Kata kunci : ready-to-wear deluxe, VirtuaLuxe, supernova, nebula, futuristik, struktural

ABSTRAK

“Exploring the Milky Way Galaxy” diangkat berdasarkan eksplorasi (exploring) terhadap komponen dalam Galaksi Bima Sakti (Milky Way Galaxy), yaitu ledakan bintang atau supernova dan warna kosmik gas nebula. Berdasarkan inspirasi tersebut, terciptalah sebuah koleksi busana ready-to-wear deluxe yang mengacu pada tema “Galactic Explosion” dari tren VirtuaLuxe 2013. Dari konsep supernova dan nebula, desain koleksi ready-to-wear deluxe dibuat modern, futuristik, unik dan struktural. Siluet busana mengadaptasi bentuk dari ledakan bintang, berupa garis tegas yang dikomposisikan menjadi bentuk struktural tertentu. Motif busana diambil dari pendaran warna gas nebula yang dibuat dengan menggunakan teknik printing agar lebih terkesan futuristik. Warna–warna yang digunakan antara lain hitam, magenta, biru tua dan ungu tua. Material dari koleksi ready-to-wear deluxe menggunakan bahan yang mendukung kesan futuristik, modern dan struktural, yaitu kain yang mengkilat, tebal dan berkilau, seperti taffeta bridal dan paillette. Ketebalan kain taffeta bridal dapat menghasilkan bentuk struktural yang baik, sedangkan kain paillette memiliki aplikasi taburan payet kecil yang sangat banyak dan rapat pada permukaan kainnya, sehingga dapat menimbulkan kesan modern dan futuristik. Proses awal desain diawali dari pengeksplorasian inspirasi dengan mengumpulkan gambar yang berhubungan dengan tema dan konsep yang kemudian disusun menjadi sebuah moodboard. Kemudian desain koleksi ready-to-wear deluxe dibuat berdasarkan moodboard dan direalisasikan dengan pembuatan pola, pemotongan kain dan penjahitan hingga menjadi sebuah koleksi busana. Koleksi ditujukan untuk entertainer dari segala bidang, namun lebih dikhususkan bagi penyanyi wanita berusia 20–30 tahun yang berani tampil beda dalam berpakaian, menyukai sesuatu yang futuristik dan senang berbusana eksentrik. Koleksi busana dapat dikenakan dalam menghadiri acara red carpet, tampil di panggung, pemotretan atau pembuatan video musik. Diharapkan koleksi ready-to-wear deluxe dengan konsep supernova dan nebula dapat menjawab kebutuhan akan busana yang unik, modern dan futuristik dalam dunia hiburan.

Kata kunci : ready-to-wear deluxe, VirtuaLuxe, supernova, nebula, futuristik, struktural.

Universitas Kristen Maranatha | i

ABSTRACT

"Exploring the Milky Way Galaxy" taken by the exploration of the components of Milky Way Galaxy, which is the stars explosion or usually called supernova, and cosmic color of nebula gas. Based on the inspiration, a ready-to-wear deluxe fashion collection design was created, which refers to "Galactic Explosion" theme of VirtuaLuxe 2013 trend. From supernovae and nebulae concept, ready-to-wear deluxe fashion collection design was made with modern, futuristic, unique and structurally. Fashion silhouette adapted from exploding stars form (supernovae), in the form of firm lines that composed into a certain structural form. Fashion patterns taken from the luminescence color of nebula gas that made by using printing techniques to emphasize the futuristic nuance. The chosen colors range are black, magenta, dark blue and dark violet. Ready-to-wear deluxe fashion collection used materials that could support the impression of futuristic, modern and structural form, such as shimmery, thick and glittery fabric, for example bridal taffeta and paillette fabric. Bridal taffeta thickness is good to form structural shape, meanwhile paillette fabric has dense sparkling small sequins applications on the surface of the fabric that can create modern and futuristic impression. The beginning of design process started from exploring inspiration by collecting images that relate to the theme and concept, then compiled into a moodboard. The design of ready-to-wear deluxe collection was created based on moodboard and realized by pattern making, cutting fabric and sewing to be a fashion collection. The collection is suitable for female entertainers of all fields, but more specifically for singers, aged 20-30 years who dared to be different in dress up, like something futuristic and loved to look eccentric. This collection could be imposed to attending red carpet event, performing on stage, photo shoots or music video outfit. Expected ready-to-wear deluxe fashion collection with supernovae and nebulae concept can answer the needs of unique, modern and futuristic fashion in entertainment world.

Keywords : ready-to-wear deluxe, VirtuaLuxe, supernova, nebula, futuristic, structural.

