.HTM f Hungarian jazz is what you want to hear, know and love, then this site is your first stop. The Society itself was founded by a group of prominent musicians with the help of the Ministry of Hungarian Cultural Heritage. Over the years, it has evolved from focusing on the establishment of an acceptable performance venue for Budapest Society members to encompass assisting with the promotion and production of jazz concerts and festivals around the country. Hungarian jazz musicians from the Society who are performing internationally also get their due here. Artist's profiles, contact information and publicity photos to help you get to know the local luminaries of jazz are all on offer, as are some links to other organizations whose activities support the growth and success of the surging Hungarian jazz scene. Budapest jazz-scene literacy is a click away.

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arT: davId “MUCCI” FaSSeTT

etcetera

All thAt jAZZ GeT HIp TO THe TIp, daddY-O! helonius Monk once said, “I don’t know where jazz is going. Maybe it’s going to hell. You can’t make anything go anywhere. It just happens.” We now know it decided it was better to go to Budapest. The city’s jazz scene is always lively, but September 8th marks the start of what is unarguably among the most important festivals the city plays host to. the MOl bUDAPest jAZZ FestivAl (look for programs around the city, or visit www.trafo.hu/programs /1940) runs through the 12th at venues around the city, and delivers a staggering lineup of stars from Hungary, jamming with the best from around the globe. This year’s program is a great example of art imitating life, mirroring the EU presidency’s succession to Hungary following Spain and Belgium, respectively. the FestivAl theAtre opening on the 8th features Kálmán Oláh (piano), and his shades of flamenco jazz complemented by Spaniards Perico Sambeat (saxophone) and Marc Miralta (drums), with fellow Magyars Mátyás Szandai (double bass) and Ferenc Snétberger (guitar), and the renowned Belgian Steve Houben (saxophone). The second half of the evening features the amazing Belgian trumpeter Bert Joris with Hungary’s excellent Modern Art Orchestra, playing the compositions from both nations. The rest of the program is also not to be missed. Some unique experiences include collaboration by the humor-driven, vaudeville-inspired group Pulcinella (France) and the massively talented Dzsindzsa (Hungary) on the 9th. The 10th brings István Grencsó (sax and

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THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

flute) and his Grencsó Open Collective to the stage with American alto saxophonist and poet Lewis Jordan. The combination of the avante-garde stalwart Grencsó’s musicianship and Lewis’s pseudo-rap recitation should thrill. The unusual and interesting would include the appearance on the 11th of Germans Michael Schiefel (vocals) and Carsten Daerr (piano) with locals Miklós Lukács (dulcimer) and Mátyás Szandai (double bass), who play together in the Dresch Quartet and the Lukács Miklós Quintet. If you are in the mood for jazz in a more intimate venue, and some good eating as well, you can't beat iF CAFe's jAZZFOrUM bUDAPest (Ráday u. 19, +36 12 990 694). On the bill for September 9th, 10th and 11th (all shows 21:30) are Thea Soti Quartet, Tamarazene and Csongrádi Gábor Quintet, respectively. The city’s rich jazz scene remains hopping throughout the year. bUDAPest jAZZ ClUb (VIII, Múzeum utca 7, www.bjc.hu) features a wide array of jazz styles along and classical concerts on Sundays and free entry jam sessions on Fridays & Saturdays with visiting virtuosos, there is always a highcaliber night of music in their club and café. tAKe  ClUb (VI, Paulay Ede u. 2, www.take5.hu), a pub, offers a formidable lineup of performers but has also intentionally created a space in which one can carry on a chat or focus on the concert. Finally, COlUMbUs shiP jAZZ ClUb (V, Vigadó tér, harbour 4, www.columbuspub.hu/club), aboard Budapest’s sole permanently moored ship, hosts the Hungarian Jazz Club and guest musicians in an elegant, all-ages setting.

always borrow moNey from a pessImIsT. He woN'T expecT IT bacK.

“Hungarian state of mind: rapturous blues-nursing, jazzed up with rhapsodic manic-depression.” - Zsuzsanna Ardó

jazz

hard bop in budapest JaZZ IS a LIvING LaNGUaGe, aS MaddeNINGLY rHapSOdIC aS THe HUNGarIaN LaNGUaGe BUdapeST... ONe OF THe MOST BeaUTIFUL CITIeS IN eUrOpe, aNd THe aNCeSTraL HOMe OF SeveraL INFLUeNTIaL COMpOSerS. TONY BeLLUCCI ([email protected])

his legacy includes Franz Liszt, Zoltan Kodaly, and Gyorgy Ligeti, whose music was used extensively in Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyessy. I felt a special affinity for Bela Bartok’s music at about the same time that my interest in jazz began. This leads to the topic of my article; jazz on stage. The concert experience is fundamental to the enjoyment and appreciation of this, or any music. My initiation to jazz began in early adolescence. I was raised in my father’s nightclub, THE ROMAN ARCH, located across the street from the Atlantic Ocean in Asbury Park, New Jersey.

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At that time bands were often booked to perform from Wednesday thru Sunday. These bookings would sometimes extend for months, in order to allow the band to build a following. I often think what an anomaly this is today. My father was sailing against prevailing winds, as rock music was omnipresent.

“without the sophisticated, appreciative peoples of europe and Asia, jazz would be a dead art today. so much of American music from every genre has been thankfully preserved from television or radio broadcast in europe.” Our music was popular, but with arrangements by musicians schooled in everything from Broadway to jazz. Throughout the years, these musicians contributed to my musical appreciation. My uncle who immigrated from Naples, Italy, had a restaurant adjoining our club. A chef working there lent me a stack of Herbie Mann and John Coltrane records. Mr. Mann’s music failed to reach me. Coltrane’s music, however, made an impact. I did not really understand it, but I FELT it. At some point, I met an aspiring singer named Fred Farrell who was friends with band members performing at our club. Fred lived in the same apartment complex as my father and I, after my parent’s divorce. As a result of my interest, Fred brought me to RICHARD’S LOUNGE, a jazz club located in Lakehurst, N.J. (the site of the Hindenburg disaster). Richard Stein, the owner, was a drummer who had performed with Peter Nero. Richard brought top talent down from New York City to his club. At that time, clubs would have an area for under-age non-drinkers, and Richard had a sofa section for this purpose. This is where I initialW W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

ly sat with tea, and where my musical education really began. For a number of years, until Mr. Stein sold the club, I experienced some great musical situations. Chico Hamilton comes to mind, but foremost are two artists: Woody Shaw and David Liebman. Shaw was simply one of the great, and in my opinion last, of the trumpet innovators. I was privileged to bring my 1st girlfriend to Richard’s for the Steve Turre/Junior Cook Sextet featuring Shaw. Trombonist Turre has been a member of the Saturday Night Live Band for many years. He can be seen playing conch shells on the show, and I can remember him excitedly showing me these shells at Richard’s. I saw this band twice, once with David Liebman sitting in on tenor contributing a terrifying solo that resulted in the drummer’s ride cymbal collapsing off the bandstand. Later, I saw Shaw perform here in California. Dig Shaw’s reimagining of the march from Zoltan Kodaly’s HARY JANOS SUITE on Larry Young’s UNITY Blue Note record. David Liebman’s band LOOK OUT FARM are a special memory. I saw Lieb at Richard’s many times both during and after his tenure with Miles Davis. I witnessed his band’s metamorphosis from acoustic to electric instruments, returning to acoustic music toward’s the end of the band’s existence. Lookout Farm also toured Europe extensively during this time. Liebman witnessed Coltrane perform in N.Y.C. on dozens of occasions. The intensity of Lieb’s quartet was palpable, analogous to what Liebman himself experienced on Coltrane’s bandstand. Liebman’s music is part of that lineage, and I am grateful to have caught his fire. Without the sophisticated, appreciative peoples of Europe and Asia, this music would be a dead art today. So much of American music from every genre has been thankfully preserved for television or radio broadcast in Europe. These documents that have been stored sometimes for decades are only now being released on DVD or CD. As an example, I have just ordered the

new release MILES DAVIS-THE BERLIN CONCERT DVD from a 1969 European tour. For me, Davis’ playing that year is arguably at it’s most powerful apogee. One of my favourite recent jazz recordings is Ed Thigpen’s SCANTET #1. Thigpen died on February 24 this year, and had been living in Copenhagen since 1972. His drum work had been hailed throughout Europe, but he could not get arrested Stateside. I must also make mention of the superb audio quality of recordings that originate from Scandinavia. Stay Beautiful...

13

1 kapcsolatok

Megjátszós gének és hormonok úJ TeórIa a HÁZaSSÁGOk NeHéZSéGeIrőL éS a vÁLÁS OkaIróL. (bizonyítják ezt a növekvő számú házassági szerződések). Egyre több teória lát napvilágot a válás okaival kapcsolatban. Vannak, akik úgy gondolják, hogy a fő ok a városiasodás miatti elidegenedés, ami a kapcsolatokat is üresebbé és gyengébbé teszi, a mellett, hogy az együttmaradás sok esetben már nem olyan erős gazdasági kényszer. Érdekes felfedezés az is, hogy az emancipáció egy melléktermékeként a férfi szerepekben sikeres nők tesztoszteron szintje megnő, és két erős hormon nem fér meg egy családban. Mások úgy gondolják, hogy az emberi természetnek nem sajátja az egy személyhez kötött monogámia, és a fejlett társadalmakban az egyéni szabadság növekedésével a viselkedési modellek visszatérnek természetes állapotukhoz, az időnként partnerváltó monogámiához, illetve poligámiához. Sokan abban látják a fő problémát, hogy a társadalom nem nevel minket arra, hogyan legyünk jó házasok (nincs ilyen tantárgy az iskolákban, és jól működő modellt is keveset látnak a gyerekek maguk körül). Stb, stb, stb… MegjátsZós géNeK és hOrMONOK Sok esetben a gyerek miatt nem lehet jó döntést hozni, két rossz közül kell választani.

MI, vÁrOSBaN éLők SZINTe HeTeNTe HaLLUNk úJaBB vÁLÁSróL a köZveTLeN, vaGY TÁvOLI körNYeZeTüNkBeN. SZINTe MINdeNkINek vaN véLeMéNYe eZZeL a TéMÁvaL kapCSOLaTBaN... SZöveG éS FOTó: WavrIk GÁBOr hADZáK

Mára kevés nép maradt ősközösség közeli állapotban, néhány törzs az Amazonasnál, Pápua ÚjGuineában, az Északi Sarkvidéken, és elszórtan Afrikában. Ilyen ezer fős csoportot alkotnak Tanzániában a két millió éve nagyjából változatlan életformában élő Hadzák. Gyűjtögetnek, vadásznak, vándorolnak, nincs állattartás vagy növénytermesztés az életükben, és minimális a magántulajdon. Házassági szertartás sincs. Ha egy férfi és nő ugyanannál a tűznél alszanak egy ideig, párt alkotnak. Sokuk néhány évente partnert vált, de a váltások

„...A nők ugyan azt teszik a gyerekért, mint a férfiak a szexért: megjátsszák magukat. ez persze legtöbbször nem tudatos színészkedés, hanem a hormonok és gének által vezérelt...” között monogámiában élnek. A férfiak vadásznak, a nők gyűjtögetnek és a csecsemőket nevelik. A nagyobb gyerekekre a táborban maradt öregasszonyok vigyáznak. Persze a Hadzáknál is előfordul a „házastársi” vita, de ha ezek túl gyakoriak vagy komoly az elégedetlenség, szakítás lesz a vége. bONObO-K

Az állatok közül a Bonobo (egy csimpánz faj) áll legközelebb genetikailag az emberhez. Poligám csoTHINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

portokat alkotnak, és nem csak szaporodás céljából élnek szexuális életet, hanem konfliktuskezelésre és szimpla örömszerzésre is használják az erotikát. Változatos, az emberhez hasonlatos szexuális életet élnek, így például, előfordul náluk az orális szex, vagy a misszionárius pozíció is, a női orgazmusnak pedig néha látható jelei vannak. stAtisZtiKA

