7 92
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
A
Aas 276, 277 Abiyangge 482 accommodation 756-8, see also individual locations language 781-2 Aceh 517-32, 518 activities 26-39, see also individual activities Agats 483-4 Ahuwair 370 Aikima 480 Air Garam 480 Air Mata cemetery 171 air travel 768-9, 770-1 Al Quaran Tua 374 Alang 424 Alas Purwo National Park 192-4 alcohol 653, 748-9 Allodio 665 Alor Archipelago 371-4 Alor Besar 374 Alor Kecil 374 Amahai 427-8 Ambarawa 150-1 Ambisu 484 Ambunten 171 Amed 276-8 Amlapura 267, 274-5 Ampana 672 Anemangi 480 Anggaduber 470 Anggi Lakes 460 Angguruk 482 animals, see wildlife Apokayan 610 Apui 374 archaeological museums, see also museums & galleries archaeological museum (Banten) 73 Karmawibhangga archaeological museum 110
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Museum Semarajaya 265 Museum Siwalima 418 Museum Sumatera Selatan 572 architecture 728-30 area codes 764 arts & crafts 726-8, 730-5, see also dance Arts Festival (Yogyakarta) 118 Asilulu 424 Asmat people 483 Asmat region (Papua) 483-4 ASRI 617 Asta Tinggi Cemetery 170 Astana Giribangun 143 Ateng 374 ATMs 761 Atsy 484 authors 699 avian influenza 778 Awok 484
B
Ba’a 384-5 Bahasa Indonesia 781-8 Baing 393 Bajang Ratu 167 Bajau people 676 Bajawa 358-60 Bajra Sandhi Monument 237 Bakauheni 581 Balangan Beach 228 Balekambang 180 Bali 40, 197-297 accommodation 197 activities 28, 31, 33, 34, 35, 207 arts 202-3 beaches 27 climate 197 culture 8, 201-4 food 197, 746 highlights 198-9 history 200 internet resources 201 travel seasons 197 travel to/from 204-5 travel within 205-7 Bali Arts Festival 237, 239 Bali Barat National Park 296-7 Bali Bird Park 262 Bali bombings 699 Bali Botanical Gardens 283 Bali Safari & Marine Park 264 Bali Spirit Festival 253 Bali Treetop Adventure Park 283 Balian Beach 295 Baliem Valley 10, 472-82, 473, 10 festivals & events 481 hiking & trekking 12, 476-7 travel to/within 472
Balikpapan 588-93, 589 Balinese architecture 729-30 Balinese language 785 Balla Peu 665 balok 653 Baluran National Park 195-6 Banda Aceh 519-23, 520 Banda Islands 11, 429-38, 430, 11 Bandaneira 431-5, 432, 11 Bandarlampung 577-9, 578 Bandung 86-92, 88 Bandung Institute of Technology 87 Bandungan 151-2 Bangka Islands 685 Bangkalan 168 Bangkiang Sidem 253 Bangkiriang Nature Reserve 671 Bangli 265 Banjarmasin 627-30, 629 Banree 435 Banten 71-3 Banyak Islands 527-9 Banyuwangi 194-5 Baranusa 373 bargaining 761 Baron 130 Barong 203-4 Baruppu 660 basketwork 734 Batak Graves (Danau Toba) 506 Batak people 506, 507 bathrooms 764-5 batik 125, 126, 137, 138, 733-4 Batik Museum 151 courses 138 Solo 141 Batu 179-80 Batu Angus 410 Batu Batu 648 Batu Beribu 576 Batu Bolong Beach 225 Batu Daya 616 Batu Gajah 576 Batu Karas 100 Batu Koq 326-7 Batu Kotak 334 Batu Putih 374 Batubelig Beach 223 Batukandik 245 Batur 282 Batutulis 79 Batutumonga 659, 660 Bau Bau 693 Bawomataluo 517 Bayan 326 Bayuning 277
7 93 Bondomarotto 393 Bondowoso 188 Boni 386 books 699 Bali 204 Java 48 Papua 459 border crossings 769 Bori 660 Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation 625 Borobudur 14, 109-13 Borobudur Temple 14, 109-10, 14 Bosnik 470 Boti 381-2 Botohili 517 Boxing Day tsunami 488, 514, 519, 521 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 184-8 Buahan 282 Buddhism 725-6 budgeting 16-17 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 581-2 Bukit Lawang 495-9 Bukit Peninsula 12, 227-32, 12 Bukittingi 545-50, 546 bull racing 21, 169, 680 Bulungan 610 Bunaken Festival 684 Buntao 662 Buntu Balla 665 Buntu Pune 660-1 Bunutan 277 bus travel 772-3, 774 business hours 758
C
Calabai 342 Calingling 85 Camp Leakey 620 Candi Sukuh 9, 142-3, 9 Candidasa 272-4, 273 Candikuning 283-5 Candirejo 112 Canggu 225-7, 226 canoes 772 canyoning 352 car travel 773-4 Carita 73-4 caves bat caves (Bukit Lawang) 497 bat caves (Pulau Batu Daka) 674 Goa Gajah 260 Goa Jepang 469 Goa Putri 182 Gua Belang 559
Gua Gong 182 Gua Istana 193 Gua Jepang 547 Gua Jerang 95 Gua Kasah 559 Gua Kelelawar 559 Gua Kotilola 480 Gua Leang Leang 643-4 Gua Padepokan 193 Gua Semar 107 Gua Sunyaragi 103 Gua Tabuhan 182 Gua Tiangko 559 Gua Wikuda 480 Liang Bua 357-8 Loyang Koro 529 cell phones 17, 764 Cempaka Diamond Fields 631 cemeteries Air Mata cemetery 171 Asta Tinggi Cemetery 170 Batak Graves (Danau Toba) 506 Commonwealth War Cemetery 418 European Cemetery (Bengkulu) 560 Kambira Baby Graves 662 Troloyo cemetery 167 Cenderawasih Bay National Park 460 Central Java 104-44, 105 Central Kalimantan 619-27 Central Lombok 325-7 Central Mountains 279-86 Central Sulawesi 665-76 children, travel with 751, 758 child-sex tourism 766 Christianity 725 churches & cathedrals Bandaneira 432 Francis Xavier Cathedral 418 Gereja Blenduk 145 Gereja Sion 52 Gereja Tua Hila 425 Maranatha Cathedral 418 Sikka 369 Cianjur 85-6 Cibodas 83-4 cigarettes, kretek 153 Cimaja 82-3 Ciokoto 100 Cipanas 83, 94 Cirebon 101-4, 102 Ciwidey 92 climate 16, see also individual regions coffee 64, 748 luwak coffee 552 plantations 189 Commonwealth War Cemetery 418
INDE X B - C
beaches 19, 26-8, see also individual beaches East Bali 264 Lovina 288 Malang 180 Seminyak 218 South Bali 225 Yogyakarta 130 beadwork 734 becak 774 Bedulu 260 Bekol 195 Belakilu 393 Belaragi 359 Belimbing 552 Bena 360 Bengkulu 560-2 Benoa 232 Benoa Harbour 236-7 benteng, see forts Benteng (town) 647 Berastagi 500-4, 501 Berau 606-7, 607 Berewa Beach 225 Berlubai 576 Biao 435 bicycle travel, see cycling bidar race (Palembang) 572 Big Tree Farms 261 Bima 343-5 Bingin 228-9 bird flu 778 birds 739 birdwatching Manokwari region 459 Pulau Dua Bird Sanctuary 71 Raja Ampat Islands 454 Tapaktuan 526 Bitung 688 Black River 591 Blitar 180-1 Blongas 335 Blue Lagoon Beach 269 Bo’a 386 boat travel 769-70, 771-2 Sungai Kahayan 626 Sungai Mahakam 597-8, 599 Sungai Rungan 626 Tanjung Puting National Park 621 tours 775 Bobo 619 Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 678 Bogor 78-81, 78 Bohebekut 609 Bohesilian 609 Bombay 443 Bondokodi 399
7 94
INDE X C - E
consulates 759 courses batik 117, 138 cooking 117, 232, 552, 746 language 117, 760 crafts 730-5 credit cards 761 Cross-Borneo Trek 9, 587, 9 Crystal Bay Beach 246 culture 720-36 Asmat people 483 Bajau people 676 Bali 201-4 Batak people 506, 507 Dani people 479, 10 Flores 349 Gili Islands 319 Korowai people 484 Mentawaian people 542 Minangkabau people 535, 552 Ngada people 361 Orang Rimba people 570 Papua 448-50 Toraja people 654-5 Yali people 481-2 currency 16 customs regulations 758 cycling 28, 771 Danau Toba 506 Gili Air 314 Gili Trawangan 320-1 Tirta Gangga 275 Ubud 253
D
Danau Anak Laut 524 Danau Anegerak 480 Danau Bratan 283-6, 284 Danau Galela 416 Danau Gunung Tujuh 559 Danau Habbema 481 Danau Kerinci 559 Danau Laguna 411 Danau Lindu 668 Danau Linow 688 Danau Maninjau 553-6, 554 Danau Sentani 466, 466 Danau Singkarak 552 Danau Tambing 668-9 Danau Tempe 648 Danau Toba 504-10 Danau Toba Festival 507 Danau Tolire Besar 410