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DAFTAR ISI ABSTRAK....................................................................................................................i ABSTRACT..................................................................................................................ii KATA PENGANTAR...............................................................................................iii DAFTAR ISI...............................................................................................................v DAFTAR GAMBAR...............................................................................................viii DAFTAR LAMPIRAN.............................................................................................xii BAB I PENDAHULUAN...........................................................................................1 1.1

Latar Belakang..................................................................................................1

1.2

Identifikasi Masalah..........................................................................................3

1.3

Batasan Masalah...............................................................................................3

1.4

Tujuan Perancangan.........................................................................................3

1.5

Metode Perancangan........................................................................................4

1.6

Sistematika Penulisan.......................................................................................4

BAB II LANDASAN TEORI....................................................................................5 2.1

2.2

2.3

Teori Desain.....................................................................................................5 2.1.1

Unsur Desain........................................................................................6

2.1.2

Prinsip Desain.......................................................................................8

Teori Fashion..................................................................................................10 2.2.1

Fashion................................................................................................10

2.2.2

Style.....................................................................................................11

2.2.3

Tren.....................................................................................................12

Teori Busana...................................................................................................13 2.3.1

Sejarah Busana....................................................................................13

2.3.2

Pengertian Busana...............................................................................14

2.3.3

Fungsi Busana.....................................................................................15

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2.4

2.5

2.6

2.3.4

Bentuk Busana (Siluet).......................................................................18

2.3.5

Kategori Busana.................................................................................18

Teori Pola dan Jahit........................................................................................22 2.4.1

Pengertian Pola Dasar........................................................................22

2.4.2

Pembuatan Pola Dasar........................................................................24

2.4.3

Rumus Pola Dasar...............................................................................25

2.4.4

Pengertian Jahit...................................................................................26

Teori Tekstil....................................................................................................27 2.5.1

Pengertian Tekstil...............................................................................27

2.5.2

Pengertian Serat..................................................................................27

2.5.3

Pengertian Kain..................................................................................28

Reka Bahan Tekstil........................................................................................29 2.6.1

Printing...............................................................................................33

2.6.2

Pencelupan.........................................................................................35

BAB III DESKRIPSI OBJEK STUDI...................................................................37 3.1

3.2

3.3

Galaksi............................................................................................................37 3.1.1

Galaksi Bima Sakti.............................................................................37

3.1.2

Supernova dan Nebula.......................................................................38

Tren 2013 “VirtuaLuxe”................................................................................39 3.2.1

Astrochemistry....................................................................................40

3.2.2

Galactic Explosion..............................................................................41

Futuristik.........................................................................................................42

BAB IV KONSEP PERANCANGAN....................................................................44 4.1

4.2

Perancangan Umum.......................................................................................44 4.1.1

Image Board.......................................................................................44

4.1.2

Konsep................................................................................................44

4.1.3

Ilustrasi Fashion..................................................................................45

Perancangan Khusus......................................................................................48 4.2.1. Desain 1..............................................................................................48 4.2.2

Desain 2..............................................................................................51

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4.3

4.2.3

Desain 3..............................................................................................53

4.2.4

Desain 4..............................................................................................56

Perancangan Detail........................................................................................58

BAB V PENUTUP...................................................................................................60 5.1

Kesimpulan.....................................................................................................60

5.2

Saran...............................................................................................................60

DAFTAR PUSTAKA...............................................................................................62 SUMBER GAMBAR...............................................................................................65 BIODATA PENULIS...............................................................................................68 LAMPIRAN..............................................................................................................69 LAMPIRAN A

: POLA DASAR (SKALA 1 : 4)...........................................69

LAMPIRAN B

: POLA KECIL (SKALA 1 : 4).............................................71

LAMPIRAN C

: UKURAN MODEL.............................................................88

LAMPIRAN D

: FOTO MATERIAL.............................................................89

LAMPIRAN E

: FOTO KOLEKSI.................................................................90

LAMPIRAN F

: TECHNICAL DRAWING...................................................100

LAMPIRAN G

: ILUSTRASI FASHION.....................................................108

LAMPIRAN H

: FOTO REKA BAHAN......................................................112

LAMPIRAN I

: FOTO PROSES PEMBUATAN.......................................113

LAMPIRAN J

: MINDMAP.........................................................................115

LAMPIRAN K

: RINCIAN HARGA...........................................................116

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DAFTAR GAMBAR Gambar 2.1

Unsur Garis...........................................................................................6

Gambar 2.2

Dua Dimensi.........................................................................................7

Gambar 2.3

Tiga Dimensi.........................................................................................7

Gambar 2.4

Lingkaran Warna..................................................................................7

Gambar 2.5

Unsur Tekstur........................................................................................8

Gambar 2.6

Unsur Nilai............................................................................................8