Magyarországon körülbelül 45 ezer új házasságot kötnek egy évben, erre nagyjából 25 ezer válás jut. Ez a válási arány (56%!) hasonló Európában és ÉszakAmerikában. Ez persze a nagy átlag. Köztudott, hogy vidéken kevesebb a válás, mint a nagyvárosokban, és az is, hogy a mai fiatalok könnyebben válnak, mint az idősebbek. Tehát a fiatalabb városi populációt nézve a válási arány 65-70%-os, csak minden harmadik házasság marad együtt ebben a rétegben. Sok a kényszerből összetartott frigy, ahol vagy a gyerekek miatt, vagy anyagi okokból nem tudnak, nem akarnak válni. Ez azt jelenti, hogy a városi fiatalok és középkorúak körében tízből maximum 1-2 házasság az, amely „normális” boldogsági szintet nyújt. Nem csoda, hogy közülük sokan úgy gondolják, hogy ugyan azon házastárssal leélni egy egész életet nem az ember „normál állapota”. teóriáK

A nagy többség azonban, még mindig hisz a házasság intézményében (bizonyítják ezt a nyáron előre teljesen befoglalt házasságkötő termek), még ha nem is oly elszántan, mint mondjuk 100 évvel ezelőtt

„a dolgoK Nem válTozNaK, csupáN másKéNT láTjuK őKeT.” - carlos casTaNeda

Egy új elmélet egészíti ki a fenti teóriákat. Lényege, hogy a nők ugyan azt teszik a gyerekért (a szülésért), mint a férfiak a szexért: megjátsszák magukat. Ez a megjátszás persze legtöbbször nem egy ördögien kitervelt, tudatos színészkedés, hanem a hormonok és gének által vezérelt toleráns és figyelmes viszonyulás a kiszemelt partnerhez. Ezt teszi a férfival azt, hogy egy átlagnál is gyengébb romantikus komédiára beüljön partnerével és nevessen, hogy hetente vegyen neki virágot, vagy, hogy már napokkal előre készüljön a három hónapos évfordulóra. Később a virág csak ünnepre, vagy bocsánat kérésre érkezik, és simán elfelejtődik a 7 éves házassági évforduló. Ugyan ez a hatás teszi a nőkkel, hogy könnyedén mosolyogjanak partnerük férfias gusztustalanságain, sexisen öltözzenek fel egy egyszerű eseményre is, vagy hogy úgy főzzék meg a lecsót, ahogy azt párjuk szereti. A szexis öltözék később elmaradozik, és egy rossz helyen hagyott büdös zokni is komoly veszekedést eredményezhet. AMiKOr A PrObléMáK KeZDőDNeK

Az igazi probléma akkor kezdődik, amikor az újszülött érkezése utáni eufória a gyerek körülbelül fél-egy éves korára elmúlik. Ekkorra a férfi párja iránt érzett szexuális vágya már legtöbbször nem olyan erős, mint régebben, és a feleség is úgy érzi, „ő leszállította azt, amire az anyatermészet kijelölte”, és ez határtalan magabiztosságot ad neki. A gének és hormonok már nem torzítják extra toleranciával és figyelmességgel el a házastársak valós természetét, ekkorra derülnek ki a valós különbségek a két fél személyiségében. A kérdés csak, az, hogy mekkorák ezek a különbségek, mert szerencsés esetben lehetnek elfogadhatóak, de néha lehetnek meglepően nagyok. A különbségek nagy részét persze át lehet hidalni, de ehhez szükséges mindkét fél erős akarata és kitartása, és a legtöbb szakember egyet ért abban is, hogy a házastársaknak jó problémamegoldó és kommunikációs készségre van szükségük.

1 sweet revenge

just Desserts dON’T TrY aNd pLaY a pLaYer, darLING...

Communications

Picking up hungarian Every English speaker should know a few handy “How sweet it was, that final toast to these terrible women...”

phrases in Hungarian. Here are some ones we think

THIS WaS NOT MY SCeNe. vÁCI UTCa WaS, IN FaCT, Far FrOM THe rOMkOCSMa, Or “rUINS BarS” aNd CLUBS I FreQUeNTed. I Had JUST a COUpLe daYS LeFT IN peST, aNd IT WaS TIMe TO FINd kNICk-kNaCkS FOr THe FOLkS BaCk HOMe...

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“Szia! Jó napot kivánok!” a little brunette said, all smiling and friendly, looking straight into my eyes with her baby blues. Caught off-guard, I stammered, “Uhhh…”

blond nodded, “Yeah! Yeah! We all go, okay?”. I give Dave the ‘Look’ and he shrugged. I smiled back at the shark on my arm and nodded, “Let's!”

• Are YOU MArrieD? To a female/male: Házas vagy? (HAA-zash VADJ?)

I slow-walked every god-awful tourist restaurant on the utca, checking menus, discussing the meals on offer while looking for the priciest place. We took pictures of everything and the girls, too. After two hours of pointlessness, Anita sighed, annoyed. “I am so thirsty,” she said. “Maybe we should go have a drink at the bar back there?” Krisztina nodded, looking in Aussie's eyes. “Please?”

• CAN i bUY YOU A DriNK? Meghívhatlak egy italra? (MEG-heev-hot-luck EDJ ee-tal-ra?)

“Oh, English!” she said. “Good afternoon!” “Good afternoon,” I said, smiling back, watching her eyes narrow as she shifted her hip a bit. She tells me she’s from some village I didn’t quite catch, and wants to know where Szent Istvan Bazilika is in a very practiced tone. “We wish to see it.”

It was obviously their employer's. Black glass on the outside, entry set back and no outside seating. “Well, after a nice meal we will…” I said. “Can we treat you ladies to a nice dinner?” I dropped the name of a pricey hotel restaurant nearby and asked them if they liked caviar. They nodded eagerly in agreement.

She’s shorter and more confident than her friend, and all curves in the right places. The other is long, lean, blonde and green eyed, tanned perfectly and wielding her cigarette like a meastro’s baton. Anita and Krisztina, they called themselves.

We were seated and I ordered the most expensive appetizers, entrees, addon sauces and garnishes from the menu. The girls we’re excited when the meal came and we dove in. Before the main dish was completed, I kicked Dave on the shin.

Ah yes, the infamous Budapest ‘Drink girls’. Their job is luring the stupid, drunk and unwary tourists into bars where a few drinks will cost them upwards of a thousand Euros, collected by steroidaddled, hostage-taking thugs at the nearest ATM. We were not to be such prey. I perused her map and played along, pretending to “figure out” streets and directions. “Maybe we can go together!” she said, smiling toothily, hungrily. The script was being perfectly played out. The W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

• whAt is YOUr NAMe? Hogy hívnak? (HODJ HEEV-nakh?) • YOU Are verY PrettY. To a female: Nagyon csinos vagy. (NA-djon CHEE-nosh VADJ.) To a male: Jól nézel ki. (YOL NAY-zal KEY.)

JOe BOdIa

dragged my mate Aussie Dave (a giant of a man from Sydney) to share in the awfulness of selecting token offerings for slack-jawed parents and begging nephews and nieces back home. I considered how insulting a cane with a cycle bell, whiskey flask and various attachments might be to my father, when they approached…

you should find quite handy.

“Excuse me ladies...” I said to the smiling Anita “I need to use the toilet.” As I stood, Dave piped in “Me too...” I took Anita’s hand in mine and kissed it before bowing a bit and standing aside. Grabbing the glass of expensive red, I raised my glass. “To new friends,” I toasted. The girls clinked glasses back, all smiles. Anita looked smug as Aussie D and I excused ourselves and headed in the direction of the WC, neatly slipping out the lobby exit onto the street and away into the night, leaving them to enjoy their just desserts with a taste of their own medicine...

• COMe, sit bY Me. Nem ülsz mellém? (NEM uls MEL-laim?) • YOU hAve verY beAUtiFUl: eYes/liPs/legs/breAsts. Nagyon szép a: szemed / ajkad / lábad / melled. (NAdjon SAPE A: SE-med / AYA-khad / LAA-bad / MEL-led) • i liKe YOUr FrieND tOO. To a female/male: Tetszik a barátod is. (THET-sikh A BAra-toed ISH) • DO YOU wANNA sPeND the Night At MY PlACe? Akarsz nálam aludni? (A-khars NAA-lam A-lud-nee?) • KeeP DOiNg it. Folytasd! (FOY-tashd!) • slOw DOwN. Lassíts. (LASH-sheech.) • CAN i see YOU AgAiN tOMMOrrOw? Találkozhatnánk holnap is? (TA-lal-KOZ-hot-nank HOLE-nop ISH?) • i reAllY lOve YOU. Tényleg szeretlek. (TANE-leg Se-reth-lekh.) • i’ll Never FOrget YOU. Soha nem felejtelek el. (SHOW-ha NEM Fe-lej-te-lek EL.)

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

viNOMANiA OeNOpHILeS IN HUNGarY Have MaNY reaSONS TO reJOICe aNd reveL THIS MONTH! FraNCIS prUeTT

eptember 8th marks the start of the 19th bUDAPest iNterNAtiONAl wiNe AND ChAMPAgNe FestivAl (www.aborfesztival.hu) at Buda Castle (Vár,

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1011 Budapest). If you are new to wine and want to learn more about wine in general and Hungarian wine history specifically, this is a great place to start. Organizers promise to deliver not only a wide selection of Hungarian wines, but have also chosen to feature Carpathian Basin vintners in general. They are keeping the names and national origins of invited special guests close to their vests, but divulge that several new wines will debut from abroad.

“Discover the world of wine, sunshine, beaches and fun, it’s just a click away!”

GrooveTravelers.com

the big tAstiNg of the best Hungarian Chardonnay wines takes place from September 14th to the 28th in the wine-chapel of bOrKáPOlNA, a historical winecellar 5 minutes from Heroes Square. For 2 weeks you can taste and vote for nearly 30 kinds of Chardonnay. Entrance: 2500 HUF, from which 2000 HUF can be used to purchase any of the tasted wines (H-1071 Budapest, Damjanich u. 52 +361 343 5258, +36 30 941 2838 www.borkapolna.hu info@borkapolna .hu). Another unique option, and a favourite among travelers, is the FAUst wiNe CellAr in Buda Castle (I. Hess András tér 1-3, Tel: 36 1 8896873). Reaching the cellar, a part of the labyrinth system under the castle itself, includes a bonus: visitors will see a restored Dominican monastery and cloister from the 13th century. A number of tasting packages are available, but reservations are required (www.budapest-tourist-guide.com) or via phone. With zero-tolerance alcohol laws here in Hungary, a relaxed bus tour for a day will allow the savvy to savour more and worry less. There are numerous tours available from a number of shops, clubs and travel agencies. In the realm of wine-themed event planning and tours, however, the veritable king of resources has to be wiNetiMe (II. Várfok u. 8, Tel: +36 17 869 161). Check their website to find regularly scheduled tours accepting reservations (www.winetime.hu), order a custom tour, or even organize a wine-soaked hen or stag party. If you are looking to socialize, they offer a wine club along with special one-off events and dinners.

Also returning will be the Maltese Charity Order of Hungary’s wine auction, this year benefitting the victims of the particularly devastating weather 2010 saw. If you had planned to take in the concurrent Jazz Festival (see our article on page 12), then fret not. Jazz is scheduled at the castle, and careful planning will allow connoisseurs to keep the music flowing with the wine. If you miss the festival or simply want more tastings, then it is practically a requirement that you visit the preeminent experts at the bUDAPest wiNe sOCietY (I. Batthyány u. 59). Check in on Saturdays (Tel: 06 1 2120262) for occasional free samples at their tastings, which are scheduled to resume this month. Their Hungarian catalogue is exhaustive, to be sure. However, their international offerings also impress in breadth and quality whether one is a local seeking something adventurous or a traveler in search of the familiar to balm a bit of homesickness. Their website (www.bortarsasag.hu) features online ordering and delivery within the European Union with the very welcome added touch of a gift service. Visitors in the wine business from abroad may also find their Business-to-Business services of interest as well. But Wine Time is not the only player in this field. Longer tours of wine country are on offer at sPeCiAl tOUrs (III, Orlo utca 26, ph 1 242-6558). Their tours, lasting as long as 8 days, integrate stops at wineries and cellars with educational programming and Hungarian cultural site visits. More a travel agency than a wine tour company, they nonetheless seem to have specialized in the genre to great effect. Reservations can be made via phone or on their web site (www.specialtours.hu). The latter method allows one to choose the type of room and any other special arrangements to be made, such as vegetarian meals and bicycle rentals or extra nights in Budapest and transportation to and from the airport for international visitors. Egészségédre!