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Danau Tolire Kecil 410 dance 8, 76, 203, 726-7, 8 festivals 58 Ubud 258 dangers, see safety Dani (people) 479, 10 Daru 416 Daruba 416 Data Dawai 603 Debut 442 Demak 152 dengue fever 778 Denpasar 237-41, 238-9 Depan Kampung 437-8 Depare 466-7 departure tax 768, 771 Derawan Archipelago 607-10 Deri 660 Detusoko 367 diarrhoea 779 Dieng Plateau 107-9 Diponegoro War 709 disabilities, travellers with 765 diseases 778-9 diving 18, 28, 319, 779, 29, see also snorkelling Alor Archipelago 372 Banda Islands 429, 29 Banggai Islands 672 Bangka Islands 685 Benoa 232 Candidasa 272 Derawan archipelago 609 Gili Air 313-14 Gili Islands 317 Gili Meno 316 Gili Trawangan 319 Gorontalo 677 Karimunjawa Islands 156 Komodo 347, 349 Kota Ambon 424 Labuanbajo 349, 350-2 Lovina 288 Magic Mountain 398 Magnet 335 Nusa Lembongan 244 Nusa Penida 244 Padaido Islands 471 Padangbai 269 Pantai Bira 644-5 Permuteran 292 Pulau Babi 370 Pulau Biak 467 Pulau Bunaken 10, 684, 10 Pulau Lembeh 688-9 Pulau Menjangan 296 Pulau Pangabaton 370 Pulau Weh 523-4, 525
Raja Ampat Islands 452-4, 12 Sangir-Talaud Islands 690 Sanur 233 Senggigi 307 Sumba 398 Tanjung Karang 671 Togean Islands 673 Tulamben 276, 279 Waiara 370 Djarum Kretek Factory 153 Dokan 502 dokar 774 dolphins 288, 601, 690 Donggala 671 Double Six Beach 209 Dream Beach 242 Drini 130 drinking water 780 drinks 748-9, see also alcohol, coffee language 783-4 driving 773-4 drugs 762-3 Duda 267 Dumai 565 Dusun Senaru 326 Dutch influence 200-1 Dutch rule 460, 707-10
E
earthquakes 132, 514, 533, 541 East Bali 262-79, 263 East Java 158-96, 159 East Kalimantan 588-610 East Lombok 335-6 East Timor 376, 719 Echo Beach 227, 226 economy 700 Ekas 336 Elat 443 electricity 759 Elephant Safari Park 261-2 elephants 500, 579 Eluay, Theys 464 embassies 759 emergencies 17 language 784 endangered species 739 Ende 362-5, 364 environment 737-44 environmental issues 354, 740-4, 770 Bangka Islands 685 Gili Islands 323 Gunung Leuser National Park 532 Raja Ampat Islands 454 Togean Islands 675 Erau Festival 599 etiquette 698 mosques 593
7 95 European Cemetery (Bengkulu) 560 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 17
F
Galela 416 Gallubakul 396 galleries, see also museums & galleries Adi’s Gallery 247 Agung Rai Museum of Art 247 Balai Seni Rupa 51 Museum Lambung Mangkurat 631 Museum Le Mayeur 233 Museum Puri Lukisan 246 Museum Rudana 247 Neka Art Museum 247 Neka Gallery 247 Pasifika Museum 231 Rio Helmi Gallery 247 Semarang Gallery 145 Galungan 20 Galungan-Kuningan 202 gamelan 204, 700, 727 Gamtala 413 Gapang 524-5 garuda 711 Garut 94 gay travellers 759-60 Gayo highlands 529-30 Gede Pangrango National Park 84-5 Gedeh tea plantation 85 Gedong Kirtya Library 288 geography 737 Gerebeg 118 Gerupak 334 Gianyar 264-5 giardiasis 779 Gili Air 312-15, 313 Gili Asahan 305 Gili Gede 305 Gili Islands 6, 311-25, 311 diving 317 responsible travel 319 safety 311-12 travel to/within 312 Gilimanuk 296 Gili Meno 315-18 Gili Tepekong 272 Gili Trawangan 318-25, 320, 7 accommodation 321-3 activities 319-21 drinking 324-5 entertainment 324-5 food 323-4 shopping 325 golf 568 Gomo 516 Gondang 326 Gong Factory 79-80 Gorontalo 677-9, 677
Grave and Memorial of Theys Eluay 464 Gunongan 519-21 Gunung Agung 267-8, 3 Gunung Api 13, 435 Gunung Api Gamalama 410 Gunung Arjuna 178 Gunung Batukau 286 Gunung Batur 280-2, 281 Gunung Bromo 127, 184-7 Gunung Halimun National Park 82 Gunung Ili Mandiri 370 Gunung Inerie 360 Gunung Kawi 261 Gunung Kelatakan 297 Gunung Kelud 181-2 Gunung Kemiri 531-2 Gunung Kerinci 558-9 Gunung Krakatau 13, 74-5, 581 Gunung Lawu 142-4 Gunung Leuser 532 Gunung Leuser National Park 11, 530-2, 11 Gunung Mahawu 687-8 Gunung Mambulilin 664 Gunung Merapi 129-31, 524, 552-3 Gunung Penanggungan 179 Gunung Rinjani 13, 327-9, 330-1, 328, 13 Gunung Rore Kitimbu 669 Gunung Semeru 187-8 Gunung Seraya 276 Gunung Sibayak 501-2 Gunung Sikunir 107-8 Gunung Simpali 532 Gunung Sinabung 502 Gunung Singgalang 553 Gunung Singki 660 Gunung Sitoli 514 Gunung Tambora 342 Gunung Welirang 178 Gurah 531-2 Gurah Recreation Forest 531
H
Habbema 481 Harau Valley 15, 553, 15 Haria 426 Hatta’s House 431 health 776-80 heat exhaustion 779 heatstroke 779-80 hepatitis A 778 hepatitis B 778 herbal medicines 148 hiking & trekking 18, 34-8, 32 Bali Barat National Park 297 Baliem Valley 12, 476-7, 10 Baluran National Park 195
INDE X E- H
ferry travel 769-70, 772 festivals & events 20-1, see also individual locations Festival Danau Napabale 692 Festival Danau Poso 666 Festival Danau Sentani 464 Festival Kraton 693 Festival of Borobudur 111 Festival of Sumenep 170 Festival Teluk Kendari 691 Indonesian Dance Festival 58 food 749-50 filariasis 778 fishing 690 Flores 348-71, 350 culture 349 travel to/from 352 travel within 349-50 food 14, 745-8, 749-54, 14, see also individual locations cooking courses 117, 232, 552, 746 festivals 749-50 fruit 750 language 751-4, 782-4 Maluku 419 Padang cuisine 538, 549 prices 760 street food 124, 750 vegetarian 751 forts Benteng Amsterdam 424-5 Benteng Belgica 431 Benteng Bontobangun 647 Benteng de Kock 547 Benteng Duurstede 426 Benteng Hollandia 435 Benteng Kalamata 405 Benteng Marlborough 560 Benteng Nassau 431 Benteng Oranye 405 Benteng Otanaha 678 Benteng Revenge 436 Benteng Santo Pedro i Paulo 411 Benteng Sungguminasa 637 Benteng Tohula 412 Benteng Tolukko 405 Benteng Victoria 418 Benteng VOC 154 Fort Rotterdam 637 Fort Speelwijk 73 Fos 484 free diving 319 fruit 750 funeral festivals 21, 655
G
7 96
INDE X H -J
hiking & trekking continued Bukit Lawang 497-8 Cross-Borneo Trek 9, 587, 9 Danau Bratan 285 Danau Gunung Tujuh 559 Danau Toba 506-7 Gede Pangrango National Park 84-5 Gunung Agung 267-8 Gunung Batur 280-2 Gunung Bromo 185 Gunung Inerie 360 Gunung Kerinci 558-9 Gunung Lawu 144 Gunung Leuser National Park 11, 531-2, 11 Gunung Mbeliling 352 Gunung Merapi 130-1, 552-3 Gunung Rinjani 328-9, 330-1, 328 Gunung Semeru 187-8 Gunung Seraya 276 Gunung Sibayak 501-2 Gunung Sinabung 502 Ijen Plateau 189 Kelimutu 366 Kerinci Seblat National Park 558 Kerinci Valley 557 Komodo 346-7 Labuanbajo 352 Ladeh Panjang 559 Loksado 631-2 Lore Lindu National Park 669 Lovina 289 Mamasa 664 Manokwari region 459 Mentawai Islands 541-2 Moni 366 Mulller Mountains 603-4 Munduk 285 Sembalun Valley 327 Senggigi 307 Tana Toraja 658, 659-60, 662, 664 Tirta Gangga 275 Ujung Kulon National Park 76 Hilimaeta 517 Hilinawalo Mazingo 516-17 Hilisimaetano 517 Hinduism 200, 201-2, 725-6 history 701-19 Aceh 517-19, 716 Bali 200 Bengkulu (province) 560 Borobudur 109 Chinese settlers 704
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
coup 715 democracy 718-19 Diponegoro War 709 Dutch rule 49 East Timor 719 Guided Democracy 713 Gunung Bromo 185 Jakarta 49 Jambi (province) 569 Lampung 575-6 Manado 679 nationalism 710 New Order 716-18 Palembang 572 Papua 445, 448, 449, 716 Pulau Ai 436 Pulau Nias 512-13 Pulau Saparua 427 religion 704-6 Riau 562 rulers 706-7 South Sulawesi 636-7 Southeast Sulawesi 690-1 spice trade 703-4, 707-8 Suharto 714-18 Sukarno, Megawati 718-19 Sulawesi 635, 646, 665, 677, 690-1 Sumatra 488 trading route 701-4 United East India Company 707-10 Wahid, Abdurrahman 718 West Sumatra 533 World War II 710-12 Yogyakarta 113 Yudhoyono, Susilo Bambang 718-19 hitching 774 Hitugi 480 HIV 778 Hoku Hoku 413 holidays 762 homosexuality 722 horse racing 343 Bukittingi 548 Manado 680 Takengon 529 horse riding 223 hot springs Air Panas Cangar 179 Air Panas Soa 361 Cipanas 83 Dusan Buru Air Panas 559 Gracia Spa 92 Kalianda 581 Lombongo 678 Moni 366 Muara Tanuhi Hot Springs 632 Sari Ater Hot Spring Resort 92 Semangat Gunung 502-3
Songgoriti 179 Sungai Medang Air Panas 559 Tangkahan 500 Toya Bungkah 283 Wih Pesame 529 House of Rafflesia Luwak Coffee 552 Hutan Wisata Carita 73 Hu’u 342-3
I
