Indonesia
Ryan Ver Berkmoes Celeste Brash, Muhammad Cohen, Mark Elliott, Trent Holden, Guyan Mitra, John Noble, Adam Skolnick, Iain Stewart, Steve Waters
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THAILAND LAOS MYANMAR (BURMA)
95ºE
BANGKOK
CAMBODIA
ANDAMAN SEA
SOUTH CHINA SEA
VIETNAM
PHNOM PENH 100ºE
HO CHI MINH CITY (Saigon)
PULAU WEH (p409) Undisturbed beaches, visiting whale sharks and sublime diving
110ºE
Gulf of Thailand
115ºE
LOKSADO (p630) Hiking, bamboo rafting and losing yourself in the enigmatic Pegunungan Meratus
Banda Aceh
PENINSULAR MALAYSIA Bukit Lawang
Selat Malaka Medan
Kota Kinabalu
Danau Toba
Pulau Simeulue
SABAH BANDAR SERI BEGAWAN
BRUNEI
KUALA LUMPUR
SARAWAK
EAST MALAYSIA
Pulau Nias
Pekanbaru
Padang
SINGAPORE
Kuching
Riau Islands
SUMATRA
KALIMANTAN
Sintang
Pontianak
Samarinda Pulau Siberut
Pulau Bangka
Jambi
Balikpapan
Pangkal Pinang
Palangkaraya
Mentawai Islands
Pangkalanbun Loksado
Palembang Bengkulu DANAU TOBA (p388) Gracious Batak hospitality and Southeast Asia's largest volcanic lake
Pulau Enggano
Pulau Belitung
Tanjung Puting National Park
Serang
JAKARTA
Bogor
TANJUNG PUTING NATIONAL PARK (p614) River adventures, jungle treks and endearing rust red orangutans
JAVA SEA
Bandar Lampung
Bandung Borobudur Cilacap
JAVA Semarang Solo Yogyakarta
BOROBUDUR (p171) Swaying palms, luminescent green rice fields and Indonesia's most breathtaking monument to Buddha
Selat Makassar
Banjarmasin
Pulau Madura
Surabaya Malang
BALI Denpasar
Pulau Lombok
Mataram Pulau Sumbawa
Christmas Island (Aust)
GUNUNG BROMO (p245) Bubbling volcano resting in the desolate wastes of the Sea of Sands BALI (p258) Heady fun, night-time pleasure, palaces, temples, shopping and Indonesia's tourist heart
INDIAN OCEAN
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ELEVATION
LEGEND Primary Road Secondary Road
4000m 15ºN
2000m
MANILA
1000m 500m
0 0
0
500 km 300 miles
PHILIPPINES
140ºE
120ºE
135ºE
130ºE 10ºN
PACIFIC SULU SEA
OCEAN PALAU
BUNAKEN MANADO TUA MARINE NATIONAL PARK (p710) Underwater odysseys, staggering marine life and dazzling reefs PULAU TERNATE (p729) & PULAU TIDORE (p735) Volcanic vistas overlooking ancient sultanates TANA TORAJA (p672) Elaborate funeral rites and a mystical mountain kingdom
SULAWESI SEA
RAJA AMPAT ISLANDS (p782) Dive translucent waters teeming with an unrivalled variety of marine life
Pulau Halmahera
Kota Ternate
Makale
0º
MALUKU SEA Bacan Islands
Manokwari
Sorong
Pulau Biak Kota Biak
Sarmi
S E R A M Pulau S E A Seram
Sula Islands
Rantepao
BALIEM VALLEY (p801) Trek Papua's stunning highlands and encounter diverse cultures
Manado
Gorontalo SULAWESI Palu
5ºN
Jayapura Fak-Fak
Kendari
Kota Ambon
Watampone
MALUKU
PAPUA
Banda Islands
Wamena
5ºS
Timika
Makassar
BANDA SEA
BANDA ISLANDS (p756) Sublime snorkelling and pristine coral gardens in history's fabled Spice Islands
FLORES SEA Pulau Wetar
NUSA TENGGARA Ende
Pulau Flores
SAWU SEA Pulau Sumba
Tanimbar Islands
DILI
Kupang
KELIMUTU (p548) Multihued crater lakes set atop an ancient volcano
Pulau Timor
Pulau Yos Sudarso
EAST TIMOR
10ºS
ARAFURA SEA
TIMOR SEA
Darwin
WEST TIMOR (p564) Remote villages with beehive clan houses and unique tribal culture
15ºS
AUSTRALIA
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PAPUA NEW GUINEA
Majene
Gulf of Carpentaria
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© Lonely Planet 13
Contents
On the Road
4
