112 Travel Flores to Alor

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Travel | Flores to Alor

Pioneering phinisis, like the 51m superyacht Dunia Baru (‘New World’), have a crucial part to play in opening up the hidden treasures of Indonesia’s more isolated islands. Colours makes some unexpected discoveries among the tangle of islands that lie between Flores and Alor. Words and photography by Mark Eveleigh


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Travel | Flores to Alor © Narina Exelby

Only in Indonesia could a wave this perfect have remained undiscovered.

There’s an air of mystery waking in a boat that you never find on land. Every day is a brand-new experience, and you rarely know exactly what you’ll wake to see when the sun rises.

tucked into a large but sheltered bay to the east of Alor Island, and I was surprised that Indonesia’s predominantly southern swell would reach this location.

The gentle sway of the boat had rocked me to sleep, but it was the dawn light playing like a mirage on the teak ceiling that woke me with a feeling of delicious anticipation for the day ahead. It had already been dark when we’d anchored and I was curious to see where we were.

“Look at that!” said a voice at my shoulder. “Sick, bro!”

The deck was already warm under my bare feet when I stepped out, clutching a mug of cappuccino, to take in the view. On the western horizon I could see the volcanoes of Flores reflecting the gold of the early sun, and to the east was a picture-postcard landscape with a palm-fringed beach protected by a sun-dappled lagoon.

With a nod of approval, the dreadlocked Hawaiian Akoni Kama smiled as he wordlessly offered me a set of binoculars. I scanned the shoreline in the direction they were pointing and instantly understood their excitement.

As a surfer, however, my eyes and ears were drawn to the rumble of waves breaking over the submerged reef. Mark Robba, Dunia Baru’s owner, had pin-pointed our location on the charts when we arrived; we were

It was Californian surfer Andre Emery, clutching his own coffee and talking with an enthusiasm that seemed inappropriately at odds with the early hour.

Along the distant curve of the reef I could see the shadow-line of a wave starting to form. It darkened as it rumbled into shallower water, and seemed to heave itself up, and suddenly I was looking straight into the end of an almond-shaped barrel that reeled with machine-like precision straight


Occasionally lunch – the freshest fish you will ever eat – is simply hauled in over the stern deck. Production of seaweed in Indonesia, the world’s biggest producer, is now believed to reach over 10 million tons per year. The village of Lamalera, the largest island of the stunning Solor archipelago.

Sailing is the only way for most people even to access remote spots like these,” Mark Robba pointed out.

along the reef edge. Feathers of spray drifted off its curling lip in the offshore breeze. Mixed with the anticipation was a feeling of frustration: we’d known beforehand that most of our route would be along leeward northern shores and none of us had even brought surfboards. The 3m stand-up paddleboards that were on board were seriously over-length for a wave of this calibre, but Akoni pointed out that the ancient Hawaiians had surfed much more fearsome waves on heavier planks. I dropped over the ledge and angled the board along the silvery wall, which peeled with a speed

and hollowness that reminded me of a lefthand version of Nias’s world-class Lagundri. On these heavy boards, all but two or three of our waves ended in barrelling wipe-outs, but we were thrilled to have been the first people ever to surf this point. Only in Indonesia could a wave this perfect have remained undiscovered. Among the twisting islands of the world’s greatest archipelago, there must be countless other mysteries waiting to be pioneered. “Sailing is the only way for most people even to access remote spots like these,” Mark Robba pointed out. “This is world-class adventure – true.” I know exactly what he means. I’ve travelled widely throughout Indonesia and have counted myself lucky to have visited islands and communities that have never been marked by a foreign footprint. It had been almost a week since we’d weighed anchor in Maumere and rounded the western edge of the island that the Portuguese

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5 Senses – Sound MOKO DRUMS Be thrilled by the sound of the sacred moko drums as the Abui people perform their warrior dances. The music is strangely hypnotic, with the drums playing a rhythmic counterpoint to the jingle of the thick metal anklets that the Abui women wear. The Abui were once feared headhunters, and the challenging dance of the warriors as you enter the village of Takpala remains unnerving even today. Bersenang-senanglah saat mendengar gendang moko yang keramat dimainkan untuk mengiringi tari pejuang warga Abui. Musiknya terasa menghipnotis, suara gendangnya seirama dengan suara hentakan gelang besi yang dikenakan di kaki perempuan Abui. Suku Abui dahulu adalah pemburu yang disegani dan tarian pejuang yang ditampilkan saat Anda memasuki Desa Takpala tetap terasa dapat membuat ciut nyali lawan, bahkan hingga kini.