19 industry

CAN wiNe sAve hUNgArY? Illustration: Tyson

NeW CONTraCTS WITH aMerICaN MeGaSTOreS HINT aT BeTTer daYS aHead... In 1989 when the Communism regime finally collapsed, Hungary was able to modernize its infrastructure and methods, and attract needed investment for its wine regions. Most notably in Tokaj, where the world famous dessert wine, Tokaji Aszu is produced. Prominent investors like British wine authority Hugh Johnson helped formed the Royal Tokaji Wine Company, JeanMichel Arcaute of Chateau Clinet in Bordeaux found Chateau Pajzos, and Spain’s most famous wine estate, Vegas Sicilia established Oremus. These companies brought tremendous growth into the region even prompting what’s being dubbed as the “Tokaji renaissance.” If Tokaj is any model, the country’s wines can be expected to undergo a major revolution in which Hungary’s future for producing wines is vast. But before this can happen, Hungary must overcome several obstacles. Over forty years of Communist rule which favoured quantity over quality has left the country’s wine industry in shambles. Hungarian wine makers are struggling to recover from the destruction of the past while coping with the changing developments into the future.

DIY

Making hungarian red wine at home It does not matter if a person lives in the countryside or not for producing homemade Hungarian red wine. Anyone who is interested in making wine at home can adopt the Hungarian process of wine making and obtain the Tokay wine. Choose the grapes that are harvested in November and wait until they shrivel. You know they are shriveled when they look like raisins, but not that small. The grapes need to be picked individually and shriveled in a bucket. Save carefully all the clean grapes. They need to be pressed into a paste. Press the clean grapes, save all the liquid and add yeast in order for the fermentation to begin. Let the paste and the fermented wine age separately for at least five years. After that, you need to mix them together. If the resulted wine is not so sweet, aging for a longer period of time might resolve this. — Alice Genes

Tokaji - A Sweet Wine

Noble rot and furmint Many of the world’s wines don’t hold a candle to the Hungarian varieties...

WITH THe vaLUe OF THe FOrINT pLUNGING, INCreaSING deBT IN THe BILLIONS aNd FaILed NeGOTIaTIONS WITH THe INTerNaTIONaL MONeTarY FUNd, IT SeeMS THaT HUNGarY IS ON THe verGe OF a Greek-STYLe FINaNCIaL CrISIS.

There is also a significant lack of marketing and promotional initiatives especially at tapping into more wealthy nations. In North American, most people are not aware of Hungarian wines with Tokaji being the exception. The other regions, though still producing good quality wines, are little known outside of Hungary - testimony to the claims that the country's wines are being under sold.

SUZaNNe UrpeCZ

o what is a small landlocked country with a population of just over 10.5 million people suppose to do? Surely, there is no easy answer but there is something that Hungary can do to boast its livelihood which involves producing one of the world’s oldest goods.

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Many industry experts believe that Hungary could be poised to become a major contender on the international market for wines. This could prove to be a very valuable asset to Hungary’s overall economy. In many instances, wine has helped support a country's growing economy such as in South Africa where it has boosted the national GDP and created a steady stream of employment. It can also provide diversification, by making a country less reliant on traditional bases, such as agriculture or W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

mining which are subject to commodity price fluctuations. This is particularly significant for rural communities like those in Hungary which make up the majority of the country. Hungary’s wine culture dates back more than 2,000 years and is accredited with being one of the first countries to implement standards for winemaking. Today, there are 22 geographically distinct wine regions across the country, which include both indigenous and international grapes varieties. More than 60 percent of total wine production is white, although red wines are growing more popular and their production is increasing. Hungary’s diverse climate as well as its location makes it an ideal place for winemaking.

Hungary produces an average of 3.5 million hectoliters (about 92 million gallons) of wine each year but only about 20 percent of that wine is exported, mostly to other European countries. This is truly unfortunate as so much can be achieved in Hungary’s wine industry with proper leadership and direction. Wine isn’t Hungary’s only prospect for obtaining economic growth and stability. However, it can lead the way towards what for centuries this nation has been seeking – the ability to be independent and self-sufficient. There is a lot of potential here but it’s up to Hungary to seize it. SuzanneUrpeczisafreelancewriterwithabackground inculinaryarts.Sheisthecreatorandeditorof“The HungarianGirl”,awebsiteaboutCentralandEastern Europeantravel,food,andwine.

Noble rot did not have a part in making tojaki until the mid-1600s. The legends about grapes and noble rot in this area all have to do with the Turks attacking, causing a delay in harvesting the grapes. During the delay, the grapes developed noble rot, or had the fungus botrytis cinerea grow on them. The resulting grape, called aszu in Hungry, has a high concentration of sugars. Only four types of grapes can be used to make to Tokaji: yellow muscat, oremus, furmint and harslevelu. Furmint grapes are the most frequently used grape used in tokaji wines There are several reasons why furmint grapes work well with noble rot. First, as furmint grapes become ripe, their skins become thinner, allowing evaporation that leads to a higher sugar content. Then these grapes grow a second skin that prevents the grape from rotting. Furmint grapes stay on the vine until they develop noble rot, further concentrating their sugars. Conditions that enable the creation of aszu grapes do not happen frequently, with roughly 3 vintages every 10 years. Not only is the area where the grapes for these wines limited, the weather conditions must be right. This makes aszu wines rare. This is not to say that the grapes that are not aszu go to waste. They are used to make other kinds of wines. — Laura Evans

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

20

HIT LIST

Amy’s New line

Photo: Attila Szvacsek

Being that Amy Winehouse has a style all her own, will she be able to convince the world to purchase her clothes? She’s hooked up with British Sportswear Designer Fred Perry to create a 17 piece clothing and accessory collection. Winehouse, who is currently working on her third album, told reporters “We’ve been working on it for a while and it’s great to see it finally come to fruition.”

hUNOr CitY biKe

You can expect clothing such as polo shirts, jackets, capri pants, and dresses from this “punk inspired edge” line. The company's managing director John Flynn added, “We have had a great relationship with Amy over the years as she has been a loyal fan and supporter. Amy’s sense of style and attitude to music and fashion pervades through this collaboration. We hope her fans and our fans will feel the same way.”

The only thing cooler than riding around town on a bike, is riding around town on a bike made in the country you live in. This is all good and well for a person living in China, where most affordable bikes are (poorly) made these days, so imagine my surprise when I popped into Obi’s looking for some wheels and found this gem. Called the hUNOr CitY biKe, named in honour of one of the founding Huns, this bike is a real head turner at the traffic stops. With a 26” wheel size, the affordable price of 28,000 HUF and a low centre of gravity, it’s a great way to see the outlying areas of the city, and it comes with a back rack and front and rear lights with generator standard, not to mention a zinggy bell. From what I can tell, it only comes in hot red or cool silver, as they don’t seem to have a website for the manufacturer, in typically Hungarian understatement. If you’ve gotta get around town and can’t stand metro controllers or dishonest taxi’s, biking is the only way to go! — j beNet

BOUTIQUe HOTeLS

wO r K s PAC e s

escape to budapest

whether a visitor or a resident, every now and then you just need to get out of your house and enjoy the good life... Everyone needs and escape, and staying in a boutique hotel offers customers the chance to spend the night in a place with its own unique character and the best levels of service, often so good that you don’t even have to travel to another city to enjoy it. One such lovely place here in Budapest is located on Karoly Kamermayer, a very old square in the historical downtown, named after the first mayor of Budapest. The building has a lot of character, being built in 1892, and there are a total of just 15 rooms, making them the perfect escape for lovebirds and those hosting illicit liaisons. The Gerlóczy rooms have a historical feel with luxurious accommodation, being newly renovated, be sure to request a room with a clawfoot tub for maximum enjoyment. When not enjoying the comforts of very nicely furnished rooms, you can play the Budapester downstairs at the Gerloczy Café, a very popular meeting place among people of Budapest, so if you're looking to spend a weekend away from work, or just want to take time out and see somewhere else and relax, then a stay at the Gerlóczy Hotel might be just what you need, and at 80 Euros a night, you don’t have to bust the bank to enjoy your escape.

Business Loffice workspace Better than a cafe or bar!

— 1052 Budapest, V. Gerlóczy u. 1, T: (36) (1) 501-4000, F: (36) (1) 501-400, email: [email protected], Reservation: [email protected], www.gerloczy.hu

Budaside Tunnel Tours Escape the heat or rain underground!

A labyrinth of caves and tunnels span for miles under Castle Hill, about two hundred known caves and you can visit four of the most extensive and spectacular ones. Formed by thermal actions and many centuries of human activity, (most recently used as an air-raid shelter during World War II, with room for thens of thousands of people!). lAbYriNth OF bUDA CAstle (Budavári Labirintus, I District: Úri utca 9, www.labirintus.com) is our favourite, stretching for over six very humid miles beneath the streets and buildings of the ancient Castle District of Buda. The aged walls and arches really are something amazing to behold.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

crowded elevaTors smell dIffereNT To mIdgeTs.

Let’s face it, running a business is expensive, and one of the greatest expenses if the rent on office space. And what good is it really, unless you’re using it 24 hours a day? Well, now there’s an alternative; Loffice, a flexible office space for entrepreneurs, freelancers, and assorted corporate types who want to work without worrying about the overhead. Built in a stylish loft in the heart of Budapest, this green workspace is cycle friendly and alternative energy powered, and with pocket friendly prices starting at around 700 forints per hour, you and coworkers can network with other professionals, hold business meetings and client presentations, there’s even enough space to hold an exhibition! Prices include WiFi, coffee and printing services, making it a great alternative to working out of your home office or presenting in some smoky cafe or bar. — www.loffice.hu

tűzraktér From little acorns big oak trees grow... Tűzraktér Independent Cultural Centre (backed up by the Art Sector Foundation) first opened its doors way back in of June in 2005, giving new life to a previously abandoned 10,000 square meter factory building in Budapest's Tuzolto street. As an open cultural space, they organize programmes on a daily basis, a programme which includes a very wide spectrum of fine and performed arts.

Fleurt- virágbolt, mely fiesta a szemnek Ha BeLépüNk a FLeUrT vIrÁGBOLT BaZILIka köZeLI üZLeTéBe, aZT LÁTHaTJUk, HOGY MINdeNrőL „SüT” a MINőSéG. IGéNYeS a BOLT BeLSő kIaLakíTÁSa, GYöNYörűek a vIrÁGOk, HeLYBeN vaNNak a prOFI vIrÁGköTők, akIk eGYBeN kedveSeN éS HaTékONYaN SZOLGÁLNak kI. SZöveG éS FOTó: WavrIk GÁBOr

A

vállalkozást 7 évvel ezelőtt alapította két sikeres közgazdász, azzal a céllal, hogy kreatív tehetségüket is megmozgassák egy szívükhöz közel álló üzleti vállalkozással. Az ötlet az volt, hogy olyan enteriőrbe illeszkedő minimalista virágdekorációkat áruljanak, amelyek még nem nagyon voltak akkoriban a magyar piacon. Miután egyikük kiszállt az üzletből más elfoglaltságai miatt, Józsa Judit vitte tovább a boltot. Tehetségének és kitartásának köszönhetően (amihez hozzájárult lakberendező végzettsége és közgazdasági tapasztalata is) a cég mára egy 100 milliós éves árbevételű, 9 fős csapatot foglalkoztató vállalkozássá nőtte ki magát. Szerteágazó tevékenységük mutatja, hogy milyen rugalmasan reagálnak a piaci igényekre. A klasszikus virágbolton és webes virágküldő szolgálaton kívül foglalkoznak iroda, rendezvény, lakás, esküvői és szálloda — dekorációval is. (Olyan hotelekkel állnak például partneri kapcsolatban, mint az Intercontinental, New York Palace, Kempinski, Le Meridien, Marriott). 2007-ben elnyerték kisbolt kategóriában az „Arany Virág” díjat. A minőség náluk nem feltétlenül jelent drága termékeket, mindenki megtalálhatja a neki való árfekvést. Weboldalukon fotókkal illusztrálják az egyes megrendelhető csokrokat jól látható árcédulákkal. Külön tetszett, hogy az egyes csokrok kategóriákba vannak rendezve, mint: „Bocsánatot kérek!”, „Szeretlek”, „Részvétem”, stb... és a bokréta céljának megfelelően vannak kialakítva az egyes kategóriákban az alkotások.

Woof! Budadogs Rescue dogs need foster homes!

