©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Prague
& the Czech Republic “ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Neil Wilson Mark Baker
Contents Plan PlanYour YourTrip Trip
page
1
4
Welcome to Prague......... 4
Month by Month ............20
Eating ........................... 31
Prague’s Top 10 ............... 6
With Kids ........................ 23
Drinking & Nightlife ...36
What’s New .................... 13
Like a Local .................... 25
Entertainment............ 40
Need to Know .................14
For Free .......................... 27
Shopping..................... 43
Top Itineraries ................16
Prague by Bike...............28
Architecture ............... 46
If You Like... .................... 18
Prague Tours .................29
56
Explore Prague Neighbourhoods at a Glance ..........................58
Nové Město ...................116 Vinohrady & Vršovice . 132
Day Trips from Prague ........................ 174
Prague Castle & Hradčany........................60
Žižkov & Karlín ............. 142
Sleeping .....................185
Malá Strana.................... 77
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice ...................... 149
Best of Bohemia ....... 197
Staré Město ....................91
Smíchov & Vyšehrad .. 164
Understand Prague
267
Prague & the Czech Republic Today ............268
The Arts in Prague & the Czech Republic .....283
History ..........................270
Prague on Page & Screen .......................289
Czech Life.................... 280
Survival Guide
295
Transport .................... 296
Language .................... 308
Directory A–Z .............. 301
Index ............................. 316
Prague Maps
Best of Moravia ........ 236
325
A Nation of Beer Lovers ...........................292
CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES ©
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES ©
CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / GETTY IMAGES ©
(left) St Vitus Cathedral (p69) (above) Astronomical Clock (p98) (right) Beer – part of Prague’s culture (p36)
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice p149 Prague Castle & Hradčany p60 Malá Strana p77
Staré Město p91
Nové Město p116
Smíchov & Vyšehrad p164
Žižkov & Karlín p142
Vinohrady & Vršovice p132
Explore Prague & the Czech Republic Neighbourhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Prague Castle & Hradčany . . . . . . . . . . .60 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Malá Strana . . . . . . . . . 77 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90
Staré Město . . . . . . . . . 91 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 110 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 112 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Vinohrady & Vršovice . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Day Trips from Prague . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 137 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . .140 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140
Karlštejn Castle . . . . . . . . . 175 Konopištĕ Chateau . . . . . . 177 Kutná Hora . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Mělník . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Terezín . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Žižkov & Karlín . . . . . 142
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 147 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 148
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice . . . . . . . . . . 149 Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .151 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 158 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 161 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 163
Nové Město . . . . . . . . 116
Smíchov & Vyšehrad . . . . . . . . . . 164
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 128 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 129 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 171 Entertainment. . . . . . . . . . . 172 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Best of Bohemia . . . . 197 České Budějovice . . . . . . . . 198 Český Krumlov . . . . . . . . . 204 Třeboň . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Tábor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Plzeň . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Karlovy Vary . . . . . . . . . . . .222 Mariánské Lázně . . . . . . . .229
Best of Moravia. . . . .236 Brno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237 Telč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .245 Třebíč . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 Mikulov . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249 Valtice-Lednice . . . . . . . . .253 Znojmo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .255 Olomouc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 Kroměříž . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
56
57
PRAGUE’S TOP SIGHTS Prague Castle ....................62 St Vitus Cathedral.............69 Strahov Monastery ........... 71 Loreta .................................73 Charles Bridge...................79 Prague Jewish Museum ...93 Municipal House .............. 96 Old Town Hall .....................97 Astronomical Clock ......... 98 Museum of Decorative Arts ................ 99 Wenceslas Square ...........118 National Museum ............119 National Monument .......144 Veletržní Palác ..................151 Vyšehrad Cemetery .......166 Vyšehrad Citadel............. 167
32 5
Prague Maps
Map Legend Sports & Activities
Sights Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight
Eating Eating
Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe
Entertainment Entertainment
Shopping Shopping
Sleeping Sleeping Camping
Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Sports & Activities
Information Post Office Tourist Information
Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/ Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport
Routes
Geographic
Tollway
Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall
Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps
Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier
Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path
Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall
Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)
326
e # 00
2 km 1 miles
TROJA
Emperor's Island (Císařský ostrov)
" Ð 11
River Vltava
" Ð 10
1 1
LIBEÑ
Stromovka HOLEŠOVICE
DEJVICE
BUBENEČ
Letenské LETNÁ sady
HRADČANY " Ð 1 NOVÝ SVÊT " Ð 2
" Ð 9
" Ð 3
KARLÍN
JOSEFOV
MALÁ STRANA
PRAŽČKA
NOVÉ MĚSTO
STARÉ MĚSTO
ŽIŽKOV
" Ð 4
1
STRAHOV
1
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Jewish Olšany Cemetery 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 Cemetery (Židovské 1 1 1 1 2 2 (Olšanské hřbitovy) 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 hřbitovy) 1 1 1 1 2 2
NOVÉ MĚSTO
Vltava
1 1
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VRŠOVICE VRŠOVICE 1
VYŠEHRAD
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1 1
HLUBOČEPY
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1 1
SPOŘILOV
MAP INDEX
7 Smíchov (p342)
1 Malá Strana (p328)
8 Vinohrady & Vršovice (p344)
2 Hradčany (p330)
9 Žižkov & Karlín (p346)
3 Staré Mĕsto (p332)
10 Holešovice (p348)
4 North Nové Mĕsto (p336)
11 Bubeneč & Dejvice (p350)
5 South Nové Mĕsto (p338) 6 Vyšehrad (p341)
1
1
1 1
1
VINOHRADY
" Ð 8
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1 1
2
1
" Ð 5
1
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SMÍCHOV
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47 Malostranská beseda ............................................... E2 48 Mlýnská Kavárna....................................................... F5 49 U Malého Glena .........................................................E3 50 U Zeleného Čaje ........................................................D2
23 Petřín Lookout Tower...............................................B5 24 Proudy (David Černý Sculpture) ............................G3 25 Quo Vadis (David Černý Sculpture) .......................C3 26 Smiřický Palace......................................................... E2
45 Kafíčko........................................................................ F3 46 Klub Újezd .................................................................. E6
21 Petřín .........................................................................C5 22 Petřín Funicular Railway .......................................... E5
MALÁ STRANA
æ Sights (p82) 27 St John of Nepomuk House.....................................D2 1 Bell Tower .................................................................. E3 28 Vojan Gardens........................................................... F2 þ Shopping (p90) 2 Bretfeld Palace..........................................................C2 29 Vrtbov Garden ........................................................... E3 51 Pavla & Olga...............................................................C3 3 Children's Island ....................................................... G7 30 Wallenstein Garden .................................................. F2 52 Shakespeare & Sons ................................................ F3 4 Church of Our Lady of Unceasing 31 Wallenstein Palace.....................................................E1 53 Vetešnictvi ................................................................. E6 Succour................................................................... D2 32 Wallenstein Riding School ........................................F1 5 Czech Museum of Music.......................................... E4 Ø Sports & Activities (p30) 6 Franz Kafka Museum ...............................................G3 ú Eating (p87) 54 Prague on Segway ....................................................D3 7 House at the Three Fiddles ..................................... D2 33 Bangkok ..................................................................... E3 55 Prague Segway Tours .............................................. E3 8 House of the Golden Horseshoe.............................C2 34 Café de Paris.............................................................. E4 9 House of the Two Suns ............................................ C2 35 Café Lounge............................................................... E6 ÿ Sleeping (p188) 10 Kampa ........................................................................ F4 36 Café Savoy ................................................................. F6 56 Design Hotel Sax.......................................................C3 11 Kampa Museum.........................................................F5 37 Cukrkávalimonáda.................................................... E3 57 Dům u velké boty.......................................................C3 12 KGB Museum ............................................................C3 38 Hergetova Cihelna ....................................................G3 58 Golden Well Hotel.......................................................E1 13 Malá Strana Bridge Tower........................................F3 39 Lichfield...................................................................... F2 59 Hotel Aria.................................................................... E3 14 Malostranské náměstí.............................................. E2 40 Noi............................................................................... E5 60 Hotel Neruda..............................................................C2 15 Maltese Square ......................................................... E4 41 U Malé Velryby .......................................................... E4 Hunger Wall Residence .................................. (see 35) 16 Memorial to the Victims of Communism .............. E6 42 U Modré Kachničky................................................... E4 61 Lokál Inn ..................................................................... F3 17 Mirror Maze ............................................................... B5 62 Pension Dientzenhofer............................................. F4 18 Musaion......................................................................C8 û Drinking & Nightlife (p89) 19 Museum Montanelli.................................................. D2 43 Blue Light ................................................................... E3 20 Nerudova ................................................................... C2 44 Hostinec U Kocoura..................................................D2