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The people of Larantuka market, on Flores’ east coast, are a cheerfully boisterous bunch. Larantuka market, Flores, is the ideal place to check out the riches of the local fish catch as well as agricultural production. Bizarrely, the main source of income for many islanders around the Alor archipelago is seaweed, for export as a fixing agent in food and cosmetics.

On other islands we had talked with seaweed harvesters, danced with Abui tribespeople and swum with Sea Gypsy children.

explorers called ‘The Cape of Flowers’. As Robba had promised, every day had brought new adventures. We’d dived with turtles and mantas, sailed around smoking volcanoes and visited the legendary village of Lamalera, the largest island of the stunning Solor archipelago in the Lesser Sunda Islands. On other islands we had talked with seaweed farmers, danced with Abui tribespeople and swum with smiling Sea Gypsy children. On tiny Pulau Pura, headman Andrean Baut Bakawetang told me how his forefathers had carried the great iron anchor to the village from the peak at the centre of the island. “But how did it get up there in the first place?” I asked. “Nobody knows how the anchor got to the island – perhaps it is Portuguese or Dutch,”

he explained. “In ancient times though, our ancestors were giants – even taller than you. They carried the anchor to the top of the hill. It was easy for them – they had muscles even bigger than yours!” Pak Andrean went on to describe how his community was divided into four separate tribes. The Mulepang tribe, boasting no more than 12 families, might be the smallest tribe on earth. It is among hidden archipelagos like these that you truly grasp the incredible diversity of this country. Indonesia boasts countless treasures amongst its secret islands. New Routes to Maumere and Kupang Before you go island-hopping between Flores and Alor, be sure to take the time to explore the charming coastal towns of Maumere and


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to the Virgin Maria – known as the Mother of all Nations – which gazes down over the city from Nilo Hill. On the hill behind Nilo, explore the St Petrus Ritapiret Seminary and enjoy the rare experience of seeing the bed that was slept in by a saint: Pope John Paul II stayed here during his visit to Maumere in 1989. And then of course there are the rich artistic and cultural traditions of the region, inspired by the incredible landscapes. Textile weaving has always been a central part of community life here. Flores is known for its fine homespun and hand-dyed ikat, and, in particular, the women who work at the Women’s Weaver Cooperative of Lepo Lorun have become renowned as some of the finest textile artists in the world. Alfonsa Horeng established Lepo Lorun in 2003 and has since travelled to more than 30 countries exhibiting her island’s fine ikat.

5 Senses – Sight KUMBA VOLCANO Kumba Volcano rises sheer against the watery horizon, with a plume of smoke trailing like a battle standard to windward. Dunia Baru skips forward under a full head of sail and, as darkness begins to fall, you can make out the stream of lava glowing orange on her flanks. Lying a day’s sail north of Kawula Island, Kumba is surely one of Indonesia’s most evocatively beautiful volcanoes and is approachable only by sea. Gunung Berapi Kumba berdiri berseberangan dengan laut, dan kepulan asap bertiup ke arah angin. Dunia Baru berselancar menyusuri laut dan saat gelap tiba, Anda dapat menyaksikan lelehan lahar bergulir di lerengnya. Jika kita berlayar ke arah utara Pulau Kawula, Kumba adalah salah satu gunung berapi paling indah di Indonesia dan hanya bisa diamati dari laut.

Kumba Volcano rises above the watery horizon, its plume of smoke feathering into a dusky sky. Mr Abner is one of the respected elder warriors of Alor’s Abui tribe.

Kupang, which are now easier to reach, thanks to two new route launches by Garuda Indonesia. Maumere is the seat capital of the Sikka Regency in Flores, and the largest town on the island. Located on the dramatic north coast of Flores, Maumere is a great point of entry for exploring the island’s astonishing natural landscapes, which are so beautiful that Portuguese explorers were inspired to call the island ‘Cape of Flowers’ when they first came here in 1511. One such beauty is Koka Beach, lying on the south coast, just an hour from the city. With its two perfectly curving scimitars of white sand, Koka could be a Hollywood backdrop for some tropical island fantasy. Kelimutu National Park, roughly three hours’ drive from Maumere, boasts a stunning sight too: the sparkling gem-like lakes of the caldera of Kelimutu. The three differentcoloured lakes (at 1,600m) are sacred to the people of this area, and it is an impressively spiritual place. The colours of the lakes continuously change over the years, shifting from hues of bright green and milky white to dark brown and piercing blue. Sometimes unpredictable changes in colour can take place almost overnight. Hiking to the summit and catching the sunrise here is an unforgettable Flores experience. Before heading back to town, gaze upon the view of Maumere’s coastline from the viewpoint around the 18m-tall copper-clad monument