Iboih 525 Idrus Tintin building 563 Idul Adha 749 Idul Fitri 21 Ijen Plateau 188-90 ikat 387, 731-3 Ikipalekma 481 immigration 765-6, 768 Imogiri 129 independence 201 Independence Day 58 Indonesian Dance Festival 58 Indrayanti Beach 130 infectious diseases 778-9 insurance 760 internet access 760 internet resources 17, 34, 775 air tickets 770 Islam 723-6 Istana Bogor 79 Istana Mini 431 itineraries 22-5
J
Jailolo 413 Jakarta 48-70, 50, 53, 54, 56, 60 accommodation 58-61 activities 57 Central Jakarta 52-3, 55, 54 children, travel with 59 Cikini 60-1, 62 drinking 15, 63-5, 15 emergency services 67 entertainment 65-6 festivals & events 58 food 61-3 Glodok 52, 62 history 49 immigration 67 internet access 67 internet resources 67, 68 Jalan Jaksa area 58-60, 61-2, 60 Kemeng area 62-3 Kota 49-52, 62, 53 Lapangan Banteng 53, 55 medical services 67 Menteng 60-1, 62
7 97 Jow 484 Juanta Island 616 Jungutbatu 241
K
Kabonduk 396 Kahale 398 Kaibon palace 73 Kakamauta 373 Kalabahi 371-4 Kalianda 580-1 Kalianget 171 Kalibaru 191 Kalimantan 41, 583-632, 584-5 accommodation 583 activities 28, 31, 34, 36, 38 climate 583 culture 586 food 747 highlights 584-5 history 586 safety 588 travel seasons 583 travel to/within 586, 588 wildlife 39, 586 Kali Yetni 478 Kaliurang 131-2 Kallala 393 Kamal 168 Kambira Baby Graves 662 Kampung Komodo 346 Kampung Lama 435-6 Kampung Naga 95 Kampung Paranobaroro 399 Kampung Pasunga 396 Kampung Prairami 393 Kampung Primkateti 393 Kampung Tambelar 393 Kandang Badak 84 Kandangan 630-1 Karang 112 Karang Nini 101 Karang Tirta 100 Karasik 660 Karduluk 169 Karimunjawa Islands 156-8 Kasada festival 185 Kasongan 129 Katupat 675-6 Kawah Candradimuka 108 Kawah Putih 92 Kawah Rengganis 92-3 Kawah Sikidang 108 Kawah Sileri 108 Kawangu 392 kayaking Banyak Islands 527 Raja Ampat Islands 454 Sanur 233
Kayan Mentarang 610 Kebun Balawan 189 Kebun Kandeng Lembu 191 Kebun Raya 78-9, 78 Kebun Raya Cibodas 84 Kecak 203 Kedah 531 Kedisan 282 Kefamenanu 382-3 Kei Islands 438-43, 440-1 Kelaisi 374 Kelimutu 365-6 Kelimutu National Park 365 Kelly Plantation 435 Kemala Beach 588 Kendari 691-2, 692 Kerinci Seblat National Park 557-9 Kerinci Valley 556-7 Kerobokan 223-5 Kersik Tua 557 Keruak 336 Ketambe 531-2 Ke’te Kesu 661 Kherkhof 521 Kienteng Ban Hian Kong 679 Kilise 479 Kimbim 481 King Sidabutar Grave 505 Kintamani 282 Kiroma 482 Klasuat 451 Klungkung 265-6 Kolaka 691 Kole 664 Kolorongo 366 Komodo 346-8, 346 Komodo dragons 347, 738, 6 Komodo National Park 6, 348 Kopidil 374 Korowai people 484 Korowai region (Papua) 484 Kosarek 482 Kota Ambon 418-22, 420 Kota Biak 467-9, 468 Kota Saparua 426 Kota Ternate 404-10, 406, 408 Koto Gadang 550-1 Krakal 130 Krakatau Monument 577 Kraton Kanoman 103 Kraton Kecirebonan 103 Kraton Kesepuhan 101-3 kratons, see palaces Krayan 610 kretek cigarettes 153 kris 734-5 Krui 574-5 Kudus 152-4
INDE X J - K
money 67 post 67 safety 67 shopping 66-7 sights 49-56 Southern Jakarta 55-6, 56 Sunda Kelapa 52, 62, 53 tourist offices 67-8 tours 57-8 travel agencies 68 travel to/from 68-9 travel within 69-70 Jakarta Anniversary 58 Jaladara Steam Train 138 Jalan Jaksa Street Fair 58 Jam Gadang (Bukittingi) 547 Jambi (city) 569-71 Jambi (province) 568-72 jamu 148 Jantur 601 Japanese B encephalitis 778 Jarajara 416 Jatiluwih Rice Fields 286 Java 40, 44-196, 45 accommodation 44 activities 31, 33, 34-5 beaches 27 books 48 climate 44 culture 47 cycling 28 festivals & events 58 food 44, 745-6 highlights 45 history 46-7 travel seasons 44 travel to/within 48 wildlife 38 Java Jazz Festival 58 Java Man 46 Javanese 785 Jawa Tengah 104-44, 105 Jayapura 460-4, 462 Jelenga 337-8 Jembatan Akar 540 Jembatan Merah 162 Jember 190 Jembrana 295-6 Jemeluk 277 Jepara 154-5 Jereweh 337 jet skiing 232 jewellery 735 JiFFest 58 Jimbaran 227-8 Jimbaran Beach 227 Jiwika 480 Jouburiki 411
7 98
INDE X K- M
Kukup 130 Kumai 622-3 Kuningan 20 Kupa Kupa 415-16 Kupang 375-80, 377 Kurima 478 Kusamba 263, 268 Kuta (Bali) 207, 209-18, 210, 212-13, 709 accommodation 210-11 activities 209 children, travel with 209 drinking 215-16 emergency services 217 entertainment 215-16 food 214-15 internet access 217 medical services 217 money 217 post 217 safety 216-17 shopping 216 sights 209 travel to/within 217-18 Kuta (Lombok) 331-4 Kutai National Park 604-5 KWPLH Sun Bear Sanctuary 591
L
Labuan 74 Labuanbajo 350-7, 353 accommodation 352-5 activities 350-2 drinking 355-6 food 355-6 information 356 tours 352 travel to/within 356-7 Labuhan Lombok 335-6 Ladeh Panjang 559 Lagoi 568 Laha 425 Lahusa Idanotae 516 Laingjawa 362 Lakwati 374 Lalang-Linggah 295 Lampung 575-82 Lampu’uk 526 Langda 660 Langgur 438-9, 442 language 16, 721, 781-8 courses 117, 760 Lanjak 618
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Larantuka 370-1 Larike 424 Latuhalat 422-3 Lawang Sewu 145-6 Lease Islands 425-7, 426 Lebih 264 Ledo 662 legal matters 699-700, 760, 762-3 antipornography law 699-700, 728 Legian 207, 209-18, 210, 212-13, 29 accommodation 211 activities 209 emergency services 217 food 215 internet access 217 medical services 217 money 217 post 217 safety 216-17 shopping 216 sights 209 travel to/from 217 Legong 204 Legu Gam 405 Lehan 277 Leihitu 423-5 Lela 369-70 Lembar 304-5 Lembeh Strait 688-9 Lembomawo 668 Lemboya 397 Lemo 661 Lerohoilim 443 lesbian travellers 759-60 Lhok Nga 526 Liang Bua 357-8 lifestyle 721-2 Lingga 502 Lipah 277 literature 699, see also books Litikaha 398 liveaboards Banda Islands 429 Bangka Islands 685 Cenderawasih Bay National Park 460 Gili Islands 319 Komodo 349 Labuanbajo 349, 350-2 Pulau Moyo 341 Raja Ampat Islands 453, 456 Togean Islands 672 Loh Buaya 348 Loh Liang 346 Loko 664 Lokomata 660 Loksado 631-2 Lolori 413
Lombok 300-36, 301 travel to/from 300, 352 travel within 300-2 Londa 661 Londolima 392-3 Long Angen 525 Long Bagun 603 longboats 772 lontar palm 385 Lonthoir 435 Lore Lindu National Park 668-9 Lovina 288-91 Luari 416 Luba 360-1 Luwuk 671-2
M
Mabul 484 Madandan 660 Madura bull races 21 Madwaer 442 magazines 756 Mahakam River 596-603 Mahu 426-7 Mainang 374 Majingklak 101 Makale 657 Makam Bung Karno 180 Makam Sultan Hasanuddin 637 Makassar 637-43, 638 accommodation 639-40 drinking 641 entertainment 641 food 640-1 history 637 information 641-2 shopping 641 sights 637, 639 travel to/from 642-3 Makatita Hall 431 Makbon 451 Malabar Tea Estate 93 Malabo 665 Malang 172-6, 173 malaria 778 Malifut 416 Malino 644 Malisu 398 Maluk 338-9 Maluku 41, 401-43, 402 accommodation 401 activities 28, 31, 35 beaches 27 climate 401 food 401, 747 highlights 402 travel seasons 401 travel to/within 403 wildlife 38
7 99 masks 736, 8 Masohi 427-8 massage Badung 87 Jakarta 57 Labuanbajo 352 Mataram 302-4, 303 Maubesi 383-4 Maumere 367-9, 368 Mawan 335 Mawi 335 measures 756 Medan 490-5, 490 accommodation 492-3 drinking 493-4 food 493 information 494 sights 490-2 tours 492 travel to/from 494-5 travel within 495 Medewi 296 medical services 777-8 Melak 602-3 Melaka (Malaysia) 565 Melang 374 Meliau 618 Memboro 397 Mendira 271-2 Mendoe 660 Mendut Temple & Monastery 111 Mentawai Islands 540-5, 541 accommodation 543-6 activities 541-3 information 544-5 tours 543 travel to/within 545 Mentawaians 542 Merak 73 Merauke 482-3 Meru Betiri National Park 192 Mesa Kada 665 Miller’s Point 399 Minangkabau people 535, 552 mobile phones 17, 764 Mokwam 459-60 Mombang 374 Monas 55 money 16, 17, 761-2 discount cards 758 moneychangers 761-2 Moni 366-7 Monumen Inggris 560 Monumen Kapal Selam 162 mosques 593, 730 Benoa 232 Majolica Ulama Indonesia 405 Mantingen 155-6
