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L Laura Flatau, Laura Sheed, Lena Willems, Lili Thiesen, Lorenzo Ambrosini, Lucas Hullegie, Lucy Periton M Mae Greenfield, Marc Many thanks to the travellers who used the Gardner de Beville, Maria Peña, Mariette last edition and wrote to us with helpful Huisjes, Mariza Attinger, Mark Snoeij, Marta hints, useful advice and interesting Kaminska, Martijn van Graafeiland, Michele anecdotes: van Nes, Miguel Moreno, Mikael Kirkensgaard, A Adloff Hortense, Alexander Echtermeyer, Mike van Buul, Miriam van den Bent, Mojca Alexander Pohlmann, Ana Zenic, Andrea Di Čebul N Natalia Nowinska, Nick VerberkGiovanni, Andy Counsell, Aniek van Gennip, Anja Hulzinga, Aron Vanoverberghe, Ash Enrici moes, Nicolas Combremont, Nienke Nieuwenhuis, Nigel Foster P Paul Bookallil, Paula B Barbara Guthrie, Barbie Cole C Carolien Jones, Peter Mjos, Petra Glanzmann, Petra Sala, Cees Nijland, Christian Faloppa, Clarissa O’Neill, Phil Paille, Pierre Saraber, Poorna Beri Ferreira, Claudia Israilev D Danny Carney, R Rebecca Pierpont, Renata Grabowska, David Cops, Dede Siliwangi, Delagloye Aurore, Deniz Çolak, Diego Sánchez, Don Turner, Doug Richard Hill, Rob Falloon, Robyn Davis, Rotem Zur S Sabrina Haake, Sam Godding, Sara Graeb E Eduardo Mariz, Elise Nabors, Elizabeth Dudley-Bestow, Elizabeth Goofers, Esther Molin, Sidsel Filipsen, Simon Morton, Simon Pridmore, Spencer Wood, Stefanus Prayogo, Groenendaal, Eugenia Casanova F Fabian Stéphane Damour, Stephen Wilson, Stuart Nydegger, Fergus Hadley, Flora Groothuizen, McBride T Tanja Nijhoff, Terence Pike, Teresa Francesca Piccini, Frank Kaiser, Frank WageWong, Tim Lovatt, Tim Mertens, Tobias Bloyd, naars, Franka Otten G Geoff Fox H Hilde Trent Paton V Vernesa Šaran, Vicky Sims W Brontsema, Hugo Ideler I Ian Stuart, Igor Walter Denzel X Xander Chong De Ruitz J Jaap Timmer, Jacques Erard, Javier Guinea, Jeannette Schönau, Jesper Verhey, Jessica Coombes, John Canty, Julien Guilbert, Juras Vezelis K Katrien Laureyssens
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AUTHOR THANKS
Anna Kaminski
Loren Bell
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
Terima kasih banyak dua kali to every person I met while on the road – from local guides, to the villagers who kept refilling my glass with tuak, to the taxi driver who brought his extended family on our excursion. You are too numerous to name, but it’s the people of Kalimantan that make this place amazing. And a special thank you to Kari – for your love, support, and patience, even when I might not have deserved it.
Stuart Butler
First and foremost I must, once again, thank my wife, Heather, and children, Jake and Grace, for their patience with this project. I know it’s not easy for any of you. I would also like to thank Kosman Kogoya and porters for a great trek. The people of Obia village, Bony Kondahon, Charles Roring, Hans Mandacan, Andreas Ndruru and Bob Palege. Finally, I would like to thank Ben Wallis for being the world’s oldest grom.
Trent Holden
First up a big thanks to Destination Editor Sarah Reid for giving me the opportunity to cover the Bali chapter; it was a dream gig. Thanks also to my fellow authors and the production team in Melbourne for putting this massive book together. Special thanks to all the Balinese people who I had the delight to deal with, whose good nature and humour made my job a joy. A shout out to Gusri Tri Putra, a highly recommended guide (look him up!), and to all the travellers I met on the trip who were full of useful tips and suggestions. Also to Eddie and Lynette, Cameron Munroe and Paul Jacobs for the beers and footy – a small world indeed! Finally, lots of love to my family and my girlfriend, Kate, who I have the great fortune to travel the world with.
THIS BOOK This 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Indonesia guidebook was researched and written by Loren Bell, Stuart Butler, Trent Holden, Anna Kaminski, Hugh McNaughtan, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart and Ryan Ver Berkmoes. The previous edition was researched and written by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Brett Atkinson, Celeste Brash, Stuart Butler, John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart
I would like to thank Sarah for entrusting me with the Sumatra chapter, Brett and Stuart for the contacts and advice, and all who helped me on the road. In particular: Luke in Sungai Penuh; Joshua and Wild Sumatra in Bengkulu; Sumatra Ecotravel in Bukit Lawang; Nachelle Homestay in Berastagi; Darmawan (and Rega) in Singkil and in the Banyaks; Josep and Doris in Ketambe; Annette in Tuk Tuk; Freddie on Pulau Weh; Alessandro, Ade and Harris on the Mentawais; Ulrich, Armando and Ling in Bukittinggi; Brigitte and Bruno in Padang; James and Murray in Krui; and all my drivers.
Hugh McNaughtan
All thanks are due to Tasmin and Sarah. And my little ladies, always.
Adam Skolnick
It’s always a great pleasure to return to Indonesia again and again. Java is a manic mess, but it’s always a blast and I cannot wait to return. Special thanks to Yudhi Suryana, Yuono and Novi Tartousodo, Eno Phadma, Fitri Ciptosari, Jason Wolcott, Brett Black, Made Dex Ati, Putri Indra, Eka, Yus and the whole Clear Café Family. Thanks also to Iain Stewart and the great RVB. Always a pleasure to work with you guys.
Iain Stewart
Thanks to Dodo for the warm welcome at Makassar airport, and his kindness and travel expertise. In Bira, Gavin and Nini helped me when my chips were down. Enos, thanks for your help in Toraja, as well as Adi in Palu and Reza in Luwuk. The Togeans would not have been the same without Fleuriette and the Kadidiri gang. While up in North Sulawesi, Mikel was the expert guide. Special thanks to Ady, dive instructor extraordinaire.
and Paul Stiles. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Sarah Reid Product Editors Jenna Myers, Elizabeth Jones
Regional Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan Assisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Anthony Phelan Book Designer Wendy Wright
Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Carolyn Bain, Imogen
Bannister, Paul Harding, Gabrielle Innes, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Paterson, Monique Perrin, Chris Pitts Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, Daniel Corbett, Grace Dobell, Jane Grisman, Victoria Harrison, Andi Jones, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Kirsten Rawlings, Wibowo Rusli, Vicky Smith, Timothy Stewart-Page, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome, Amanda Williamson
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Ryan Ver Berkmoes
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Cover photograph: Gunungs Penanjakan, Bromo, Batok, and Semeru in Java; Nigel Parvitt/AWL.