æ Top Sights (p79) Charles Bridge...........................................................G3 John Lennon Wall.......................................................F3 Museum of the Infant Jesus of Prague.................. E4 St Nicholas Church................................................... E3
MALÁ STRANA Map on p328
32 7
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æ Top Sights (p62) Loreta ...........................................................B4 Prague Castle..............................................E3 St Vitus Cathedral.......................................E3 Strahov Monastery.....................................B5
Lobkovická zahrada C
Schönborská zahrada D
6 Eastern Gate ...............................................G2 7 Main Gate .................................................... E3 8 Miniature Museum ..................................... B5 9 Nový Svět Quarter...................................... B3 10 Old Royal Palace......................................... E3 11 Palace Gardens Beneath Prague
æ Sights (p74) 1 All Saints' Chapel........................................ F3 2 Ball-Game House........................................E2 3 Basilica of St George.................................. F3 4 Bílek Villa...................................................... H1 5 Church of the Assumption of Our Lady....................................................B5
Castle ........................................................G3 12 Plečnik Hall ................................................. D3 13 Powder Tower............................................. E3 14 Prague Castle Picture Gallery................... D3 15 Riding School.............................................. D2 16 Schwarzenberg Palace..............................D4 17 St Vitus Treasury ....................................... E3
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40 Rudolfinum ..............................................................B3
68 Kavárna Obecní dům ..............................................G4
65 Hemingway Bar....................................................... B7 66 James Joyce............................................................ E2
38 Pinkas Synagogue...................................................C3 39 Powder Gate ............................................................G5 41 Smetana Museum...................................................A6
64 Grand Cafe Orient....................................................F5
37 Pařížská ...................................................................D3
42 Spanish Synagogue ................................................D3
62 Duende .................................................................... A6 63 Friends ..................................................................... C7
36 Old-New Synagogue ...............................................C3
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35 Old Town Square.....................................................D4
34 Old Town Hall Tower...............................................D5 û Drinking & Nightlife
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59 V zátiší ..................................................................... B6 60 Vino di Vino.............................................................. F4
31 Novotného lávka .....................................................A6 32 Old Jewish Cemetery..............................................C3
57 Maitrea..................................................................... E4 58 Mistral Café ............................................................. B4
29 Museum of Czech Cubism ..................................... F5 30 Náprstek Museum .................................................. B7
55 Lehká Hlava ............................................................. B7 56 Lokál..........................................................................F2
27 Maisel Synagogue ...................................................C3 28 Marionette Museum ...............................................B5
53 Kabul ........................................................................ B8
25 Klementinum ...........................................................B5
54 Kolkovna .................................................................. D3
24 Klaus Synagogue.....................................................C3 26 Lego Museum..........................................................D8
51 Country Life.............................................................D6 52 Indian Jewel............................................................. E4
23 Kinský Palace ..........................................................D4
50 Beas Vegetarian Dhaba.......................................... E4
21 Jan Palach Square ..................................................B3 22 Jewish Town Hall.....................................................C3
48 Ambiente Pizza Nuova ........................................... G3 49 Bakeshop Praha...................................................... E3
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19 House at the Stone Bell .......................................... E4
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SMÍCHOV æ Sights (p169) Brownnosers (David Černý Sculpture)..........................................(see 1) 1 Futura Gallery..............................................A3
14 Káva Káva Káva .......................................... C3 15 Kavárna Jarda Mayer................................. C3 16 Lokal Blok .................................................... C3 17 Wash Café ................................................... D5
SMÍCHOV
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VRŠOVICE