Kupang, by contrast, has a more hectic energy to it as the capital of East Nusa Tenggara. This waterfront capital is a university town and regional transportation hub that buzzes with a chaotic and vibrant vitality. There is plenty of modest ocean-view accommodation to choose from, as well as colourful bars, restaurants and night markets to explore. Not far from Kupang is the Crystal Cave, a must-see for adventurers keen to get off the beaten path. With a natural underground pool of crystal-clear blue waters, this is the perfect spot for a refreshing swim. Be sure to bring a torch and pack footwear suitable for clambering down slippery rocks to enter the cave. Kupang is also the gateway to the paradisiacal beaches and epic surf found on the nearby islands of Rote and Alor.

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The beautiful bay of Mauloo is one of many highlights on Flores’ south coast just an hour and a half from Maumere.

Kapal penjelajah pinisi, seperti yacht ukuran 51 meter yang dinamakan Dunia Baru, memiliki peranan penting dalam menguak harta tersembunyi di pulau-pulau Indonesia yang masih terisolasi. Colours mendapatkan banyak temuan mengejutkan di antara pulau-pulau yang terbentang antara Flores dan Alor. Ada aura misteri yang terasa saat terbangun di atas kapal yang tidak akan pernah kita rasakan saat berada di daratan. Setiap hari merupakan pengalaman baru dan kita tak akan pernah tahu apa yang akan kita lihat saat fajar tiba. Buaian lembut kapal telah meninabobokan saya sampai tertidur, namun sinar mentari yang menerangi langit-langit dari kayu jati membuat saya terbangun dengan rasa tak sabar menyongsong hari. Hari mulai gelap waktu kami berangkat dan sekarang saya penasaran di manakah kami berada saat ini.

The Mother of All Nations monument.

Beranda kapal sudah terasa hangat di bawah kaki saya yang telanjang saat keluar, sambil membawa secangkir cappuccino dan menikmati pemandangan. Di horizon bagian barat saya bisa melihat deretan gunung berapi Flores memancarkan bias cahaya keemasan matahari dan saat kami berbelok ke timur tampak keindahan panorama bak

terlukis di kartu pos, lengkap dengan pantai yang dipenuhi pohon palem dan terlindungi oleh laguna nan indah. Sebagai seorang peselancar, mata dan telinga saya langsung tertuju ke deru ombak yang pecah di karang. Mark Robba, pemilik kapal Dunia Baru, menunjukkan lokasi kami di peta saat tiba tadi; kami berada di teluk besar yang tersembunyi di sebelah timur pulau Alor dan saya terkejut mengetahui bahwa ombak selatan Indonesia yang terkenal bisa sampai ke lokasi ini. “Lihat itu!” ujar sebuah suara di belakang saya, “Luar biasa!” Ia adalah peselancar asal California, Andre Emery, yang sambil menggenggam cangkir kopinya, berbicara penuh antusias di hari yang masih sepagi ini. Sambil menganggukkan kepala tanda setuju, Akoni Kama, peselancar asal Hawaii berambut gimbal, langsung tersenyum seraya menyerahkan teropong. Saya melihat garis pantai di arah yang mereka tunjuk dan saya langsung memahami rasa sukacita yang mereka rasakan. Sepanjang lekukan karang nan jauh di sana saya bisa melihat bayangan garis ombak yang mulai terbentuk. Ombak itu menjadi kian gelap saat mendekati perairan dangkal,


Where to Stay

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menjadi makin tinggi dan tiba-tiba saya melihat sebuah barel yang berbentuk seperti kacang almond dengan presisi lurus sepanjang tepi karang. Biasan air terlihat seperti bulu terbang di tepian pantai. Rasa semangat bercampur dengan frustrasi: kami sudah tahu sebelumnya bahwa kami akan menyusuri rute pantai utara namun tak seorang pun dari kami membawa papan selancar. Papan dayung sepanjang tiga meter yang ada di kapal ini terlalu besar untuk ombak sekaliber ini, tapi Akoni mengatakan bahwa orang Hawaii dahulu malah sering berselancar di atas ombak yang lebih besar dengan menggunakan papan yang lebih berat.

Dunia Baru Dunia Baru is based in Komodo from April to September and in Raja Ampat through October and November. The ship berths 14 guests in palatial comfort, and boasts an impressive selection of water toys (sailing dinghy, kayaks, two jet skis and three powerful RIBs) and a fully equipped dive centre. www.duniabaru.com Dunia Baru bersandar di Komodo selama April hingga September dan di Raja Ampat selama Oktober dan November. Kapal ini bisa menampung 14 tamu secara nyaman dan memiliki aneka pilihan mainan laut untuk Anda (kapal layar, kayak, dua jet ski dan tiga perahu karet yang kuat) serta dive centre dengan peralatan lengkap.