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
Many thanks to friends, like the extraordinary Amy Brenneman, Romy and Lola; the incomparable Hanafi; Patticakes, Ibu Cat, Stuart, Rucina and Kerry and Milt Turner. Off-Bali: Amber Clifton, Paul Landgraver, Ilham, Saripa, Philip, Edwin and many, many more were generous with time, ideas and expertise. And Alexis Averbuck, who I once met on Bali and who I married while writing this book.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
800
Index A
accommodation 766-7, see also individual locations language 789-90 Aceh 521-36, 522 history 521 West Coast 529-31 activities 26-7, see also individual activities Agats 488-9 Aikima 481 Air Garam 482 air tickets 777 air travel 776-7, 778 airlines 776-7 airline safety 776 airports 776-7 Lombok International Airport 319 Akelamo 420 Alang 430 Alas Purwo National Park 192-4 alcohol 745-6 alcohol poisoning 215, 772, 787 Allodio 669 Alor Archipelago 378-81 Alor Besar 381 Alor Kecil 381 Amahai 434 Ambarawa 150 Amed 280-2 Amlapura 278 Amlapura Road 271 Ampana 676-7 amusement parks Jakarta 63 Kuta 209 Taman Sriwedari 134 Anemangi 482 animal exploitation 754
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
animals 752-3, see also wildlife Apui 380 archaeological sites Borobudur 106-9 Sangiran 141 Situs Megalitik Tutari 472-3 architecture 734-6 area codes 21, 773 art 124, see also painting arts 733-4, see also crafts Bali 203 Asilulu 430 Asmat Region 488 Astana Giribangun 141 Asu 518 Ateng 380 ATMs 770
B
Ba’a 392 Baing 399 Bajau (people) 682 Bajawa 365-7 Bajawa region 367-8 Bajra Sandhi Monument 238-9 Bakauheni 585 Balangan Beach 229-30, 230 Bali 45, 197-301, 198-9 accommodation 197 activities 214 arts 203 children, travel with 209 culture 201-4 East Bali 266-83, 268 food 197 highlights 198-9, 198-9 history 200-1 internet resources 206 itineraries 28, 28 North Bali 290-8, 291 religion 202 South Bali 206-42, 207
travel seasons 197 travel to/from 204-5 travel within 205-6 West Bali 298-301, 299 Bali Aga (people) 275 Bali Arts Festival 239 Bali Barat National Park 296-8 Bali Bird Park 265 Bali Nine 100, 702 Bali Sea Turtle Society 209 Balian Beach 300 Baliem Valley 16, 477-85, 477, 16 Balikpapan 615-19, 616 Balinese dance 11, 203-4, 262, 11 Balinese names 204 Balla Peu 669 balok 659 Baluran National Park 196 Banda Aceh 521-6, 524 Banda Ely 449 Banda Islands 13, 435-44, 436, 13 history 435 Bandaneira 437-41, 438 accommodation 439-440 activities 439 food 440-1 information 441 sights 437-9 travel to/from 441 travel within 441 Bandarlampung 580-3, 581 Bandung 87-96, 88 accommodation 90 activities 89 drinking 91 entertainment 92 food 90-1 information 92-3 nightlife 91 shopping 92 sights 89 tours 90
travel to/from 93 travel within 93 Bandung region 93-6, 94 Bandung Institute of Technology 89 Bangka Islands 691 Bangkiang Sidem 256 Bangli 267 Banjarbaru 614-15 Banjarmasin 608-12, 610 accommodation 610-11 drinking 611 entertainment 611 food 611 information 611 sights 609 tours 609-10 travel to/from 611-12 travel within 612 Banree 442 Banten 74-5 Bantimurung 647 Banyak Islands 531-4, 532 Banyuwangi 194-5 bargaining 771 Barong 262 Baruppu 663 basketwork 740 Batak Graves (Danau Toba) 511 Batak (people) 509, 512 Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve 557 bathrooms 774 batik 123, 140, 739-40 Batu 178-9 Batu Ampar 598 Batu Angus 416 Batu Beribu 584 Batu Bolong Beach 223 Batu Daya 598 Batu Gajah 584 Batu Gong 565 Batu Karas 101-2 Batu Putih 380 Batu Watlus 449
801 Papua 456 Raja Ampat Islands 460-1 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 695 Ubud 255 bites & stings 788 Bitung 694 Blitar 179-80 Blongas 324 Bo’a 393 boat tours 101, 354 boat travel 777-8, 779-80 boat trips 100 Bali Barat National Park 296-7 Gedang River 530 Seventeen Islands Marine Park 369 Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 683 Bogor 79-83, 81 Bondokodi 406 Bondowoso 187 Boni 393 Bono 515 books 702 Bali 203 Java 52 surfing 519 border crossings 470, 777 Bori 663 Borobudur 12, 106-11, 12 accommodation 109 events 109-10 festivals 109-10 food 110 history 107 information 110-11 sights 107-9 tours 109 travel to/from 111 Borobudur region 110 Borobudur Temple 12, 107-8, 12 Bosnik 476 Boti 388-9 Botohili 520 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 183-8 Buahan 286 Buddhism 708-9, 731 budgeting 20-1 Bugis, the 650 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 585 Bukit Daun 568 Bukit Kaba 568
Bukit Kandis 568 Bukit Lawang 501-3, 535 Bukit Peninsula 229-34 Bukittinggi 550-5, 552 Bukittinggi region 555-8, 556 bull racing 170 Buntu Balla 669 Buntu Pune 664 bus travel 780-1 business hours 771
C
Camp Leakey 601 Candidasa 275, 276-7, 277 Candikuning 287-8 Canggu 225-9, 226 canoeing 559 canyoning, see climbing & canyoning car travel 781 Carita 74-5 Carstensz Pyramid 488 caves Goa Beloyot 632 Goa Gajah 264-5 Goa Hawang 449 Goa Jepang 475 Goa Kacamata 568 Goa Kasah 565 Goa Putri 182 Gua Gong 182 Gua Istana 193 Gua Jepang 551 Gua Kotilola 482 Gua Leang Leang 647 Gua Padepokan 193 Gua Tabuhan 182 Gua Wikuda 483 Liang Bua 364 Pura Goa Lawah 272 celebrations 746-7 cell phones 20, 773 cemeteries Asta Tinggi Cemetery 168 Commonwealth War Cemetery 424 Kherkhof 523 Cempaka Diamond Fields 614 Central Java 102-58, 103 Central Kalimantan 600-8 Central Lombok 306 Central Sulawesi 669-82 history 669, 670 children, travel with 43-4 Bali 209
child-sex tourism 772 chocolate factories 265, 278 Christianity 709, 730 churches & cathedrals Francis Xavier Cathedral 424 Gereja Blenduk 144 Gereja Sion 55 Gereja Tua Hila 430 Cianjur 86-7 Cibodas 85 Cimaja 83-5 Cipanas 95 climate 20, 20 see also individual regions climbing & canyoning 39-41 Gunung Agung 272 Gunung Lawu 142 Gunung Rinjani 318 Labuanbajo 358-9 Papua 488 coffee 68, 664, 745 coffee plantations 557 Conservatorium of Traditional Music 557 consulates 768 cooking courses Bali 217, 236, 254-5, 292, 745 Gili Trawangan 328-9 crafts 736-41 credit cards 770 Cross-Borneo Trek 591 culture 725-41 Bali 201-4 Flores 355 Java 51-2 Kalimantan 587 Papua 454 Sumba 394, 396-7 currency 20, 770 customs regulations 767 cycling 34, 778-9 Danau Toba 511 Gili Air 339 Gili Meno 335-6 Gili Trawangan 328 Nusa Penida 246 Pulau Weh 528 Ubud 255
D
Danau Batur region 286-7 Danau Bratan 287-9, 287 Danau Galela 422 Danau Habbema 484-5 Danau Laguna 417
I N D E X B - D
Batubelig Beach 216 Batur 286 Batutulis 80 Batutumonga 662-3 Bau Bau 698-9 Bawa 518 Bawomataluo 520 Bayan 313 beaches 23-4, 32-4, see also pantai, individual beaches Bira region 648-9 Bukit Peninsula 229 Gili Air 338 Gili Meno 334-5 Gili Trawangan 326-7 Karimunjawa Islands 155 Kerobokan 216, 223 Kuta 208-9 Kuta (Lombok) 320 Legian 209 Ngagelan 193 Nusa Lembongan 242 Seminyak 216 Sire 313 Yogyakarta 126 beadwork 740 becak 782 Bedulu 264-5 Belaragi 367-8 Belimbing 557 Bena 367 Bengkulu 565-7 Bengkulu region 567-8 Benoa Bay Reclamation Project 201 Benteng 652 Benteng Marlborough 566 Benteng Santo Pedro i Paulo 417 Berastagi 505-8, 505 Berau 630-2, 631 Berewa Beach 223 Betung Kerihun National Park 596 Biao 442 bicycle travel 778-9, see also cycling Big Tree Farms 265 Bima 349-50 Bingin 231 bird flu 785 birds 753 birdwatching Manokwari region 466-7 Minahasa region 692 Nirmolo Kaliurang Taman Nasional Gunung Merapi 129
802
I N D E X D - G