If you love animals, three vet students from Norway have set up a project called bUDADOgs where they rescue dogs from the city pound on the euthanasia list (illatosut.hu) and other dogs who desperately need help, find foster homes for them and eventually re-home them abroad (mostly to Scandinavia). These dogs are healthy and make perfect family pets with a bit of love and kindness. The more foster homes they find, the more dogs which can be rescued, so please check out the Budadogs site, and let them know if you can host or even adopt! — http://bricksite.com/budadogs, www.budadogs.blogspot.com

W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

They also work as a creative centre by providing opportunities to as many creative projects as they can. Musicians and theatre companies use the space for reversals; artists can create studios in the building to explore their visions, secure that the management is constantly trying to keep these opportunities free, or as cheap as possible, like their entry fees. Due to these two main functions, the Cultural Centre is a place where cultural products are not only shown, but created. But it’s not just art for art’s sake, they are also active in the field of education, mostly art laboratories where artists can educate children, and adults as well. One of their goals is to create programmes and activities for youth with a less-privileged background. Thanks to its great publicity, Tűzraktér became a meeting point of young people and a scene for contemporary experimental arts. The pieces of art or the performances organized by their teams have received great attention from the general public. All organizers work as volunteers, and have managed to have exhibitions of hundreds of artists, including collaborations with the Hungarian Academy of Arts, theatre shows, contemporary dance performances, concerts from jazz, world music, to blues and punk, musicians from all over the world, circus shows, artistic performances, literature evenings, academic presentations, festivals, fashion shows, etc. Hosting artists from around the world as well, they promote cross-cultural exchanges and exhibitions. And unlike many artspaces, Tűzraktér also hosts a baby-mummy room for artists with children. The project was mostly for young people but it welcomed people of any age. Children, women, people with a less privileged background, minorities and any kind of disability, immigrants were all involved. Tűzraktér is not a building, but an intention, one that can affiliate parallel projects, and cooperate with different kinds of initiatives in Hungary as well as on the international scene. From 2008, cooperating with the local government of the 6th district of Budapest, they were given the right to occupy another disused building (Hegedű utca 3, 1061 Budapest, Hungary). At the moment, in the Art lab part of Tűzraktér, they provide offices or workshops for more than 350 persons, mostly artists, but including civil organisations too. The Art laboratory is functioning every day, a real community with different people, groups, civil organizations who collaborate with each other and become part of the life of the center. The users of the center help in improving it, and they make a lot of cultural programmes at the place. They must be active but also the organiser group of the center is helping them with their universal needs, problems and projects. The users support the center with the overhead of the center. This way the Art lab is self-supporting and hopefully with other supports it can be a long life system, proving that great things grow from little seeds.

22

MedIa JUNkY FILM A TETOVÁLT LÁNY (dán-svéd-német krimi, 152 perc)

Az utóbbi fél év talán egyik legjobb filmje. Nagyon izgalmas, jól megírt krimi, úgyhogy a történetről hiba is lenne bármit elárulni, a legjobb úgy beülni erre a mozira, ha semmit nem tudunk a cselekményről.

COllAPse, the MOvie From the acclaimed director of American Movie, comes this portrait of radical thinker Michael Ruppert, a former Lost Angeles police officer turned independent reporter, (who predicted the current financial crisis in his self-published newsletter, From the Wilderness, at a time when most Wall Street and Washington analysts were still in denial). Sitting in a room that looks like a bunker, Ruppert recalls his career as a radical thinker and shares his visions of the crises humanity is facing. Drawing from the same news reports and data available to anybody with an Internet connection, and is especially passionate about the issue of “peak oil,” a concern raised by scientists since the seventies that the world is running out of fossil fuel. For example, did you know that there are 10 calories of hydrocarbon energy in every calorie of food consumed in the industrialised world? Think of fertilisers, pesticides, transport, packaging, farming machines, etc. His apocalyptic vision of the future is haunting, spanning the crises in economics, energy, environment and what will come unless we as humans evolve a new social model. He calls for a change, as Communism, Socialism, Capitalism, are all outdated concepts based on the assumption that there are infinite resources available on earth. Want to know how bad it is? Take a look at Derivatives: In Sept. 2008, there were over $700 trillion of derivatives in notional value. Totalling far more than all the money in the world! Collapse, aside from being a stark reminder that a recovery will just return us to the same position, is also a portrait of a loner. Ruppert, standing up for his beliefs despite fierce opposition, has sacrificed a lot to get his message out, which is nothing less than the collapse of industrial civilisation itself. www.megavideo.com/?v=GE7

A dán rendezőnek, Niels Arden Oplernek ez az első nemzetközi nagyközönség előtt komoly marketinggel bemutatott filmje, bár egy korábbi filmjével már berlini filmfesztivál díjas volt. Az 50 éves svéd Michael Nyqvist remekül alakítja a férfi főszerepelőt, a gyönyörű Naomi Rapace, pedig autentikusan játssza az „agyonvarrt” és piercingelt lányt, ami nem véletlen, ugyanis fiatalkorában punk volt. A film forgatókönyvét a svéd Stieg Larsson 1.5 millió példányban eladott bestselleréből írta két fiatal dán forgatókönyvíró, és remekre sikeredett. Az operatőri munka is kiváló, gyönyörűek a

borús képek, Skandináviát egészen új szemszögből láttatják. Végre egy krimi, ahol nem a túl sűrű snittváltásokkal, túlpörgetett irreális cselekménnyel és idegesítő hangeffektekkel próbálják a feszültséget növelni, hanem maga a cselekmény olyan izgalmas, hogy leköt. Így a 152 perc úgy múlik el, mintha másfél óra lenne. A történetvezetés viszonylagos lassúsága egyértelműen pozitívuma a filmnek, szükség volt már egy ilyenre a mostani krimik közhelyes és egy kaptafára épült

A legjobb biciklis blog 2010 Felüdítő érzés olvasgatni a „Cycle chick” című blogot (www.cyclechick.blog.hu), melynek jelmondata: „stílusos bringások, bringás stílusok”. A szinte naponta frissülő olvasók által beküldött biciklis képeken és bejegyzéseken kívül információkat találhatunk itt mindenfajta bringás eseményről és programról, és sok más klikkelni való is akad. Ilyen például egy video egy biciklis divatbemutatóról, vagy egy lírai klipp a téli Budapesten biciklizés nehézségeiről. Nem csoda, hogy a Goldenblog2010 szavazásán a kategóriájában nevezett 400 blogból bekerült a legjobbak közé. Ajánlom bárkinek, jelenlegi és jövőbeli bringásoknak egyaránt.

formai kelléktára után. Az utóbbi időszak hollywoodi filmtermése tele van nagyon gyenge forgatókönyvekkel (hiába kiváló az operatőri, színészi munka, vagy a speciális effekt), ami lehet, hogy annak köszönhető, hogy amikor a mostani filmek születtek, akkoriban sztrájkoltak az amerikai forgatókönyvírók. Eddig minden ismerősömnek tetszett a film, az IMDB 10-ből 9 pontot adott rá, úgyhogy nyugodtan ajánlom bárkinek, aki szereti a jó krimit. — Gábor Wavrik

C i N e M A D i r e CtO r Y belvárosI mozI — 6720 Szeged, Vaszy Viktor tér 3, Tel: (62) 543 185; 543 186, www.belvarosimozi.hu

bem mozI – Margit krt. 5/b, II district, Trams: 4, 6, Margit utca stop, Tel: (62) 316 8708, http://bemmozi.blogspot.com

campoNa palace cINema – Nagytétényi út 3745, XXII district, bus 3 to Nagytétény, Tickets: (62) 999 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu cINema cITy csepel plaza – 1121 Budapest, Rákóczi Ferenc út 154-170 (Csepel Plaza), Tel: (62) 425 8111, www.cinemacity.hu cINema cITy Új udvar – 1032 Budapest, Bécsi út 38-44 (Új Udvar Mall), Tel: (62) 437 8383, www.cinemacity.hu cINema európa – 1074 Budapest, Rákóczi út 82, Tel: (62) 322 5419, www.europamozi.freeweb.hu cINema művész – Művész Mozi, 1063 Teréz körút 30, Metro 1, Trams: 4, 6 station/stop Oktogon, Tel: (62) 332 6726, www.artmozi.hu cINema pusKIN – Puskin Mozi, Kossuth Lajos utca 18, Metro 2 station Astoria, Metro 3 station Ferenciek tere, Tel: (62) 429 6080, www.artmozi.hu cIrKó-gejzír – Balassi Bálint út 15-17, V district, Trams: 4,6, Margaret Bridge, Tram 2 Jászai Mari tér terminus, Tel: (62) 269 0904, www.cirkofilm.hu corvIN budapesT fIlmpaloTa – Corvin köz 1, VIII district, Metro 3 station Ferenc körút, Tram: 4, Tram: 6 stop Üllői út, Tickets: (62) 459 5050, Film info: (62) 459 5059, www.corvin.hu

duNa plaza Hollywood mulTIplex —

read Or dIe!

economics, happiness and Optimism

if you are tired of reading all the negative news in the newspaper, and watching all the economic doom and gloom in the cable tv media, then boy do i have a decent book to recommend to you! The Rational Optimist - How Prosperity Evolves is written by Matt Ridley, a very knowledgeable scientist who has spent a lifetime studying human civilization, societies, and evolution. He's discovered that the rich actually are happier, but not by much, and suggests that if you are 10-times as rich, you are not ten-times as happy. Nevertheless you are somewhat happier overall. “ We should judge wealth not only by money in the bank, but rather we should be also counting the benefits received,” and he explains that if you get free health care, what is the relative value of that? If you get a housing allowance, or are fortunate enough to rent from a landlord under rent control, what is the benefit of that, and how does that attribute to your standard of living, or quality of life. The book has many themes, it seems to discuss similar issues to “ The World is Flat” and “ Tipping Point” and even a little “ Black Swan” and since it is written by Matt Ridley you know he comes from a evolutionary perspective, and is well studied in human historical migration. He speaks specifically to the reality of billions living with very little, even challenged for water, and the number of people living in less than a dollar a day. He shows how religious people seem to do better with regards to commerce and capitalism - fairness in buying and selling. He appears to be a capitalist as well, showing how capitalism has done quite well for lifting people out of poverty. He shows how it is the mission of human beings to build a better life for himself and his family, and in this quest we should see future optimism for ecology, economics, and happiness. Improvements in modern first world environment are extremely better today, than they were 50 years ago. As people have more money, they tend to demand a better quality of air and water, and food. And as the society does more industrialization and commerce in the beginning – things are problematic to a point, then there is a shift. He discusses Chinese Cities, and Mexico City and India, and how in the future they will clean up their acts, cities, and environment and Matt, shows how this is a natural progression. Matt Ridley gave a great talk in NY City at the New York Academy of Science for Book CSPAN2 TV in May, which you can view on YouTube. — Lance Winslow, www.worldthinktank.net THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

Váci út 178, XIII district, M3 Metro: Gyöngyösi utca station, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu HuNNIa – 1073 Budapest, Erzsébet körút 26, Tel: (62) 321 7580 KossuTH palace mozI & bar – 1132 Budapest, Váci út 14, Tel: (62) 467 4260

lurdy Ház Hollywood mulTIplex – Könyves Kálmán krt. 12-14, Tram: 4, 6, or Tram: 1 Mester utca stop, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu mammuT palace cINema — Lövőház utca 2-6, II district, Trams: 4, 6, Széna tér stop, Ticket: 999 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu mom parK palace cINema – Alkotás utca 53, MOM Park Shopping Center, XII district, Trams: 59, 61, Ticket: 999 6161, www.palacecinemas.hu movIe museum ÖrÖKmozgó – Örökmozgó Filmmúzeum, 1073 Erzsébet krt. 39, Trams: 4, 6, stop Király utca műcsarNoK — Art Hall / Kunsthalle, 1146 Budapest, Hősök tere, Tel: (62) 460 7000; 363 2671, www.mucsarnok.hu odeoN-lloyd mozI – 1135 Budapest, Hollán Ernő utca 7, Tel: (62) 329 2064, www.odeon-lloyd.hu ÖrÖKmozgó – 1073 Budapest, Erzsébet körút 39, Tel: (62) 342 2167 palace wesTeNd – in Westend City Center, Váci út 1-3, VI district, Metro 3 Nyugati pályaudvar, Trams: 4, 6 station/stop Nyugati pályaudvar, Ticket: 999 6161 www.westend.hu, www.palacecinemas.hu palace mammuT – Mammut Center, Lövőház utca 2-6, Metro 2 station Moszkva tér, Trams: 4, 6 stop Széna tér, www.mammut.hu, www.palacecinemas.hu

pólus ceNTer Hollywood mulTIplex – Szentmihályi út 131, XV district, Bus 173 to final stop, Tel: (62) 467 4267, www.intercom.hu

szINdbád – 1137 Budapest, Szent István körút 16, Tel: (62) 349 2773 TabáN – 1016 Budapest, Krisztina körút 87-89, Tel: (62) 356 8162 ToldI mozI – 1054 Budapest, Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 36–38, Tel: (62) 472 0397, Metro: Deak Ferenc tér, www.artmozi.hu uráNIa NaTIoNal movIe THeaTre – Uránia Nemzeti Filmszínház, Rákóczi út 21, VIII district, Metro 2 station Blaha Lujza tér, Ticket: 486 3400, www.urania-nf.hu vÖrÖsmarTy – 1085 Budapest, Üllői út 4, Tel: (62) 317 4542

womeN wIll Never be equal To meN uNTIl THey caN walK dowN THe sTreeT wITH a bald Head aNd a beer guT, aNd sTIll THINK THey are sexy.