Masjid Agung At-Taqwa 588 Masjid al Akbar 162 Masjid Al Taqwa 435 Masjid Jami 418 Masjid Jami Babussholah 374 Masjid Kuno 331 Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq 326 Masjid Raya al-Fatah 418 Mesjid Abdurrahman 610 Mesjid Agung (Palembang) 572 Mesjid Agung (Banten) 73 Mesjid Agung (Demak) 152 Mesjid Agung (Solo) 137 Mesjid Agung Pondok Tinggi 556 Mesjid Al-Manar 152 Mesjid Ampel 161 Mesjid Besar (Semarang) 145 Mesjid Hatta-Syahrir 432 Mesjid Jamik 560 Mesjid Raya (Medan) 491 Mesjid Raya (Pekanbaru) 563 Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman 519 Mesjid Raya Darussalam 593 Mesjid Raya Sabilal Muhtadin 627 Mesjid Siratal Mustaqim 593 Mesjid Wapaue 425 Padangbai 269 Royal Mosque (Kota Ternate) 405 Samarinda Islamic Centre 593 motorcycle travel 506, 773-4 mountain climbing 38, see also hiking & trekking Muara Jambi 571-2 Muara Muntai 600-1 Muara Pahu 602 Mugi Valley 479 Muller Mountains 603-4 multiculturalism 722-3 Muncan 267 Munduk 285-6 museums & galleries, see also archaeological museums, galleries, maritime museums, puppet museums, volcano museums Adityawarman Museum 534 Affandi Museum 117 Ambarawa Train Station Museum 150 Balai Adat Daerah Riau 563 Batik Museum 151 Blambangan Museum 194 Blanco Renaissance Museum 247 Bukit Barisan Military Museum 491-2 Bukittinggi Museum 547 Danar Hadi 137 Dieng Plateau museums 107 Hotel Tugu Malang 172 House of Sampoerna 161-2
INDE X M
Mamasa 662-4, 663 Mamasa Valley 662-5 Manado 679-83, 680 Manado Beach Festival 680 Mancong 601 Mangarai Country 357-8 Mangun Dhama Arts Centre 176 Manokwari 457-9, 457 Manta 665 Manuakalada 397 maps 760-1 Marante 661 Marimbati 413 marine life 739 maritime museums Museum Bahari 52 Samudraraksa Museum 111 markets 651-9 Batik Centre (Jambi) 569 Bosnik 470 central market (Padangbai) 269 craft market (Sukawati) 262 fish market (Jimbaran) 227 fish market (Makassar) 639 fruit & produce markets (Berastagi) 503 ikat market (Ende) 363 Kintamani 282 Kota Saparua 426 morning market (Jimbaran) 227 morning market (Tulamben) 279 Pasar 16 Ilir 573 Pasar Aceh Central 521 Pasar Atas 547 Pasar Badung 240 Pasar Beringharjo 116 Pasar Bira 644 Pasar Bolu 651 Pasar Bunga 172 Pasar Gede 141 Pasar Ikan (Banda Aceh) 521 Pasar Ikan (Jakarta) 52 Pasar Kanoman 103 Pasar Klewer 141 Pasar Legi 180 Pasar Malam 624 Pasar Ngasem 117 Pasar Pabean 162 Pasar Senggol (Malang) 172 Pasar Seni (Ubud) 252 Pasar Syketeng 340 Pasar Triwindu 141 Pesar Kebun Sayur 591 Petak Sembilan Street Market 52 Semarapura 265 Tomohon 687 Waterfront Market (Ende) 363 Mas 262
800
INDE X M - O
museums & galleries continued Istana Kadriyah 610 Istana Mankunegaran 137 Keraton 405 Keraton/Mulawarman Museum 599 Kretek Museum 153 Lampung Provincial Museum 577 Lembaga Studi & Pelestarian Budaya Sumba 400 Mandala Mathika Subak 295 Mesjid Agung museum 152 Museum Asi Mbojo 343 Museum Balla Lompoa 637 Museum Bank Indonesia 51 Museum Bank Mandiri 51 Museum Batiwakkal 606 Museum Buleleng 288 Museum Cakraningrat 168-9 Museum Huta Bolon Simanindo 505-6 Museum Kareta Kraton 116 Museum Kebudayaan dan Kemajuan Asmat 484 Museum Konperensi 87 Museum Lapawawoi 648 Museum Loka Budaya 460 Museum Nasional 52-3 Museum Negeri Banda Aceh 521 Museum Negeri La Galigo 637 Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali 237 Museum Negeri Propinsi Jambi 569 Museum Negeri Riau 563 Museum of North Sumatra 491 Museum Pancasila Sakti 56 Museum Prangko 87 Museum Provinsi Kalimantan Barat 610-11 Museum Pusaka Nias 514 Museum RA Kartini 154 Museum Sasana Wiratama 117 Museum Sejarah Jakarta 51 Museum Seribu Moko 372 Museum Sukarno 180 Musium Bung Karno 363 Pakualaman Kraton 116 Public Museum of North Sulawesi 679 Pusat Kebudayaan Wolio 693 Radya Pustaka Museum 137 Ronggowarsito Museum 147 Royal Carriage-House Museum 169 Rumah Budaya 431 Rumah Bung Karno 560 Sasono Sewoko museum 136 Sono-Budoyo Museum 116
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Sonyine Malige Sultan’s Memorial Museum 412 Tembi 117 Textile Museum (Jakarta) 55 Trowulan Museum 167 Tsunami Museum 519 Ullen Sentalu 131 Zoological Museum (Bogor) 79 Mushroom Bay Beach 241 music 76, 700, 727-8 gamelan 204, 700, 727 Mussa 665
N
Nabire 471-2 Nabucco 609-10 Nagoya 565-6 Namalatu 423 Namano 427-8 Nangalla 661-2 national parks & reserves 740, 741 Aketajawe and Lolobata National Parks 414 Alas Purwo National Park 192-4 Bali Barat National Park 296-7 Baluran National Park 195-6 Bangkiriang Nature Reserve 671 Batang Palupuh Nature Reserve 552 Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park 678 Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park 184-8 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 581-2 Bunaken Manado Tua Marine National Park 683 Cenderawasih Bay National Park 460 Danau Sentarum National Park 618 Gede Pangrango National Park 84-5 Gunung Halimun National Park 82 Gunung Leuser National Park 11, 530-2, 11 Gunung Paling National Park 616 Iboih Forest nature reserve 525 Kelimutu National Park 365 Komodo National Park 6, 348 Kutai National Park 604-5 Lembah Anai Nature Reserve 552 Lore Lindu National Park 668-9 Meru Betiri National Park 192 Pangandaran National Park 95 Seventeen Islands Marine Park 361-2 Taka Bone Rate Marine National Park 647 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 689-90
Tanjung Api National Park 672 Tanjung Puting National Park 9, 619-22, 9 Ujung Kulon National Park 75-8 Wakatobi Marine National Park 694-5 Wasur National Park 483 Way Kambas National Park 579-80 Natuna Archipelago 611 Negara 631 Nelayan Beach 225 Nemberala 385-6 newspapers 756 Ngada people 361 Ngagelan 193 Ngarai Sianok 547 Nglipoh 112 Ngur Bloat 441 Ngurdu 443 Nolloth 427 None 382 North Bali 286-93, 287 North Kalimantan 610 North Lombok 325-7 North Maluku 403-16 North Papua 460-72 North Sulawesi 676-90 history 677 North Sumatra 489-511 Northeastern Baliem Valley 480-1 Nunukan 609-10 Nusa Ceningan 245 Nusa Dua 231-2 Nusa Kambangan 101 Nusa Lembongan 241-5, 242 Nusa Penida 245-6 Nusa Tenggara 40, 298-400, 299 accommodation 298 activities 28, 31, 33, 35 beaches 27 climate 298 food 298, 746-7 highlights 299 travel seasons 298 travel to/within 300 wildlife 38 Nyale Fishing Festival 332
O
Obama, Barack 58 Obia 480 Ocenep 484 Oebelo 380 Oelolok 383 Oenesu 380 Oesao 380 Oeseli 386 Ohoider Atas 439
801
P
Pacitan 182 Padaido Islands 471 Padang 533-9, 536 accommodation 535, 537 drinking 537-8 festivals & events 535 food 537-8 shopping 538 sights 534 tours 534-5 travel to/within 539 Padang cuisine 538, 549 Padang Padang 229 Padang Padang Beach 229, 12 Padangbai 269-71, 270 Padangpanjang 552 Paga 367 painting 203, 728 Pakubuwono XII 138 palaces Dalam Loka 339 Istana Maimoon 491 Istana Mangkunegaran 136-7 Istano Silinduang Bulan 551 Kraton Kanoman 103 Kraton Kesepuhan 101-3 Kraton Ratu Boko 133-4 Kraton (Sumenep) 169 Kraton Surakarta 135-6 Kraton (Yogyakarta) 113, 115 Masjid Bima 343 Mayura Water Palace 302 Puri Agung Karangasem 275 Puri Gede 275 Rumah Bolon 502 Rumah Gadang Pagaruyung 551 Semara Pura Complex 265 Taman Sari 115-16 Ubud Palace 246