Danau Maninjau 558-60, 559 Danau Sentani 472-3 Danau Sentarum National Park 597 Danau Toba 508-14, 510 Danau Tolire Besar 416 dance 733 Bali 11, 203-4, 262, 11 Prambanan 132 Yogyakarta 122 dangers, see safety Dani (people) 477-8, 484, 16 Daru 422 deforestation 755 Demak 150-1 dengue fever 785-6 Denpasar 238-42, 240-1 climate 197 Depan Kampung 444 Derawan Archipelago 633-5 Deri 663 Detusoko 374 diarrhoea 787 Dieng Plateau 103, 105-6 disabilities, travellers with 774 diving 23, 34-5, 787, 13 see also snorkelling Alor Archipelago 379 Banda Islands 437 Bangka Islands 691 Candidasa 276 Derawan Archipelago 634 Donggala 675 Eastern Leihitu 429 Gapang 527 Gili Air 338 Gili Islands 336 Gili Trawangan 327-8 Iboih 528 Jemeluk 280 Komodo 360 Kuta (Lombok) 320 Labuanbajo 356-7, 360 Lipah 280 Lovina 292 Magic Mountain 404 Nusa Ceningan 243 Nusa Lembongan 243 Nusa Penida 243, 246 Padangbai 273-4 Pantai Bira 649 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Pemuteran 295 Pulau Ambon 430-1 Pulau Biak 473-4 Pulau Bunaken 689 Pulau Kadidiri 680 Pulau Menjangan 297 Pulau Moyo 346 Pulau Rubiah 528 Pulau Weh 526 Raja Ampat Islands 458-60 Sangihe-Talaud Islands 696 Sanur 236 Selang 280 Senggigi 309 Tanjung Karang 675 Togean Islands 678 Triton Bay 466 Tulamben 282-3 Dokan 506 dokar 782 dolphin-watching Kalimantan 625, 627 Komodo National Park 352 Sulawesi 675, 695 Lovina 292 Donggala 675-6 Double Six Beach 209 drinking water 788 drinks 745-6, see also alcohol, coffee language 791-2 driving 781 road trips 640 drugs 772 Duda 271 Dukono 422
E
earthquakes 517 East Bali 266-83, 268 East Java 158-96, 159 East Kalimantan 615-35 East Lombok 306 East Sumba 398-9 East Sumbawa 346-7 Eastern Halmahera 422 Eastern Leihitu 429-30 Echo Beach 223, 225, 227, 228, 226 economy 703 Eel Traps 671 Ekas 322-3 Elat 449 electricity 768 elephant bathing 504
elephant conservation 568 Elephant Safari Park 266 elephants 583 embassies 768 emergencies language 792 endangered species 757-8 Ende 370-2, 371 environment 751-60 environmental hazards 787-8 environmental issues 754, 755 Bali 201 Bangka Islands 691 Gili Islands 331 Java 155 Kalimantan 607 Nusa Tenggara 359 etiquette 704, 746 Sumatra 554 events 26-7 exchange rates 21
F
festivals & events 26-7, see also individual locations Baliem Valley Festival 478 Banyuwangyi Festival 195 Bunaken Festival 688 Erau International Folk & Art Festival 624 Festival Danau Poso 671 Festival Danau Sentani 471 Festival of Borobudur 109 Festival Teluk Kendari 697 Gawai Dayak Festival 591 horse racing 349, 551 Kasada 185 Nyale 320 Nyepi 202 Pasola 405 Waisak 109 films 702 floating homestays 627 Flores 354-78, 356-7 culture 355 history 365 itineraries 355 travel to/from 355 travel within 355-6 food 18, 742-50, 768-9, 18 see also individual locations
children 748 cooking courses 745 dining out 747-8 fruit 747 language 749-50, 790-1 Padang cuisine 541 Palembang cuisine 578 regional flavours 742-5 street food 748 vegetarian 748 Fort Rotterdam 640 forts Benteng Amsterdam 430 Benteng Belgica 437 Benteng Bontobangun 652 Benteng Duurstede 432 Benteng Hollandia 442 Benteng Kalamata 410 Benteng Nassau 437 Benteng Oranye 410 Benteng Revenge 443 Benteng Sungguminasa 641 Benteng Tahula 417 Benteng Tolukko 410 Benteng Torre 417 Benteng Victoria 424 freediving 282, 328, 356
G
galleries, see museums & galleries Gallubakul 403 gamelan 204 Gamtala 420 Gapang 527-8 gardens, see parks & gardens Garut 95-6 Gede Pangrango National Park 85-6 Gerupuk 322 Gianyar 266-7 giardiasis 787 gibbon 758, 18, see also individual locations gifts 737, 740 Gili Air 338-42, 340 accommodation 339-41 drinking 341 food 341 nightlife 341 travel to/from 342 Gili Islands 15, 324-42, 325, 15 safety 333 responsible travel 332
803 Gunung Rinjani 315-18, 316, 17, 36 Gunung Semeru 187 Gunung Sibayak 505-6 Gunung Singgalang 558 Gunung Sitoli 517-18 Gunung Tambora 347 Gurah Recreation Forest 535
H
Habibie, BJ 721 Harau Valley 558 health 784-8 internet resources 785 health care 785 heat exhaustion 787 heatstroke 787-8 hepatitis A 786 hepatitis B 786 herbal medicines 145 hiking & trekking 23, 39-41, 763-4, 36 Amed 280 Bali Barat National Park 297 Baliem Valley 482-3 Baluran National Park 196 Bengkulu region 568 Beringin Tiga 568 Bukit Lawang 501-2, 535 Curug Embun 568 Cross-Borneo Trek 591 Danau Maninjau 559 Danau Toba 511 Gunung Agung 271-2 Gunung Batur 284 Gunung Kemiri 535 Gunung Kerinci 564 Gunung Leuser 535 Gunung Leuser National Park 501, 504 Gunung Merapi 127-8 Gunung Paru 106 Gunung Rinjani 315-17 Gunung Sibayak 505-6 Gurah Recreation Forest 535 Kerinci Seblat National Park 565 Ketambe 535 Komodo 351-2 Loksado 613 Lore Lindu National Park 673 Lovina 292 Mamasa 667 Manokwari region 466
Mentawai Islands 544-5 Minahasa region 692 Muller Mountains 629 Munduk 288 Pusuk Buhit 511 Renah Kemumu 565 Sembalun Valley 315 Senggigi 309 Southern Baliem Valley 486-7 Tana Toraja 661-2 Tana Toraja region 665 Tangkahan 504 Tirta Gangga 279 Hila 430 Hilimaetaniha 520-1 Hilinawalo Mazingo 520 Hilisimaetano 520 Hinduism 708-9, 731 historic buildings Hatta’s House 437-8 Istana Bogor 80 Istana Mini 439 Lamin Batu Bura 626-7 Lawang Sewu 145 Makatita Hall 439 Mancong Longhouse 627 Schelling House 438-9 Watchtower 57 history 705-24, see also individual regions Aceh 722 Arabian traders 706 Chinese settlers 706 coup 717-18, 719 democracy 716-17 Diponegoro War 712 Dutch rule 711-13 East Timor 721 Ethical Policy 713 independence 713-16 Indian settlers 705-6 Islam 708-10 Majapahit 707 nationalism 715-16 New Order 719-20 Pancasila 714 Papua 722 Portuguese traders 707 religion 708-9 rulers 710-11 spice trade 707 Suharto 718-20 Sukarno 718-19 Sukarno, Megawati 721-2 Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (SBY) 723 trade 705-6
Wahid, Abdurrahman 721-2 Widodo, Joko (Jokowi) 723-4 WWII 715 hitching 781 HIV 786 hobbits 365 Hoku Hoku 420 holidays 772 homestays 627 hot springs Air Panas 565 Air Panas Situs 2 565 Air Panas Soa 366 Bajawa 366 Batur Natural Hot Spring 286-7 Cipanas 85 Gracia Spa 93 Grao Sakti 565 Loksado 613 Lombongo Hot Springs 683 Muara Tanuhi Hot Springs 613 Sari Ater Hot Spring Resort 93 Semangat Gunung 506 Songgoriti 178 Sumber Brantas 178 Toya Bungkah 286-7 House of Rafflesia Luwak Coffee 557 Hu’u 347-9
I
Iboih 528-9 Ijen Plateau 188-90 ikat 389, 394, 738-9 immigration 776 Imogiri 127 infectious diseases 785-7 insurance 768-9, 784 internet access 769 internet calling 773 internet resources 21 Irrawaddy dolphins 625 Islam 709, 728-30 islands 23 Istana Mangkunegaran 134 itineraries 28-31, 28, 29, 30, 31
J
Jailolo 420 Jakarta 52-73, 54 accommodation 61-3 activities 59-60
I N D E X G -J
travel to/from 324-6 travel within 326 Gili Meno 334-8, 335 accommodation 337 drinking 337-8 food 337-8 shopping 338 travel to/from 338 Gili Mimpang 276 Gili Tepekong 276 Gili Trawangan 326-34, 327, 329, 15 accommodation 329-32 drinking 333-4 food 332-3 nightlife 333-4 shopping 334 travel to/from 334 Gilimanuk 298 Goa Kacamata 568 Godang 313 Gomo 520 Gorontalo 683-4 graves Kambira Baby Graves 666 Lemo 665 Tampangallo 666 Gua Leang Leang 647 Gundaling Hill 506 Gunongan 523 Gunung Agung 271-2 Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Reserve 177 Gunung Baru 315, 17 Gunung Batukau region 289-90 Gunung Batur 284-5, 285 Gunung Batur region 285-6 Gunung Bromo 183-8, 7 Gunung Dempo 584 Gunung Gendero 156 Gunung Kawi 266 Gunung Kelud 180-1 Gunung Kemiri 535 Gunung Kerinci 564 Gunung Krakatau 77, 78, 585 Gunung Kunyit 565 Gunung Lawu 141-3 Gunung Leuser 535 Gunung Leuser National Park 18, 501, 504, 534-6, 18 Gunung Mambulilin 669 Gunung Merapi 127-8, 558 Gunung Palung 599 Gunung Papandayan 95 Gunung Penanggungan 178
804
I N D E X J - L