BOred? CaN’T deCIde WHere TO GO? GÁBOr WavrIk aSked SOMe STraNGerS:

what’s your sweet spot?

Péter, tour driver “I tell people to try the pubs on Vaci Utca.”

Emese, Student “I like the student bars because they are more affordable for me.”

átlátni a cigarettafüstön IMMÁrON NeGYedIk évadÁHOZ érkeZeTT aMerIkÁBaN a Mad MeN (rekLÁMőrüLTek) TévéSOrOZaT. HOrvÁTH MIkLóS (WIZdOG)

manapság „legjobb drámasorozat” - ként emlegetett televíziós produkció idén is nagyszámú jelöléssel büszkélkedhet az éves díjátadókon. A rajongók pedig türelmetlenül azon töprengenek, hogy vajon most mi fog történni a kedvenc reklámosaikkal? A kérdés hallatán a sorozat agya, Matthew Weiner inkább csak sejtelmesen mosolyog, és mindössze annyit árul el, hogy „a szereplők mindegyike szembekerül egy-egy korábbi döntése következményeivel.” Ahelyett, hogy különböző fórumokon kutatva igyekeznénk mi is hozzájutni pár információmorzsához, inkább próbáljuk meg használni a fejünket, és végiggondolni, hogy ez mit is jelenthet. Elvégre, ez egy igényes embereknek írt sorozat, nem? Először is, a negyedik évadra a sorozatok nagy részét eléri a kifulladás veszélye. Muszáj alapjaiban változtatni az egész helyzeten, különben leül az egész sorozat. Itt is ez történik: Don Draper, Roger Sterling, Bert Cooper, és Lane Pryce, hátat fordítva az angol tulajdonosoknak új reklámcéget alapítottak, ahová magukkal vitték Peggyt, Pete-et, Harryt, és (hál’ Istennek) az elbűvölő Joant is. Ezzel Don számára ismét új élet kezdődik. Miközben partnerré vált az új cégben, a házassága tönkrement: a felesége, Betty elhagyta őt egy képviselőért, mivel már nem tűrte tovább a mellőzöttséget, és a titkolódzást (vagy nevezzük őket egyszerűen hazugságoknak?). Most pedig, hogy Don ismét egyedülálló lett, a nézők egy része, kíváncsian várja, vajon milyen nőkkel fog összejönni a főszereplőnk? Roger, aki korábban elhagyta a feleségét egy fiatal titkárnőért, Jane-ért, a harmadik évad végére nem tűnt igazán boldognak az iszákos és ostobácska nő mellett. Pete Campbell eddig mindig csak az elismerésre vágyott. Most végre ő az elsőszámú account, de kérdés, vajon képes-e együtt maradni Trudyval, akit nem szeret igazán, annak ellenére, hogy a felesége egy okos, és odaadó nő. A másik népszerű karrierista, Peggy Olson Don elsőszámú szövegírójává lépett elő a harmadik évad befejező részében, és kíváncsian várjuk, vajon tovább folytatódik-e a viszonya Duck-kal? Ne feledkezzünk meg azért Don családjáról sem: Bettyről eddig is tudtuk, hogy nem jó anya, ezért most az is kérdés, hogy fog megbirkózni ezzel a feladattal? A mostani élettársa, Henry Francis mellett már vélhetőleg nem kell annyira a háttérbe húzódnia. Hogyan tudja feledtetni az apjuk hiányát Sallyvel és Bobbyval? És, ha már válásnál tartunk, izgalmas kérdés, hogy mennyire életképes a továbbiakban Joan házassága? Már régesrég lehullt számára az álarc a korábban álmodott orvos férjről, helyette ott maradt egy önző bunkó, aki még sebésznek sem volt túl jó. Ezalatt pedig zajlanak tovább a „hatvanas évek”. Kennedy halott, a polgárjogi mozgalom is sikeres, a nők pozíciója egyre jobb. Mi jöhet még? A vietnámi háború? A liberalizmus előretörése? A Mad Men azért izgalmas sorozat, mert bár a nézők (és itt nem csak az amerikaiakra gondolok) nem tudják, hogy mi fog történni az egyes szereplőkkel, ismerik a kort, amiben a sorozat játszódik. A Mad Men nem arra törekszik, hogy megszépítse a múltat, hanem hogy hiteles, és sokak számára ismerős jelmezekben és miliőben megmutassa: az akkor élő emberek sem voltak szentek. Ezzel furcsa tükröt tart a mostani világunknak, hiszen a folyamatos összehasonlítgatás óhatatlan. Elvégre a mai reklámosok egyik feladata, hogy leszoktassanak minket a cigarettáról…

A

— ameNNyIbeN érdeKelNeK a sorozaT KorábbI részeI, ITT Hosszabb leírásT Is TalálHaTsz róluK: HogyvolT.blog.Hu Tag: reKlámőrülTeK

W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

Éva, area resident

Robert, tourist

“I love the buildings and shops in downtown.”

“We've walked along the riverfront a lot. I like that a lot.”

Péter and Orsolya, area residents “Belváros is beautiful places and shops. A beautiful life.”

Ibrahim, Microbiologist

Ilona, student

Good food? Astoria Turkish Restaurant, Star kebab.

Favourite place? “Starbucks!”

2

eaTZ

dining options

thinky’s Favourite eating joints Finally a guide to eating in Budapest that’s not cream-filled with kiss-ass copy. We tell you the real deal on what’s good, and what’s not, around town. Not some phone book sized listing, just the real deal... Read it all; you might learn something. Suggestions? Email: [email protected]. GOA CAFÉ ÉTTEREM 101. Andrássy út , t: +3-30-302-270, h-v: 12.00-2.00 Talán a legszebb étterem Pesten, gyönyörű keleti-minimál-barátságos stílusban. Bár az árszínvonalban is meglátszik, hogy elit helyen elit étteremben eszünk, a jó minőségű nemzetközi konyhát is beszámítva mindenképpen megéri az árát azoknak, akik jó hangulatú, szép és elegáns helyen akarnak különleges ételeket enni. Személy szerint gyakran viszem külföldi vendégeimet ide. — WG

stop) Nem csak palacsintákat lehet itt kapni ebben a gyorsétterem láncban, hanem például töltött-reszelt főtt krumplit is (a klasszikus sajtos-tejfölössel nem lehet mellényúlni), vagy tárkonyos csirkeragu levest. Palacsintát szinte mindenhol ettem már az országban, de itt a legjobb: vékony a tészta, viszont ízletes és jól átsült. Nem csoda, hogy a tulajdonosok már a harmadik boltot nyitják. — WG

FOR SALE PUB

101. széchenyi utca 1, t: +3-1-29302, h-v: 11.00-22.00 Valószínűleg a legautentikusabb ázsiai hami Budapesten. A hely maga elég egyszerű és kicsit zsufis, de az ételek semmiben sem hasonlítanak a Budapesten megszokott kínai éttermek rosszminőségű, teljesen egyhangú kínálatához. A ramen kedvelőknek ott a savanyú-erős, dumplingban ajánljuk a hagymás-húsost, szaftos ételben a gyömbéres-gombás csirkét (japán shitakival), kísérőnek a pácolt retket. Persze a gyorskínaiknál drágább, de megéri. — WG

10 budapest, vámház körút 2. tel: 0 1 27-027 Great pub/restaurant with a décor that will leave you amazed…1,000’s of business cards all pinned to the walls and ceilings. With an excellent menu that caters for all tastes the only thing is…you will need a huge appetite as the servings are huge. (Smaller portions are available for children). An excellent selection of import and local beers, complimentary peanuts that you just chuck the shells on the floor and that Olde Worlde feel. Live music from locals playing all your favourites, excellent service and prices that won’t empty your wallet. — DH

NAGYI PALACSINTÁZÓJA

KIADO KOCSMA!

Üzletek: iii. szentendrei út 131, v. Petőfi s u 17, Xii: Királyhágó tér 2. Nyitva tartás: eltérő (a szentendrei úton non-

101 jokal ter 3, tel: 331 19 – Metro – Oktagon A little eatery located in the hostel district of Budapest, offering a wide se-

MOMOTARO RAMEN ÉTTEREM

lection of foods at very reasonable prices. I enjoyed a seeded duck breast salad, that had so many seeds it was impossible to tell what they were…except delicious. The duck was surprisingly flavoursome with orange and lemon, the usual lettuce was present, but with every mouthful, a different flavour ensued with a variety of dressings in different parts of the plate. Kiado Kocsma offers a very relaxed atmosphere for the local, expat and traveller alike, and with an Olde Worlde décor style, you will feel like you’ re in Budapest of yester year! — DH

VENDIAK PUB-RESTAURANT 103 budapest, egyetem tér . belváros. tel: 27-022 Metro: Kalvin ter A super, light and airy venue, with a menu to please all pallets’, with both local Hungarian and international food choices, it is reasonably priced and has excellent service. All menu items are clearly described in both Hungarian and English in easy to read styles. It is clean, hip and not a tourist rip-off joint!!! This is a place to impress your date, your partner…for dinner or just for a coffee or a beer. Located near to the Kalvin Ter. Metro, in the museum district of Budapest, it is in easy reach of many of the transport routes in the city. — DH

thiNKY reCOMMeNDs:

Mani Manó Kávézó

A belváros szívében, a Nagymező utca 20-ban van egy nagyhírű kis kávézó, családias hangulattal, kellemes nyitva-tartással. szabó tünde üzletvezetővel beszélgettünk. thiNK: Nagyon hangulatos a hely, látszik, hogy átgondoltan lett kialakítva a belső design, még ha eklektikus is. Egy dolog azért kicsit meglepő: a bugyi-zöld fal. sZt: Inkább kórház-zöldnek mondanám. A kávézó egy műemléképületben van, Mai Manó egykori udvari fotográfus épületében. A Műemlékvédelmi Hivatal ragaszkodott ehhez a zöld színhez. Először nekünk is furcsa volt, de miután „megtelt” a fal képekkel és tükrökkel, kifejezetten megszerettük. A Mai Manó név is a hivatal előírása volt, de ez teljesen egybevágott az elképzeléseinkkel, ugyanis szerettünk volna egy kiállító-helyet teremteni fiatal, fél-profi és kezdő fotósoknak, ahol megmutathatják magukat. Az első kiállításunk egyébként a mester (Mai Manó) gyerekfotóiból rendeztük, nagy siker volt. Azóta is havonta frissülnek a kiállított képek, és folyamatosan új fotósok jelennek meg, egy évre előre be vagyunk táblázva. Egyébként elég sok képet el is adnak. A mostani kiállító például már ötöt. thiNK: Pár hónapja, amikor itt jártam, láttam Csányi Sándort, itt kávézgatott. Gyakran járnak ide színészek? SZT: Mivel itt a „Pesti Broadway” közepén nyitottunk, szezonban nagyon sok színész jár ide, sokan közülük törzsvendégek, van, aki már puszi pajtás. Pár név azok közül akik járnak, vagy jártak ide, a teljesség igénye nélkül: Csányi, Garas, Kulka, Eszenyi, Wayna, Alföldi, Dobó Kata, Nagy Zsolt. Van olyan, hogy itt próbálnak, de olyan is, hogy előadás után itt vezetik le a feszültséget. thiNK: Nem féltek az elmúlt pár évben tömegesen megnyíló kávéházláncok konkurenciájától? sZt: Nem igazán. Úgy gondoljuk, hogy egész más fajta, jobb minőségű kávét szolgálunk fel, és más módon. Ott jellemzőbb a nagyüzem. Mi nálunk családias a légkör, a felszolgálók sokszor elbeszélgetnek a vendégekkel. A kiállítások is adnak egy egyedi hangulatot a helynek. Ha megnézed az olaszokat, ott nagyon kevés frenchise kávéházlánc van, nem véletlenül.

