PENGANTAR KARYA STRATA I
EKSPLORASI TEKSTUR PADA KAIN CHIFFON SINTETIK Disusun untuk Memenuhi Syarat Kelulusan Mata KuliahTugas Akhir Kriya Tekstil (KR40ZJ)
Disusun Oleh, Asri Syarifah Nuraini 17203029
Dosen Pembimbing : Kahfiati Kahdar, S.Sn, MA
PROGRAM STUDI KRIA TEKSTIL FAKULTAS SENI RUPA DAN DESAIN INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG 2007
PENGANTAR KARYA STRATA I
EKSPLORASI TEKSTUR PADA KAIN CHIFFON SINTETIK Disusun untuk Memenuhi Syarat Kelulusan Mata KuliahTugas Akhir Kriya Tekstil (KR40ZJ)
Disusun Oleh, Asri Syarifah Nuraini 17203029
Dosen Pembimbing : Kahfiati Kahdar, S.Sn, MA
PROGRAM STUDI KRIA TEKSTIL FAKULTAS SENI RUPA DAN DESAIN INSTITUT TEKNOLOGI BANDUNG 2007
LEMBAR PENGESAHAN
Laporan karya Strata 1 (Satu) ini telah melalui proses penyidangan pada tanggal 19 Juni 2007 serta telah dibaca dan disetujui, oleh :
Kahfiati Kahdar, S.Sn, MA Pembimbing
NIP: 888 037 102
Drs.Zaini Rais, M.Sn Ketua Program Studi
NIP: 131 875 032
Drs.Achmad Haldani, M.Sn Koordinator Tugas Akhir Kria Tekstil
NIP: 131 933 272
KATA PENGANTAR
Bismillahirahmanirrahim... Laporan ini adalah sebagai syarat kelulusan Mata Kuliah Tugas Akhir Kriya Tekstil (KR40ZJ). Selama proses dari kerja profesi ini saya mendapat banyak dukungan dan bantuan dari berbagai pihak. Pada kesempatan ini saya ingin mengucapkan terimakasih banyak, kepada : 1. Kedua orangtua, Deddy Kurniadi, Drs, MBA dan Enny Anggraeni. Terimakasih atas segala kasih dan sayangnya. 2. Kahfiati Kahdar, S.Sn, MA atas bimbingan, motivasi dan arahannya selaku pembimbing tugas akhir ini. 3. Ratna Pangabean, S.Sn, M.Sn atas bimbingan dan motivasi selaku konsultan pada tugas akhir ini. 4. Achmad Haldani, Drs, M.Sn, selaku Ketua Koordinator Tugas Akhir. 5. Zaini Rais, S.Sn, M.Sn, selaku Ketua Program Studi Kria Tekstil. Semoga karya tulis ini akan memberi manfaat yang baik bagi yang membacanya. Saran dan kritik akan sangat bermanfaat bagi penulis.
Bandung, Juni 2007 Penyusun
ABSTRAKSI
Hasrat dalam berkreatifitas adalah kunci dari proses pengembangan sebagai seorang yang berkecimpung dalam pembekalan pendidikan tinggi seni rupa dan desain. Semangat yang positif untuk paham dan menguasai keterampilan dan teknik menangani material (tertentu) merupakan bagian yang harus hadir.
Jurusan kriya tekstil sebagai salah satu program studi yang menghadirkan para siswa yang mampu melahirkan karya-karya tekstil dalam rupa yang lebih segar dan menarik. Dasar penting dari berkarya tekstil salah satunya adalah Surface Design (Reka Latar), dimana Tekstur berbicara banyak tentang keindahan. Desainer tekstil dapat menciptakan ragam baru yang menjadikan simplicity menuju sebuah kompleksitas yang estetik.
Dalam Tugas Akhir ini akan dikembangkan pada eksplorasi tekstur pada kain chiffon sintetik. Kain chiffon sintetik memilik karakter yang cocok dengan berbagai perlakuan reka latar khususnya media penghantar panas. Namun karena karakter chiffon yang menerawang, ringan dan tipis diperlukan ketelitian dan perlakuan khusus untuk mencapai tekstur.
