ABSTRAK
Koleksi busana ready-to-wear berjudul ”The Stupendous Borobudur” terinspirasi dari salah satu bangunan peninggalan sejarah dan budaya terbesar di Indonesia yaitu candi Borobudur. Kata stupendous berasal dari Bahasa inggris yang artinya mengagumkan atau menakjubkan. Bangunan yang terletak di Magelang, Jawa Tengah ini sesungguhnya merupakan Candi Agama Buddha yang dibangun oleh pengikut aliran Buddha Mahayana, pada pemerintahan dinasti Syailendra sekitar tahun 800 Masehi. Bangunan ini memiliki arsitektur yang unik, indah dan detail. Bangunan candi terdiri dari ribuan panel relief dan ratusan patung Buddha. Pada bagian teratas candi terdapat 72 buah stupa yang berisi patung Budha. Beberapa detail dari candi Borobudur diangkat ke dalam motif laser cut sebagai manipulating koleksi busana yaitu stupa, yang menjadi ciri khas utama serta bentuk mandala, yaitu tampak atas candi. Siluet busana berbentuk lonceng yang terinspirasi dari stupa. Warna-warna diambil dari warna batuan candi seperti abu muda, abu tua, hitam, coklat tua dan coklat muda. Proses pembuatan busana diawali dengan pembuatan pola dan prototype. Apabila siluet busana telah sesuai, proses selanjutnya adalah pembuatan motif laser cut pada pola yang asli. Motif terinspirasi dari bentuk stupa dan mandala. Proses selanjutnya adalah proses tracing untuk membuat vektor dan laser cutting. Proses selanjutnya adalah pemotongan kain manual, penjahitan dan finishing. Busana ready-to-wear “The Stupendous Borobudur” memiliki target market wanita berusia berusia 23-35 tahun yang memiliki kesadaran dan kecintaan akan budaya Indonesia. Busana dapat digunakan pada acara-acara formal atau semi formal, dan dapat dipadupadankan dengan busana yang lainnya. Koleksi ini berusaha untuk menarik kembali perhatian masyarakat khususnya Indonesia terhadap keindahan dan kemegahan Candi Borobudur.
Kata Kunci: Borobudur, Candi, Arsitektur, Budaya
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ABSTRACT A ready-to-wear fashion collection entitled “The Stupendous Borobudur" is inspired by one of the biggest historical and cultural heritage buildings in Indonesia, the Borobudur temple. The word ‘stupendous’ is derived from an English word which means awesome or amazing. The building which is located in Magelang, Central Java is actually a Buddhist temple which was built by the followers of Mahayana Buddhism, in the reign of the Sailendra dynasty around the year 800 AD. This building has a unique, beautiful and detailed architecture. This temple consists of relief panels and hundreds of Buddha statues. At the top of the temple there are 72 pieces of stupas which contain the statue of Buddha. Some details of the Borobudur Temple were appointed in laser cut motif as manipulating fabric of a fashion collection, for example the stupa, which is the typical of the temple and the shape of mandala, which is the upper part of the temple. Bell-shaped silhouette dress is inspired from the stupa. The colors are taken from temple rock like light gray, dark gray, black, dark brown and light brown. The process begins with the manufacture of clothing pattern and prototypes. If the dress already has the appropriate silhouette, the next process is a laser cut pattern making on the original pattern. Motifs were inspired by the shape of stupas and mandalas. The process for making vector tracing and laser cutting is the next step. After that, the final steps are cutting the fabric manually, sewing and finishing. This ready-to-wear clothing "The Stupendous Borobudur" has a target market of woman aged 23-35 years old who has an awareness and love toward Indonesian culture. The clothing can be used on formal or semi-formal occasions, and can be combined with other clothing. This collection is trying to attract the attention of the public, especially Indonesians to the beauty and grandeur of the Borobudur temple.