Palangka Raya 624-7, 625 Palatokke 661 Palawa 660 Palembang 572-4 Palu 669-71, 670 Pamekasan 169 Pampang 595 Pana 660 Panataran 181 Pancasila (five principles) 711 Pancasila (village) 342 Pancor 336 Pandai Sikat 551 Pangala 660 Pangandaran 95-9, 96 Pangkalan Bun 623-4, 623 Pangli 660 Paniki 662 pantai, see beaches, individual beaches Pantai Air Dingin 526 Pantai Akasahu 412 Pantai Bama 195 Pantai Bandengan 156 Pantai Bara 644 Pantai Barat 644 Pantai Base G 461 Pantai Batuaga 693 Pantai Bira 644-7, 645 Pantai Bungus 540 Pantai Daftel 443 Pantai Etreat 397 Pantai Goa 341 Pantai Harlen 466 Pantai Kajoli 412 Pantai Kalangan 511 Pantai Karang Hawu 83 Pantai Karlen 415 Pantai Kartini 154 Pantai Kasih 524 Pantai Lahilote 678 Pantai Lakeba 693 Pantai Lakey 342-3 Pantai Lawar 338 Pantai Lombang 171 Pantai Madale 668 Pantai Malole 432 Pantai Marau 470 Pantai Marosi 397 Pantai Matako 668 Pantai Nihiwatu 398 Pantai Nirwana 693 Pantai Ohoidertutu 442 Pantai Pandan 510-11 Pantai Panjang 560 Pantai Paradiso 524 Pantai Pasir Putih 457 Pantai Radukapal 399
Pantai Rantung 338 Pantai Ria Teleng 182 Pantai Sebila 436 Pantai Segar 334 Pantai Segara Indah 470 Pantai Selegimpak 241 Pantai Sorake 515-16 Pantai Suluban 229 Pantai Sumur Tiga 524 Pantai Tanjung Gelam 156 Pantai Tarikaha 397-8 Pantai Timur 644 Pantai Toini 668 Pantai Trikora 568 Pantai Tu’i Lhok 526 Pantai Wanakoka 397 Pantar 373 Papua 41, 444-84, 446-7 accommodation 444 activities 28, 31, 35, 38 beaches 28 books 459 climate 444 culture 448-50 food 444, 747 highlights 446-7 history 445, 448, 449 information 449 safety 450 tours 449 travel to/within 449-50 wildlife 38, 470 Papua Human Rights Abuses Memorial Park 464 Papua New Guinea 461 Papuma 191 Parangritis 130 Parapat 504 parasailing 232, 233 Pare Pare 649 Parinding 660 parks & gardens, see also national parks & reserves Bali Botanical Gardens 283 Forest Park (Kaliurang) 131 Kebun Raya Purwodadi 178 Pangkalan Bun Park 623 Riau Cultural Park 563 Taman Alun Kapuas 610 Taman Burung & Taman Anggrek 469 Taman Gunung Meja 457-8 Taman Panorama 547 Taman Sari (Sumenep) 169 Pasalat 620 Pasemah Highlands 576 Pasir Panjang 441 Pasir Putih 95, 274 Pasola 20, 399
INDE X O - P
Ohoidertawun 439-41 Ohoililir 441 Oinlasi 381 ojek 774 Old Gowa 637, 639 opening hours 758 orang pendek 558 Orang Rimba 570 Orangutan Feeding Centre (Bukit Lawang) 496-7 orangutans 496-7, 591, 619, 620, 625, 738, 9 Orihili 517 Orobua 665 Osango 665 outrigger canoes 772 Ouw 427
802
INDE X P
Pasola festival 387 Pasongsongan 171 Pass Valley 480-1 passports 765-6, 768 Patung Khatulistiwa 611 Pauleni Village 359 Payakumbuh 553 Payogan 253 Ped 245 Pegunungan Arfak 459-60 Pekalongan 145 Pekanbaru 562-4 Pelabuhan Paotere 639 Pelantikan Stone 637 Pemandian Selekta 179 Pemuteran 292-3 Penangkaran Buaya Crocodile Farm 591 Pendolo 666 Penelokan 282 Pengantap 335 Penggosokkan Intan 631 Pengucapan Syukur 679 penis gourds 734 Penulisan 282 peoples Asmat 483 Bajau 676 Batak 506, 507 Dani 479, 10 Korowai 484 Mentawaians 542 Minangkabau 535, 552 Ngada 361 Orang Rimba 570 Toraja 654-5 Yali 481-2 Pero 398-9 Pesta Budaya Tabuik 535 photography 762 Piladang 553 Piliam 482 planning 700, see also individual regions activities 26-39 budgeting 16-17 calendar of events 20-1 Indonesia basics 16-17 Indonesia’s regions 40-1 internet resources 17 itineraries 22-5 travel seasons 16 plants 739-40 Plengkung 193
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
politics 698 Pondok Tanggui 620 Pontianak 610-16, 612 entertainment 613-14 food 613 shopping 614 sights 610-11 sleeping 611-12 tours 611 travel to/from 614-15 travel within 615-16 population 698 pornography 699-700, 728 Poso 667-8 postal services 762 Poto 341 Poto Tano 337 Potu 366 PPLH Environmental Education Centre 179 Prai Klembung 393 Prai Liang 392 Prai Natang 392 Praigoli 397 Praiijing 393 Prailiu 392 Praiyawang 392 Prambanan 132-5, 703 Prancak Beach 225 Praya 330-1 Prem 483 prickly heat 780 Probolinggo 183-4 Pronggoli 482 prostitution 596 Pua Janggo 644 Puaya 262 public holidays 762 Pugima 478 Pujung 262 Pulau Ai 436-7 Pulau Ambon 416-25, 417 history 417-18 travel to/from 418 Pulau Asei 466 Pulau Banda Besar 435 Pulau Batam 564-6 Pulau Batu Daka 674-5 Pulau Betang 647 Pulau Biak 467-71, 467 Pulau Bidadari 71 Pulau Bintan 566-8 Pulau Bobale 416 Pulau Bunaken 10, 683-7, 683, 10 Pulau Cubadak 540 Pulau Datok Beach 616 Pulau Derawan 608-9 Pulau Dodola 416
Pulau Do’o 386 Pulau Dua Bird Sanctuary 71 Pulau Gunung Api 435 Pulau Halmahera 413-18, 413 Pulau Handeuleum 76 Pulau Hatta 435-6 Pulau Hoga 694-5 Pulau Kadidiri 675 Pulau Kahyangan 71 Pulau Kakaban 610 Pulau Kaledupa 694 Pulau Kambing 647 Pulau Karimunjawa 156 Pulau Kayangan 643 Pulau Kei Besar 443 Pulau Kei Kecil 439-43 Pulau Kelor 71 Pulau Kemujan 156 Pulau Kepa 372 Pulau Kolorai 416 Pulau Kumala 599 Pulau Lembeh 688-9 Pulau Lihukan 647 Pulau Macan 71 Pulau Madura 167-71, 168 Pulau Maitara 412 Pulau Malenge 676 Pulau Mansinam 457 Pulau Marak 540 Pulau Maratua 609 Pulau Mare 412 Pulau Meoswarek 471 Pulau Molana 426 Pulau Morotai 416 Pulau Moyo 341-2 Pulau Natuna 611 Pulau Ndana 386 Pulau Ndao 386-7 Pulau Neilaka 438 Pulau Nias 511-17, 512 history 512-13 safety 513 travel to/from 513 travel within 514 Pulau Onrust 71 Pulau Ontoloe 362 Pulau Pagang 540 Pulau Panaitan 76 Pulau Pasi 647 Pulau Penyenget 567 Pulau Peucang 76 Pulau Pura 372 Pulau Rhun 437-8 Pulau Rubiah 525 Pulau Rumberpon 460 Pulau Run 437-8 Pulau Rurbas Kecil 471 Pulau Rutong 362
803 Pura Petitenget 218 Pura Puncak Penulisan 282 Pura Segara 241, 269 Pura Taman Ayun 293 Pura Taman Saraswati 246-7 Pura Tanah Lot 293 Pura Ulun Danu Bratan 283 Puru Kambera 392 Purwokerto 106 Putussibau 617-18 Pyramid 481
R
rabies 779 Raden Ajeng Kartini 155 rafting 34 Gunung Halimun National Park 82 Gunung Leuser National Park 531 Loksado 632 Tana Toraja 658 Ubud 252 Raha 692 Rahai’i Pangun 626 Raja Ampat Islands 12, 452-7, 453, 12 accommodation 454-7 activities 452-4 travel to/within 456-7 Rajegwesi 192 Rakik Rakik 554 Ramadan 724, 749 Rancabali 92 Rangda 203-4 Ransiki 460 Rante Balla 665 Rante Buda 664 Rante Sopang 664 Rantepao 651-7, 652 Rantung 338-9 Ratenggaro 399 Rawa Biru 483 religion 704-6, 723-6, see also Hinduism Bali 201-2 Rembitan 331 Rendang 267 Rende 392-3 responsible travel 17 diving 30 hiking & trekking 36-7 Riau 562-8 Rimba Reptile Park 262 Rinca 348 Riung 361-2 Rote 384-7 Rua 397 Ruteng 357
S
Saba 470 Saba Beach 264 Sabang 524 Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary 247, 249 Sa’dan 659 Sade 331 Sadengan 193 safety 762-3, 769, 772, 779-80 Bukit Lawang 496 Gunung Bromo 185 Kalimantan 588 Lombok 305 Muller Mountains 604 Papua 450 Pulau Nias 513 Sibolga 510 Sumbawa 336-7 Wamena 473 Salotangah 648 Samarinda 593-6, 594 Sambilangan 169 Samboja Lestari 591 Sampalan 246 Sampang 169 Sangir-Talaud Islands 690 Santai 423 Sanur 232-6, 234 Sape 345 Sarongge 85 Sawahlunto 552 scams 763 Pura Besakih 267 Schelling House 431 Sebanjar 374 Sebatu 262 Seima 478 Sekaten 138 Sekongkang 338-9 Sekonyer 620 Sekotong 305 Selamon 435 Selang 277 Selat 267 Selekta 179 Selo 132 Selong 336 Selong Blanak 335 Semarang 145-50, 146 accommodation 147-8 drinking 148-9 entertainment 149 food 148-9 sights 145-7 travel to/within 149-50 Semarapura 265-6 Sembakung 610
INDE X P- S
