©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
31 5
Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK
We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.
OUR READERS
Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Janet Noonan, Gareth Owen, Petr Vůjtěch
AUTHOR THANKS Neil Wilson
Many thanks to the usual gang, especially Carol Downie, and also to all the bartenders, bookshop owners, baristas and bellhops who helped out with my endless questions about the best places to eat, drink etc. Plus a big thank you to co-author Mark for making the book so much fun to research, and to Joe and Gemma at LP for behind-the-scenes support.
Mark Baker
I would like to thank the many employees of the Czech tourist information offices whom I relied on for help and guidance during my research, particularly my friend Katerina Pavlitova at Prague City Tourism, and Eliška Koričarová at the Information Centre in Český Krumlov. I also owe a debt of gratitude to my friends in Prague, particularly Czechs, for always showing me new things about this city and country. Lastly, thanks to my co-author Neil Wilson for picking up the dining tab on more than one occasion while researching Prague. Cheers!
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Cover photograph: Church of Our Lady Before Týn, Old Town Square, Prague, Francesco Iacobelli/AWL Images.
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
THIS BOOK This 11th edition of Lonely Planet’s Prague & the Czech Republic was researched and written by Neil Wilson and Mark Baker. The previous three editions were also written by Neil and Mark. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office and produced by the following:
Commissioning Editor Joe Bindloss Destination Editor Gemma Graham Coordinating Editor Lauren O’Connell Product Editor Katie O’Connell Senior Cartographer Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Virginia Moreno
Senior Editor Karyn Noble Assisting Editors Bruce Evans, Kate Mathews, Charlotte Orr Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Elin Berglund, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Genesys India, Jouve India, Indra Kilfoyle, Wayne Murphy, Wibowo Rusli, John Taufa, Juan Winata
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
317
See also separate subindexes for:
Index 1989 students’ memorial 126
A
absinthe 41 accessibility 308 accommodation 15, 190-200, 309, see also Sleeping subindex activities 24-6, see also Sports & Activities subindex Adria Palace 125 Adria Theatre 125 air travel 296 airports 296, 297 All Saints’ Chapel 70 ambulance 303 antiques 49 Archbishop’s Chateau (Krmo) 267 Archbishop’s Palace (Olomouc) 264 Archdiocesan Museum (Olomouc) 264 architecture 10, 50-9 area codes 306 Army Museum 149 Art Gallery for Children 104 arts 22, 284-8, see also literature, music Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Valice) 258 Astronomical Clock 100-1, 100 Astronomical Tower 109 At the Golden Snake 107 ATMs 304
B
Ball-Game House 67 Barborská (Kutná Hora) 185 Basilica of St George 71, 51
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
bathrooms 307 Becherovka 41 Bechyně Gate (Tábor) 219 beer 10, 22, 39, 237, 292-4, 11, 39, see also breweries etiquette 17 festivals 25 museums 142, 222 Bethlehem Chapel 109-11 Bezručovy Sady (Olomouc) 265 bicycle travel 33, 34, 300-1 Bílek Villa 78 Black Tower (České Budějovice) 203 Blansko 247 boat travel 32-3, 32 Bohemia 201-38, 202 Bohemian Chancellery 70 Bone Church, the 59 books 22, 270, 289-90 Bretfeld Palace 86 breweries 175, 222, 293-4 Brewery Museum (Plzeň) 222 Brno 240-8, 242 Bubeneč 63, 162-9, 350-1 accommodation 199-200 drinking & nightlife 163, 168-9 entertainment 169 food 163, 164-7 highlights 162 shopping 169 sports & activities 163, 169 transport 163 walks 165, 165 Budweiser Budvar Brewery (České Budějovice) 203 bus travel 296-7, 298 business hours 40, 48, 305-6
C
Capuchin Monastery (Brno) 242 car travel 297, 298-9 carnival 24, 26