Frici Papa Kifőzdéje Hungarian cuisine is rather diverse, but if you were to anyone the world round what they knew of it, you would likely elicit a single response. That response would be, of course, “Goulash!” Goulash is probably the first dish sought by every visitor Hungary, and rightly so, as it is delicious. But visitors and new residents don’t know goulash like the locals do. They don’t know who makes it right when mom is too busy to make. But if it is goulash made the way the locals like it that you want, then head to Frici Papa. A recent visit to this fine little gem was not only enjoyable but quite easy on the pocketbook. The service was fast and attentive, and we had scarcely seated ourselves before menus were in our hands and a smiling face awaited our order. Despite being a local favourite, the menus sport English translation. In our party of five, all but one ordered goulash, which was rich and spicy without being hot. The taste of the beef shined in the rich flavors of the sauce, rather than being obscured. We ordered our selections with fries, roasted potatoes, and white rice, but the, lightly buttered, herbed potatoes truly best highlight the work of Frici Papa’s chef. Order what you wish, though, as the goulash is the star here and I could well have eaten it with just the bread on the table, which was also quite good. As for portions, we could have ordered two to share. They are huge. The prices are easy on the pocketbook across the menu. It gets no better than this. If you are new in town, get yourself over to Frici Papa immediately. If you have been here for a spell but have been missing out, well… now you know. — Francis Pruett

thiNK: Mire vagy a legbüszkébb? sZt: Arra, hogy a Manó az első boltvezetői munkám, és 8 éve töretlenül sikeres. Mindig vannak új dolgok, és nagyon stabil és

jó a felszolgáló gárda. Többször is volt olyan, hogy valaki elment, majd visszajött hozzánk dolgozni. Az étlapról pedig leginkább a helyben sütött friss croissant ajánlom tejeskávéval, narancslével, reggelire, isteni (összesen 1300 Ft-ért)! — Wavrik Gábor THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

budapest, vi. ker. Király u.  (0) 1 31 0197, Mondaysaturday, 11-23

„ÖNmaguNK megIsmerése a legNagyobb uTazás, a legfélelmesebb felfedezés, a legTaNulságosabb TalálKozás.” - máraI sáNdor

Photo: Attila Szvacsek

iN PrAise OF trADitiON IN BUdapeST, ONe SeeS THe LUSH FeMININe CUrveS OF BUda CONNeCTed BY THe LIGHTS OF THe CHaIN BrIdGe TO THe STrONG MaSCULINe SkYLINe OF peST. HILarY FrINk

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ou can see the changes from the elegant Austro-Hungarian Empire, to bland Communism, to the eclectic modern movements, and still all combined create a majestic place of culture. There is nothing that represents this unique blend of history more than the expansive variety of food offered in Budapest. People around the world have different tastes and different qualities they look for in dinning. Since we all have different tastes it is very important to stop and consider, “what is the typical cuisine in the new city you have just stepped off the bus in?” To the real question; what is Hungarian food? The best example of real Hungarian food can be found at this cute little lunch place called KáDár éttereM. Just across from, the little Klauzál Ter Park is the perfect place for lunch with your close friends, or enjoy a late breakfast with a special someone after a long night. This adorable lunch restaurant is one of a dying breed with its small tables and bottle of seltzer water on each table. The food is made fresh every day. If a dish runs out, well, you are out of luck, so get there early if you can. To begin with, sharing time, just sitting down with your friends, is a nice way to start your day, but as you walk in you get a comfortable feeling, like going to your grandparent’s house for a good home cooked meal. The menu consists of some of the most classic Hungarian foods known today. While there I enjoyed a typical cabbage stew with warm bread. The stew tasted like I had gone back to a time with no worries, just a rich creamy soup to satisfy the hunger of life. One of my friends enjoyed a terrific beef gulyas, with the traditional broth that brings warmth and comfort to even the toughest of days. The other devoured roasted pork with potatoes, the pork so tender that it melts in your mouth, and the potatoes roasted to perfection. All of these dishes reflect the traditional Hungarian foods for they include meat, powdered paprika, root vegetables, cabbage, and lots of cream. For beverages they have the best seltzer water on the tables in spray bottles. One piece of advice: females beware, unless you intend to impress someone, don’t wear white because one strong squeeze and you will get drenched from head to foot. One might think this is hilarious, until it happens to you. Think about it! In the end you will leave with an unforgettable story that can be told for years and years to come. At the end of the meal we were able to try the dessert of the day. Every day they have a different pastry or dessert that is every bit as tasty as the main meals, all made fresh to create an overpowering aroma and flavour that will put you in a food comma. Over all Kádár Étterem is a good place to first experience to Hungarian food. The wait staff is very friendly and makes the whole experience all the more welcoming for you and your friends. As a good friend of mine says, “No one should ever have to eat alone!” So grab some friends or a loved one and go explore Budapest one morsel of food at a time. — Kádár éTTerem - 1072 budapesT, Klauzál Tér 9. opeN Tuesday To saTurday 11:30- 15:3

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aGeNda

1 ways to leave your sofa 14 öTLeT, HOGY eLMeNJ HaZULróL ki kíváncsi a magyar iparművészek és kézművesek munkáira, mert olyan autentikus tárgyakra vágyik, ahol biztos nem fut bele „Made in China” feliratokba, látogasson el szeptember 12-én, vasárnap a wAMP DesigN MArKet rendezvényére az Erzsébet térre. Kis széria, kreativitás reggeltől estig. Szeptember 15-én ad koncertet a Papp László Sportarénában a PlACebO együttes, a „sötét romantikus rock zene” jeles képviselője. A nőies külsőt öltött férfi frontember úgy egyensúlyoz a nemek között, mint a formáció zenei hangzása a kemény rock zenei alapok és a sejtelmeslágy énekhang között. MiChAel KeNtish jó ideje hazánkban élő angol zenész. Hangulatos akusztikus gitárkoncertre számíthatunk tőle szeptem-

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International Dance Latino World Dance Festival 8th to 12th September 2010, Sportmax Hegyvidék

In a huge coup for Budapest, the International Dance Organization will present the lAtiNO wOrlD DANCe FestivAl (www.vilagtancfesztival.hu). World Championships will

be on the line in American Mambo, Rueda De Casino, Small Group and Couples Latino Show Dancing and, of course, the ever-more-popular Salsa. European Championships will be determined for dancers in Special Couples Dance, Bachata and American Tango. The event will also play host to World Cup competition in a variety of styles, but for all the excitement of competition, the first half of the week will see a slew of workshops offered for those who prefer “doing” to “seeing.” Workshops will be held at Casa De La Música (VIII., Vas utca 16, Budapest, www. casadelamusica.hu) while the competitions will be held at the Sportmax Hegyvidék. Tickets can be purchased in advance from Casa De La Música or at the door from the Sportmax 2 Ticket Office 1123 Csörsz utca 14-16. For more information on this Budapest first, including workshop reservations: 0036 209469997 or [email protected]. élményben lehet részünk. Nem sok művészetet kedvelő ember van, aki ne ismerné és szeretné gUstAv KliMtet, így a Szépművészeti Múzeumban szeptember 23-án nyíló kiállítás, mely Klimt

dára, és érinti a Városligetet is. Ez az a nap, amikor jobb a futók között lihegni, mint az útlezárások miatti forgalmi dugóban ücsörögni. Mindennap nyitva a liviNg rOOM (Kossuth Lajos utca

Retro „Here and Now” A 80-as évek angol popzenéjének sztárjai Budapesten Papp László Sportaréna, 2010. október 2.

Élőben a 80-as évek! Rokizhatunk Boy George „Kaméleon”-jára, lassúzhatunk Paul Young „Every Time You Go Away” című örökzöldjére, breakelhetünk Kim Wilde „Keep Me Hanging On”-jára, és bármelyik táncot villanthatjuk, vagy csak lötyöghetünk Rick Astley „Nerver Gonna Give You Up”-jára. A vasfüggöny gyengülésével szerencsére ezek a dalok már annak idején is eljutottak hozzánk, igaz nem élőben, hanem házibulikon, esetleg diszkókban. Jó is volt a Fortuna, ahol az első funky-kat hallotuk, vagy a Margit Híd Diszkó a villódzó műanyag parkettel és folyamatos videoklipp vetítéssel. No, de elég a nosztalgiából, jó esély van rá, hogy az 50 körüli sztárok minden korosztály számára élvezhető koncertet csapnak majd. Papák, mamák, hívjuk el az utódokat, és mutassuk meg, hogy még mindig tudunk bulizni! ber 16-án, a Lázár utcai Treehugger Dan’s Bookstore-Lounge-ban, ami nem csak angol nyelvű könyvekre specializálódott antikvárium és könyvesbolt, hanem különféle rendezvények helyszíne és kávézó is. Az itt forgalmazott kávé „fair trade” úton kerül az üzletbe, ami azt jelenti, hogy a harmadik világbeli termelők méltányos árakon értékesítik a terményt a kereskedőknek. Szeptember 16-án kezdődik és október elejéig tart a bUDAPesti bArOKK FesZtivál a Váci utcai Szent Mihály templomban. A templomi komolyzene kedvelői idén főleg J.S. Bach műveit hallgathatják, a szervezők ezzel köszöntik a zeneszerző születésének 260-ik évfordulóját. A bő két hétig tartó program-sorozat szinte minden napjára jut előadás, érdemes megkeresni a templom hivatalos weboldalát. Aki nagyszabású zenés látványosságra vágyik, szeptember 17-18-án menjen el a Budapest Sportarénába a beN hUr ihlette szuperprodukcióra. A lóverseny jelenet kapcsán korábban hallott problémákon úgy látszik, sikerült túllépni, így a Magyar Vágta izgalmaival vetélkedő THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

és a korai bécsi szecesszió művésze- 17), ahol a fiatalok élő DJ zenére buinek munkáiból válogat, biztos sikerre lizhatnak hajnalig, bár idősebbek is számíthat. Szerencsére a kiállítás 2011. elkezdhetik. Buli után irány a török! januárig nyitva lesz. Szeptember 24-25- Aki változatos ízekre vágyik, a Chef én rendezik a hazai folyékony kenyér Főzőiskolában a helye. A világ minden ünnepét, vagyis a bUDAPesti CsAPOlt tájáról származó receptek elkészítésén sÖr FesZtivált, ahol kis hazai sör- munkálkodhatunk szakértők irányítáfőzdék mutatják be büszkeségeiket a sával, igényes, inspiráló környezetben. nagyközönségnek, miközben verse- Szeptemberben tizennyolc egy napos nyeznek is egymással. A győztes sört kurzus indul. egy évig lehet majd fogyasztani a Szimpla Kávézóban, ami nem kis szó a multik által Tribute Bands uralt magyar sörpiacon. Ha Letz Zep sörkülönlegességekre 24th September 2010, Sports Arena vágyunk, látogassunk el pén- Budapest teken, vagy szombaton a Enjoy an evening with the music of Király és Hegedű utca sarkára. Nem csak sörivóknak Led Zeppelin when Letz-Zep takes the stage, and find out why Robert Plant ajánlott a szeptember 26-ára, said “I walked in, I saw me”. This vasárnapra szervezett bUDA- amazingly talented tribute band will Pest NeMZetKÖZi MArA- be playing a live concert at the Papp tON. Több táv között is László Budapest Sportaréna from választhatunk, így bárki 8pm, so be sure to order your tickets early at Worldticketshop.com. nevezhet. A szervezők sok ezer emberre számítanak. Az útvonal a belvárosban cikázik, átmegy Pestről Bu-

s if the Dalai Lama's visit (perhaps for a wine tasting, some jazz and to show off his salsa skills) is not enough, it looks like September will be the month to head out and about. If you are looking for a cause to support and something unique for yourself, you can head to the wAMP DesigN MArKet (www. wamp.hu) at Erzsébet tér on the 12th. You'll be buying Hungarian, and that's a good cause in our book. Papp László Sportaréna will be rocking and rolling all month long, and it seems they wanted to pack the most excitement into one week.

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PlACebO, England’s latest “I want to be bigger than the Beatles” pop troop, hits the stage on September 15. The group ducks out just in time for Ben Hur to take over for three performances of roman chariot races and the like.

One might wonder if they will need an army of volunteers to clean up after the horses and disinfect in time for the holy guy the next day. Count me out, man. There's always something going on at the Sportaréna, so check out their site and see what you like (www. budapestarena.hu).