Pulau Samalona 643 Pulau Sangalaki 610 Pulau Saparua 425-7 Pulau Sebesi 581 Pulau Sebuku 581 Pulau Selayar 647 Pulau Sempu 180 Pulau Sepa 71 Pulau Seram 427-8, 428 Pulau Sikuai 540 Pulau Simelue 526 Pulau Tanimbar Kei 443 Pulau Tekaneng 618 Pulau Temba 362 Pulau Ternate 12, 404-11, 404, 12 Pulau Ternate (Alor archipelago) 372 Pulau Tidore 411-12, 412 Pulau Tiga 362 Pulau Tomia 694-5 Pulau UM 451 Pulau Una Una 676 Pulau Wangi Wangi 694 Pulau Weh 523-5 Pulau Wundi 471 Pulau Zum Zum 416 Puncak Lawang 554 puppet museums Museum Wayang 51 Setia Darma House of Masks and Puppets 262 puppets 507, 735 Pura Klotek Beach 264 Pura Masceti Beach 264 puras, see also temples Pura Batu Bolong 307 Pura Batu Klotek 264 Pura Batur 282 Pura Besakih 266-7 Pura Bukit Tageh 266 Pura Dalem Agung 249 Pura Dalem Balangan 228 Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped 245 Pura Dalem Penunggekan 265 Pura Desa 269 Pura Desa Ubud 246 Pura Gamang Pass 274 Pura Goa Lawah 268-9 Pura Gunung Lebah 253 Pura Jagatnatha 237 Pura Kehen 265 Pura Lingsar 304 Pura Luhur Batukau 286 Pura Luhur Ulu Watu 229 Pura Marajan Agung 246 Pura Masceti 264 Pura Meru 302 Pura Pasar Agung 268 Pura Penataran Agung 266
804
INDE X S
Sembalun Valley 327 Sembungan 108 Seminyak 13, 218-23, 210, 220-1, 13 accommodation 218-19 drinking 221 entertainment 221-2 food 219-20 information 223 shopping 222-3 travel to/from 223 Senaru 326-7 Sendangbiru 180 Senggarang 567 Senggigi 307-11, 308 Sengkang 648-9 Senopi area 459 Sentani 464-5, 465 Senterbung 609 Seventeen Islands Marine Park 361-2 shark finning 335 shopping, see also individual locations bargaining 761 language 784 Sibetan 267 Sibolga 510-11 Sidemen Road 266 Siguntu 660 Sikka 369-70 Silinduang Bulan 551 Sindanglaut 73 Singaraja 286, 288 Singkawang 614 Singkil 526-7 Sire 325-6 Situ Patengan 92 Situs Megalitik Tutari 466 Slopeng 171 smoking 756 snorkelling 18, 31 Aas 276 Banda Islands 429 Bandaneira 432 Banyak Islands 527 Candidasa 272 Gili Air 313-14 Gili Meno 316 Gili Trawangan 319 Jemeluk 276 Karimunjawa Islands 156 Komodo 347 Kupa Kupa 416 Labuanbajo 349, 350-2 Lovina 288-9
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Nusa Lembongan 243 Padaido Islands 471 Padangbai 269 Pantai Bira 644-5 Pantai Trikora 568 Pasir Putih 274 Permuteran 292 Pulau Biak 467 Pulau Bintan 568 Pulau Babi 370 Pulau Bobale 416 Pulau Bunaken 10, 684, 10 Pulau Mansinam 457 Pulau Moyo 341 Pulau Pangabaton 370 Pulau Satonda 341 Pulau Talango 171 Pulau Weh 523-4, 525 Raja Ampat Islands 454, 12 Sangir-Talaud Islands 690 Sanur 233 Selang 276 Senggigi 307 Seventeen Islands Marine Park 361-2 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 690 Tanjung Karang 671 Tluk Sawai 428 Togean Islands 673, 676 Tulamben 279 Soasio 412 Soe 380-1 Soeman HS County Library 563 Sofifi 414 Soinrat 443 Solo 135-42, 136 accommodation 139-40 courses 138 drinking 140 entertainment 140-1 festivals & events 138 food 140 history 135 shopping 141 sights 135-8 travel to/within 141-2 Solo Batik Carnival 138 songket 733 Sorong 450-2 South Bali 207-41, 208 South Kalimantan 627-32 South Lombok 330-5 South Papua 482-4 South Sulawesi 636-49 history 636-7 South Sumatra 572-5 Southeast Sulawesi 690-5
Southwestern Peninsula (Lombok) 305-7 spas Kerobokan 223 Sanur 233 Seminyak 218 Ubud 251-2 spice trade 703-4, 707-8 sport 735-6 Sriwedari Amusement Park 138 Stone Chairs (Danau Toba) 505 street food 124, 750 Sugokmo 478 Suharto 714-18 Sukadana 616-17 Sukamade 192 Sukarno 710, 711, 712-14 Sukawati 262 Sulamadaha 410 Sulawesi 41, 633-96, 634 accommodation 633 activities 28, 31, 34, 36 climate 633 food 633, 747-8 highlights 634 history 635, 646, 665, 677, 679, 690-1 travel seasons 633 travel to/within 635-6 wildlife 39 Sullukang 661 Sumatra 41, 485-582, 486-7 accommodation 485 activities 28, 31, 33, 35-6, 38 beaches 28 climate 485 food 485, 747 highlights 486-7 history 488 travel seasons 485 travel to/within 488-9 wildlife 39 Sumatra Rhino Sanctuary 579, 19 Sumba 387-400, 388 culture 387, 389 East Sumba 392-3 history 387 South-Central Sumba 393 West Sumba 396-400 Sumbawa 336-45, 337 East Sumbawa 342-5 safety 336-7 travel within 337 West Sumbawa 337-9 Sumbawa Besar 339-41 Sumber Brantas 179 Sumenep 169-71, 170 Sumur Jalatunda 108
805 Ulu Watu 229 Yo Yo’s 338 Susupu 414 Syokosimo 479
T
Tabanan 295 Taboso 413 Ta’Buntuleng 647 Taibassi 665 Tai Pei Kong 679 Taka Bone Rate 647-8 Takengon 529-30 Takome 410 Takpala 374 Taliwang 337-8 Taman Budaya Cultural Centre 534 Taman Burung 316 Taman Mini Indonesia Indah 55-6 Taman Nasional Kerinci Seblat 557-9 Taman Tirta Gangga 275 Taman Wisata Tetebatu 329 Tambakrejo 180 Tambolaka 399-400 Tampaksiring 261 Tampangallo 662 Tana Toraja 8, 649-62, 650-1, 8 funeral festivals 21, 655 Tanah Lot 293 Tanete 665 Tangkahan 499-500 Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve 689-90 Tangkuban Prahu 92 Tangma 479 Tanjung Aan 334 Tanjung Benoa 232 Tanjung Bumi 171 Tanjung Desert 305 Tanjung Harapan 620 Tanjung Isuy 601 Tanjung Karang 669, 671 Tanjung Lokan 618-19 Tanjung Pinang 566-8 Tanjung Puting National Park 9, 619-22, 9 Tanjung Selor 610 Tanjung Sial 424 tap water 756, 780 Tapaktuan 526 Tarakan 610 Taramanu 397 Tarimbang 393 Taro 262 tarsiers 689 Tarung 393 Taupe 664 Tawangmangu 144
taxis 774-5 Tegurwangi 576 Telaga Cebong 107-8 Telaga Dringo 108 Telaga Lele 180 Telaga Nila 108 Telaga Pengilon 107 Telaga Sat 180 Telaga Warna 107 Telebatu 329-30 telephone services 17, 764 Teluk Air 616 Teluk Dalam 515 Teluk Dore 451 Teluk Hijau 192 Teluk Lagundri 515-16 Teluk Sawai 428 Teluk Terima 297 Tembamba 662 Temkessi 383-4 temples 202, see also puras Arjuna Complex 107 Batu Kalde 95 Benoa 232 Borobudur Temple 109-10, 13, 327-14, 330-1, 328, 14 Candi Astano 571 Candi Belahan 179 Candi Bima 107 Candi Brahma 133 Candi Cetho 143-4 Candi Dwarawati 107 Candi Gatutkaca 107 Candi Gedong Dua 571 Candi Gedong Satu 571 Candi Gumpung 571 Candi Jago 177-8 Candi Jolotundo 179 Candi Kalasan 134 Candi Kedaton 571-2 Candi Kembar Batu 571 Candi Kidal 178 Candi Koto Mahligai 572 Candi Pawon 111 Candi Pembakaran 133-4 Candi Sambisari 134 Candi Sari 134 Candi Sewu 133 Candi Shiva Mahadeva 133 Candi Singosari 176-7 Candi Sukuh 9, 142-3, 9 Candi Sumberawan 177 Candi Tinggi 571 Candi Vishnu 133 Chinese temple (Senggarang) 567 Gedung Batu 146-7 Gedung Songo Temples 151-2 Jin de Yuan 52
INDE X S -T
Sundak Barat 130 Sungai Arot 623 Sungai Bungan 618-19 Sungai Kapuas 617-19 Sungai Mahakam 596-603 Sungai Penuh 556-7 Sungai Rateboya 399 Sungai Walanae 648 Surabaya 158, 160-7, 160 accommodation 162-3 drinking 164-5 entertainment 165 food 163-4 shopping 165 sights 161-2 travel to/from 165-6 travel within 166-7 Surabaya Heritage Track 164 Surakarta, see Solo surat jalan 445 surfing 19, 31, 33-4, 207, 3, 32 Asu 516 Bali 207 Balian Beach 295 Banyak Islands 527 Batu Karas 100, 32 Bawa 516 Bono 513 Cimaja 82 Echo Beach 227 Gili Trawangan 319, 320 Hook 338 Kuta (Bali) 209 Kuta (Lombok) 332 Maci Point 342 Mawan 335 Mawi 335 Mentawai Islands 542-3 Miller’s Point 399 Nemberala 385 Nusa Lembongan 242 Pacitan 182 Pangandaran 95 Pantai Lakey 342 Pantai Suluban 229 Plengkung 193 Pulau Ndao 386-7 Pulau Nias 515 Pulau Panaitan 77 Pulau Simeulue 526 Senggigi 307 Squealers 385 Suckie Mama’s 386 Supershit 338 Supersuck 338 Telo Islands 513 T-Land 385 Tropical 338
806
INDE X T-W
temples continued Jodoh Temple 567 Kong Co Kong Tik Cun Ong temple 162 Kongco Tan Hu Cin Jin Chinese Temple 194 Ling Gwan Kiong 288 Mendut Temple & Monastery 111 Muara Jambi 571-2 Panataran 181 Plaosan Kidul 133 Plaosan Lor 133 Plaosan Temples 133 Prambanan Temples 132-3, 703 Puri Saren Agung 246 Singosari temples 176-8 Sun Tien Kong Chinese Temple 432 Tay Kak Sie temple 145 Tikus Temple 167 Vihara Bodhisatva Karaniya Metta 610 Vihara Darma Sasana 567 Tenganan 272 Tenggarong 598-600 Tentena 666-7 Tering 603 Tering Baru 603 Tering Lama 603 Tetegewo, 516 Tetoat 442 textiles 731-4 theatre 726-7 Thomas Parr Monument 560 Thousand Islands 70-1 Tiga Islands 424 Tikala 660 Tilanga 661 Timbararu 435 time 764, 784 Tinggi Hari 576 Tiong Ohang 603 tipping 762 Tirta Empul 261 Tirta Gangga 275-6 Tjong A Fie Mansion 492 Tobelo 414-15 Togean Islands 672-7, 674 travel to/from 657 toilets 764-5 Tokahale 398 tombs King Sidabutar 505 Maulana Yusuf 73 Sultan Agung 129