5 EATING P321 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P322 3 ENTERTAINMENT P323 7 SHOPPING P323 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P323 4 SLEEPING P323 Castle Museum & Tower (Český Krumlov) 210 Cathedral of St Barbara (Kutná Hora) 185 Cathedral of Sts Peter & Paul (Brno) 241 cell phones 14, 306-7 Ceremonial Hall 99 Černý, David 88, 90, 125, 175, 222, 288, 22, 56 České Budějovice 202-8, 204 Český Krumlov 12, 208-13, 209, 12 Český Krumlov Castle 59, 210, 59 Chapel of Mirrors 109 Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows 77 Chapel of St Jan Sarkander (Olomouc) 264 Chapel of St Roch 149 Chapel of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary 109 Chapel of the Holy Cross 67 Charles Bridge 7, 83-5, 109, 3, 6-7, 83 Charles Square 128 Charles University Botanical Garden 129 Chemistry Gallery 157 chemists 304 Children’s Island 90 children, travel with 27-8, 246 Chodová Planá 237 Chodovar Brewery ( Chodová) 237 Christmas 26 Church of Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary) 227 Church of Our Lady Before Týn 103 Church of Our Lady of the Snows 127 Church of Our Lady of Unceasing Succour 86 Church of Our Lady Victorious 89 Church of St Clement 109
Church of St Francis 106 Church of St Francis Seraphinus 107 Church of St Ignatius 128 Church of St James 104 Church of St James (Brno) 243 Church of St James (Telč) 250 Church of St Michael 90 Church of St Nicholas 105 Church of St Nicholas (Znojmo) 260 Church of St Roch 75 Church of St Vitus (Český Krumlov) 210 Church of Sts Peter & Paul 173 Church of Sts Peter & Paul (Karlovy Vary) 227 Church of Sts Peter & Paul (Mělník) 187 Church of the Ascension of the Cross (Františkovy Lázně) 234 Church of the Assumption of Our Lady 75 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Church of the Holy Saviour 106, 108 Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord 137 Church of the Nativity of Our Lord 77 Civil Defence Shelter (Olomouc) 265 Clam-Gallas Palace 104 climate 15, 24-6 clubbing 41, 46, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex Colloredo-Mansfeld Palace 104 Colonnade (Mariánské Lázně) 234, 59 communist rule 278-9 consulates 302-3
31 8
INDEX C-K
Convent of St Ursula 126 Convent on St Agnes 106 costs 14, 40, 190, 302, 306 crafts 49 credit cards 305 crystal 47, 49 customs regulations 302 cycling 33, 34, 300-1 Czech language 14, 17, 18, 309-14 Czech Museum of Music 89 Czech Silver Museum (Kutná Hora) 184 Czechoslovakia 277-9
D
Daliborka 72 Dancing Building 127, 56 dangers & annoyances 16 day trips 180-9 Dean Church of the Lord’s Transfiguration on Mt Tábor (Tábor) 219 Decanal Church of the Virgin Mary & St Giles (Třeboň) 215 Dejvice 63, 162-9, 350-1 accommodation 199-200 drinking & nightlife 163, 168-9 entertainment 169 food 163, 164-7 highlights 162 shopping 169 sports & activities 163, 169 transport 163 Dietrichstein Burial Vault (Mikulov) 255 DinoPark (Plzeň) 223 disabilities, travellers with 308 Divoká Šárka 166 Dox Centre for Contemporary Art 157 drinking 39-42, 143, 292-4, see also individual neighbourhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex language 310-12 drinks, see absinthe, beer, wine driving 297, 298-9 driving licenses 298
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Dubček, Alexander 278-9 Dvořák Museum 128-9 Dvorak Sec Contemporary 104-5
E
Easter 24, 30, 26 economy 271 Egon Schiele Art Centrum (Český Krumlov) 210 electricity 302 embassies 302-3 emergencies 303, 304 language 312 entertainment 43-6, see also film, music, theatre, individual neighbourhoods, Entertainment subindex Estates Theatre 108, 53 etiquette 17, 19, 37, 40 events 24-6
F
fashion 49 Faust House 128 Ferdinand, Archduke Franz 183, 276 festivals 24-6 film 44, 270, 290-1 Flower Garden (Kroměříž) 268 food 29, 35-8, 35, see also individual neighbourhoods, Eating subindex children, travel with 28 festivals 25 language 310-12 shopping 49 football 30 Forman, Miloš 290 Franciscan Garden 127 František Palacký Memorial 127 Františkovy Lázně 234 Franz Kafka Monument 106 Franz Kafka Museum 88 free attractions 31 Fryderyk Chopin Memorial Museum (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Futura Gallery 175
G