Jakarta continued central Jakarta 57-9, 58 children, travel with 63 Cikini 62, 65-6 climate 48 clubbing 67 drinking 67-9 events 61 entertainment 69 festivals 61 food 63-7 Glodok 57, 65 history 53 information 70-1 internet resources 71 Jalan Jaksa area 61-2, 64-5, 64 Kemang 66 Kota 53, 55, 65, 56 Menteng 62, 65-6 nightlife 12, 67-9, 12 Senopati 66-7 shopping 69-70 sights 53, 55-7, 59 South Jakarta 60 Sunda Kelapa 55-7, 65, 56 tours 60 travel to/from 71-3 travel within 72-3 Jam Gadang 551 Jambi 573-7 history 574 jamu 145 Jantur 626 Japanese B encephalitis 786 Jarajara 422 Java 45, 48-196 accommodation 48 Central Java 102-58, 103 culture 51-2 East Java 158-96, 159 food 48 highlights 49, 49 history 50-1 itineraries 29, 29 literature 52 travel seasons 48 travel to/from 52 travel within 52 West Java 74-102, 76 Java Man 51 Jayapura 467-70, 468, 472 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Jembatan Merah 160-1 Jember 190 Jembrana Coast 301 Jepara 153-4 jewellery 741 Jimbaran 229 Jimbaran Beach 229 Jiwika 481-2 Jouburiki 417 jungle river journeys 586
K
Kabonduk 403 Kahale 404 Kalabahi 378-80 Kalabahi region 380-1 Kaliadem 128-9 Kalibaru 190-1 Kalimantan 46, 586-635, 586, 588-9 accommodation 586 Central Kalimantan 600-8 culture 587 East Kalimantan 615-35 highlights 588-9, 588-9 history 587 itineraries 31, 31 jungle river journeys 586 North Kalimantan 635 safety 590 South Kalimantan 608-14 travel seasons 586 travel to/from 587, 590 travel within 590 West Kalimantan 590-600 wildlife 587 Kaliurang 128-9 Kallala 399 Kampung Lama 442 Kampung Paranobaroro 406 Kampung Pasunga 403 Kampung Tambelar 399 Kandangan 612-13 Kapuas Hulu 14, 590, 14 Karang 110 Karasik 664 Karimata Islands 599 Karimunjawa Islands 14, 154-8, 14 Kartini, Raden Ajeng 153 Kartini Day 153 Kawah Papandayan 96 Kawangu 398 kayaking 39
Banyak Islands 532 Gili Air 338 Raja Ampat Islands 461 Kebun Balawan 188 Kebun Raya 80, 81 Kecak 262 Kedah 534-5 Kedisan 286 Kefamenanu 389-90 Kefamenanu region 390-1 Kei Islands 444-9, 446-7 Kelaisi 380 Kelimutu 372-3 Kelimutu National Park 372-3 Kemala Beach 615 Kendari 697-8, 697 Kerinci Seblat National Park 563-5 Kerinci Valley 18, 560-3, 18 Kerobokan 19, 216-25, 218-19, 19 accommodation 219-21 activities 216-17 food 222-3 shopping 224-5 sights 216 travel to/from 225 Kerobokan jail 216 Kersik Tua 562 Ketambe 535 Ketambe Research Station 535 Ke’te Kesu 664-5 Kherkhof 523 Kilometer 0 528 Kimbim 484 King Sidabutar Grave 509 Kintamani 286 kitesurfing 38-9 Pantai Lakey 347-8 Sanur 235 klotok 600 Klungkung, see Semarapura Klungkung Palace 268-9 Kolaka 696-7 Kole 669 Komodo 351-3, 351 Komodo dragons 353, 753, 10-11 Komodo National Park 11, 352 Kopidil 380 Korowai Region 489 Kota Ambon 424-9, 425 accommodation 425-6 activities 425 drinking 427
nightlife 427 food 426-7 shopping 427 sights 424 travel to/from 428 travel within 428-9 Kota Bangun 625 Kota Biak 473-5, 474 Kota Gede 113 Kota Saparua 431-2 Kota Ternate 410-16, 414 Koto Gadang 551, 556 Krakatau Monument 580 kratons, see also palaces Kraton (Bau Bau) 698 Kraton (Sumenep) 168 Kraton Surakarta 134 Kraton (Yogyakarta) 111-12 kretek cigarettes 151 kris 740-1 Krui 578-80 Kudus 151-2 Kumai 603 Kupa Kupa 422 Kupang 382-6, 384 Kupang region 386 Kusamba 272 Kuta (Bali) 206-16, 208, 210-11 accommodation 209, 212-13 activities 209 drinking 213-15 emergency services 215 food 213 information 215 nightlife 213-15 shopping 215 sights 208-9 travel to/from 216 travel within 216 Kuta Beach 208 Kuta (Lombok) 319-22 Kuta (Lombok) region 322-4 Kutai National Park 630 KWPLH Balikpapan 619
L
Labuan 77 Labuanbajo 356-63, 358 accommodation 359-61 drinking 361-2 food 361-2 tours 359 travel to/from 362-3 travel within 363
805 Liang Bua 364 Liberty shipwreck 282, 283 lifestyle 726-7 Lingga 506 literature 702, see also books Litikaha 404 live music 122-3, see also music liveaboards Alor Archipelago 378 Banda Islands 437 Labuanbajo 356-7 Raja Ampat Islands 463 local issues 758-60 local languages 793 local transport 782 Loko 669 Lokomata 663 Loksado 613-14 Lolori 420 Lombok 304-24, 28, 305 Central Lombok 306 itineraries 28, 28 East Lombok 306 North Lombok 306 regions 306 South Lombok 306 travel to/from 304 travel within 304-5 West Lombok 306 Londa 664 Londolima 398 Long Bagun 629 Long Bawan 635 Long Beach 529 Long Punjungan 635 longhouses Betang Buana Tengah 597 Betang Sadap 597 Melapi 1 597 lontar palm 392 Lonthoir 442 Lore Lindu National Park 673 Lovina 292-5, 294-5 Luari 422 Luba 367 Luwuk 676
M
Madandan 664 Mahu 432-3 Mainang 380 Makale 660 Makassar 640-7, 642 accommodation 641-4
climate 636 drinking 644-5 entertainment 645 food 644 information 645-6 nightlife 644-5 shopping 645 sights 640-1 travel to/from 646 travel within 646-7 Makassar region 647 Malabo 669 Malang 169-75, 172 Malang region 175-9, 176 malaria 786 Malaysia, travel to/from 569 Malifut 422 Malino 647 Malisu 404 Maluk 343-5 Maluku 46, 407-49, 31, 408 accommodation 407 food 407, 426 highlights 408, 408 itineraries 31, 31 North Maluku 409-22 travel seasons 407 travel to/from 409 travel within 409 Mamasa 667-8, 668 Mamasa Valley 666-70 Manado 684-8, 685 accommodation 685-6 food 686-7 history 684 information 687 sights & activities 684-5 travel to/from 687 travel within 687-8 Mancong 627 Manggarai Country 363-5 Manokwari 463-5, 464 Manokwari region 466-7 Manta 669 Manuakalada 403 maps 770 Marante 665 Marimbati 420 marine conservation 460 marine life 460, 466, 695, 753 markets ikat 370, 389 Kintamani 286 Pasar Atas 551 Pasar Beringharjo 113
Pasar Bolu 654 Pasar Bunga 171 Pasar Gede 140 Pasar Klewer 140 Pasar Legi 179 Pasar Pasty 113 Pasar Syketeng 345 Pasar Triwindu 140 Petak Sembilan Street Market 57 Semarapura Market 269 Sukawati Market 265 Mas 265-6 masks 736 Masohi 434 massages, see also spas Jakarta 59-60, 89 Labuanbajo 359 Malang 171 Senggigi 309-10 Mataram 305-7 climate 302 Mataram region 307-8 Maumere 375-7 Maumere region 377-8 Mawan 323 Mawi 323 measures 769 Medan 494-500, 496-7 accommodation 495, 497-8 drinking 499 food 498-9 information 499 sights 495 tours 495 travel to/from 499 travel within 499-500 Medewi 301 media 769 medical services 785 megalithic monuments 584 Melak 628 Melaka, travel to/from 569 Melang 380 Memboro 403 Mendira 275 Mendoe 664 Mendut Temple & Monastery 109 Mentawaian (people) 547 Mentawai Islands 544-50, 544 Merabu 632 Merak 74 Merauke 485-6 Meru Betiri National Park 191-2 Mesa Kada 669
I N D E X L- M
Labuhan Lombok 324 Lagoi 573 Lagundri 519 Laha 430 Lahusa Idanotae 520 Lake Jempang 626-7 lakes Danau Anak Laut 528 Danau Gunung Tujuh 564 Danau Kaco 564-5 Danau Kerinci 565 Danau Linow 693 Danau Maninjau 558-9 Danau Poso 670 Danau Segara Anak 315 Danau Tempe 653 Danau Tondano 693 Kawah Candradimuka 105 Kawah Sikidang 105 Kawah Sileri 106 Lake Tebo 632 Telaga Warna 105 Lakwati 380 Lambaro 523 Lampulo 523 Lampung 580-5 Lampu’uk 529-30 Langda 664 Langgur 444-7, 445 language 20, 726, 789-96 Larantuka 378 Larike 430 Lease Islands 431-3, 432 legal matters 769 Legian 206-16 208, 210-11 accommodation 209, 212-13 activities 209 drinking 213-15 food 213 information 215 nightlife 213-15 shopping 215 sights 208-9 travel to/from 216 travel within 216 Legian Beach 209 Legong 262 Lela 375 Lembar 308 Lembeh Strait 694-5 Lembomawo 672 Lemboya 404 Lerohoilim 449 LGBT travellers 769-70 Lhok Nga 529-30 Lhong Anden 528
806
I N D E X M - N