Saya pun turun ke atas bebatuan dan mengarahkan papan menyamping ke arah gulungan ombak yang kecepatan dan tingginya mengingatkan saya akan ombak kelas dunia di Lagundri, Nias, namun dengan versi left-hand. Dengan papan yang berat ini, nyaris dari semua ombak yang datang, kami harus berakhir dengan papan yang terlepas, tapi kami senang bisa menjadi orang pertama yang berselancar di tempat yang kini kami sebut Fukawi Point. Hanya di Indonesia saja ombak sesempurna ini bisa tersembunyi dengan cantiknya. Di antara pulau-pulau kecil di khatulistiwa terbaik di dunia ini pasti ada banyak misteri lain yang menunggu untuk dijelajahi. “Berlayar adalah satu-satunya cara untuk dapat mengakses tempat tersembunyi seperti ini,” ujar Mark Robba. Sebuah petualangan kelas dunia, sebuah penjelajahan sejati. Saya paham betul maksudnya. Saya sudah bepergian menjelajahi Indonesia dan merasa amat beruntung bisa mengunjungi pulau dan komunitas yang belum pernah didatangi warga asing.

A buffalo cools its heels in a typically fresh and picturesque Flores mountain river. Lepo Lorun, a women’s weaving cooperative known for producing some of the island’s finest ikat.

Sudah hampir genap satu minggu sejak kami bersandar di Maumere dan menjelajahi tepi barat pulau yang disebut penjelajah Portugis “Teluk Bunga”. Seperti yang dijanjikan Robba, setiap hari kami menemukan petualangan baru. Kami menyelam dengan kura-kura dan ikan pari, berlayar mengitari gunung berapi yang berasap dan mengunjungi Desa Lamalera yang legendaris. Di pulau lain kami berbincang dengan petani rumput laut, menari bersama suku Abui dan berenang dengan anak-anak yang ceria. Di pulau kecil Pura, kepala desa Andrean Baut Bakawetang bercerita bahwa nenek moyangnya dahulu bahkan sanggup membawa turun jangkar besi berukuran besar dari puncak yang berada di tengah pulau ke desa mereka. “Tapi bagaimana jangkar ini bisa berada di atas puncak itu?” tanya saya. “Tidak ada yang tahu tepatnya bagaimana jangkar itu bisa sampai ke pulau—mungkin bawaan orang Portugis atau Belanda,” jelasnya. “Dahulu kala, nenek moyang kami bertubuh besar—mereka bahkan lebih tinggi dari Anda. Mereka membawa jangkar ini ke puncak bukit. Hal yang mudah bagi mereka—otot mereka bahkan lebih besar dari Anda!” Lalu Pak Andrean menjelaskan bahwa penduduk di pulau tersebut dibagi menjadi empat suku. Suku Mulepang hanya terdiri atas 12 keluarga, mungkin ini adalah suku terkecil di dunia. Di khatulistiwa tersembunyi seperti inilah kita bisa benar-benar memahami

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A young man makes a signals of approval for his workplace environment during a hard day seaweed collecting in Alor.

5 Senses – Taste LUXURY PHINISI FARE Sailing on a luxury phinisi is a far cry from the old-time sailors’ fare of salted meat and hardtack biscuit. Sumptuous gourmet meals are created by Australian chef Tom Brett in Dunia Baru’s eat-in galley, either from the ship’s ample provisions of premium imported or Indonesian produce, or ‘rustled up’ from a fresh yellow-fin tuna that was reeled in over the stern just an hour ago.

Flores and Alor on the Map

CELEBES SEA

• Sumatra

• Kalimantan

Sulawesi • • Papua

Java •

FLORES SEA

Bali •

• Flores • Alor • Sumba Island

Berlayar di kapal pinisi yang mewah berarti selamat tinggal untuk daging yang diasinkan dan biskuit keras yang biasa dikonsumsi para pelaut zaman dahulu. Aneka hidangan lezat disajikan langsung oleh koki asal Australia Tom Brett: baik dengan bahan berupa stok impor atau produksi Indonesia... atau justru berupa tuna sirip kuning segar hasil tangkapan satu jam lalu.