Galerie Rudolfinum 106 galleries 28, 31, 65 Gallery of Central Bohemia (Kutná Hora) 186 Garden on the Ramparts 71
gardens, see parks & gardens Gastronomy Museum 107 gay travellers 140, 282, 303 Ghetto Museum (Terezín) 188 glass 47, 49 Goat Hill (Mikulov) 255 Goethe Institute 127 Golden Lane 71 Gottwald, Klement 147, 148 Grand Hotel Evropa 122 Granovsky Palace 105 Great Synagogue (Plzeň) 223
H
Habsburgs, the 275-6 handicrafts 47 Havel, Václav 270, 279-80 health 304 Heydrich, Reinhard 128, 129 highlights 6-12 hiking 230, 236 history 23, 272-80 Hitler, Adolf 277-8 Hluboka Castle 59 Hluboká Chateau 207, 58 Holešovice 63, 154-61, 348-9 accommodation 198-9 drinking & nightlife 155, 158-60 entertainment 160-1 food 155, 157-8 highlights 154 shopping 161 transport 155 walks 159, 159 holidays 306 Holy Hill (Mikulov) 255 Holy Name of Jesus Church (Telč) 250 Holy Trinity Column (Olomouc) 262 Hot Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) 227 Hotel Crowne Plaza 164 Hotel Jalta Nuclear Bunker 125 House at the Black Bear 105 House at the Stone Bell 105 House at the Three F iddles 86 House of Arts (Brno) 244 House of the Black Madonna 107, 55 House of the Golden Horseshoe 86
House of the Hlahol Choir 127 House of the Two Suns 86 Hrabal, Bohumil 289 Hradčany 63, 64-80, 330-1 accommodation 193 drinking & nightlife 65, 80 food 65, 78-80 highlights 64 shopping 80 transport 65 walks 79, 79 Hus, Jan 274 Husák, Gustáv 279 Hussite Museum (Tábor) 218 Hussites, the 218, 274-5
I
ice hockey 30, 161, 282 internet access 303 internet resources, see websites Italian Court (Kutná Hora) 186 itineraries 20-1
J
Jan Becher Museum (Karlovy Vary) 227 Jan Palach Square 106 jewellery 47 Jewish Cemetery (Třebíč) 252 Jewish Cemetery & Ceremonial Hall (Mikulov) 255 Jewish history 33, 277 Jindřišská Tower 124 Jirásek Square 127 John Lennon Wall 87 Josefov 105-7 Jubilee Synagogue 124
K
Kafka, Franz 88, 106, 149, 290 Kampa 88 Kampa Museum 89 Karel Zeman Museum 13, 87 Karlín 63, 145-53, 346-7 accommodation 198 drinking & nightlife 146, 151-3 entertainment 146, 153 food 146, 149-51 highlights 145 transport 146 walks 150, 150
319
L
Labyrinth under the Cabbage Market (Brno) 242 language 14, 17, 18, 309-14 Lapidárium 164 Lednice Chateau 258 left luggage 297 legal matters 303-4 Lego Museum 111 Leica Gallery 125 lesbian travellers 140, 282, 303 Lesser Fortress (Terezín) 188-9 Letná Gardens 157 Library Hall 109 lifestyle 281-3 Lindt Building 122 literature 22, 270, 289-90 Lobkowicz Palace 72, 5 Lord Mayor’s Hall 108 Loreta 77, 77 Lucerna Palace 124-5
M
Main Fortress (Terezín) 188 Maisel Synagogue 99 Malá Strana 63, 81-94, 328-9 accommodation 193-4 drinking & nightlife 82, 93-4 food 82, 91-3 highlights 81 shopping 94
transport 82 walks 92, 92 Malá Strana Bridge Tower 84 Malostranské náměstí 87 Maltese Square 89 Mánes Gallery 127 Mariánské Lázně 233-8, 232 Marionette Museum (Český Krumlov) 211 markets 121, 136 Cabbage Market (Brno) 242 Christmas market 26 Easter market 24, 103 farmers markets 134, 144, 168 Havelská Market 119 Pražská Tržnice 161 Masaryk, Tomáš Garrigue 148 May Day 30 measures 305 media 305 medical services 304 Meet Factory 175 Melantrich Building 122 Mělník 186-7 Mělník Chateau 187 Memorial to the Victims of Communism 90, 122 Mendel Museum (Brno) 244 microbreweries 42, 293-4 Mikulov 253-6, 254 Mikulov Chateau 254 Mikulov Wine Trail 255 Miniature Museum 76 Mintmaster’s Cellar (Brno) 243 Mirror Maze 90 mobile phones 14, 306-7 money 14, 17, 190, 302, 304-5 Moravia 239-68, 240 Moravian Karst 247 Moravian Museum (Brno) 243 Moser Glass Museum (Karlovy Vary) 227 motorcycle travel 297, 298-9 Municipal House 108, 3, 54 Municipal Museum (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Musaion 90 Museum Fotoateliér Seidel (Český Krumlov) 210 Museum Montanelli 86 Museum of Communism 125 Museum of Decorative Arts 102, 102
Museum of Modern Art (Olomouc) 264 Museum of Romany Culture (Brno) 244 Museum of South Bohemia (České Budějovice) 205 Museum of the Infant Jesus 89 museums 28, 31, 65 music 9, 23, 43-4, 46, 47, 49, 284-6
N