Mesjid Wapaue 430 Minahasa region 692 Minangkabau (people) 537, 557 mobile phones 20, 773 Mokwam 466 Mombang 380 money 20, 21, 770 moneychangers 770-1 Moni 373-4 Monumen Kapal Selam 161 monuments 717 Bajra Sandhi Monument 238-9 Gunung Kawi 266 Krakatau Monument 580 Makam Bung Karno 179 Memorial Wall 209 Monas 59 Tirta Empul 266 Tugu Jepang 465 Tugu Khatulistiwa 591 Tugu MacArthur 472 mosques 730, 736 Islamic Center 619 Majolica Ulama Indonesia 410 Mantingan 154 Masjid Agung At-Taqwa 615 Masjid al Akbar 161 Masjid Al Taqwa 442 Masjid Amirul Mukminin 641 Masjid Jami Babussholah 381 Masjid Raya al-Fatah 424 Masjid Shirathal Mustaqiem 619 Masjid Sultan Suriansyah 609 Mesjid Agung 134, 151 Mesjid Agung Pondok Tinggi 561 Mesjid Besar 144 Mesjid Hatta-Syahrir 439 Mesjid Jamik 168 Mesjid Raya 495 Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman 522 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 609 Royal Mosque 410 motorcycle travel 511, 781 Muara Jambi 574-5 Muara Muntai 625-6 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Muara Pahu 627 Muller Mountains 591, 629-30 multiculturalism 727-8 Muncan 271 Munduk 288-9 Mupi Gunung 467 museums & galleries Adityawarman Museum 538 Affandi Museum 113 Agung Rai Museum of Art 250-1 Ambarawa Train Station Museum 150 Balai Seni Rupa 55 Blambangan Museum 194 Blanco Renaissance Museum 251 Hotel Tugu Malang 170 House of Danar Hadi 134 House of Sampoerna 160 Istana Kadriah 590 Istana Mangkunegaran 134 Karmawibhangga archaeological museum 108 Keraton 410 Kraton Surakarta 134 Lampung Provincial Museum 580 Lembaga Studi & Pelestarian Budaya Sumba 402 Merapi Museum 129 Mulawarman Museum 624 Museum Asi Mbojo 349 Museum Bahari 57 Museum Balanga 605 Museum Balla Lompoa 641 Museum Bank Indonesia 55 Museum Bank Mandiri 55 Museum Buleleng 290 Museum Huta Bolon Simanindo 510-11 Museum Kailasa Dieng 105 Museum Kapal Samurrarska 109 Museum Kareta Kraton 113 Museum Kebudayaan dan Kemajuan Asmat 488 Museum Konperensi 89 Museum Lambung
Mangkurat 614 Museum Le Mayeur 235 Museum Loka Budaya 467 Museum Nasional 57 Museum Negeri Banda Aceh 522 Museum Negeri La Galigo 640 Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 238 Museum of North Sumatra 495 Museum Provinsi Kalimantan Barat 590 Museum Puri Lukisan 249 Museum Pusaka Nias 517 Museum Rudana 251 Museum Sasana Wiratama 113 Museum Sejarah Jakarta 55 Museum Semarajaya 269 Museum Siwalima 424 Museum Sukarno 179 Museum Sumatera Selatan 577 Museum Wayang 55 Musium Bung Karno 370 Neka Art Museum 250 Neka Gallery 251 Pakualaman Kraton 113 Pasifika Museum 233 Public Museum of North Sulawesi 684 Pusat Kebudayaan Wolio 698 Radya Pustaka Museum 134 Ronggowarsito Museum 145 Royal Carriage-House Museum 168 Rumah Aceh 522-3 Rumah Budaya 439 Setia Darma House of Masks & Puppets 266 Sono-Budoyo Museum 112-13 Sonyine Malige 418 Textile Museum 59 Trowulan Museum 166 Tsunami Museum 523 Ullen Sentalu 128 music 733-4, see also live music Mussa 669 myths 563
N
Nabire 476 Nabucco 634 Nagoya 571-2 Namano 434 Nanggala 665 Napabale 699 national identity 725-6 national parks & reserves 755-6 Aketajawe-Lolobata National Park 422 Alas Purwo National Park 192-4 Bali Barat National Park 296-8 Baluran National Park 196 Bangkiriang Nature Reserve 676 Betung Kerihun National Park 596 Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 683 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 183-8 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 585 Bunaken Manado Tua Marine National Park 688 Danau Sentarum National Park 597 Gede Pangrango National Park 85-6 Gunung Arjuna-Lalijiwo Reserve 177 Gunung Leuser National Park 18, 501, 504, 534-6, 18 Gunung Palung National Park 598 Kayan Mentarang National Park 635 Kelimutu National Park 372-3 Kerinci Seblat National Park 563-5 Komodo National Park 11, 352 Kutai National Park 630 Lore Lindu National Park 673 Meru Betiri National Park 191-2 Nirmolo Kaliurang Taman Nasional Gunung Merapi 129 Pangandaran National Park 96 Sebangau National Park 609
807
O
Obama, Barack 62
Obia 482 Oebelo 386 Oelolok 390 Oenesu 386 Oesao 386 Oeseli 393 Ohoidertawun 447-8 Oinlasi 388 ojek 782 Omo Hada 520 opening hours 771 Ora 434 orang pendek 563 Orang Rimba (people) 575 Orangutan Feeding Centre 501 orangutans 501, 601, 752, 12 Orobua 669 Osango 669 Ouw 433
P
Pacitan 181 packing 775 Padaido Islands 476 Padang 537-43, 540 accommodation 539-41 climate 490 events 539 drinking 541-2 festivals 539 food 541-2 information 542 shopping 542 sights 538 tours 538-9 travel to/from 542 travel within 543 Padang Padang 231-2 Padang region 543 Padangbai 272-5, 273 Paga 374-5 painting 734 Bali 203 palaces Dalam Loka 345 Istana Bogor 80 Istana Kuning 603-4 Istana Maimoon 495 Istana Mangkunegaran 134 Istana Pangeran Mangkubumi 604 Istano Silinduang Bulan 557 Klungkung Palace 268-9 Puri Agung Karangasem 278
Puri Gede 278 Rumah Bolon 506 Rumah Gadang Pagaruyung 556-7 Taman Sari 112 Taman Tirta Gangga 278-9 Ubud Palace 249 Paladan 669 Palangka Raya 605-8, 606 Palawa 663 Palembang 577-8 Palu 674-5, 674 Pampang 621 Pana 663 Panataran 180 Pandai Sikat 556 Pangala 663 Pangandaran 96-100, 98 Pangandaran National Park 96 Pangandaran region 101-2 Pangkalan Bun 603-5, 604 Pangli 663 pantai, see also beaches, individual locations Pantai Akasahu 418 Pantai Bandengan 154 Pantai Bara 648 Pantai Barat 648-9 Pantai Base G 467 Pantai Batuaga 698 Pantai Bira 647-52, 648 Pantai Bungus 543 Pantai Daftel 449 Pantai Etreat 404 Pantai Kajoli 418 Pantai Karlen 422 Pantai Keramas 267 Pantai Koka 375 Pantai Lakeba 698 Pantai Lakey 347-9 Pantai Madale 672 Pantai Malole 439 Pantai Marau 476 Pantai Marosi 404 Pantai Matako 672 Pantai Naga 375 Pantai Nihiwatu 404 Pantai Nirwana 698 Pantai Ohoidertutu 449 Pantai Panjang 566 Pantai Pasir Putih 464 Pantai Radukapal 406 Pantai Segar 322 Pantai Segara Indah 476 Pantai Sorake 519 Pantai Tanjung Gelam 155
Pantai Tanjung Sanghyang 242 Pantai Tarikaha 404 Pantai Timur 649 Pantai Toini 672 Pantai Trikora 573 Pantai Wanakoka 404 Pantar 380 Papua 46, 450-89, 452-3 accommodation 450 culture 454 food 450 highlights 452-3, 452-3 history 451, 454 itineraries 30, 30 safety 456 South Papua 485-9 tours 455-6 travel permits 455 travel seasons 450 travel to/from 456 travel within 456 travel warnings 456 West Papua 457-67 wildlife 454 Papua New Guinea 470 Parapat 508 Pare Pare 653-4 Parinding 663 parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves Bali Botanic Garden 287-8 Kebun Raya 80 Kebun Raya Cibodas 85 Kebun Raya Purwodadi 177 Taman Burung & Taman Anggrek 475 Taman Nasional Gunung Halimun 83 Pasalat 601 Pasemah Highlands 584 Pasir Panjang 448-9 Pasir Putih 279 Pasola 405 Pass Valley 483-4 passports 776 Pattimura 434 Payakumbuh 558 Payogan 256 Pegunungan Arfak 466-7 Pekanbaru 569-70 Pelabuhan Paotere 640-1 Pelompek 563 Pemuteran 295-6 Pendolo 670 Penelokan 285-6
I N D E X N - P
Taka Bone Rate Marine National Park 652 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 695-6 Tanjung Api National Park 677 Tanjung Puting National Park 12, 600-2, 12 Ujung Kulon National Park 77-9 Wakatobi Marine National Park 699 Wasur National Park 487-8 Way Kambas National Park 583-4 Natsepa 429 Negara 613 Nelayan Beach 223 Nemberala 392-3 Nemberala region 393-4 Ngada (people) 368 Ngarai Sianok 551 Nglipoh 110 Ngurdu 449 Niassan (people) 515-16 Nolloth 433 None 387-8 North Bali 290-8, 291 North Coast 144, 175 Northern Leihitu 430-1 Northern Papua 467-76 Northern Seram 434-7 North Kalimantan 635 North Lombok 306 North Maluku 409-22 North Sulawesi 682-96 history 682 North Sumatra 494-514 Nunukan Island 634 Nusa Ceningan 243, 246 Nusa Dua 233-4 Nusa Lembongan 242-6, 244 Nusa Penida 243, 246-7 Nusa Tenggara 45, 302406, 303 accommodation 302 beaches 302 highlights 303, 303 itineraries 30, 30 travel seasons 302 travel to/from 304 travel within 304 Nyepi 202