000 Map pages 000 Photo pages
Sunan Gunungjati 104 Sunan Kudus 152 Tomohon 687 Toraja people 654-5 tourist information 765 tours 775 Toya Bungkah 282-3 Toyapakeh 246 train travel 775 transport 768-75 language 784-5 public transport 774 travellers cheques 761 traveller’s diarrhoea 779 travel to/from Indonesia 768-70 travel within Indonesia 770-5 trekking, see hiking & trekking Troloyo cemetery 167 Trowulan 167 tsunamis 488, 514, 519, 521 Tual 438-9, 442 tubing Bukit Lawang 498 Tangkahan 500 Tugu Jepang 457 Tugu MacArthur 466 Tuk Tuk 504-10, 508 Tukangbesi Islands 694-5 Tulamben 278-9 Tulta 374 Tundrumbaho 516 Turtle Sanctuary 316 typhoid 779
U Ubud 246-60, 248-9, 250 accommodation 253-6 activities 251-2 courses 252 drinking 257-8 entertainment 258 festivals & events 253 food 256-7 shopping 259 sights 246-7, 249 tours 252-3 travel to/within 259-60 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival 253 Ugem 480 Ujung Kulon National Park 75-8 Ulu Watu 229-31, 230 Uma Pura 372 Ungasan 231
V
vacations 762 Van der Broecke Plantation 435
vegetarian food 751 Villa Isola 86 visas 17, 445, 765-6 VOC (United East India Company) 707-8 volcanoes 13, 189, 503, 737, 13 Gunung Api 13, 435 Gunung Api Gamalama 410 Gunung Arjuna 178 Gunung Bromo 127, 184-7 Gunung Colo 676 Gunung Dempo 576 Gunung Inerie 360 Gunung Kelud 181-2 Gunung Kerinci 558-9 Gunung Krakatau 13, 74-5, 581 Gunung Lokon 687 Gunung Merapi 129-31, 524, 552-3 Gunung Papandayan 94-5 Gunung Rajabasa 581 Gunung Rinjani 13, 327-9, 330-1, 328, 13 Gunung Semeru 187-8 Gunung Sesean 660 Gunung Sibayak 501-2 Gunung Sinabung 502 Gunung Singgalang 553 Gunung Tambora 342 Gunung Tilu 100 Gunung Welirang 178 Sangir-Talaud Islands 690 Tangkuban Prahu 92 Wawo Muda 361 volcano museums Merapi Museum 131 Museum Geologi 86-7 volunteering 766-7
W
Waai 424 Wae Rebo 358 Waiara 370 Waigalli 397 Waikabubak 393-6, 394 Waingapu 389-92, 390 Wainyapu 399 Waisak 111 Waitabar 393 Waiterang 370 Waiwarungu 397 Wakasihu 424 Walang 435 Wallace, Alfred Russel 636 Wallace Line 636 Wamena 472-8, 474 Wamerek 479 Wanci 694 Wangli 397
807 West Bali 293-7, 294 West Java 71-104, 72 West Kalimantan 610-19 West Papua 450-60 West Sulawesi 662-5 West Sumatra 533-59, 534 history 533 West Timor 374-84, 375 culture 384 history 375 white-water rafting 34 Gunung Halimun National Park 82 Ubud 252 wildlife 19, 38-9, 688, 689, 738-9, see also individual species Kalimantan 586 Lembeh Strait 688 Papua 470 wildlife sanctuaries & parks Bali Bird Park 262 Bali Safari & Marine Park 264 Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation 625 Elephant Safari Park 261-2 KWPLH Sun Bear Sanctuary 591 Penangkaran Buaya Crocodile Farm 591 Rimba Reptile Park 262 Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary 247, 249 Sumatra Rhino Sanctuary 579, 19 Turtle Sanctuary 316 Wimontok Mabel mummy 480 windsurfing 232, 233 Wodong 370 Woloara 366 Women in Indonesia 726 women travellers 767 women’s health 780 Wonosari Tea Plantation 178 Wonosobo 106-7 woodcarving 731 World War II 710-12 Wosilimo 480 Wuasa 668
Wula Podhu 393 Wuserem 479
Y
Yabaso 466 Yakiu 483 Yali people 481-2 Yamtel 443 Yayasan Pulau Banyak Wildlife Watching 527 Yeh Pulu 260 yoga Gili Trawangan 321 Jakarta 57 Ubud 251 Yogyakarta 117 Yogyakarta 113-29, 114 accommodation 118-19, 121-3 activities 117 courses 117 drinking 124 entertainment 124-5 festivals & events 118 food 123-4 history 113 internet access 127 itineraries 116 Kota Gede 116-17 medical services 127 money 127 post 127 Prawirotaman area 119, 121, 123, 122 safety 126 shopping 125-6 sights 113, 115-17 Sosrowijayan area 118-19, 123, 120 tourist offices 127 tours 117-18 travel agencies 127 travel to/from 127-8 travel within 128-9 Yuarima 480 Yudha Mandala Tama monument 288 Yudhoyono, Susilo Bambang 718-19
INDE X W-Z
Wanokaka district 397-8 Warah Kubu 616 Wasur National Park 483 Watampone 648 water 756, 780 waterfalls Air Terjun 13 Tingkat 559 Air Terjun Bantimurung 643 Air Terjun Cobanbaung 178 Air Terjun Cubanrondo 179 Air Terjun Gangga 326 Air Terjun Hengahenga 671 Air Terjun Jukut 329 Air Terjun Salopa 666 Air Terjun Sindang Gila 326 Air Terjun Singsing 292 Air Terjun Sipiso-Piso 502 Air Terjun Takapala 644 Air Terjun Telun Berasap 559 Air Terjun Tiga Tingkat 540 Air Terjun Tiu Kelep 326 Air Terjun Tiu Pupas 326 Batukandik 245 Cibeureum Falls 84 Curug Gendang 73 Grojogan Sewu 144 Lemba Harau 553 Mambulilin Sarambu 664 Moni 366 Munduk 285 Pulau Batu Daka 674 waterskiing 232 Watsin 443 Watu Karung 182 Watu Ulo 191 Wawo Muda 361 Way Kambas National Park 579-80 weather 16, see also individual regions Wedanku valley 481 Wehea Forest 605-6 weights 756 Welarek 482 Werapak Elosak mummy 480 Wesagalep 479
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Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Alejandro, Brian Aardvaark, Sybrandus Adema, Mauricio Aguilera Linde, John Ahern, Linda Ambrosio, Kenneth Anderson, Luc Anthonis, Bagus Aropasa Yopri Sam, Rebecca Austin, Yuri Awanohara, Marwa Ayadi, Christiaan Baan, Danielle Barkerwood, Alison Barton, Isabella Bauer, Sebastien Beauchamps, Hanna Beckmann, Rutger Bimmel, Amei Binns, Katrin Bock, Anja Bohnsack, Yvonne Bohr, Erwin Bolwidt, Milan Boom, Gary Borgan, Tobias Bothe, Erik Bouwmeester, Sonja Brady, Kim Brandis, Bonnie Brown, Doris Buchholzer, Nikki Buran, Gregory Campbell, John Carey, Celine Carnegie, Kirk Chen, Brendan Cherry, David Christian Berg, Marie Christiansson, Agnieszka Chrzanowska, Aimee Clark, Bruno Clarke, Roxanne Cole, Paul Cooper, Fabrice Coradin, Thomas Coremans, Monique Counihan, Francis Cousin, Daisy Crawford, Martha Crunkleton, Jakub Danilewicz, Geoff De Burca, Herman De Wild, Massimiliano De Reviziis, Sarah De Wulf, Stefanie Decker, Cristina Delgado, Jack Dempsey, Henk Den Toom, Walter Denzel, Toon Dewerchin, Putri Diah Ekowati, Anne Dickson, Gerhard Dieter Ruf, Christopher Dolan, Evelyne Donnadieu,
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BEHIND THE SCENES