Indonesia Highlights 6
Destination Indonesia 18
Getting Started Itineraries History The Culture Environment Food & Drink Java History Culture Getting There & Away Getting Around JAKARTA History Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights Activities Jakarta for Children Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around Around Jakarta WEST JAVA Jakarta to Merak Merak
20
25
32
53
73
79
88
89
92
94
95
96
96
99
100
101
101
106
107
107
107
107
110
112
113
114
115
117
118
119
119
121
West Coast Beaches Labuan Tanjung Lesung Gunung Krakatau
121
123
123
123
Natural Indonesia 125
Ujung Kulon National Park Bogor Around Bogor Sukabumi & Selabintana Pelabuhan Ratu Puncak Pass Area Bandung North of Bandung South of Bandung Bandung to Pangandaran Pangandaran Around Pangandaran Cirebon Around Cirebon CENTRAL JAVA Cilacap Purwokerto Wonosobo Dieng Plateau Borobudur Yogyakarta Around Yogyakarta Prambanan Solo (Surakarta) Around Solo North Coast Pekalongan Semarang Ambarawa Bandungan Gedung Songo Temples Demak Kudus Around Kudus Jepara Around Jepara Karimunjawa EAST JAVA Surabaya Trowulan Pulau Madura Malang
133
134
139
139
139
141
143
150
152
153
155
160
162
165
165
167
167
167
169
171
176
191
194
198
204
207
207
209
213
214
214
214
215
217
217
218
218
220
220
228
229
233
14
CONTENTS
Around Malang Blitar Panataran Gunung Kelud Pacitan Around Pacitan Probolinggo Gunung Bromo & Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park Bondowoso Ijen Plateau Jember Watu Ulo & Papuma Kalibaru Meru Betiri National Park Alas Purwo National Park Banyuwangi Baluran National Park
Bali History Culture Getting There & Away Getting Around SOUTH BALI Kuta & Legian Seminyak North of Seminyak Sanur Benoa Harbour Bukit Peninsula DENPASAR Orientation Information Sights Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around NUSA LEMBONGAN & ISLANDS Nusa Lembongan Nusa Ceningan Nusa Penida UBUD Orientation Information Sights
238 242 243 244 244 244 244 245 249 250 252 252 252 253 254 255 256
258 259 261 266 267 269 269 279 284 285 289 289 295 296 296 296 296 297 297 297 297 300 300 301 304 304 306 306 306 307
Activities Courses Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating Drinking Entertainment Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around AROUND UBUD Bedulu Pejeng Tampaksiring North of Ubud South of Ubud EAST BALI Coast Road to Kusamba Gianyar Bangli Semarapura (Klungkung) Around Semarapura Sidemen Road Pura Besakih Rendang to Amlapura Road Gunung Agung Kusamba to Padangbai Padangbai Padangbai to Candidasa Tenganan Candidasa Candidasa to Amlapura Amlapura Tirta Gangga Amed & the Far East Coast Kubu Region Tulamben Tulamben to Yeh Sanih WEST BALI Tanah Lot Pura Taman Ayun Marga Tabanan South of Tabanan North of Tabanan Balian Beach & Lalang-Linggah Jembrana Coast Negara
312 313 313 314 314 318 320 320 320 321 321 322 322 323 323 324 324 325 325 325 326 327 328 328 329 329 330 331 331 334 334 335 336 337 338 339 341 341 342 342 342 343 343 343 343 344 344 345 346
Around Negara Gilimanuk Taman Nasional Bali Barat Labuhan Lalang CENTRAL MOUNTAINS Gunung Batur Danau Bratan Gunung Batukau Area NORTH BALI Yeh Sanih Singaraja Around Singaraja Lovina West of Lovina Pemuteran