Key Words: Borobudur, Temple, architectural, culture
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DAFTAR ISI
ABSTRAK .................................................................................................................... i ABSTRACT ..................................................................................................................ii KATA PENGANTAR ............................................................................................... iii DAFTAR ISI ............................................................................................................... v DAFTAR GAMBAR ............................................................................................... viii DAFTAR LAMPIRAN ............................................................................................... x
BAB 1 PENDAHULUAN ........................................................................................... 1 1.1 Latar Belakang ...................................................................................................... 1 1.2 Identifikasi Masalah.............................................................................................. 3 1.3 Batasan Masalah ................................................................................................... 3 1.4 Tujuan Perancangan.............................................................................................. 4 1.5 Metode Perancangan ............................................................................................. 5 1.6 Sistematika Penulisan ........................................................................................... 5 BAB 2 Kerangka Teori ................................................................................................ 7 2.1 Teori Fashion ......................................................................................................... 7 2.1 Teori Busana .......................................................................................................... 8 2.2.1 Fungsi Busana ............................................................................................. 9 2.2.2 Jenis Busana................................................................................................. 9 2.2.3 Prinsip Desain Busana ............................................................................... 10 2.3 Teori Pola dan Jahit ............................................................................................. 11 2.3.1 Metode Pembuatan Pola ............................................................................ 11 2.3.2 Ragam Tusuk/ Stitch .................................................................................. 13 v
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2.3.3 Ragam Kampuh ......................................................................................... 14 2.4 Teori Reka Bahan Tekstil .................................................................................... 15 2.5 Teori Warna ......................................................................................................... 16 2.5.1 Teori Brewster ........................................................................................... 16 2.5.2 Teori Warna Newton ................................................................................. 17 2.5.3 Psikologi Warna (Arti Warna) ................................................................... 17 BAB 3 DESKRIPSI OBJEK STUDI ......................................................................... 19 3.1 Candi Borobudur Sebagai Sumber Inspirasi Busana .......................................... 19 3.2 Sagacity-Courteous Sebagai Trend Fashion ....................................................... 22 3.3 Target Market (STP) ........................................................................................... 23 3.3.1 Segmenting ................................................................................................ 23 3.3.2 Targetting ................................................................................................... 24 3.3.2 Positioning ................................................................................................. 24 BAB 4 KONSEP PERANCANGAN ........................................................................ 25 4.1 Perancangan Umum ............................................................................................. 25 4.1.1 Image Board .............................................................................................. 25 4.1.2 Konsep ....................................................................................................... 25 4.1.3 Koleksi Desain ........................................................................................... 26 4.2 Perancangan Khusus ............................................................................................ 27 4.2.1 Desain I ...................................................................................................... 27 4.2.2 Desain II..................................................................................................... 28 4.2.3 Desain III ................................................................................................... 29 4.2.4 Desain IV ................................................................................................... 30 4.3 Perancangan Detail .............................................................................................. 30 4.3.1 Laser Cut .................................................................................................... 30 4.3.2 Material ...................................................................................................... 34 vi Universitas Kristen Maranatha
BAB 5 PENUTUP ..................................................................................................... 36 5.1 Kesimpulan ......................................................................................................... 36 5.2 Saran ................................................................................................................... 36 DAFTAR PUSTAKA ................................................................................................ 38 DATA PENULIS ....................................................................................................... 39 LAMPIRAN .............................................................................................................. 40
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DAFTAR GAMBAR
Gambar 2.1 Pola Dasar Depan................................................................................... 12 Gambar 2.2 Pola Dasar Belakang .............................................................................. 13 Gambar 2.3 Aplikasi teknik laser cut pada busana ................................................... 16 Gambar 2.4 Color Wheel ........................................................................................... 16 Gambar 2.5 Color Scale ............................................................................................. 18 Gambar 3.1 Patung Buddha dalam stupa ................................................................... 19 Gambar 3.2 Bangunan Candi Borobudur .................................................................. 20 Gambar 3.3 Tiga susun teras melingkar .................................................................... 20 Gambar 3.4 Mandala Borobudur ............................................................................... 22 Gambar 3.5 detail Susunan Candi Borobudur ........................................................... 22 Gambar 3.6 Color Charts Sagacity ........................................................................... 23 Gambar 3.7 Gaya busana Courteous ......................................................................... 23 Gambar 4.1 Image board ........................................................................................... 25 Gambar 4.2 Koleksi Desain “The Stupendous Borobudur” ...................................... 26 Gambar 4.3 Ilustrasi Busana I ................................................................................... 27 Gambar 4.4 Ilustrasi Busana II .................................................................................. 28 Gambar 4.5 Illustrasi Busana III ................................................................................ 29 Gambar 4.6 Illustrasi Busana IV ............................................................................... 30 Gambar 4.7 Trasformasi motif busana I .................................................................... 31 Gambar 4.8 Transformasi motif dari Mandala dan susunan Stupa ........................... 32 Gambar 4.9 Transformasi Motif dari Stupa ............................................................... 32 Gambar 4.10 Proses penggambaran Motif pada pola ................................................ 33 Gambar 4.11 Proses Tracing Motif ........................................................................... 33 viii
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Gambar 4.12 Proses positioning untuk efisiensi material. ........................................ 34 Gambar 4.13 Proses Laser cut pada kain Thai Silk ................................................... 34 Gambar 4.14 Kain Thai Silk beragam warna ............................................................ 35 Gambar 4.15 Kain Taffeta hitam ............................................................................... 35 Gambar 4.16 Kain Georgette ..................................................................................... 35 Gambar 4.17 Kain Visline ......................................................................................... 35 Gambar ...................................................................................................................... 32
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DAFTAR LAMPIRAN
LAMPIRAN A Pola Kecil ......................................................................................... 40 LAMPIRAN B Ukuran Model .................................................................................. 51 LAMPIRAN C Material ............................................................................................ 53 LAMPIRAN D Foto Busana ..................................................................................... 54 LAMPIRAN E Technical Drawing ........................................................................... 58 LAMPIRAN F Fashion Ilustrasi ................................................................................ 65 LAMPIRAN G Manipulating Fabrik......................................................................... 69 LAMPIRAN H Foto Proses ....................................................................................... 70 LAMPIRAN I Perincian Harga ................................................................................. 75 LAMPIRAN J Mind Map .......................................................................................... 77
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