Lindenberg, Patrik Lindenthal, Richard Lloyd Parry, Thomas Long, Michael Luethi, Geugje Luik, Martin Lutterjohann, Danny Maas, Mandy Macjames, Linda Madani Grondin, Anna Maehr, Luc Major, Alessandro Mario Fabbri, Tom Mason, Stefan Matser, Dean Mchenry, Jr, Adam Mcinnis, Els Mellink, Anja Mertens, Elisabeth Mihou, Ian Miller, Sheila Miller, Nam Misuk, Braydon Moloney, Paul Morse, Caroline Mozley, Roberta Muccioli, Andreas Mueller, Tessa Nagels & Folkert Veenkamp, John Nally, Michal Nebus, Maëlle Nexer, Doris Nicholson, Olly Niewold, Sri Ningsih, Pae Nope, Bart Nys, Donal O’halloran, Thomas O’keefe, Awa Okon, René Olde Olthof, Danielle Onesto, Ronald Oosting, Diana Oser, Carl Ottow, Margherita Palomba, Verena Papenfuß & Paul Baade, Daniel Paquet, Lewa Pardomuan, Ronald Perkel, Nancy Peterson, Marland Philippe, Jesse Pietilä, Martin Pils, Rosemarie Pippan, Ellie Pot, Simon Pratt, Phil Prescott, Iestyn Prosser, Adriansyah Putera, John Pyle, Vikki Radford, Teemu Rahkola, Oliver Ramseyer, Asher Rapkin, Peter Ras & Bas Vriesema, Timothy Rea, Ian Reed, Ludwig Reinhard, Kai Riedl, Katrin Riegelnegg, Herwig Ronsmans, Freddie Rousseau, Hasyim Rudiansyah, Max Rudolph, Natalie Ryan, Bernard Sambare, Xandra Savelkouls, Jen Schoenau, Wilgis Schoffelmeijer, George Schoneveld, Chiel Schoorl, Sven Schubbe, Yvonne Schuller, Anne Schulze, Johan Segers, Caroline Seymour, Laura Shapiro Kramer, Hera Shinysmile, Linda Sihombing, Ina Silas, Ken Silver, Ray Sinniger, Michael Sipes, Niels Smidt, Jan Smit, Janice Smith, Maja Sontag, Marijn Souren, Delphine Sprüngli, Jaroslav Stedron, Mike Steuri, Peter Stevens, Hans Steyskal, Matt Stovold, Tunya Struzina, Yanev Suissa, Nienke Sweers, Helge Swendrak, Paul Tanis, Janneke Tax, Brian Thompson, Ellenoor Tinselboer & Tim De Putter, Michel Tintin Deslanes, Lidija Tkalcec, Kay Turner, Keith Turner, Anna Van Beek, Astrid Van Wijk, Brenda Van Lier, Carolien Van Zuilekom, Dana Van De Kamp, Gerald Van Der Wijngaart & Deirdre Veen, Ilona Van Breugel, Jeanette Van Oostrum, Oliver Van Straaten, Sanne Van Oosten, Sarah Van Den Bos, Wouter Van Der Meulen, Johan Van’t Geloof, Adrien Venot, Rob Verdaasdonk, Wiebe Vijn, Patricia Villalain, Jeff Vize, Nienke Vos, Tanya Ward, Silvia Wasserbacher, Petr Weikert, Jo Weston, Ted Wetselaar, Remy Wetzels, Angela Whitney, Judith Whittle, Lyndsey Whyte, Endro Wicaksana, Wida Widyawati, Erica Wijarnako, Julia Wijnmaalen, Jeanette Willighagen, Paul Wilson, Lennart Wingelaar, Matt Winters, Rg Winters, Brian Worsley, Gabriella Wortmann, Brogan Wray, Katrien Wuyts, Johan Yasin, Natasha Yeend, Tai Yoo, George Young, Andrea Zanchi, Monica Zehnder, Juergen Zemsauer, Volker Zizelmann, Anne Zouridakis
AUTHOR THANKS Ryan Ver Berkmoes This list just seems to grow. Many thanks to friends like Pattycakes Miklautsch, Ibu Cat, Hanafi, Nengah, Eliot Cohen, Jamie James, Kerry and Milton Turner, Pascal and Pika and many more. At Lonely Planet, thanks to my buddy Ilaria Walker and the entire publishing and production teams. My co-authors rock and have produced a fab book. And to Frank Sinatra who night and day picked me a (golden) plum.
Brett Atkinson Terima kasih to Nando for the road trip and for always making time for good Sumatran coffee. Thanks to Elvis, Scuzz and Ulrich, and across on the Mentawai Islands, special thanks to Harris and the boat crew for ensuring I reached the archipelago’s hidden nooks and crannies. Thanks to my fellow scribes and the Lonely Planet inhouse team – especially Ilaria Walker for her support – and finally, thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in Selandia Baru.
Celeste Brash I had a small army of travellers and locals who helped me. Particular thanks to Emre Sirakaya, excellent travel buddy. Huge thanks to Nini and Gav (Geordie connection!), Pudin at Pondok Lestari, Elda Tato and family, Domingus, Mathee, Elena, Shiela and Glen Ord, Eva Cmorejova, Simon at NAD, Lorenso, Giorgio and Daniele, @lelakibugis, Edy at Oasis and the many other locals and travellers who I met and helped me on the way. As always, endless gratefulness to my ever-patient family.
Stuart Butler First and foremost I must thank my wife, Heather, for her patience and understanding on this project and to my young son, Jake, for putting up with his daddy going away for so long. Thank you also to Mario Fernandes for his patience, Dave Pentland and Amy Ilic for company on the road and Mr Darmawan for being a saviour!
John Noble Thanks to all who helped my Papua mission with guidance, facts and fun, especially Andy Keller, Bakau Tiau, Benny Lesomar, Bony Kondahon, Charles Roring, Dinas Pariwisata Asmat, Felix Berlin, ‘Fuji’ Fujiwara, Justinus Daby, Lipius Kogoya, Marcel Toung, Merry Yoweni and family, Michael Leitzinger, ‘Milou Sly’, Mono Melemono, Pino Moch, Reynaldo Corral, Rolando Edmond, Rudie Yarangga, Wendius Melemono, the Yenkoranu gang and Yoris Wanggai.
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Adam Skolnick
Iain Stewart Java would be impossible to cover without some incredible contacts and friends. Thanks to Simon ‘which page is that on’ Pitchfork; the Cianjur boys; Enoss in Bandung; Paul in Batu Karas; Jack in Borobudur; Eno (of course!), Atik, Yuono in Yogya; Fitri in Semarang; Tim in Surabaya; Adi in Madura;
This Book The 1st edition of Indonesia, way back in 1986, was the collective work of Alan Samalgaski, Ginny Bruce and Mary Covernton. Cramming this immense, sprawling jewel of an archipelago into one action-packed volume has kept us busy ever since. In subsequent editions we’ve had 23 different authors travelling the country in search of adventure, enlightenment and ferry timetables. The 9th edition was coordinated by Ryan Ver Berkmoes, who lead a crack team of authors including Celeste Brash, Muhammad Cohen, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Guyan Mitra, John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart and Steve Waters. This 10th edition was again coordinated by our Indo Guru, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, and expertly researched and written by Brett Atkinson, Celeste
Paul Stiles My thanks to the many people who guided me safely from one end of Kalimantan to the other, and back again: Lucas, Rahim, Ahmad, Kaya and family, Alex, Erwin, Gaye, Aini, Shady. To my co-authors, for all their valuable advice and comments along the way. And to Ilaria, for making the Cross-Borneo Trek possible.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Borobudur Temple, Java. Antony Giblin/Lonely Planet Images ©
Brash, Stuart Butler, John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart and Paul Stiles. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Melbourne office, and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editor Ilaria Walker
Coordinating Editors Elin Berglund, Luna Soo
Kate Daly, Carly Hall, Lauren Hunt, Kellie Langdon
Assisting Cartographers Karusha Ganga, Laura Matthewman, Chris Tsismetzis
Assisting Layout Designer Katherine Marsh Cover Research Naomi Parker
Internal Image Research
Coordinating Cartographer Hunor Csutoros Coordinating Layout Designer Wibowo Rusli Managing Editors Sasha
Aude Vauconsant
Baskett, Bruce Evans
David Carroll, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Justin Flynn, Larissa Frost, Gabrielle Innes, Jouve India, Andi Jones, Kate McDonell, Catherine Naghten, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Jessica Rose, Dianne Schallmeiner, Amanda Sierp, Angela Tinson, Tasmin Waby, Gerard Walker, Juan Winata
Managing Cartographers Anita Banh, Diana von Holdt
Managing Layout Designers Chris Girdler, Jane Hart
Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Janice Bird, Jessica Crouch,
Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic
Thanks to Imogen Bannister,
BEHIND THE SCENES
Thanks to Edwin Lerrick, Simion Liddiard, Marcus Stevens, Andy Wheatcroft, Fern Perry, Will Goodman, Paul Landgraver, Astrid and Grace at Karma Kayak, Alina in Senggigi, Barbara at Lombok Guide, Marij in Labuanbajo, Sandrine and Komang at Swasti, Diego and Maria in Rote, Abba in the Bandas, Michael in Ambon. Philip at Sumba Adventure, and the wonderful Pantai Oro family. Thanks as always to Brett and Made in Bali, Ryan and my co-authors, and to sweet and lovely Georgiana Johnson.
Agus and Sebastian in Malang. And to all at Lonely Planet, including Ilaria, Ryan and my co-authors.
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