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32 La Fabrika................................................................... F3 æ Top Sights (p151) û Drinking & Nightlife (p158) Veletržní Palác .......................................................... B3 15 Bio Oko .......................................................................B4 33 Mecca ......................................................................... E2 16 Bondy Bar .................................................................. E3 Sasazu ...............................................................(see 14) æ Sights (p152) 17 Club Club....................................................................A4 1 Dox Centre for Contemporary Art.......................... E2 18 Erhartova Cukrárna..................................................A4 þ Shopping (p162) 2 Křižík's Fountain ....................................................... B2 19 Fraktal.........................................................................A4 34 Hunt-Kastner Artworks............................................B4 3 Lapidárium................................................................. B2 20 Hells Bells...................................................................A4 35 Pivní Galerie ...............................................................E2 4 Mořský Svět............................................................... B2 21 Klášterní Pivnice........................................................A4 36 Pražská Tržnice.........................................................E4 5 National Technical Museum.................................... A4 22 Kumbal .......................................................................C4 6 Prague Planetarium.................................................. A2 23 Letná Beer Garden.................................................... A5 Ø Sports & Activities (p163) 24 Long Tale Café........................................................... E3 37 Tipsport Aréna...........................................................B2 ú Eating (p154) 25 Na Staré Kovárně......................................................A4 7 Bohemia Bagel.......................................................... B3 26 Nová Syntéza ............................................................B3 ÿ Sleeping (p193) 8 Capua ......................................................................... B4 27 Ouky Douky................................................................C4 38 A&O Hostel ................................................................C2 9 Korbel ..........................................................................F3 28 Svijanský Rytíř...........................................................A4 39 Absolutum Hotel .......................................................D2 10 La Crêperie ................................................................C4 29 U Sv Antoníćka ..........................................................C4 40 Hotel Belvedere.........................................................B4 11 Lucky Luciano ........................................................... E3 41 Hotel Extol Inn ...........................................................E3 12 Molo 22....................................................................... E2 ý Entertainment (p161) 42 Hotel Leon.................................................................. E2 13 Peperoncino .............................................................. A4 30 Alfred Ve Dvoře .........................................................B3 43 Plaza Alta Hotel ..........................................................F1 14 Sasazu........................................................................ E4 Bio Oko ..............................................................(see 15) 44 Plus Prague Hostel.....................................................F1 31 Cross Club.................................................................. D1 45 Sir Toby's Hostel ....................................................... E3
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351
Our Story
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Neil Wilson Co-ordinating Author, Prague Castle & Hradčany, Malá Strana, Staré Město, Nové Město, Žižkov & Karlín Neil first succumbed to the pleasures of Prague back in 1995, beguiled, like everyone else, by its ethereal beauty, but also drawn to the darker side of its hidden history. He has returned regularly to enjoy the world’s finest beers, the city’s quirky sense of humour, and the chance to track down yet another obscure monument, having worked on seven consecutive editions of Lonely Planet’s Prague guide. A full-time freelance writer since 1988, Neil has travelled in five continents and written more than 50 travel and walking guides for various publishers; he is based in Edinburgh, Scotland. For more information see www.neil-wilson.com. Neil also wrote the Planning and Day Trips chapters and half of the Sleeping chapter. Read more about Neil at: lonelyplanet.com/members/neilwilson
Mark Baker Vinohrady & Vršovice, Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice, Smíchov & Vyšehrad Mark first visited Prague in the 1980s as a journalist for the Economist Group. Those were the dark days of the dying communist regime, yet even then he was hooked by the city’s beauty, mysticism and roast pork. He moved to Prague permanently in the early ’90s. He was a co-founder-owner of the Globe Bookstore & Coffeehouse and journalist for Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty. Now he works as a freelance travel writer. In addition to this book, Mark is co-author of the Lonely Planet guides to Romania and Poland. Mark also wrote the Architecture, Best of Bohemia and Best of Moravia chapters, the Understand and Survival chapters, and half of the Sleeping chapter. Read more about Mark at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/markbaker
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 10th edition – November 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 139 9 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
16
Top Itineraries Day One
Day Two
Prague Castle & Hradčany (p60)
Staré Město (p91)
M
the day in the Old Town M Start Square; after watching the Astro-
Take a wander through Prague Castle’s courtyards before the main sights open, then spend the morning visiting St Vitus Cathedral, the Old Royal Palace and the Lobkowicz Palace; try and time things to catch the changing of the guard at noon. Lunch Lobkowicz Palace Café (p74) serves good food with a view.