Na Příkopě 125 Náměstí Přemysla Otakara II (České Budějovice) 203 Náměstí Zachariáše z Hradce (Telč) 250 Náprstek Museum 111 Národní Třída 125-6 National Gallery (Convent of St Agnes) 106 National Gallery (Kinský Palace) 103 National Gallery (Salm Palace) 78 National Gallery (Schwarzenberg Palace) 78, 27 National Gallery (Šternberg Palace) 78 National Gallery (Veletržní Palác) 156, 12, 55 National Memorial to the Heroes Of the Heydrich Terror 128 National Monument 147-8, 147 National Museum 123 National Salon of Czech Republic Wines (Valtice) 258 National Technical Museum 157 National Theatre 126, 17 Nerudova 86 New Jewish Cemetery 149 New Town Hall 128 newspapers 305 nightlife 39-42, see also individual neighbourhoods, Drinking & Nightlife subindex Nová Scéna 126 Novák Arcade 125 Nové Město 63, 120-34, 338-9 accommodation 195-6 drinking & nightlife 121, 131-3 entertainment 133-4
food 121, 129-31 highlights 120 shopping 134 transport 121 walks 130, 130 Novotného lávka 107 Nový Svět Quarter 78
O
Old Jewish Cemetery 98-9 Old Royal Palace 69 Old Town Bridge Tower 83 Old Town Hall 100-1 Old Town Hall (Brno) 242, 244 Old Town Square 9, 103, 8 Old-New Synagogue 97 Olomouc 261-7, 262-3 Olšany Cemetery 149, 150 opening hours 40, 48, 305-6 Ossuary (Brno) 244
P
painting 286 Palace Gardens Beneath Prague Castle 87 Palach, Jan 149 Pařížská 105-6 parks & gardens 23, 27, 29, 29 Patton Memorial Pilsen (Plzeň) 223 Petřín 90 Petřín Funicular Railway 90 pharmacies 304 phonecards 307 photography 287 Pilsner Urquell Brewery (Plzeň) 222 Pinkas Synagogue 98 planning 14-34 budgeting 31, 191, 302, 304-5 calendar of events 24-6 children, travel with 27-8 food 36 itineraries 20-1 Prague’s basics 14-15 Prague’s neighbourhoods 62-3 repeat visitors 13 travel seasons 24-6 Plzeň 13, 220-6, 221 police 303 politics 270-1, 280 population 271, 281 postal services 306 Powder Bridge 67 Powder Gate 107-8
I N D E X K- P
Karlín Studios 149 Karlovy Vary 226-33, 228-9 Karlovy Vary Museum 227 Karlštejn 181-2 Karlštejn Castle 59, 181-2, 181 Karlštejn Treasure 102 Kavárna Slavia 126 KGB Museum 89 Kinský Garden 90 Kinský Palace 103 Klaus Synagogue 99, 11 Klementinum 108-9, 10 Konopištĕ Chateau 183 Koruna Palace 122 Kotnov Castle (Tábor) 219 Křižík’s Fountain 164 Kroměříž 267-8 Kroměříž Museum 268 Kundera, Milan 289 Kutná Hora 184-6, 185
320
I N D E X P -W
Powder Tower 71 Prague Castle 7, 66-72, 68, 7, 66, 69 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 67 Prague City Museum 124 Prague Jewish Museum 11, 97-9, 11, 97 Prague Main Train Station 124 Prague Planetarium 164 Prague Spring 45, 278-9 Prague Zoo 158 Princely Collections 72 Proudy 88 public holidays 306 public transport 299-300 Puppet Museum (Plzeň) 223
Q
Quo Vadis 90
R
radio 305 Rear (New) Synagogue (Třebíč) 252 refunds 306 Regent Brewery (Třeboň) 215 Regional History Museum (Olomouc) 264 Regional Museum (Český Krumlov) 211 religion 271, 281-2 Riding School 67 Riegrovy sady 137 Roma people 282 Rosenberg Palace 72 Rotunda of Our Lady & St Catherine (Znojmo) 260 Rotunda of St Martin 173 Royal Garden 67 Royal Way 107 Rudolfinum 106, 8
S
safety 16 Salm Palace 78 Santa Casa 77 Schwarzenberg Mausoleum (Třeboň) 214 Schwarzenberg Palace 78 sculpture 287
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Sedlec Ossuary (Kutná Hora) 184, 58 shopping 47-9, 312, see also individual neighbourhoods, Shopping subindex Sigismund Bell 74 Singing Fountain (Mariánské Lázně) 234 slivovice 41 Smetana Hall 108 Smetana Museum 109 Smíchov 63, 170-9, 342 accommodation 200 drinking & nightlife 171, 178-9 entertainment 179 food 171, 175-7 highlights 170 shopping 179 transport 171 Smiřický Palace 87 smoking 36, 191, 305 South Bohemian Motorcycle Museum (České Budějovice) 205 spa towns 234, 226-38 Spanish Synagogue 99 Špilberk Castle (Brno) 241 sport 30, 282-3, see also Sports & Activities subindex St Bartholomew Church (Plzeň) 223 St George Square 70-1 St John of Nepomuk House 86 St Michael’s Church (Olomouc) 264 St Moritz Cathedral (Olomouc) 263 St Nicholas Church 86, 52-3 St Procopius’ Basilica (Třebíč) 252 St Vitus Cathedral 9, 73, 9, 73 St Vitus Treasury 67 St Vladimír Church (Mariánské Lázně) 235 St Wenceslas Cathedral (Olomouc) 264 Stag Moat 67 Stalin, Josef 278 Staré Město 63, 95-119, 332-3 accommodation 194-5 drinking & nightlife 96, 114-16 entertainment 116-17 food 96, 111-14 highlights 95, 95