„NINcs más elleNsége az emberNeK, csaK a bűNTudaT és a félelem. a szereTeT és a TudaTosság Igaz baráTaId.” - dalaI láma

Of course, if this is all too much for you, I suggest you accept sanctuary in a church. I hear the music can be lovely. the bUDAPest bArOqUe FestivAl

Lecture Dalai Lama Budapest, September 18–19

Since he’ll be in town, here are some simple tips for living a more harmonious life from the Dalai Lama. 1. Take into account that great love and great achievements involve great risk. 2. When you lose, don't lose the lesson. 3. Follow the three Rs: Respect for self, Respect for others and Responsibility for all your actions. 4. Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a wonderful stroke of luck. 5. Learn the rules so you know how to break them properly. 6. Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship. 7. When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to correct it. 8. Spend some time alone every day. 9. Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values. 10. Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer. 11. Live a good, honourable life. Then when you get older and think back, you'll be able to enjoy it a second time. 12. A loving atmosphere in your home is the foundation for your life. 13. In disagreements with loved ones, deal only with the current situation. Don't bring up the past. 14. Share your knowledge. It's a way to achieve immortality. 15. Be gentle with the earth. 16. Once a year, go someplace you've never been before. 17. Remember that the best relationship is one in which your love for each other exceeds your need for each other. 18. Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it. 19. Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon. — DalaiLama-Budapest.hu

W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

runs from the 16th through Oct. 3rd at Szent Mihály Church and should be well worth a listen. From Bach to Vivaldi and Mozart, they have quite a program planned. Check their website (www. barokkfesztival.hu) for details. You can schedule your attendance around a favourite piece or composer pretty easily, as the whole program is online. Some of these shows can be a bit pricey, but then much of what we like is pretty inexpensive, too. MiChAel KeNtish will be at Treehugger Dan's playing his own tunes (and a few “stolen” ones). It should be a nice and mellow night. Dan always has a plan, so see what his schemes include at the website: (www. treehuggerdans.com). Pick up a book or two for when you decide to stay home. All of them are used and that means green. And, like the performances he put on, they are reasonably priced. If your needs are more visual, (or you happen to be deaf, lacking in appreciation for music or just plain want some quiet) then you can take in some wonderful works by gUstAv KliMt At the MUseUM OF FiNe Arts (www.szepmu veszeti.hu). Ah, the art of sexy women and long kisses never disappoints. This is one collection you should not miss if you can help it. As an added bonus, this is definitely a winning date idea, folks. But there's no rush, he's already dead and the exhibit lasts until January. You can raise a glass to him anyway, if you like, at a Craft Beer Festival on the 25th at Király and Hegedű utcas. Beer before church (or at least right in front of one)? Why not? Sometimes it just rocks so much to not be a Mormon. That beer should be a great way to warm up before you shake your groove thing at the liviNg rOOM (www.living room.hu), but it's probably a rotten way to prepare for the bUDAPest iNterNAtiONAl MArAthON (www.budapest marathon.com), which kicks off at 10 the 26th. Entries are still available. Me? I think I will be looking into a cooking class to impress (and educate) my girlfriend, likely at chef parade (www.chefparade.hu). I love her, but wow... the things we eat for love. I think I will take her to the wok cooking class...

2 drinking

Pains, strains, and Author bar bills a drINker’S LaMeNT “GOOd eveNING BarMaN.” “GOOd eveNING SIr. WHaT are YOU HavING?” “WeLL BarMaN, I’M HavING a Bad daY....” aNGUS MaTTHeWS

’ve started to worry about the effect that living in Budapest is having on my health. I appear to be going through some kind of mid-life health crisis. Or to be more accurate, some kind of mid-life bad health crisis. So you want to know what’s wrong with me? Well, for a start, I can’t get drunk like I used to. I mean, I can’t get drunk in the same way I used to. It’s now a lot harder and takes a lot longer than before.

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Before my crisis, I could seamlessly work my way through half-a-dozen beers, with palinka chasers, followed by any number of cocktails and concoctions. I knew this would have the desired effect of making me ten feet tall and bulletproof by at least midnight. Now I have to start much earlier, and plan things carefully. There’s a real science going into my benders these days. It takes so much effort. The beer leaves me so bloated I have to hit the chasers much earlier in the night, and they often have to be double or triple strength before my body takes any notice. “Oh!” it says to me after yet another tequila, “You’re trying to get drunk? Why didn’t you tell me?” before hitting me with a skull cleaving migraine. I have to force the cocktails down my throat, and make sure I have a ready supply of pain-killers to keep up my momentum. And then there’s the hangovers. These are real medical emergencies, complete with double vision and loss of speech. My body fights off the attentions of the humble paracetemol and faithful old aspirin with barely a twitch. It demands stronger Art: Búsuló legény by László Mednyánszky chemicals and state-of-the-art manipulation. No longer does the hair of the dog that bit me calm my jangling nerves and synapses. Now the ugly mutt keeps his jaws sult of an argument with the ground when falling off this very barstool. My left ankle has fared better than my right, which stiffened up after toppling down the clamped to my temples, leaving me moist eyed and wiped out all the weekend. steps of Gödör one night. I now have the annoying tendency to veer to the right On these occasions my memory lets me down ever more frequently. Maybe it’s when running. Fortunately I don’t do too much of that these days... always been this way, but I just can’t remember. The other week I found myself I could go on barman, but do you understand what I’m saying? What’s the answer? driving over the Chain Bridge and had no idea how I’d gotten there. I’d only gone out to buy a packet of smokes from the corner shop. I drove home feeling confused. It’s only when I’d got back to Kalvin tér that I remembered I needed “Excuse me sir, I didn’t quite catch that.” something from a shop in Buda. If I could only remember what it was. My knees creak, crack and crunch every time I stand up, or run, or move too quickly; the re“The usual please barman.”


UNiqUe:

A38—a38 Ship petöfi Bridge Buda Side, Budapest, Tel: +36 1 464 3940, www.a38.hu eat, drink and dance. I'm on a boat!

CAFÉ CSIGA—vIII. vásár utca 2, Budapest,

LEGENDS SPORTS BAR—v. petőfi tér 3, Budapest,

Tram: 4, 6 Bus: 906, 923 rákóczi tér, Tel: +36 1 210 0885, www.cafecsiga.org artsy, creative, laid-back alternative atmosphere, closes at 0100.

Tram: M2 vigadó tér, (06 1) 266 1826, www. legends.hu Big-screen, hi-definition international sports bar


gAY/lesbiAN/iNtergeNDereD:

ACTION BAR—v. Magyar utca 42, Budapest, Metro: M3 Tram: 47, 49 Bus: 8, 9, 15, 83, 109, 112, 115 kálvin tér, Tel: (06 1) 266 9148, www.action .gay.hu, Men only, minimum drink order required.

Bus: 70, 78 Zichy Jenő, Tel: (06 1) 302 7002, www.sandokanlisboa.hu avast! Named after a fictional pirate, styled after a portuguese bar.

CHAMPS SPORTS PUB (PEST)—vII. dohány utca 20, Budapest, Metro: M2 astoria, Tram: 47, 49 Bus: 5, 7, 8, 9, 109, 112, 173, Tel: (06 1) 413 1655, www. champs.hu Individual booths with televisions, so plenty of sports “on tap.”

KLUB VITTULA—vII. kertész utca 4, Budapest, Bus: 74, erzsébet kőrut, Metro: M2 Blaha Lujza tér, http://klubvittula.blogspot.com, arty. Cheap drinks, no dancing, friendly crowd. Long hours.

BAR DOMBY—vI. anker kőz 3, Budapest, Metro:

CHAMPS BUDA SPORT PUB—II. erőd utca 22, Bu-

CAPELLA CAFÉ—v. Belgrád rakpart 23, Budapest,

M1, M2, M3 deak Ferenc tér, Tel: (06) 30 370 262, www.bar-domby.hu Music varies but is current, regardless. Classy, great date bar.

dapest, Tram: 4, 6 Bus: 11, 111, 906, 931, 960 Mechwart liget, Tel: (06 1) 201 0569, www. champsbuda.hu booths with their own televisions, as in pest.

Tram: M2 Bus: 15, 115 Március 15. tér, Tel: (06 1) 318 6231, www.capellacafe.hu Straight-friendly gay bar with elaborate cabaret and drag shows.

FAT MO'S—v. Nyáry pál u. 11, Budapest, Metro:

4PLAY SPORT PUB—vIII. József kőrut 60, Bu-

BOX UTCA—vI. Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 21, Budapest, Metro: M3 arany János utca, Bus: 72, 73, 109, 914, 914a, 931, 950, (06 1) 354 1444, www.box-utca.hu pricy but screens, food and drinks are all great with excellent service.

COXX CLUB (FORMERLY CHAOS)—vII. dohány utca 38, Budapest, Metro: M2 Blaha Lujza tér, Tram: 4, 6 Bus: 5, 7/e, 179/e, 178/a, Tel: +36 1 344 4884 www.coxx.hu Metal themed bar with occasional leather parties. Minimum purchase required.

CAFFE ZAPPA—vIII. Mikszáth kálmán tér 2, Budapest, Bus: 9, 83, 109, 909 Szentkirályi utca, Tel: +36 20 972 1711, www.zappacaffe.hu If you merely like Frank Zappa, then prepare to be overloaded.

SANDOKAN LISBOA—vI. Hajós u. 23, Budapest,


MUsiC AND DANCiNg:


sPOrts bArs AND PUbs:

M3 Ferenciek tere, Tel: +36 20 536 2616, www.fatmo.hu The rules list (in english) says no dancing, but join in, the sign's just a prop.

dapest, Tram: 4, 6 Bus 9, 83, 109, 906, 909, 923 Baross utca & József körút, Tel: (06 1) 785 7362 Local and Uk sports on television.

THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

MYSTERY BAR—v. Nagysándor József utca 3, Budapest, Metro: M3 Bus: 72, 73, 109, 914/a, 931, 950/a, arany János utca, Tel: +36 1 312 1436, www. mysterybar.hu, Mixed gay and lesbian crowd. Mellow, quiet.

a bus sTaTIoN Is wHere a bus sTops. a TraIN sTaTIoN Is wHere a TraIN sTops. oN my desK, I Have a worK sTaTIoN..

MUMUS (ABOVE) Dob utca 1, budapest 107 tel: +3 30 270 732 In Budapest, you can find many ‘RUIN PUBS’… these are bars that are in the space between buildings, whilst being unique to Hungary; they are great places to enjoy the warm summer air and listen to great music. The floors are bare concrete, the furnishings are just a collection of whatever is at hand, old armchairs, garden benches, home standard lamps etc. with local DJ’s spinning up-beat and local tunes, cool street art décor, fast service and that industrial retro look that takes us back to the industrial parties of the 80’s, it is surely a place to go and relax whilst in Budapest. Keenly priced so that it appeals to those travelling on a budget, whilst not attracting the dodgier side of society, you will enjoy like-minded company with the knowledge that you will not get ripped off. Food is not served here, so eat before you go!

IRISH CAT 103, budapest , Múzeum krt. 1, tel: 01 2 0, www.irishcat.hu If, upon death, your condemned soul is not yet finished partying, then it is just possible the Irish Cat Pub will be your haunting grounds. At least, this is what the Irish Cat says might happen on its website. The owner has strived to reproduce an Irish pub’s atmosphere for its patrons. This small but well maintained basement public house sports walled booths and a winding common room wrapped around an appropriately stocked W W W. T H I N k - M a G a Z I N e . C O M

idékiként Budapestre felkerülve az embernek bőven van mit megszoknia, a sok újdonság között pedig egyaránt akadnak kellemes és kevésbé kellemes dolgok is. Persze ez hasonlóképp van, bárhova veti az embert a sorsa, de a főváros valahogy mégis mintha bármilyen más városnál inkább gyűjtőhelye lenne a válogatott különlegességeknek. A számomra kellemetlen megszoknivalók közé tartozik például a tömegközlekedés és a vizeletpatakok a járdákon, illetve a zöld környezet hiánya. (Jó, tudom, itt is van park, meg fasor, de épp ez az, hogy zöldet csak a parkban meg a fasoron látsz, nem úgy, mint otthon, ahol minden utcába jut egy kicsi.)

már egyébként komoly kultúrális központokká nőtte ki magát, és népszerűségüknek köszönhetően idegenforgalmi jelentőséggel is bírnak. A bulikon, koncerteken kívül gyakran szerveznek filmvetítéseket, kortárs irodalmi előadásokat, helyet adva így az undergroundnak, egyben formálva a „mainstream” kultúrát is. Divatosságukat figyelembe véve nehezen meghatározható, mennyire tekinthetjük az alternatív kultúra színhelyeinek ezeket a kocsmákat, mindenesetre üde színfoltot jelentenek a szórakozási lehetőségek palettáján, Budapestnek, pedig, adnak egy jellegzetes karaktert a túristák szemszögéből is.