Sumatra NORTH SUMATRA Medan Bukit Lawang Parapat Danau Toba Sibolga PULAU NIAS Gunung Sitoli Teluk Dalam Pantai Sorake & Teluk Lagundri Traditional Villages ACEH Banda Aceh Pulau Weh Aceh’s West Coast Pulau Banyak Gayo Highlands Gunung Leuser National Park WEST SUMATRA Padang Around Padang Mentawai Islands Bukittinggi Around Bukittinggi Danau Maninjau Kerinci Valley BENGKULU Bengkulu Northern Bengkulu Pulau Enggano RIAU
346 346 347 348 348 348 352 355 356 356 357 358 359 363 363
365 370 371 378 387 388 394 395 397 398 398 400 401 404 409 412 414 415 417 419 420 425 425 431 435 437 440 444 444 447 447 448
Pekanbaru 448 Around Pekanbaru 451 Dumai 451 Riau Islands 451 Pulau Batam 451 Pulau Bintan 455 Other Riau Islands 459 JAMBI 460 Jambi 460 Muara Jambi 462 SOUTH SUMATRA 463 Palembang 463 Danau Ranau 467 Krui 467 Pasemah Highlands 467 Pulau Bangka 468 LAMPUNG 469 Bandarlampung 470 Way Kambas National Park 472 Kalianda 473 Gunung Krakatau 474 Bakauheni 474 Bukit Barisan Selatan National Park 474
Nusa Tenggara
475
History Wildlife Climate Getting There & Around LOMBOK Mataram Around Mataram Lembar & the Southwestern Peninsula Senggigi Gili Islands North & Central Lombok Sapit Gunung Rinjani Tetebatu South of Tetebatu South Lombok East Lombok SUMBAWA West Sumbawa Sumbawa Besar Around Sumbawa Besar East Sumbawa Bima & Raba
476 476 476 477 478 483 486 487 488 492 504 506 506 510 511 511 515 516 517 519 521 523 525
Around Bima Sape KOMODO & RINCA ISLANDS Komodo Rinca FLORES Labuanbajo Ruteng Around Ruteng Bajawa Around Bajawa Boawae Riung Ende Kelimutu Moni Around Moni Maumere Around Maumere Larantuka Around Larantuka SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS Adonara Lembata Alor WEST TIMOR Kupang Around Kupang Soe Around Soe Kefamenanu Around Kefamenanu Atambua & Around ROTE SUMBA Waingapu Around Waingapu East Sumba South-Central Sumba Waikabubak West Sumba
Kalimantan History Culture Wildlife Getting There & Away Getting Around
527 527 528 529 532 532 534 538 540 541 543 544 545 545 548 549 551 552 554 556 557 557 558 558 561 564 567 570 571 572 573 574 574 575 577 581 583 583 584 584 586
590 591 592 593 593 593
CONTENTS
15
WEST KALIMANTAN Pontianak Sungai Kapuas Singkawang Around Singkawang Ketapang Gunung Palung National Park CENTRAL KALIMANTAN Pangkalan Bun Sungai Lamandau & Sungai Balantikan Kumai Tanjung Puting National Park Palangka Raya Sebangau National Park Sungai Kahayan Muara Teweh SOUTH KALIMANTAN Banjarmasin Around Banjarmasin Marabahan & Margasari Kandangan Negara Upau Loksado Around Loksado South Coast EAST KALIMANTAN Balikpapan Around Balikpapan Samarinda Kutai National Park Tenggarong Sungai Mahakam Upper Mahakam Sungai Kedang Kepala
595 595 602 606 607 608
Sungai Belayan Berau Pulau Derawan & Sangalaki Archipelago Sungai Kayan & Apokayan Highlands Krayan Hulu Sebuku Sembakung Tarakan
Sulawesi History Climate
610 611 611 613 614 614 618 621 621 623 623 623 629 629 629 630 630 630 631 632 632 632 636 637 641 641 642 644 646 647 647 648 650 650 651 651
654 656 656
16
CONTENTS
Getting There & Away Getting Around SOUTH SULAWESI Makassar Around Makassar Pantai Bira Pulau Lihukan & Pulau Betang Pulau Selayar Taka Bone Rate Watampone Sengkang Pare Pare Palopo TANA TORAJA Rantepao Makale Around Tana Toraja MAMASA VALLEY Mamasa Around Mamasa CENTRAL SULAWESI Pendolo Tentena Poso Around Poso Lore Lindu National Park Palu Donggala & Tanjung Karang Kolonedale Teluk Tomori Morowali Nature Reserve Luwuk Banggai Islands Tanjung Api National Park Ampana TOGEAN ISLANDS Pulau Batu Daka Pulau Kadidiri Pulau Una Una Pulau Togean Pulau Tomken & Pulau Bolilangga Pulau Malenge Pulau Walea Kodi NORTH SULAWESI Gorontalo Around Gorontalo Kotamobagu Bogani Nani Wartabone