DAFTAR ISI
LEMBAR PENGESAHAN KATA PENGANTAR............................................................................................i ABSTRAKSI....................................................................................................... .ii DAFTAR ISI.........................................................................................................iii DAFTAR GAMBAR.............................................................................................xi DAFTAR TABEL................................................................................................xv
BAB I PENDAHULUAN.......................................................................................1 1.1 Latar Belakang...............................................................................................1 1.2 Asumsi Dasar.................................................................................................2 1.3 Ruang Lingkup dan Batasan Masalah...........................................................2 1.4 Maksud dan Tujuan........................................................................................3
1.5 Metode Penelitian...........................................................................................3 1.5.1
Metode
Deskriptif
Analisis............................................................................3 1.5.1.1
Data
Empiris..............................................................................................3 1.5.1.2
Data
Teoritis..............................................................................................3 1.5.2 Eksploratif.......................................................................................4 1.6 Sistematika Penulisan.....................................................................................4 1.7Kerangka Pemikiran.........................................................................................6
BAB II TINJAUAN TEORITIS 2.1 Definisi Eksplorasi..........................................................................................7 2.1.1 Kamus Bahasa Indonesia............................................................................7 2.1.2 Menurut Encarta Dictionaries......................................................................7 2.2 Definisi Tekstur ..............................................................................................7 2.2.1 Kamus Bahasa Indonesia............................................................................7
Metode
2.2.2 Menurut Encarta Dictionaries.......................................................................8 2.2.3 Menurut Encyclopedia of Textiles................................................................8 2.3 Definisi Kain ...................................................................................................9 2.3.1 Menurut Encarta Dictionaries.......................................................................9 2.3.2 Menurut the Penguin Dictionary of English..................................................9 2.4 Definisi Sintetik................................................................................................9 2.4.1 Menurut Encarta Dictionaries.......................................................................9 2.4.2 Menurut the Penguin Dictionary of English.................................................10 2.5 Definisi Chiffon...............................................................................................10 2.5.1 Menurut Encyclopedia of Fashion...............................................................10 2.5.2 Menurut buku Modern Textiles...................................................................10 2.5.3 Menurut Encyclopedia of Textiles...............................................................11
2.6 Sejarah Chiffon..............................................................................................11 2.7 Jenis Chiffon..................................................................................................11 2.7.1 Menurut yang didapt dari Pengetahuan Barang Tekstil............................12 2.7.2 Nama Jenis Chiffon...................................................................................12 2.8 Teknik Pengolahan dalam Tekstil.................................................................13 a.
Reka
Rakit.......................................................................................................13 b.
Reka
Latar.......................................................................................................13 2.8.1
Teknik
Jahit......................................................................................14 2.8.1.1
Teknik
Jahit
Manual...........................................................14 2.8.1.2
Teknik
Jahit
Masinal..........................................................14 2.8.2
Teknik
Heat
Setting.........................................................................15 2.8.2.1
Teknik
Press.............................................................15
Heat
2.8.2.2
Teknik
Steam
dan
Teknik
Rebus.....................................15 2.8.2.3
Teknik
Soldering...............................................................15 2.8.3
Teknik
Destruktif..................................................................15 2.8.3.1
Teknik
Bakar.....................................................................16 2.8.3.2
Teknik
Gunting..................................................................16 2.8.3.3
Teknik
Pleats.....................................................................16 2.8.4
Teknik
Aplikatif................................................................................17 2.8.4.1
Teknik
Appliqué.................................................................17 2.8.4.2
Teknik
Beading..................................................................17 2.8.4.3
Teknik
Printing...................................................................18 2.8.4.4
Teknik
Bordir.....................................................................18 2.8.4.5 Cutwork..................................................................19
Teknik
2.8.5
Teknik
Layering...............................................................................19 2.9 Efek Psikologis Sebuah Pakaian Menurut Buku Visual Dress In Design, Marian
L.
Davis........................................................................................20 2.9.1
Efek
Sentuhan................................................................................20 2.9.2
Efek
Visual......................................................................................20 2.9.3
Efek
Bunyi.................................................................21 2.9.4 Kombinasi.................................................................21 2.10
Menurut
Sumber
buku
WARNA
:
“Teori
Pengggunaannya”,
dan
Kreativitas Sulasimi
Dharmaprawira.....................................................................................22 2.10.1
Fungsi
Warna................................................................................22 2.10.2
Psikologi
Warna............................................................................24 2.10.2.1
Karakteristik
Warna.........................................................24
BAB III EKSPLORASI TEKSTUR KAIN CHIFFON 3. Eksplorasi.....................................................................................................27
1
3.1.1
Teknik
Reka
Latar......................................................................................27 a.