808
I N D E X P - R
Penggosokkan Intan 614 Penujak 319 Penulisan 286 peoples Bali Aga 275 Bajau 682 Batak 509, 512 Dani 477-8, 484, 16 Ethnic Timorese 390 Mentawaian 547 Minangkabau 537, 557 Ngada 368 Niassan 515-16 Toraja 660-1 Pererenan Beach 223 Pero 406 pharmacies 785 photography 771 Piladang 558 planning, see also individual regions budgeting 20-1 calendar of events 26-7 children 43-4 Indonesia basics 20-1 Indonesia highlights 8-9 Indonesia’s regions 45-6 internet resources 21 itineraries 28-31 outdoors 32-42 repeat visitors 22 travel seasons 20, 26-7 plants 754 plastic problem 155 politics 702-3 pollution 155, 772, 787 Pondok Ambung 601 Pondok Tanggui 601 Pontianak 590-6, 592 accommodation 591-3 climate 586 entertainment 593 food 593 information 594 shopping 594 sights 590-1 tours 591 travel to/from 594-6 travel within 596 population 703 pornography 732 Poso 672 postal services 771-2 Poto 346
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Poto Tano 342-3 Praigoli 404 Praiijing 399 Prai Klembung 399 Prai Liang 398 Prailiu 398 Prai Natang 398 Praiyawang 398-9 Prambanan 130-3 Prancak Beach 223 Praya 319 Prem 488 Probolinggo 182-3 public holidays 772 Pulau Ai 443-4 Pulau Ambon 423-31, 423 climate 407 history 423 travel to/from 424 Pulau Asei 473 Pulau Asok 531 Pulau Balai 531 Pulau Banda Besar 442 Pulau Bangkaru 531-2 Pulau Batam 570-2 Pulau Batu Daka 679-80 Pulau Biak 473-6, 473 Pulau Bidadari 73 Pulau Bintan 572-3 Pulau Bobale 422 Pulau Bunaken 16, 688-92, 688, 16 Pulau Datok Beach 599 Pulau Derawan 633-4 Pulau Do’o 393 Pulau Gunung Api 441-2 Pulau Halmahera 418-22, 419 Pulau Hatta 442-3 Pulau Hiri 416 Pulau Hoga 700 Pulau Kadidiri 680 Pulau Kakaban 634, 635 Pulau Kaledupa 700 Pulau Karimunjawa 154 Pulau Katupat 681 Pulau Kayangan 647 Pulau Kei Besar 449 Pulau Kei Kecil 447-9 Pulau Laman 531 Pulau Lambodong 532 Pulau Lembeh 694-5 Pulau Lihukan 652 Pulau Macan 73-4 Pulau Madura 166-7 Pulau Maitara 418 Pulau Malenge 681
Pulau Mansinam 463-4 Pulau Maratua 634 Pulau Mare 418 Pulau Menjangan 297 Pulau Meoswarek 476 Pulau Molana 433 Pulau Morotai 422 Pulau Moyo 346 Pulau Ndana 393 Pulau Ndao 393-4 Pulau Neilaka 444 Pulau Neira 439 Pulau Nias 515-21, 516 history 515 safety 516 travel to/from 516 Pulau Owi 476 Pulau Pagang 543 Pulau Palambak 531 Pulau Penyenget 572-3 Pulau Pura 379 Pulau Ragu-Ragu 532 Pulau Raja 434 Pulau Rubiah 528 Pulau Run (Rhun) 443, 444 Pulau Rurbas Besar 476 Pulau Rurbas Kecil 476 Pulau Samalona 647 Pulau Sangalaki 634, 635 Pulau Saparua 431-3 Pulau Selayar 652 Pulau Seram 433-5, 433 Pulau Sikandang 532 Pulau Simeulue 530-1 Pulau Tabuhan 194 Pulau Tailanda 532 Pulau Tanimbar Kei 449 Pulau Ternate 410-17, 411-12 Pulau Ternate (Alor Archipelago) 379 Pulau Tidore 417-18, 417 Pulau Tiga 430 Pulau Tikus 566 Pulau Togean 681 Pulau Tomia 700 Pulau Tuangku 532 Pulau Una Una 681 Pulau Walea Kodi 682 Pulau Weh 526-9 Pulau Wundi 476 Puncak Ketepu 632 Puncak Lawang 559 Pune 422 puppetry 122 puppets 266, 512, 741 Pura Besakih 270-1
Pura Gamang Pass 277-8 Pura Taman Ayun 301, 24 puras, see also temples Pura Batu Bolong 309 Pura Batur 286 Pura Besakih 270-1 Pura Bukit Tageh 269 Pura Dalem Agung 251 Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped 246 Pura Dalem Penunggekan 267 Pura Desa Ubud 250 Pura Jagatnatha 238 Pura Kehen 267 Pura Lempuyang 279 Pura Lingsar 307 Pura Luhur Batukau 289 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 232 Pura Marajan Agung 249 Pura Penataran Agung 270-1 Pura Petitenget 216 Pura Puncak Penulisan 286 Pura Taman Ayun 301, 24 Pura Taman Saraswati 250 Pura Tanah Lot 298 Pura Ulun Danu Bratan 287, 4-5 Puru Kambera 398 Purwodadi 177 Putussibau 597 Pyramid 484
R
rabies 786-7 rafting 39 Ketambe 535 Loksado 613 Tana Toraja 662 Raha 699 Raja Ampat Islands 13, 458-63, 459, 13, 36 accommodation 461-3 activities 458-61 travel to/from 463 travel within 463 Ramadan 323, 332, 729 Rangda 262 Rante Balla 669 Rante Buda 668 Rantepao 654-60, 655 Rante Sopang 669 Rantung 343-5 Ratenggaro 406
809
S
Saba 476 Sabang 527 Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary 251 Sa’dan 663 Sade 319 safaris 565 safety 772-3, see also alcohol poisoning Saleman 434 Samarinda 619-23, 620 sambal 744 Samboja Lestari 619 Samosir Island 511 Sangihe-Talaud Islands 696 Sangiran 141 Sanur 234-8, 235 Sape 350 Sawai 434 scams 773 Sebangau National Park 609 Seblat Elephant Conservation Centre 568
Sedahan 599 Sedahan Village 599 Sekongkang 343-5 Sekonyer Village 600 Selamon 442 Selat 271 Selo 130 Selong Blanak 323 Semangat Gunung 506 Semarang 144-50, 146-7 accommodation 145-7 drinking 149 entertainment 149 food 147-8 nightlife 149 sights 144-5 travel to/from 149-50 travel within 150 Semarang Harbour 145 Semarapura 267-9 Sembalun Valley 315 Sembungan 106 Seminyak 216-25, 208, 218-19 accommodation 217, 219 activities 216-17 drinking 223-4 food 221-2 information 225 nightlife 223-4 shopping 224-5 sights 216 travel to/from 225 Seminyak Beach 216 Senaru 313-15 Senggarang 573 Senggigi 309-13, 310 Sengkang 653 Sentani 471-2, 471, 472 Sentani region 472-3 Seventeen Islands Marine Park 369 Sibang 265 Sibetan 271 Sibolga 514 Sidangoli 422 Sidemen road 269-70 Siguntu 664 Sikka 375 Silk Weaving Workshops 653 silver 124 Singaraja 290, 292 Singkawang 594 Singkil 530-1 Sintang 596 Sirombu 518
smoking 151, 769 snorkelling 23, 35, 37, 36 see also diving Banyak Islands 532 Candidasa 276 Donggala 675 Gili Islands 339 Gili Meno 336 Gili Trawangan 327-8 Jemeluk 280 Komodo 360 Labuanbajo 356-7, 360 Lovina 292 Nabire 476 Nusa Lembongan 243 Padangbai 273-4 Pantai Bira 649 Pemuteran 295 Pulau Biak 473-4 Pulau Bunaken 689 Pulau Kadidiri 680 Pulau Moyo 346 Pulau Rubiah 528 Pulau Weh 526 Raja Ampat Islands 460 Sangihe-Talaud Islands 696 Senggigi 309 Tanjung Karang 675 Tulamben 282-3 Soasio 417-18 Soe 386-7 Soe region 387-9 Sofifi 420 Soinrat 449 Solo (Surakarta) 133-41, 136-7 accommodation 136-8 activities 134-5 courses 135 disaster 135 drinking 138-9 entertainment 139 events 135 festivals 135 food 138-9 history 133 shopping 139-40 sights & activities 134-5 tours 135 tradition 135 travel to/from 140-1 travel within 141 songket 739 Sorake 519 Sorong 457-8 climate 450
Sosrowijayan area 117 South Bali 206-42, 207 South Coast 167 South Kalimantan 608-14 South Lombok 306 South Papua 485-9 South Sulawesi 639-66 history 639-40 South Sumatra 577-80 South-Coast Beaches 179 South-Central Sumba 399 Southeast Sulawesi 696-700 history 696 Southern Kei Kecil 449 Southern Leitimur 429 Southwestern Peninsula 308-9 spas, see also massage Gili Air 339 Gili Trawangan 328 Kerobokan 216-17 Kota Ambon 425 Kuta 209 Labuanbajo 359 Seminyak 216-17 Senggigi 309-10 sport 741 Stone Chairs (Danau Toba) 509 Suharto 141, 607, 718-20 Sukadana 598-600 Sukamade 191 Sukarno 718-19 Sukawati 265 Sulamadaha 416 Sulawesi 46, 636-700, 638 accommodation 636 Central Sulawesi 669-82 food 636 highlights 638, 638 history 637, 650, 669, 682, 696 itineraries 31, 31 North Sulawesi 682-96 South Sulawesi 639-66 Southeast Sulawesi 696-700 travel seasons 636 travel to/from 637, 639 travel within 639 West Sulawesi 666-9 Sumatera Loom 555-6 Sumatra 46, 490-585, 492-3 accommodation 490 food 490 highlights 492-3, 492-3
I N D E X R- S
Rawa Biru 488 religion 202, 703, 708-9, 728-31 Buddhism 708-9, 731 Christianity 660, 709, 730 Hinduism 708-9, 731 Islam 709, 728-30 Rembitan 319 Rendang 271 Rende 398-9 Repi 364-5 reserves, see national parks & reserves responsible travel 332, 763-5 diving 763 hiking & trekking 763-4 volunteering 764-5 rhinoceroses 583 Riau 568-73 Rinca 353-4, 351 Ring of Fire 751 Riung 368-70 rock climbing Bukit Kandis 568 Goa Kacamata 568 Rote 391-4 Rua 404 Rum 418 Ruteng 363-4