Travel | Flores to Alor keanekaragaman yang luar biasa di negara ini. Masih ada banyak harta karun tersembunyi di Indonesia berupa pulau-pulau indah yang belum banyak dieksplorasi. Rute Baru ke Maumere dan Kupang Sebelum Anda berpelesir dari pulau ke pulau antara Flores dan Alor, pastikan Anda menjelajahi keindahan Maumere dan Kupang, kota-kota di pesisir pantai yang kini lebih mudah dijangkau dengan dibukanya dua rute baru dari Garuda Indonesia. Maumere adalah ibu kota dari Kabupaten Sikka, di Flores, sekaligus kota terbesar di pulau ini. Berlokasi di pesisir utara Flores, Maumere merupakan titik tolak yang strategis untuk menjelajahi alam Flores yang luar biasa, yang begitu indahnya sehingga kolonial Portugis menjuluki pulau ini dengan nama “Cape of Flowers” atau Bukit Bunga, begitu mendarat tahun 1511. Salah satu keindahan pulau ini adalah Pantai Koka, yang berada di pesisir selatan dan dapat dicapai hanya satu jam dari kota. Dengan pantainya yang berpasir putih, Koka bisa menjadi lokasi syuting untuk film-film fantasi Hollywood bertemakan pulau tropis. Taman Nasional Kelimutu, sekitar 3 jam berkendara dari Maumere, menawarkan pemandangan yang menakjubkan dari danau tiga warna Kelimutu. Danau dengan tiga warna tersebut (di ketinggian 1.600 m)

• Maumere • Kupang

DENPASAR TO MAUMERE Flight Time 2 hours Frequency 4 flights per week JAKARTA TO KUPANG Flight Time 2 hours, 55 minutes Frequency 7 flights per week

dianggap keramat oleh masyarakat setempat, dan memang sebuah tempat spiritual yang mengesankan. Warna-warni danau tersebut berubah-ubah selama beberapa tahun, mulai dari hijau muda dan putih susu hingga cokelat tua dan biru. Terkadang perubahan warna tersebut tak dapat diprediksi, bisa berubah dalam waktu satu malam. Mendaki hingga ke puncak kaldera ini, dan menangkap momen terbitnya fajar merupakan pengalaman tak terlupakan yang bisa Anda dapatkan di Flores ini. Sebelum kembali ke kota, Anda bisa menikmati pesisir Maumere dari sekitar monumen patung Bunda Maria setinggi 18 m, yang juga dikenal sebagai Bunda Segala Bangsa, patung enatap ke arah kota dari atas Bukit Nilo. Di bukit di belakang Bukit Nilo ini, Anda dapat mengunjungi Seminari St Petrus Ritapiret dan mendapatkan pengalaman langka melihat tempat tidur yang pernah digunakan oleh Paus John Paul II saat berkunjung ke Maumere tahun 1989. Selain itu, pulau ini juga memiliki kekayaan tradisi seni dan budaya yang terinspirasi keindahan alamnya. Kerajinan kain tenun menjadi bagian penting dari kehidupan masyarakat pulau ini. Flores dikenal dengan kerajinan tenun ATBM dan tenun ikatnya, khususnya bagi perempuan-perempuan yang menjadi anggota koperasi Tenun Lepo Lorun telah terkenal sebagai pengrajin tenun terbaik di dunia. Alfonsa Horeng mendirikan

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Lepo Lorun tahun 2003 dan telah berkelana ke lebih dari 30 negara untuk memamerkan tenun ikat hasil karya kampung halamannya. Lain halnya dengan Maumere, Kupang terkesan lebih sibuk karena merupakan ibu kota Nusa Tenggara Timur. Ibu kota yang berlokasi di tepi pantai merupakan kota universitas dan hub bagi transportasi ke daerah sekitarnya, sehingga tak heran bila kota ini lebih ramai. Di sini terdapat cukup banyak akomodasi tepi pantai yang sederhana, sejumlah bar, restoran dan pasar malam yang dapat dikunjungi. Tak jauh dari kota ini terdapat Gua Kristal, hal yang tak boleh dilewatkan bagi penyuka petualangan alam. Dengan kolam berair jernih di dalam gua ini, tempat ini juga bisa digunakan untuk berenang. Pastikan Anda tak lupa membawa senter dan alas kaki yang tepat untuk menuruni bebatuan yang licin saat memasuki gua. Sebagai hub transportasi, Kupang juga merupakan tempat berlibur di tepi pantai serta area untuk berselancar dengan ombak besarnya, yang bisa ditemukan di pulaupulau tetangga seperti Rote dan Alor.

The three enigmatic crater lakes of Kelimutu are famous for their changing colours.

112 Travel Flores to Alor

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