shopping 117-19 transport to/from 96 walking tour 112, 112 Staropramen Brewery 175 Šternberg Palace 78 Story of Prague Castle 70 Strahov Library 75 Strahov Monastery 75, 75 Strahov Picture Gallery 76 Stromovka 164, 165, 165, 29 Summer Palace 67 Synagogue (Český Krumlov) 210 Synagogue (Mikulov) 255
T
Tábor 216-20, 217 taxes 17, 48, 306 taxis 18, 301 Techmania Science Centre (Plzeň) 13, 222 Telč 248-51, 249 Telč Chateau 250 telephone services 14, 306-7 television 305 tennis 283 Terezín 188-9 theatre 44, 287-8 time 14, 307, 312-13 tipping 17, 36, 40, 305 toilets 307 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 147 tourist information 14, 307-8 tours 31, 32-3, see also walking tours Town Hall (Olomouc) 263 Town Hall Tower (Znojmo) 260 Toy Museum 72 train travel 297-8, 299-300 tram travel 33, 300 transport 15, 18-19, 296-301, 313, see also individual neighbourhoods travellers cheques 305 Třebíč 251-3 Třeboň 213-16, 214 Třeboň Chateau 214 trekking 230, 236 TV Tower 149, 56 Týn Courtyard 105
U
U Kalicha 129 Underground Passages (Tábor) 218
Underground Plzeň (Plzeň) 222
V
Václav Havel Library 105 Valtice Chateau (Valtice) 257 Valtice-Lednice 257-8 vegetarian travellers 38 Veletržní Palác 156, 12, 55, 156 Velvet Revolution 279 Vila Tugendhat (Brno) 244 Vinohrady 63, 135-44, 344-5 accommodation 197-8 drinking & nightlife 136, 141-3 entertainment 144 food 136, 137-41 highlights 135 shopping 144 transport 136 walks 138, 138 Viola Building 126 visas 14, 308 visual arts 22, 121, 284-8 VJ Rott Building 107 Vladislav Hall 69, 51 Vršovice 13, 63, 135-44, 344-5 accommodation 197-8 drinking & nightlife 136, 141-3 entertainment 144 food 136, 137-41 highlights 135 shopping 144 transport 136 walks 138, 138 Vrtbov Garden 89 Vyšehrad 63, 170-9, 341 accommodation 200 drinking & nightlife 171, 178-9 entertainment 179 food 171, 175-7 highlights 170, 170 shopping 179 transport to/from 171 walking tour 176, 176 Vyšehrad Cemetery 172, 172 Vyšehrad Citadel 173-4 Výstaviště 164, 165, 165
W
walking tours 32, see also individual neighbourhoods
321
Z
Zeman, Karel 13, 87 Zeman, Miloš 271 Žižka, Jan 148, 220 Žižkov 63, 145-53, 346-7 accommodation 198 drinking & nightlife 146, 151-3 entertainment 146, 153 food 146, 149-51 highlights 145 transport 146 walks 150, 150 Žižkov Hill 148 Žižkovo Náměstí (Tábor) 217 Znojmo 259-61 Znojmo Castle 259 Znojmo Underground 259 Zoo Mořský Svět 164 Zoo Plzeň 223 zoos 27, 158, 223
5 EATING A Aberdeen Angus Steakhouse (Plzeň) 224 Al Forno 131 Albero (Valtice-Lednice) 258 Ambiente Pizza Nuova 113 Annapurna (Brno) 245 Argument 167 Aromi 141 Arrosto 177
B Bakeshop Praha 113 Bar Bar 91 Bejzment 175 Bisos 151 Bohemia Bagel 157 Brown Bag Burger 166 Budvarká 167
C Café de Paris 91 Café FX 139 Café Lounge 91 Café Pavlač 149 Café Savoy 91 Cafe Sladkovský 137 Černý Orel (Kroměříž) 268 Česká Hospůdka (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Chagall’s 114 Charleston (Karlovy Vary) 227 Cikánská Jizba (Český Krumlov) 211 City Cafe (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Coqpit (Třebíč) 253 Country Life 113 Cukrkávalimonáda 91
D Da Emanuel 167 Deli 99 (Český Krumlov) 211 Dish 137 Drápal (Olomouc) 265 Dvořák (Tábor) 219
E Elegantes 93 Embassy Restaurant (Karlovy Vary) 230 Essence 151
F Fish & Chips 113 Fish & Steak (Třeboň) 215 Food Love 177
G Galerie/Café Ve Věží (Mělník) 187 Gateway of India (České Budějovice) 205 George Prime Steak 114 Globe Bookstore & Café 129 Goldie (Tábor) 219 Grand Moravia (ValticeLednice) 258 Green Bar (Kroměříž) 268 Green Bar (Olomouc) 265 Groll Pivovar (Plzeň) 225
H Ha Noi 139 Hanil 151 Hergetova Cihelna 93 Hospoda Na Louži (Český Krumlov) 211
Hospoda U Švejka (Karlovy Vary) 227 Hospůdka Pod Zámkem (Mikulov) 256 Hospůdka U Divadla (České Budějovice) 205 Host 78
I Ichnusa Botega Bistro 91 Indian by Nature 151 Indian Jewel 113