Ami jó, ahhoz persze sokkal könnyebb hozzászokni. A gyönyörű épületek a belvárosban, a dunaparti séták, az éjszakai nyüzsgés... ezek bizony gyorsan elvarázsolják az idelátogatót. Hétköznap is könnyen elfordulhat, hogy az esti séta során az egyik sarkon váratlanul kisebb koncertbe, kirakodóvásárba, egyéb performanszba botlunk, nem is beszélve a szórakozóhelyek tömkelegéről. A felkapott bulihelyektől a hangulatos kávézókon át a klasszikus kocsmákig terjedő skálán mindent megtalálunk sétatávon belül.

www.szimpla.hu A Szimpla kert volt az első a romkocsma, ennek megfelelően mai napig a legismertebb, a neve már fogalommá vált. Alapítása óta már el kellett költöznie, fenyegette a bezárás réme is, mégis szimbolikus jelentőségű alternatív szórakozóhely maradt. A hangulatos megvilágítású kertben tökélyre vitt szertelenség uralkodik. Az még hagyján, hogy az asztalok mellett ritkán talál az ember két egyforma széket, de az udvarban még egy kiszuperált Trabant is helyet kapott, kvázi páhollyá alakítva várja a vendégeket. A belső szobák falain gyakran látható kortárs műalkotásokból szervezett mini kiállítás, de azon se kell meglepődni, ha bringát látunk lógni a plafonról, vagy égősorok közé komponált monitorok merednek ránk a falról. Zsíros kenyér, fröccs és persze csocsó is van.

v

rUIN BarS/rOMkOCSMa

bar. The selection of drinks includes the requisite Guinness, Jameson and the rest of Ireland’s best, with a good selection of Pálinkas, American spirits and local brews. The food menu is sparing in its Irish offerings, but certainly not lacking in the quality department. Expect to pay a fair price for it all. You will be served by a courteous and friendly staff who, though English capable, always appreciate your attempts to speak a bit of Hungarian.

RÓKALYUK (FOXHOLE) vii.  vesselényi Utca Rokályuk feels more like a bunker than a foxhole, but it tries not to be either. The walls are painted bright red and yellow, both beginning to lose their luster. The grime-gathering has begun in earnest, befitting a basement dive whose door is a short step from the asphalt and exhaust of the street. The bar itself is raised above the floor. Ascending to order would feel like offering sacrifice to some subterranean deity of imbibement, save for the paint job. Taken with Rokályuk’s strangely industrial interior shape, one might muse that one drinks in the belly of a far more infernal beast: Thomas the Tank Engine, zombie lord of toy marketing hell. But, at Rokályuk you can grab a drink cheaply where the locals looked worn and weathered. Maybe. During my visit, the barmaid was warding off utility workers from shutting the place over a delinquent 3.600 HUF balance. – Darren Halls

Van egy fajtája, azonban a szórakozóhelyeknek, amelynek példányai az utóbbi pár évben kezdtek gombamód elszaporodni Budapesten, sőt, a járvány mára már egyes vidéki városokat is elért. Ezek a helyek látogatottság és „divatosság” terén gyakran felveszik a versenyt a legnépszerűbb szórakozóhelyekkel, alapvető jellegüknek köszönhetően mégis olyan érzést keltenek, mintha egy házibuliba tévedne az ember. A „romkocsmák” lassan egy évtizede indultak hódító útjukra. Bár létük mára már beépült a köztudatba, és a budapesti éjszakai élet szerves részeivé váltak, a kezdetek kezdetén azért még sokan furcsálták az elhagyott, lebontásra váró bérházak alsó szintjein, belső udvarában nyíló kocsmák ötletét. Az úttörő Szimpla kert sikere bizonyította, hogy alapítói jó érzékkel sejtették meg a rést a piacon, és ráéreztek, mi hiányzott még a fővárosi közönségnek. De miben is rejlik a romkocsmák varázsa? Nyilván nincs egyetlen helyes válasz erre a kérdésre. Jómagam a szokatlan környezetre és a lazaságra tenném le a voksot – az állandó házibulihangulat nagyon kellemes kontrasztot jelent a puccos helyek garmadájához képest, ahova az ember szinte félve lép be, aggódván, hogy kinézik a pincérek. Ettől aztán nem kell tartani még a legdivatosabb romkocsmában sem. Miért is kéne, hiszen itt szemmel láthatólag még annyira sem szempont a külsőség, hogy egy „tisztességes” ülőgarnitúrát beszerezzenek. És ez jó! A szedett-vedett, piacról-pincébőlpadlásról beszerzett bútorzat csak fokozza az érzést, hogy bizony valami spontán baráti összejövetel közepébe csöppentünk, mikor beléptünk a különösebb jelzés nélküli, szokványos kapualjba. Hát még mekkora élmény felfedezni, hogy a sarokban álló fotel pontos mása annak, ami nagymamánk lakásában található, és hogy a szomszéd néninél is éppen ilyen hokedlin állt a fikusz. A magával ragadóan hanyag berendezés mellett a klasszikus pesti bérházak – a romkocsmák esetében némiképp megbontott és/vagy lepusztult – elrendezéséből, szerkezetéből adódó zegzugosság, félhomály is jó társ az estéhez, így a tömeg ellenére sem kell úgy éreznünk, hogy mindenki a mi bizalmas beszélgetéseinket akarja kihallgatni. Az egykori szobákból, közlekedőkből kialakított, gyakran különbözően dekorált terek között könnyen találunk aktuális hangulatunknak éppen megfelelőt. Némelyik romkocsma mára

SZIMPLA KERT vii. kerület Kazinczy u. 1

KUPLUNG vi. kerület Király u.  www.kuplung.net A Kuplung szintén régi motoros, 2004 óta várja az alternatív élményekre vágyó fiatalságot. Kialakításában meglehetősen különbözik a „klasszikus” romkocsmáktól, hiszen itt zegzugos, lerobbant bérház helyett egy csarnokszerű térben látták meg az alapítók a fantáziát. A falakat állandó kiállításként graffitik díszítik, és bár a berendezés hasonlóan szedett-vedett és régi itt is, a minimalista dizájn miatt itt egy grundon érezheti magát jól a vendég. Sok csocsóasztal, a kivetítőn adott időnkénti sportközvetítések szintén a „fiúkocsma” hangulatot erősítik, de ez ne tévesszen meg senkit – ugyanúgy belefuthatunk egy jó kiállításba vagy színházi előadásba is.

INSTANT vi. kerület Nagymező u. 3 www.instant.co.hu Az Instant az egyik legifjabb induló a romkocsmák versenyében, hiszen csak 2008-ban nyitotta meg kapuit. Ám ez egyáltalán nem jelenti, hogy hátrányos helyzetben lenne, hiszen különleges atmoszférájával gyorsan fel tudott kapaszkodni a legismertebb helyek közé. Ha egyetértünk abban, hogy a bérházakból kialakított kocsmák elvarázsolt helyek, az Instanttal kapcsolatban el kell ismernünk, hogy magas fokon űzi az efféle mágiát. A két bérház összenyitásával kialakított elvarázsolt kastélyban az egykori lakások és szobák eredeti struktúráját megtartották, és azokat jól megkülönböztethető hangulattal ruházták fel. Van itt zöld és piros szoba, magyar írók képeivel kitapétázott fürdőszoba, pillangós fal és felfordult nappali is, ahol a puff az állólámpával együtt a mennyezeten találta meg a helyét. Kivetítő itt is van az udvarban, ahogy sok más helyen is, de hol máshol mondhatná el magáról az ember, hogy egy levegőben úszó halraj társaságában nézte az esti meccset? Ha mindez nem lenne elég, még egy pinceszintet is kialakítottak, ahol a koncertek és bulik mellett más underground kulturális események is helyet kaphatnak. – Szabolcska Orsi THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

30 hotels & hostels

A harmony of Accommodations CaSa de La MúSICa 1088 BUdapeST, vaS U. 16, TeL: 06 70 938 8888 WWW.CaSadeLaMUSICa.HU

It’s a hostel, its a bar, its a performance space! It’s Case de la Musica!

ONe CaN eaSILY, BUT MISTakeNLY, Take CaSa de La MúSICa FOr JUST aNOTHer BUdapeST HOSTeL, IF a MUCH MOre COLOrFUL ONe THeN THe averaGe. BUT IT IS Far MOre THaN THaT. FraNCIS prUeTT

t is like music,” founder Martin Zsarnóczky mused. “Casa De La Música is not just a place you are, but the feeling it creates. It is something that must be felt to be understood.” If so, it is a deeply layered feeling, indeed. Casa De La Música is a multimodal facility, listing on its website (media) studios to let, student residences, casting facilities, an event hall and camps and minicamps on site, as well as the hostel. That’s a lot, to be sure, but a recent tour of the facility with Mr. Zsarnóczky and Sales Director Alija Pongracz revealed that, for good reason, the former hat and helmet factory is much more.

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Casa De La Música did not start out as a hostel at all. “At first, we were not in the hostel business, but we saw there was an interest in this, a demand, so we went ahead with it.” That demand arose from the rental of the location’s event and studio facilities to production companies. Soon, the idea of a one-stop production support services venue had arisen, including living spaces and catering facilities. The latter grew to encompass commercial kitchen rentals and also an “ancient foods” catering service. From the studio rental business came casting facilities, which during my visit were playing host to both VIVA Television and “X-Factor” Hungary. But Casa De La Música is not simply based on a “hardcore, business-tobusiness” economic model. There is creativity here in almost every centimeter of space. RoHAM, whose creative endeavors (including their self-named art magazine) are well-known in Budapest, operates two separate ground-floor bar spaces. One of the bars is a gallery of sorts, hosting an array of works which cover the walls, the furniture and even the ceiling. The other space is sleek, clean in blackand-white, a tunnel-like bar, kitted out with a small stage where artists and DJs have been known to drop in and perform. One person immediately came to mind while Martin showed me the space, “An Australian girl, a musician, was staying over during her tour,” he said. “She went and got her guitar, and played all night.” She, THINK budapesT CITY MaGaZINe

apparently, was feeling the music. In what is obviously a typical synergy for Casa De La Música, Roham is also a resource for Hungarian film, creating props and design for futuristic and art-house productions. Those, in turn, often end up in their gallery-style bar space. Harmonies and synchronicities continuously bubble in this cauldron of commerce and creativity. An unused space became an impromptu gallery for exhibitions, but since some find little merit in visual arts, certain conditions were emplaced. “The artist must also give a small performance for the people who come,” Alija imparted, her smile gently mischievous. “So they get on stage, play an instrument, share another kind of creativity, so no one gets bored.” Performance itself is on sale here, too. Dance classes are offered in a variety of styles. Cooperatively developed cooking, photography and other classes are also offered. Once again, synergy blooms with the hostel and the student residence businesses. “A couple can perhaps send the children to a day program while the mother attends a dance class and the father has a drink at our pubs,” Martin noted. “We are very family friendly. As if to push his point, a pair of children ran out onto the deck, and proceeded to happily pile into a good-sized inflatable pool, their mother looking on, relaxed, as she sipped from a beer and perused a newspaper. Even the paint is family-friendly. Stripes of colour reminiscent of architecture and the national flags of the Latin world rise from the floor and reach toward the sky inside the plaza. Outside, the stripes of colour are horizontal, and stand out among the drab grays of nearby edifices. The effect is warm and inviting, lively. As far as the hostel itself goes, accommodations range from private rooms to dormitory-style rooms with multiple bunks. Locker rooms and all of the expected accoutrements are available, and free WiFi is reachable from any place in the complex. The Casa features a terrace café with an excellent menu and a breakfast special for guests, a sports bar with a small studio, which Martin plans to grow into a turnkey production space. A café managed by Roham is always open at the entryway, as well. Asked in jest if a person might come to stay, take a dance class and be cast for a movie in the same day, Martin smiled and tilted his head. “Yes, this is entirely possible,” he said. One cannot help but think it inevitable...

a Tv caN INsulT your INTellIgeNce, buT NoTHINg rubs IT IN lIKe a compuTer.