8 10
I N D E X S -T
Sumatra continued history 491, 509 itineraries 29, 29 North Sumatra 494-514 South Sumatra 577-80 travel seasons 490 travel to/from 491 travel within 494 West Sumatra 536-65, 538 Sumatra Rhino Sanctuary 583 Sumba 394-406, 395 culture 394-6 history 394 internet resources 397 Sumbawa 342-50, 343 East Sumbawa 346-7 safety 342 travel within 342 West Sumbawa 342-5, 24 Sumbawa Besar 345 Sumbawa Besar region 346 Sumenep 168-9, 169 sunburn 788 Sungai Bungan 598 Sungai Kapuas 14, 591, 596-8, 14 Sungai Mahakam 591, 623-9 Sungai Penuh 561-2 Sungai Pinang 543 Sungai Rateboya 406 Sungai Sekonyer 600 Sungai Wain 619 Surabaya 158, 160-6, 162 accommodation 161, 163 drinking 164 entertainment 164 food 163-4 information 164 nightlife 164 sights 158, 160-1 travel to/from 164-5 travel within 166 surfing 24, 37-8, 24 Asu 518 Bali 214 Banyak Islands 533 Batu Karas 101 Bawa 518 Bono 515 books 519 Gili Trawangan 328
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
G-Land 193 Kuta (Lombok) 320 Mentawai Islands 546 Miller’s Point 406 Nusa Lembongan 242 Occy’s Left 404 Pangandaran 96-7 Pantai Keramas 267 Pantai Lakey 347-8 Pantai Sorake 519 Pulau Nias 518 Pulau Simeulue 530 Tanjung Setia 578 Telo Islands 515 T-Land 392 Ulu Watu 232 surfing lessons 96-7 Susupu 420 swimming 101, 178, 511, 559
T
Tabanan 298, 300 Taboso 420 Taibassi 669 Taka Bone Rate Islands 652 Takpala 380 Taliwang 343 Taman Nasional Gunung Halimun 83 Tambolaka 402 Tampaksiring 266 Tanah Rata 439 Tana Toraja 17, 654-61, 656-7, 17 accommodation 657-8 coffee 664 entrance fees 662 food 658 funeral ceremonies 661 guides 663 information 659 shopping 659 sights 654 travel to/from 659, 666 Tana Toraja region 661-6 Tanete 669 Tangkahan 504-5 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 695-6 Tangkuban Prahu 93 Tanjung An 322 Tanjung Api National Park 677 Tanjung Benoa 234 Tanjung Harapan 600 Tanjung Isuy 626
Tanjung Karang 675-6 Tanjung Lokan 598 Tanjung Pinang 572-3 Tanjung Puting National Park 12, 600-2, 12 Tanjung Selor 635 Taramanu 404 tarsiers 698 Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue 694 Taupe 669 Tawangmangu 143-4 tea 745 telephone services 20, 773 Telo Islands 515 Teluk Baguala 429 Teluk Dalam 518 Teluk Sawai 434 Teluk Triton 466 Temkessi 390-1 temples 25, see also puras Arjuna Complex 105 Borobudur Temple 107-8 Candi Astano 574 Candi Bima 105 Candi Brahma 131 Candi Cetho 142-3 Candi Dwarawati 105 Candi Gedong Dua 574 Candi Gedong Satu 574 Candi Gumpung 574 Candi Jago 177 Candi Kalasan 132 Candi Kedaton 574 Candi Kembar Batu 574 Candi Kidal 177 Candi Koto Mahligai 574 Candi Pawon 109 Candi Pembakaran 132 Candi Sajiwan 132 Candi Sambisari 132 Candi Sari 132 Candi Sewu 131 Candi Shiva Mahadeva 131 Candi Singosari 175-6 Candi Sukuh 142 Candi Sumberawan 176-7 Candi Tinggi 574 Candi Vishnu 131 Gedung Batu 145 Jin De Yuan 57 Kienteng Ban Hian Kong 685 Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese Temple 194 Kraton Ratu Boko 131-2 Mendut Temple & Monastery 109
Muara Jambi 574-5 Plaosan Kidul 131 Plaosan Lor 131 Plaosan Temples 131 Prambanan Temples 130-1 Pura Meru 305-6 Singosari temples 175-7 Soetji Nurani Temple 609 Sun Tien Kong Chinese Temple 439 Vihara Bodhisatva Karaniya Metta 590 Tenganan 275-6 Tenganan Dauh Tenkad 276 Tenggarong 624-5 Tentena 670-2 Tering 628 Tering Baru 628 Tering Lama 628 Tetebatu 318-19 Tetegewo 520 theatre 733 theft 773 Thousand Islands 73-4 Tiahahu 434 Tiga Islands 430 Tilanga 665 Timbararu 442 time 20, 773-4 Tinggi Hari 584 Tiong Ohang 628, 629 tipping 771 Tirta Empul 266 Tirta Gangga 278-80 Tjong A Fie Mansion 495 Tobelo 420-1 Togean Islands 17, 677-82, 678, 17 conservation 680 environmental issues 680 internet access 679 travel to/from 666, 678-9 travel within 679 toilets 774 Tokahale 404 Tolo Lela 367 tombs King Sidabutar 509 Makam Sultan Hasanuddin 641 Sultan Agung 127 Sunan Kudus 152 Tomohon 692-3 Tomohon region 693-4 Toraja (people) 660-1
811 typhoid 787
U
Ubud 15, 247-64, 248-9, 252-3, 2-3, 15 accommodation 255-9 activities 251, 254, 256 courses 254-5 drinking 261 entertainment 261-2 events 255 festivals 255 food 259-61 information 263 nightlife 261 shopping 262-3 sights 249-51 tours 255 travel to/from 263 travel within 264 Ubud region 264-6 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 255 Ujung Kulon National Park 77-9 Ullath 433 Ulu Watu 232-3, 230 Uma Pura 379 Ungasan 233
V
vacations 772 vaccinations 784-5 viewpoints Benteng de Kock 551 Gunung Sikunir 105 Pantai Karang Hawu 85 Spiderweb Rice Fields 363 Taman Panorama 551 Villa Isola 89 visas 20, 385, 470, 774-5 volcanic eruptions 704, 751-2 Gunung Api 441-2 Gunung Api Gamalama 417 Gunung Batur 284 Gunung Krakatau 78, 517, 585 Gunung Merapi 107, 127 volcanoes 17, 78, 751-2, 7, 17 Bukit Daun 568 Bukit Kaba 568 Gunung Api 441-2 Gunung Api Gamalama 417 Gunung Baru 315, 17
Gunung Batur 284 Gunung Colo 681 Gunung Dempo 584 Gunung Inerie 368 Gunung Kelud 180-1 Gunung Kerinci 564 Gunung Krakatau 77, 78, 585 Gunung Kulan 528 Gunung Kunyit 565 Gunung Lokon 693 Gunung Mahawu 693 Gunung Merapi 127-8, 528, 558 Gunung Papandayan 95 Gunung Sesean 663 Gunung Sibayak 505-6 Gunung Singgalang 558 Gunung Tambora 347 Iljen 188 Kawah Papandayan 96 Tangkuban Prahu 93 volunteering 764-5, 775
W
Waai 429 Wae Rebo 364 Waiara 377 Waigalli 404 Waikabubak 399-401, 400 Waimangura 404 Waingapu 397-8 Waingapu region 398 Wainyapu 406 Waiwarungu 404 Wakasihu 430 Walang 442 walking, see also hiking & trekking Gili Meno 335-6 Gili Trawangan 328 Kelimutu 373 Komodo 351-2 Manokwari 464-5 Rinca 353-4 Tana Toraja region 663 Ubud 255, 256 Wallace, Alfred Russel 637 Wallace Line 637 Wamena 478-81, 479 Wanci (Pulau Wangi Wangi) 699-700 Wangli 404 Wasur National Park 487-8 Watampone 652-3 water 769 waterfalls Air Terjun 246
Air Terjun Bantimurung 647 Air Terjun Gangga 313 Air Terjun Hengahenga 676 Air Terjun Oehala 387 Air Terjun Salopa 670 Air Terjun Sindang Gila 314 Air Terjun Singsing 293 Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso 506 Air Terjun Takapala 647 Air Terjun Telun Berasap 565 Air Terjun Tiga Tingkat 543 Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 314 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 313 Beringin Tiga 568 Curug Embun 568 Grojogan Sewu 143 Lemba Harau 558 Mambulilin Sarambu 669 Munduk Waterfall 288-9 Pancuran Rayo 565 water parks Atlantis Water Adventure 63 Waterbom Park 209 water sports Gili Air 338 Komodo 352 Watsin 449 Watu Karung 181-2 Waur 449 Wawo Muda 368 Way Kambas National Park 583-4 weather 20 weights 769 Wektu Telu 314 West Bali 298-301, 299 West Java 74-102, 76 West Kalimantan 590-600 West Lombok 306 West Papua 457-67 West Sulawesi 666-9 West Sumatra 536-65, 538 history 537 West Sumba 401-6 West Sumbawa 342-5, 24 West Timor 381-91, 382 history 382 traditional houses 388 Western Leihitu 430-1 white-water rafting Minahasa region 692 Ubud 251
I N D E X T-W