Teknik
Jahit
...................................................................................................27 b.
Teknik
Destruktif
............................................................................................27 c.
Teknik
Aplikatif
...............................................................................................27 3.1.2 Eksperimen.......................................................................................27 1. Eksperimen 1..................................................................................................27 2. Eksperimen 2..................................................................................................28 3. Eksperimen 3..................................................................................................28 4. Eksperimen 4..................................................................................................28 5. Eksperimen 5..................................................................................................28 6. Eksperimen 6..................................................................................................29 7. Eksperimen 7..................................................................................................29 8. Eksperimen 8..................................................................................................29 9. Eksperimen 9..................................................................................................29
Hasil
10. Eksperimen 10..............................................................................................30 11. Eksperimen 11..............................................................................................30 12. Eksperimen 12..............................................................................................30 13. Eksperimen 13..............................................................................................31 14. Eksperimen 14..............................................................................................31 15. Eksperimen 15..............................................................................................31 16. Eksperimen 16..............................................................................................31 17. Eksperimen 17..............................................................................................32 18. Eksperimen 18..............................................................................................32 19. Eksperimen 19..............................................................................................32 20. Eksperimen 20..............................................................................................32 21. Eksperimen 21..............................................................................................33
22. Eksperimen 22..............................................................................................33 23. Eksperimen 23..............................................................................................33 24. Eksperimen 24..............................................................................................33 25. Eksperimen 25..............................................................................................34 26. Eksperimen 26..............................................................................................34 27. Eksperimen 27..............................................................................................34 28. Eksperimen 28..............................................................................................34 29. Eksperimen 29..............................................................................................35 30. Eksperimen 30..............................................................................................35 31. Eksperimen 31..............................................................................................35 32. Eksperimen 32..............................................................................................35 33. Eksperimen 33..............................................................................................36
34. Eksperimen 34..............................................................................................36 35. Eksperimen 35..............................................................................................36 36. Eksperimen 36..............................................................................................36 37. Eksperimen 37..............................................................................................37 38. Eksperimen 38..............................................................................................37 39. Eksperimen 39..............................................................................................37 40. Eksperimen 40..............................................................................................37 41. Eksperimen 41..............................................................................................38 42. Eksperimen 42..............................................................................................38 43. Eksperimen 43..............................................................................................38 44. Eksperimen 44..............................................................................................38 45. Eksperimen 45..............................................................................................39
46. Eksperimen 46..............................................................................................39 47. Eksperimen 47..............................................................................................39 48. Eksperimen 48..............................................................................................40 49. Eksperimen 49..............................................................................................40 50. Eksperimen 50..............................................................................................40
BAB IV PERANCANGAN KARYA 4.1 Perancangan.................................................................................................41 4.1.1 Tema...............................................................................................41 4.1.2
Judul
Rancangan............................................................................41 4.2
Fungsi
Karya
dan
Pemakai...........................................................................42 4.2.1
Target
konsumen............................................................................42 4.2.2
Tipe
Gaya
Berpakaian....................................................................42 4.3 Estetika.........................................................................................................42 4.4
Rancangan
Produk
Fashion.........................................................................45 4.4.1
Gaun
...........................................................................................45
1
4.4.2
Gaun
2............................................................................................45 4.4.3
Gaun
3............................................................................................46 4.4.4 Gaun 4............................................................................................46 4.4.5
Sepatu
1..........................................................................................47 4.4.6 Sepatu 2........................................................................................ .47 4.4.7 Korsase...........................................................................................47 4.5
Rancangan
Produk
Kain...............................................................................48 4.5.1
Kain
1..............................................................................................48 4.5.2
Kain
2..............................................................................................48 4.5.3
Kain
3..............................................................................................49 4.5.4
Kain
4..............................................................................................49 4.5.5
Kain
5..............................................................................................50 4.5.6
Kain
6..............................................................................................50 4.5.7
Kain
7..............................................................................................51 4.5.8
Kain
8..............................................................................................51 4.5.9
Kain
9..............................................................................................52 4.5.10 10..........................................................................................52
Kain
.4.5.11
Kain
11.........................................................................................53 4.5.12
Kain
12..........................................................................................53 4.5.13
Kain
13
.........................................................................................54 4.5.14
Kain
14..........................................................................................54 4.6
Biaya
Produksi..............................................................................................55 4.7
Perawatan
Produk.........................................................................................55
BAB V PENUTUP 5.1 Kesimpulan..................................................................................................56
5.2 Saran...........................................................................................................56
DAFTAR
PUSTAKA
.........................................................................................57 LAMPIRAN........................................................................................................ 59 DOKUMENTASI................................................................................................. 67
LEMBAR KONSULTASI.....................................................................................78 UCAPAN
TERIMA
................................................................................82
KASIH.