Gambar 2.7

Prinsip Keseimbangan..........................................................................9

Gambar 2.8

Prinsip Kesatuan...................................................................................9

Gambar 2.9

Prinsip Kesederhanaan........................................................................10

Gambar 2.10 Prinsip Kontras....................................................................................10 Gambar 2.11 Siklus Fashion.....................................................................................13 Gambar 2.12 Pakaian Kuno Bangsa Mesir, Siria, Yunani dan Roma......................14 Gambar 2.13 Busana Dalam.....................................................................................18 Gambar 2.14 Busana Rumah....................................................................................19 Gambar 2.15 Busana Olahraga.................................................................................19 Gambar 2.16 Busana Kerja.......................................................................................19 Gambar 2.17 Busana Kerja.......................................................................................19 Gambar 2.18 Busana Rekreasi..................................................................................20 Gambar 2.19 Busana Sekolah...................................................................................20 Gambar 2.20 Busana Kerja Formal..........................................................................21 Gambar 2.21 Busana Berpergian..............................................................................21 Gambar 2.22 Busana Pesta Siang.............................................................................22 Gambar 2.23 Busana Pesta Sore...............................................................................22 Gambar 2.24 Busana Adat........................................................................................22 Gambar 2.25 Konstruksi Datar.................................................................................23 Gambar 2.26 Konstruksi Padat.................................................................................23 Gambar 2.27 Perlengkapan Membuat Pola..............................................................24 Gambar 2.28 Pola Dasar Depan................................................................................25 Gambar 2.29 Pola Dasar Belakang...........................................................................25

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Gambar 2.30 Perlengkapan Menjahit.......................................................................26 Gambar 2.31 Serat Alami.........................................................................................28 Gambar 2.32 Serat Sintetis.......................................................................................28 Gambar 2.33 Kain.....................................................................................................29 Gambar 2.34 Kain.....................................................................................................29 Gambar 2.35 Penenunan...........................................................................................30 Gambar 2.36 Perajutan.............................................................................................30 Gambar 2.37 Renda..................................................................................................31 Gambar 2.38 Makrame.............................................................................................31 Gambar 2.39 Membatik............................................................................................32 Gambar 2.40 Kain Printing......................................................................................32 Gambar 2.41 Sulam..................................................................................................33 Gambar 2.42 Bordir..................................................................................................33 Gambar 2.43 Hand-block Printing...........................................................................33 Gambar 2.44 Printing Stamples................................................................................33 Gambar 2.45 Kain Hasil Hand-block Printing.........................................................34 Gambar 2.46 Proses Sablon......................................................................................34 Gambar 2.47 Proses Sablon......................................................................................34 Gambar 2.48 Proses Sablon......................................................................................34 Gambar 2.49 Pencelupan Kain.................................................................................35 Gambar 2.50 Pewarna Alami....................................................................................36 Gambar 2.51 Pewarna Sintetis..................................................................................36 Gambar 3.1

Galaksi Bima Sakti.............................................................................37

Gambar 3.2

Supernova...........................................................................................38

Gambar 3.3

Nebula.................................................................................................38

Gambar 3.4

Tema Astrochemistry..........................................................................40

Gambar 3.5

Sub Tema Galactic Explosion............................................................41

Gambar 3.6

Sub Tema Galactic Explosion............................................................41

Gambar 3.7

Sub Tema Galactic Explosion............................................................41

Gambar 3.8

Desain Futuristik.................................................................................42

Gambar 3.9

Desain Futuristik.................................................................................42

Gambar 3.10 Desain Futuristik.................................................................................43 Universitas Kristen Maranatha | vii

Gambar 3.11 Desain Futuristik.................................................................................43 Gambar 4.1

Image Board........................................................................................44

Gambar 4.2

Ilustrasi Desain....................................................................................46

Gambar 4.3

Ilustrasi Desain....................................................................................46

Gambar 4.4

Ilustrasi Desain....................................................................................46

Gambar 4.5

Ilustrasi Desain....................................................................................46

Gambar 4.6

Palet Warna Magical Analog..............................................................46

Gambar 4.7

Paillette...............................................................................................47

Gambar 4.8

Taffeta Bridal Metalik.........................................................................47

Gambar 4.9

Taffeta Bridal Metalik Printing..........................................................48

Gambar 4.10 Desain 1..............................................................................................49 Gambar 4.11 Desain 2..............................................................................................51 Gambar 4.12 Desain 3..............................................................................................54 Gambar 4.13 Desain 4..............................................................................................56 Gambar 4.14 Pleats...................................................................................................58 Gambar 4.15 Modul..................................................................................................58 Gambar 4.16 Pencelupan Taffeta..............................................................................59 Gambar 4.17 Motif Nebula.......................................................................................59

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