K Kafka Snob Food 111 Kalina 113 Kavárna Mokate (Kutná Hora) 186 Kavárna Vrátka (Třebíč) 253 Klub cestovatelů 129 Kofein 140 Kogo 131 Koishi (Brno) 245 Kolkovna 113 Korbel 157 Krčma v Šatlavské (Český Krumlov) 211 Kulat’ák 167 Kuře V Hodinkách 151 Kus Kus (Karlovy Vary) 227
L La Casa Navarra (Znojmo) 260 La Gare/Le Winstub 131 Las Adelitas 139 Le Patio 131 Lehká Hlava 113 Letenský zámeček 158 Life is a Dream (České Budějovice) 205 Lobkowicz Palace Café 80 Lokál 111 Lokál Nad Stromovkou 166 Loving Hut 139
M Madame Lyn 139 Maitrea 111 Malý Buddha 78 Masné Kramý (České Budějovice) 205 Medité (Mariánské Lázně) 235 Memorial Café (Terezín) 189 Michalský Výpad (Olomouc) 265 Mistral Café 111 Molo 22 158
Moritz (Olomouc) 265 Mozaika 140
N Na Parkánu (Plzeň) 223 Na Spilce (Plzeň) 223 Na Urale 166 Na Věčnosti (Znojmo) 260 Na Verandách 177 Nahoře a Dole 167 Nepal (Olomouc) 265 Noi 91-3 Nonna Gina (Český Krumlov) 211
O Originál 1869 140 Osteria Da Clara 140
P Pastička 141 Pavillon (Brno) 245 Peperoncino 158 Pho Viet 129 Pho Vietnam 139 Pivnice Dačický (Kutná Hora) 186 Pivo a Párek 140 Pivovar Marina 158 Pizzeria Corleone 177 Pizzeria Grosseto 140 Pizzerie (Telč) 250 Plevel 137 Promenáda (Karlovy Vary) 230
R Radniční Sklípek (Kroměříž) 268 Rebio (Brno) 245 Restaurace Akropolis 151 Restaurace Alfa (Mikulov) 256 Restaurace Chudoba 141 Restaurace Pod Dračí Skálou (Karlštejn) 182 Restaurace Templ (Mikulov) 256 Restaurace U Bulínů 140 Restaurace U Veverky 164 Restaurant Goethe (Frantiskovy Lazne) 234 Restaurant Švejk Na Zámecké (Telč) 250 Rio’s Vyšehrad 177 Room 131 Rožmberská Bašta (Třeboň) 215
I N D E X E AT I N G
Wallenstein Garden 88 Wallenstein Palace 88 weather 15, 24-6 websites 14, 283 accommodation 15, 190 food blogs 37 weights 305 Wenceslas Square 122 Wiehl House 122 wine 40-1, 139 women travellers 308 WWI 276 WWII 277-8
322
INDEX D RIN K IN G & NI G H T LIF E
S
Y
G
Sakura 167 Sansho 131 Sasazu 157 Siam Orchid 131 Slunečnice (Plzeň) 224 Sojka (Mikulov) 255 Špaliček (Brno) 245 Spolek (Brno) 245 Stará Myslivna (Konopiste) 183 Šupina & Šupinka (Třeboň) 215 Svatováclavský Pivovar (Olomouc) 265
YamYam 166
Galerie Azyl (Plzeň) 225 Galerie Kavárna Róza K 143 Grand Cafe Orient 116
T Tandoor (Karlovy Vary) 227 Tandoor (Tábor) 219 Tavern, the 137 Terasa U Zlaté Studně 93
U U Anděla (Olomouc) 265 U Bilé Krávy 140 U Bílého lva 177 U Císaře (Mělník) 187 U Dědka 137 U Dwau Maryí (Český Krumlov) 211 U Malé Velryby 91 U Mansfelda (Plzeň) 224 U Marušky (Telč) 250 U Míkuláše Dačíckého 177 U Modré Kachničky 93 U Sňeka Pohodáře (Kutná Hora) 186 U Tři Sedláku (České Budějovice) 205 U Viléma 167 U Zlaté Hrušky 80 U Zlaté Koule (Mariánské Lázně) 235 U Zlatého lva (Tábor) 219
V V Zátiší 114 Veselá 13 (Znojmo) 261 Vila Primavesi (Olomouc) 265 Villa Richter 80 Vino di Vino 113 Vinohradský Parlament 137 Vozovna Stromovka 167
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Z Zlatý Klas 177 Zelená Zahrada 141 & 6 DRINKING NIGHTLIFE
A Al Cafetero 142 Alchymista 168 Avia (Brno) 246
B Back Doors 178 Bajkazyl 152 Bar & Books Mánesova 142 Barracuda (Karlovy Vary) 230 Black Stuff, the (Olomouc) 266 Blatouch 142 Blue Light 94 Bokovka 132 Bukowski’s 152
C Cafe 87 (Olomouc) 266 Café Celebrity 143 Café Dolce Vita (Mikulov) 256 Café Imperial 132 Café Kaaba 142 Cafe Plaza (České Budějovice) 206 Cafe Podnebi (Brno) 245 Café Schiele (Český Krumlov) 211 Cafe V Lese 142 Čili Bar 115 Coffee Source 142
D Dobrá Trafika 143 Dobrý Ročník (Mikulov) 256 Dog’s Bollocks 179 Duende 115
E Erhartova Cukrárna 160
F Fatal Music Club 152 Fraktal 168 Friends 115 Friends Coffee House 132
H Hells Bells 160, 179 Hemingway Bar 114 Hlubina 178 Hoffa 132 Hospoda Parukářka 153 Hospoda U Buldoka 178 Hospůdka Obyčejný Svět 142 Hostinec U Kocoura 94
I Irish Pub (Mariánské Lázně) 235
J Jáma 132 James Joyce 115
K Kabinet 168 Kafíčko 94 Kavárna Alfa (Brno) 246 Kavárna Alibi 169 Kavarná Antoniana (Telč) 251 Kavárna Liberál 160 Kavárna Lucerna 132 Kavárna Obecní Dům 116 Kavárna Pod Lipami 168 Kavárna Šlágr 141 Kavárna Zanzibar 143 Kávovarna 132 Klášterní Pivnice 160 Klášterní Pivovar Strahov 80 Klub Újezd 93 Kozička 115 Krásný ztráty 114 Kumbal 160