Malá Strana (p77 ) Descend from the castle to Malá
R Strana along Nerudova street, and
stop to admire the baroque beauty of St Nicholas Church. From here, head to the Wallenstein Garden for some peace and quiet, then exit on the far side and follow the backstreets south to Kampa. If it’s sunny, hang out in the park, and grab a drink at Mlýnská Kavárna, or pay a visit to the Kampa Museum. As day fades, stroll across Charles Bridge in the evening light. Dinner Lichfield (p87) is a sophisticated place for a special dinner.
Malá Strana (p77 ) Malá Strana is full of buzzy bars – U
N Malého Glena is a classic Prague bar
and jazz club, with live music every night.
nomical Clock do its thing, climb to the top of the Old Town Hall Tower for a great view of the square. Head along Celetná to the Municipal House and have a coffee while you admire the art-nouveau decor. Buy a ticket for a concert; if you have time before lunch, take a guided tour. Lunch Try Lokál (p109) for an authentically Czech lunch. And great beer.
Staré Město (p91) Dedicate the afternoon to visiting the
R half-dozen monuments that comprise
the Prague Jewish Museum; if you don’t have the time or energy for all of them, concentrate on the Old-New Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Spanish Synagogue. Dinner Vino di Vino (p109) is good for Italian food and wine.
Staré Město (p91) Attend a concert in the Municipal
N House’s Smetana Hall or the Kle-
mentinum’s Chapel of Mirrors, or spend a night at the opera at the Estates Theatre; afterwards, explore Old Town cocktail joints such as Hemingway Bar and Čili Bar.
17
Day Four
Nové Město (p116)
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice (p149)
M
Explore the passages and arcades around Wenceslas Square by following our walking tour (p126), and (as time and inclination allows) take in the historical and artistic treasures of the National Museum, the Prague City Museum and the Mucha Museum. Lunch Le Patio (p127) is a favourite local lunch spot.
Smíchov & Vyšehrad (p164) In the afternoon, take a metro
R ride out to Vyšehrad and explore
Prague’s other castle, the Vyšehrad Citadel, with its gorgeous views along the Vltava River. Don’t miss the impressive tombs of composers Dvořák and Smetana and other famous Czechs in the Vyšehrad Cemetery. Walk back to the city centre along the embankment. Dinner Head to Sansho (p127) for a memorable meal (book in advance).
Nové Město (p116) The New Town is home to the city’s most prestigious classical-music venues – try to catch a performance at the National Theatre (ballet), the Prague State Opera or the Dvořák Museum (concerts of Dvořák’s music).
N
to escape the city for a while: M Time take a boat trip to the rural suburb of Troja (or hire a bike and ride there) and visit Prague Zoo and Troja Chateau. Walk back into the city centre through Stromovka park (the reverse of our walking tour on p155). Lunch Enjoy a picnic lunch in leafy Stromovka park (p153).
Holešovice, Bubeneč & Dejvice (p149) You could spend an entire after-
R noon admiring modern art in the
Veletržní Palác, but if the outdoor bug has bitten keep walking (or take a tram) to Letná Gardens for some afternoon drinking at Letná Beer Garden, the city’s premier open-air chill-out spot. Dinner Sasazu (p154) captures the trendy vibe of this district.
Žižkov & Karlín (p142) Take the metro across town to Jiřího
N z Poděbrad station, and go up the
TV Tower for a night-time city panorama (open till 10pm). From here, the legendary bars of Žižkov await – Bukowski’s cocktail dive is just two blocks downhill.
PL AN YOUR TRIP TO P I T I N E R A R I E S
Day Three
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