656 657 657 659 666 667 670 670 670 670 671 672 672 672 673 679 679 683 684 684 686 686 687 689 690 690 691 693 694 694 694 695 695 695 695 696 698 699 700 700 700 700 700 701 702 703 704
National Park Manado Pulau Bunaken Tomohon Around Tomohon Danau Tondano Airmadidi Bitung Pulau Lembeh & the Lembeh Strait Tangkoko-Batuangas Dua Saudara Nature Reserve Sangir-Talaud Islands SOUTHEAST SULAWESI Kolaka Kendari Around Kendari Raha Around Raha Bau Bau Tukangbesi Islands
Maluku History Culture Getting There & Away Getting Around NORTH MALUKU Pulau Ternate Pulau Tidore South of Tidore Pulau Halmahera Pulau Morotai SULA & BURU Sula Islands Pulau Buru PULAU AMBON Kota Ambon Around Pulau Ambon LEASE & SERAM Lease Islands Pulau Seram BANDA ISLANDS Bandaneira Pulau Gunung Api Pulau Banda Besar Pulau Hatta Pulau Ai Pulau Run (Rhun) SOUTHERN MALUKU
704 704 710 714 714 715 715 715 715 716 717 717 718 719 720 721 721 722 722
724 725 727 727 727 728 729 735 736 737 740 741 741 742 742 742 749 751 751 754 756 757 761 761 762 762 763 763
Kei Islands Tanimbar Islands Southwestern Maluku Aru
Papua
763 769 771 771
772
History Climate Wildlife Culture Getting There & Away Getting Around WEST PAPUA Sorong Raja Ampat Islands Fak-Fak Around Fak-Fak Manokwari Pegunungan Arfak Cenderawasih Bay National Park THE NORTH Jayapura Sentani Around Jayapura & Sentani Pulau Biak Pulau Yapen THE BALIEM VALLEY Wamena Around Wamena Baliem Valley – South Baliem Valley – Northeast Baliem Valley – Northwest Danau Habbema Lani Country Yali Country & Beyond THE SOUTH Merauke Wasur National Park The Asmat Region Korowai & Kombai Regions
Directory Accommodation Activities Business Hours Children Climate Charts Courses Customs Regulations
774 775 776 777 777 778 780 780 782 785 785 786 788 789 789 789 792 794 796 800 801 802 806 807 810 811 811 811 812 813 813 814 815 816
817 817 819 823 823 826 826 827
© Lonely Planet C O N T E N T S 17
Dangers & Annoyances Discount Cards Embassies & Consulates Festivals & Events Food Gay & Lesbian Travellers Holidays Insurance Internet Access Legal Matters Maps Money Photography & Video Post Shopping Solo Travellers Telephone Time Toilets Tourist Information Travellers with Disabilities Visas Volunteering Women Travellers Work
827 829 829 830 832 832 832 833 833 833 834 834 835 835 836 837 837 838 838 839 839 839 840 841 841
842
Transport
GETTING THERE & AWAY Entering the Country Air Land Sea Tours GETTING AROUND Air Bicycle Boat Bus Car & Motorcycle Hitching Local Transport Minibus (Bemo) Tours Train
842 842 842 844 845 845 847 847 848 848 850 851 853 853 854 854 855
856
Health BEFORE YOU GO Insurance Vaccinations Internet Resources
856 856 856 858
Further Reading IN INDONESIA Availability of Health Care Infectious Diseases Traveller’s Diarrhoea Environmental Hazards Women’s Health Traditional Medicine
Language Glossary The Authors Behind the Scenes Index GreenDex Map Legend
858 858 858 858 861 862 864 864
865 871 875 878 888 907 908
Regional Map Contents
PACIFIC OCEAN
SOUTH CHINA SEA
Brunei Malaysia
SUMATRA pp366–7
KALIMANTAN p591 SULAWESI p655
MALUKU p725 PAPUA p773
Jakarta JAVA pp90–1
INDIAN OCEAN
BALI p260
NUSA TENGGARA pp476–7 East Timor
TIMOR
SEA