L La Bodega Flamenca 168 Le Caveau 141 Letná Beer Garden 158 Literární Kavárna Řetězová 115 Lokal Blok 178
M Malostranská beseda 93 Mama Coffee 142 Měšťanská Beseda (Plzeň) 225 Minach (Brno) 246
Mlýnská Kavárna 93 Moccacafe (Tábor) 219 Monarch Vinný Sklep 115 MP7 (Tábor) 219 Můj šálek kávy 152
N Na Slamníku 168 New York Barcaffe (Mariánské Lázně) 235
O Olala Cafe (Plzeň) 225 Ouky Douky 160
P Park Cafe & Bar 160 Phenomen 178 Pitomá Kavárna 178 Pivnice Pegas (Brno) 246 Pivnice U Černého Vola 80 Pivovar U Bulovky 152 Pivovarská Starobrno (Brno) 246 Pivovarský Dům 131 Pivovarský Klub 152 Potrvá 168 Prague Beer Museum (Staré Město) 114 Prague Beer Museum (Vinohrady) 142
R Red Room 132 Retro Cafe Bar (Karlovy Vary) 230 Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden 141
S Side Door 169 Singer Pub (České Budějovice) 205 Sokolovna 142 Staré Časy (České Budějovice) 205
T Té & Café Kratochvíle (Olomouc) 266
U U Fleků 133 U Malého Glena 94 U Medvídků 115 U Richarda (Brno) 246 U Slovanské Lípy 152 U Tří růží 114 U Vystřeleného oka 152 U Zavěšenýho Kafe 80
32 3 U Zeleného Čaje 94 U Zlatého Tygra 115
V
Z Zapa Cocktail Bar (Český Krumlov) 211 Zbrojnice (Třeboň) 215 Žlutá Pumpa 143
3ENTERTAINMENT A AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 116 Alfred Ve Dvoře 161
B Bio Oko 161 Blues Sklep 116 Brno Philharmonic Orchestra (Brno) 248 Buena Vista Club (Plzeň) 226
C Cinema City (Brno) 248 Conservatory (České Budějovice) 207 Cross Club 160
D Divadelní Klub Ántré (Český Krumlov) 213 Dvořák Hall 116
E Estates Theatre 116
F Fléda (Brno) 248
H Hospoda u Musea (Olomouc) 267
I Image Theatre 117 Infinity 144
J Janáček Theatre (Brno) 248
K Karlovy Vary Symphony Orchestra 231 Kino Aero 153 Kino Art (Brno) 248 Kino Drahomíra (Karlovy Vary) 231 Kino Metropol (Olomouc) 267 Kino Slavia (Mariánské Lázně) 237 Kino Svět (Tábor) 220 Kino Světozor 133 Kino Světozor (Třeboň) 216 Klub Desert (Brno) 248
L La Fabrika 161 Laterna Magika 134 Le Clan 144 Lucerna Music Bar 133
M Mecca 161 Městské Divadlo (Český Krumlov) 213 Městské Divadlo (Mariánské Lázně) 237 Mighty Bar Velbloud (České Budějovice) 208 Minor Theatre 134 Modrý Dveře Jazz & Blues (České Budějovice) 208 Moravian Philharmonic Olomouc 267 Moravské Divadlo (Olomouc) 267 Music Bar Anděl (Plzeň) 226
N National Marionette Theatre 117 National Theatre 133
O Original Music Theatre of Prague 133 Oskar Nedbal Theatre (Tábor) 220
P Palác Akropolis 153 Prague State Opera 133
R Radost FX 144 Reduta Jazz Club 133 Reduta Theatre (Brno) 248 Rock Café 133 Roxy 116
S Sasazu 160 Smetana Hall 117 South Bohemian Theatre (České Budějovice) 207 Spejbl & Hurvínek Theatre 169 Stará Pekárna (Brno) 248 Švandovo Divadlo Na Smíchově 179
T Ta Fantastika 117 Techtle Mechtle 144 Termix 144 Theatre on the Balustrade 117 Tipsport Aréna 161 Town Theatre (Karlovy Vary) 231
V Vagon 116
Z Zach’s Pub (Plzeň) 225
7 SHOPPING AntiKarlovy Varyita 169 Antique Music Instruments 80 Art Deco Galerie 117 Art Décoratif 118 Artěl 94 Bat’a 134 Bazar 134 Belda Jewellery 134 Bohème 118 Bric A Brac 119 Denim Heads 118 Dům Porcelánu 144 Dušní 3 117 Frey Wille 119 Globe Bookstore & Café 134 Granát Turnov 119 Havelská Market 119 Jan Pazdera 134 Jiřího z Poděbrad Farmers Market 144 Karel Vávra 144 Klara Nademlýnská 118 Kubista 118
Le Patio Lifestyle 118 Leeda 117 Manufaktura 118 Marionety Truhlář 94 Maximum Underground 119 Modernista 117 Moser 134 Náplavka Farmers Market 134 Nový Smíchov 179 Obchod s Uměním 144 Palác Knih Neo Luxor 134 Pavla & Olga 94 Pivní Galerie 161 Pražská Tržnice 161 Shakespeare & Sons 94 Starožitnosti Robert Pavlů 169 St.Vol 118 Talacko 119 TEG 118 Tribo 179 Vetešnictvi 94 Vinohradský Pavilon 144 Wine Food Market 169, 179 & 2 SPORTS ACTIVITIES
Castle Spa (Karlovy Vary) 232 Danubius Health Spa Resort Nové Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 238 Expedicion (Český Krumlov) 213 Generali Aréna 169 Maleček (Český Krumlov) 213 Public Pool (Mariánské Lázně) 238 Royal Golf Club of Mariánské Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 238 Sebastian Tours (Český Krumlov) 213 Šlechtovka 169 Slupenec Stables (Český Krumlov) 213 Swimming Pool (Karlovy Vary) 233