DAFTAR GAMBAR
1.
Macam
Pleats..................................................................................................16 a.Knife
Pleats
......................................................................................................16 b.
Box
Pleats........................................................................................................16 c. Pleats....................................................................................................17 d.Cartridge Pleats................................................................................................17 2. Eksperimen 1...................................................................................................27 3. Eksperimen 2..................................................................................................28 4. Eksperimen 3..................................................................................................28 5. Eksperimen 4..................................................................................................28 6. Eksperimen 5..................................................................................................28 7. Eksperimen 6..................................................................................................29
Rolled
8. Eksperimen 7..................................................................................................29 9. Eksperimen 8..................................................................................................29 10. Eksperimen 9.................................................................................................29 11. Eksperimen 10..............................................................................................30 12. Eksperimen 11..............................................................................................30 13. Eksperimen 12..............................................................................................30 14. Eksperimen 13..............................................................................................31 15. Eksperimen 14..............................................................................................31 16. Eksperimen 15..............................................................................................31 17. Eksperimen 16..............................................................................................31 18. Eksperimen 17..............................................................................................32 19. Eksperimen 18..............................................................................................32
20. Eksperimen 19..............................................................................................32 21. Eksperimen 20..............................................................................................32 22. Eksperimen 21..............................................................................................33 23. Eksperimen 22..............................................................................................33 24. Eksperimen 23..............................................................................................33 25. Eksperimen 24..............................................................................................33 26. Eksperimen 25..............................................................................................34 27. Eksperimen 26..............................................................................................34 28. Eksperimen 27..............................................................................................34 29. Eksperimen 28..............................................................................................34 30. Eksperimen 29..............................................................................................35 31. Eksperimen 30..............................................................................................35
32. Eksperimen 31..............................................................................................35 33. Eksperimen 32..............................................................................................35 34. Eksperimen 33..............................................................................................36 35. Eksperimen 34..............................................................................................36 36. Eksperimen 35..............................................................................................36 37. Eksperimen 36..............................................................................................36 38. Eksperimen 37..............................................................................................37 39. Eksperimen 38..............................................................................................37 40. Eksperimen 39..............................................................................................37 41. Eksperimen 40..............................................................................................37 42. Eksperimen 41..............................................................................................38 43. Eksperimen 42..............................................................................................38
44. Eksperimen 43..............................................................................................38 45. Eksperimen 44..............................................................................................38 46. Eksperimen 45..............................................................................................39 47. Eksperimen 46..............................................................................................39 48. Eksperimen 47..............................................................................................39 49. Eksperimen 48..............................................................................................40 50. Eksperimen 49..............................................................................................40 51. Eksperimen 50..............................................................................................40 52. Image Peri.....................................................................................................41 53. MoodBoard I.................................................................................................43 54. MoodBoard II.................................................................................................43 55. MoodBoard III................................................................................................43
56. MoodBoard IV...............................................................................................44 57. Skema Warna................................................................................................44 58. Gaun 1...........................................................................................................45 59. Gaun 2...........................................................................................................45 60. Gaun 3...........................................................................................................46 61. Gaun 4..........................................................................................................46 62. Sepatu 1.........................................................................................................47 63. Sepatu 2.........................................................................................................47 64. Korsase..........................................................................................................47 65.
Kain
1..........................................................................................................48 66.
Kain
2’.........................................................................................................48 67.
Kain
3..........................................................................................................49 68.
Kain
4..........................................................................................................49 69. 5..........................................................................................................50
Kain
70.
Kain
6..........................................................................................................50 71.
Kain
7..........................................................................................................51 72.
Kain
8..........................................................................................................51 73.
Kain
9..........................................................................................................52 74.
Kain
10........................................................................................................52 75.
Kain
11........................................................................................................53 76.
Kain
12........................................................................................................53 77.
Kain
13
.......................................................................................................54 78. 14........................................................................................................54
Kain
DAFTAR TABEL
1. Kerangka Pemikiran..........................................................................................6