tourist information 774 tours 782-3 dolphin-watching 292, 352, 625, 627, 675, 695 jungle river journeys 586 whale sharks 182 Toya Bungkah 286-7 traditional religious beliefs marapu 396 sasi 448 Wektu Telu 314 traditional villages Bajawa 365, 367 Bali 279 Belaragi 367 Flores 355 Java 87 Luba 367 Maluka 449 Manggarai Country 363, 364 Rembitan 319 Rote 391 Sade 319 Sulawesi 663, 664, 669 Sumatra 519-21, 547, 559 Sumba 394, 396, 398 Takpala 380 Tolo Lela 367 West Timor 381, 387 train travel 783 TransJakarta 72 transport language 792-3 travel advice 773 travel permits 775 travel to/from Indonesia 776-8 travel within Indonesia 778-83 trekking, see hiking & trekking Triton Bay 466 Trowulan 166 tsunamis 517, 523 Tual 444-7, 445 tubing Bukit Lawang 502 Tangkahan 504 Tukangbesi Islands 699-700 Tulamben 282-3 Tulta 380 Tundrumbaho 520 turtle conservation Kuta 209 Pemuteran 295 Turtle Sanctuary 335
812
I N D E X W -Y
Widodo Joko (Jokowi) 702-3, 723-4 wildlife 25 Kalimantan 587 Papua 454 wildlife conservation 755, 764 wildlife reserves & parks Bali Bird Park 265 Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation 605 Elephant Safari Park 266 Orangutan Feeding Centre 501 Sadengan 192-3 Tasikoki Wildlife Rescue 694 wildlife-watching 41-2
Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Wodong 377 Women in Indonesia 731-2 women travellers 775 women’s health 788 Wonosobo 104 woodcarving 737-8 Wosilimo 483 Wula Podhu 399 WWII 422
Y
Yakiu 488 Yali Country 485 Yamtel 449 Yeh Pulu 265 yoga Canggu 226-7
Balian Beach 300 Gili Air 339 Gili Meno 337 Gili Trawangan 328 Kerobokan 217 Sanur 236 Ubud 251, 254 Yogyakarta 111-27, 114 accommodation 116-19 beaches 126 city centre 119 courses 113, 115 drinking 121 entertainment 121-3 events 116 festivals 116 food 119-21 history 111
information 124-5 internet resources 122 itineraries 112 nightlife 121 Prawirotaman area 11719, 120-1, 118 safety 124 shopping 123-4 sights 111-13 Sosrowijayan area 116-17, 120, 117 street food 120 tours 115-16 travel to/from 125 travel within 126-7
813
N OTE S
814
N OTE S
815
N OTE S
8 16
N OTE S
8 17
EMMA NEUVONEN
LONELY PLANET
IN TH E
WILD
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Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight
Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity
Sleeping Sleeping Camping
Eating Eating
Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe
Entertainment
Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information
Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall
Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village
Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/MRT/MTR station Monorail Parking Petrol station Skytrain/Subway station Taxi Train station/Railway Tram Underground station Other Transport
Entertainment
Shopping Shopping
Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall
Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef
Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground
Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book
Swamp/Mangrove
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Anna Kaminski Sumatra Anna has been tramping through jungles around the world for over a decade, passing through both Sumatra and wilder Kalimantan during the course of her travels. On this occasion, she was delighted to re-explore Sumatra, particularly its remoter islands and its southern half. This yielded some wonderful surprises: the Kerinci Valley and the Bengkulu region. Though based in Europe, Anna returns to Southeast Asia (and Indonesia) as often as possible, drawn by the fiery cuisine and the constant travel challenges. Hugh McNaughtan Maluku A former English lecturer, Hugh decided visa applications beat grant applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having also done a bit of restaurant reviewing in his hometown (Melbourne), he’s now eaten his way across Europe, Southeast Asia, the US and Sri Lanka (and can honestly say that nowhere is the fish as delicious as it is in Maluku). Never happier than when on the road with his two daughters (except perhaps on the cricket field), he’s given his youth to the life peripatetic. Adam Skolnick Java Adam has written about travel, culture, health, sports, human rights and the environment for Lonely Planet, The New York Times, Outside, Playboy, Men’s Health, Travel & Leisure, Salon.com, BBC.com and ESPN.com. He has authored or co-authored 25 Lonely Planet guidebooks, and is the author of One Breath: Freediving, Death, and the Quest To Shatter Human Limits, about the life and death of America’s greatest freediver. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com. Find him on Twitter and Instagram (@adamskolnick).
favourite island.
Iain Stewart Sulawesi Iain has visited Indonesia 10 times, and travelled from Pandang in West Sumatra to Kupang in Timor. He first went to Sulawesi back in 1994, when waiting for five days for a boat connection wasn’t unusual. Travel is now somewhat easier but the island remains as enchanting as ever. Iain has contributed to numerous Lonely Planet guidebooks, including four editions of Indonesia – Sulawesi is his Read more about Iain at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stewpot
Ryan Ver Berkmoes Nusa Tenggara, Plan, Understand, Survival Guide Ryan first visited Indonesia in 1993. On his visits since, he has criss-crossed the archipelago, trying to make a dent in those 17,000 islands. Recent thrills included the ancient villages of West Timor and finding his new favourite beach on Flores (it’s near Paga). Off-island, Ryan travels the world writing and calls New York City home. Read more at ryanverberkmoes.com and at @ryanvb.
Read more about Ryan at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ryanvb
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Loren Bell Kalimantan, Environment Loren fell in love with Kalimantan during his three years managing a remote rainforest research station, and has returned every year since. For this book, he stoically slept in hotels (on real beds!) and ate in actual restaurants before darting back to the jungle in search of more remote Dayak villages and the forest pondok where he feels most at ease. He also writes about Indonesia’s environment for Mongabay.com, and consults for NGOs working to protect Kalimantan’s forests. Stuart Butler Papua Stuart first hit the shores of Indonesia many years ago at the end of a long trans-Asia surf trip. Not surprisingly, it was the highlight of his trip. Today, Stuart lives with his wife and two young children, Jake and Grace, on the beautiful beaches of southwest France. His love of hiking and interest in tribal cultures meant that covering Papua was a dream project for him. His travels have taken him across Indonesia and beyond, from Himalayan mountain trails to the savannahs of East Africa. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at:
http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/stuartbutler
Trent Holden Bali Trent first visited Bali as a young Aussie backpacker in 1997. Two decades later, without hesitation he jumped at the opportunity to cover it for Lonely Planet. A regular visitor to Indonesia, Trent believes Bali has lost none of its charms; if anything, it gets better by the year. He also rates the food among the tastiest in the world, and thrives upon his eternal quest to find the best Balinese nasi campur. Trent has covered around 25 titles for Lonely Planet, researching and writing about destinations from Sumatra and Phuket to India’s Andaman Islands, Nepal and Uganda. Trent also wrote the Outdoor Adventures chapter for this title.
OVER MORE PAG E WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the 11th edition – July 2016 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum ISBN 978 1 74321 028 4 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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