4 SLEEPING A Absolutum Hotel 199 Ahoy! Hostel 194 Ametyst 198 Anděl’s Hotel Prague 200 Apartmány Šupina (Třeboň) 215
I N D E X E N T E R TA I N M E N T
V Cafe 179 Vertigo (Olomouc) 266 Vinárna Solnice (České Budějovice) 205 Vinařské Centrum (Mikulov) 256 Viniční Altán 141 Vinograf 132 Vinotéka V Zámecké Bráně (Valtice-Lednice) 258
Jazz Club U Staré Paní 116 Jazz Dock 179 Jazz Republic 133 Jazz Tibet Club (Olomouc) 266 JK Tyla Theatre (Plzeň) 226
324 Arkada 197 Art Hotel 199 ArtHarmony 196 Autocamp Trojská 199
B INDEX SLEEPIN G
Barceló Brno Palace (Brno) 248 Bílý Koníček (Třeboň) 215
C Carlsbad Plaza (Karlovy Vary) 231 Castle Apartments (Český Krumlov) 212 Cyklopenzion Café Kulíšek (Znojmo) 261 Czech Inn 197
D Design Hotel Jewel 195 Design Hotel Sax 194 Domus Henrici 193 Dům u velké boty 193
E Embassy Hotel (Karlovy Vary) 231
F Fusion Hotel 195
G Golden Well Hotel 194 Grand Hotel (Třebíč) 253 Grandhotel Pupp (Karlovy Vary) 231
H Holiday Home 197 Hospoda Na Louži (Český Krumlov) 212 Hostel Fléda (Brno) 247 Hostel Lípa 198 Hostel Milano (Mariánské Lázně) 236 Hostel Mitte (Brno) 246 Hostel Postel (Český Krumlov) 212 Hostel Skippy (Český Krumlov) 212 Hotel 16 U Sv Kateřiny 196 Hotel Alwyn 198 Hotel Anna 197 Hotel Arbes-Mepro 200
Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000
Hotel Aria 194 Hotel Bohemia (České Budějovice) 206 Hotel Boston (Karlovy Vary) 231 Hotel Budweis (České Budějovice) 206 Hotel Celerin (Telč) 251 Hotel Černý Orel (Kroměříž) 268 Hotel Císař Ferdinand (Loket) 224 Hotel Denisa 199 Hotel Dvořak (České Budějovice) 206 Hotel Dvořák (Tábor) 220 Hotel Europa (Brno) 247 Hotel Extol Inn 199 Hotel Grand Spa Marienbad (Mariánské Lázně) 237 Hotel Hubertus (ValticeLednice) 258 Hotel Josef 195 Hotel Julian 200 Hotel Klika (České Budějovice) 206 Hotel Konvice (Český Krumlov) 212 Hotel La Fresca (Kroměříž) 268 Hotel Lahofer (Znojmo) 261 Hotel Leon 199 Hotel Luník 197 Hotel Maltézsý Kříž (Karlovy Vary) 231 Hotel Malý Pivovar (České Budějovice) 206 Hotel Mario (ValticeLednice) 258 Hotel Monastery 193 Hotel Nautilus (Tábor) 220 Hotel Nové Lázně (Mariánské Lázně) 237 Hotel Octárna (Kroměříž) 268 Hotel Omega (Brno) 247 Hotel Paris (Mariánské Lázně) 236 Hotel & Pivnice Pegas (Brno) 247 Hotel Pod Špilberkem (Brno) 248 Hotel Richard (Mariánské Lázně) 236 Hotel Romance Puškin (Karlovy Vary) 231
Hotel Romania (Karlovy Vary) 230 Hotel Roudna (Plzeň) 225 Hotel Rous (Plzeň) 225 Hotel Suite Home 196 Hotel U Kata (Kutná Hora) 186 Hotel U Zvonu (Plzeň) 225 Hotel Union 200 Hotel Villa Schwaiger 200 Hotel Zlatá Hvězda (Třeboň) 216 Hotel Zlatá Stoupa (Kutná Hora) 186 Hunger Wall Residence 193
I Ibis Praha Malá Strana 200 Icon Hotel 196
K Krumlov House (Český Krumlov) 212
L Le Palais Hotel 198 Little Quarter Hostel 193 Little Town Budget Hotel 193 Lokál Inn 193 Louren Hotel 197
M Miss Sophie’s 195 Moods Hotel 196 Mosaic House 196
O Old Prague Hostel 194 Orion 198
P Pension Angelus (Olomouc) 266 Pension Barbakán (Český Krumlov) 212 Pension City (Plzeň) 225 Pension Danny (Český Krumlov) 212 Pension Edinburgh (Mariánské Lázně) 236 Pension Klaret (ValticeLednice) 258 Pension Křivá (Olomouc) 266 Pension Moravia (Olomouc) 266
Pension Steidler (Telč) 251 Pentahotel Prague 198 Penzin Kamenné Slunce (Telč) 251 Penzión Barbora (Kutná Hora) 186 Penzión Centrum (České Budějovice) 206 Penzión Excellent (Kroměříž) 268 Penzion Mánes 197 Penzion Modrá Růže (Třeboň) 215 Penzión Na Hradě (Olomouc) 266 Penzion Na Starém Brně (Brno) 246 Penzión Petra (Telč) 251 Penzión u Synagogy (Třebíč) 253 Perla Hotel 195 Plaza Alta Hotel 199 Plus Prague Hostel 199 Poet’s Corner (Olomouc) 266
R Red & Blue Design Hotel 200 Residence Karolina 194 Residence u černé věž (České Budějovice) 206 Rezidence Zvon (Znojmo) 261 Romantik Hotel U Raka 193
S Savic Hotel 195 Sir Toby’s Hostel 198 Staroměstský Penzion (Tábor) 220
U U Malého Vítka (Český Krumlov) 212 U Salzmannů (Plzeň) 225 U Zeleného Věnce 194-5 Ubytovna Marie (Olomouc) 266 Ubytovna U Nádraží (České Budějovice) 206
V Villa-Art (Mariánské Lázně) 236
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
